E90Post
 


Extreme Powerhouse
 
BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > Coolant Hose Replacement N52



Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
      01-18-2014, 12:02 PM   #1
Efthreeoh
General
United_States
16946
Rep
18,578
Posts

Drives: The E90 + Z4 Coupe & Z3 R'ster
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Virginia

iTrader: (0)

Coolant Hose Replacement N52

This is a DIY for removal and replacement of the entire nine (9) hose set for the N52 engine in a 2006 325i with a manual transmission; an automatic will use some different hoses (see post #21 from Smassy321). I would expect that this is applicable to both the 325i and 330i of 2006 model year and probably the 328i from 2007 on. The hose set I replaced was for a car without auxiliary heating; which I don’t think was offered as standard equipment nor as an option for USA market cars. There are a few more hoses in the set for cars with auxiliary heating, but the basic procedure is the same.

That said, if you do not plan on keeping your car for a long time and high mileage, you probably do not need to replace the hoses as preventative maintenance. I replaced my hoses at 7 ½ years and 236,000 miles and my hoses were a bit dry on the outside without any cracks or ozone damage and still pliable, and inside they all still looked very good.

This is not a DIY for a novice do-it-yourselfer. You need a lot of special tools and ideally have access to a two-post car lift. In my opinion it would be very difficult to do this DIY without the aid of a lift (you have to raise the car too many times); however, if you have time and are a masochist, you can probably do it without a lift. A note on tools: You need a good set of automotive repair tools with compete sets of ¼-drive, 3/8-drive and ½ drive sockets and extensions and flex-joints, torx sockets, E-Torx sockets, and metric wrenches. I’ve tried to list the special tools not common to what a normal DIY’er may have in his tool box.

Thanks to scotty_miller for some o-ring info.
Details in file below.
Attached Images
File Type: pdf Coolant Hosereplacement.pdf (1.26 MB, 8010 views)

Last edited by Efthreeoh; 05-10-2023 at 05:42 AM..
Appreciate 3
      01-18-2014, 02:57 PM   #2
StealYourFace
Lieutenant Colonel
United_States
260
Rep
1,794
Posts

Drives: F30 328i M 6mt, E36 M3
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Shakedown Street, Buffalo NY

iTrader: (1)

Some job there, I would never have imagined so many hoses, what a pain.

I'm having the water pump done this week at 138,500 miles (I know, barely broken in ) and had my mechanic order the upper and lower hose to replace because I figured after all this time they would need to be done.

Did the radiator look ok?

I never would have figured all those hoses and radiator would last so long on a bmw, obviously a tremendous upgrade over previous generations.
__________________
Appreciate 1
      01-18-2014, 03:08 PM   #3
Efthreeoh
General
United_States
16946
Rep
18,578
Posts

Drives: The E90 + Z4 Coupe & Z3 R'ster
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Virginia

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by StealYourFace View Post
Some job there, I would never have imagined so many hoses, what a pain.

I'm having the water pump done this week at 138,500 miles (I know, barely broken in ) and had my mechanic order the upper and lower hose to replace because I figured after all this time they would need to be done.

Did the radiator look ok?

I never would have figured all those hoses and radiator would last so long on a bmw, obviously a tremendous upgrade over previous generations.
I left a pic at the end of the radiator. It's not leaking and seems still in good shape. I'm keeping an eye on it, but I think its go for awhile.
Appreciate 1
      01-18-2014, 10:39 PM   #4
StealYourFace
Lieutenant Colonel
United_States
260
Rep
1,794
Posts

Drives: F30 328i M 6mt, E36 M3
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Shakedown Street, Buffalo NY

iTrader: (1)

Nice, I saw the shroud of Berlin haha. Turner has a used n52 rad for cheap Im glad i didnt buy it.
Thanks again for the post
Appreciate 0
      01-19-2014, 11:33 AM   #5
Efthreeoh
General
United_States
16946
Rep
18,578
Posts

Drives: The E90 + Z4 Coupe & Z3 R'ster
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Virginia

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by StealYourFace View Post
Nice, I saw the shroud of Berlin haha. Turner has a used n52 rad for cheap Im glad i didnt buy it.
Thanks again for the post
You had left me a visitor message, so I could respond back directly (guess I should have left it on your page). Anyway, I'm bit concerned that I flexed the plastic side-tank a bit on the left side around the upper hose bib. The BMW hose connector design is really over engineered and unnecessary IMO.
Appreciate 1
      01-20-2014, 10:12 AM   #6
StealYourFace
Lieutenant Colonel
United_States
260
Rep
1,794
Posts

Drives: F30 328i M 6mt, E36 M3
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Shakedown Street, Buffalo NY

iTrader: (1)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
You had left me a visitor message, so I could respond back directly (guess I should have left it on your page). Anyway, I'm bit concerned that I flexed the plastic side-tank a bit on the left side around the upper hose bib. The BMW hose connector design is really over engineered and unnecessary IMO.
Over engineered bmw? Come on....

Has your car seen much road salt?

I bought my car from Texas used when it was 3 yr old, and it has had 5 winters since then. We have a great car was company here that has a monthly pass that allows you to wash as much as you want, and has an under spray that I use quite often, but the road salt in Buffalo has to have an effect on these parts regardless.
__________________
Appreciate 1
      01-20-2014, 08:28 PM   #7
Efthreeoh
General
United_States
16946
Rep
18,578
Posts

Drives: The E90 + Z4 Coupe & Z3 R'ster
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Virginia

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by StealYourFace View Post
Over engineered bmw? Come on....

Has your car seen much road salt?

I bought my car from Texas used when it was 3 yr old, and it has had 5 winters since then. We have a great car was company here that has a monthly pass that allows you to wash as much as you want, and has an under spray that I use quite often, but the road salt in Buffalo has to have an effect on these parts regardless.
Not much road salt. But I've had my F-150 in New England in the winter a few time and it's about eaten up by now.
Appreciate 0
      12-11-2016, 06:18 AM   #8
Efthreeoh
General
United_States
16946
Rep
18,578
Posts

Drives: The E90 + Z4 Coupe & Z3 R'ster
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Virginia

iTrader: (0)

I'm bumping this thread to update on the radiator longevity discussion. If you read the thread, I replaced all the hoses at 236,000 miles, but did not replace the radiator. Now, 80,000 miles later at 315,000 miles the radiator is still leak free. That's two more hot summer's of driving in stop and go traffic.

Just some data for the community.
__________________
A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
Appreciate 2
      12-11-2016, 08:57 PM   #9
lab_rat
Captain
lab_rat's Avatar
United_States
395
Rep
662
Posts

Drives: 2013 135is (#5 of 586)
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: SATX + Heiligenhaus, DE

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the update. I have been contemplating replacing all the hoses prior to the spring/summer months. Seems like a good (but tedious) winter project to do in ye ole garage.
Appreciate 0
      08-18-2018, 01:18 PM   #10
neilq
New Member
13
Rep
5
Posts

Drives: '11 328 '09 128 '08 328 '00 Z3
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Iowa

iTrader: (0)

2008 328i, manual hoses, pump, and thermostat replacement

I just replaced all the hoses, water pump, and thermostat on my 2008 328i, 6 speed manual. The car has 130,000 trouble free miles. I did this as a preventative measure. Efthreeoh's excellent write up along with the two BavAuto water pump and thermostat replacement YouTube videos pretty much tell you everything you need to know. All of these are packed with extremely helpful tips. I did not find this to be a difficult job. It's a lot of work and not a good first job for a newbie but all the tasks are straightforward. I do have a lift and that did make doing the job much easier and more comfortable.

Here is information that others might find helpful.
- The temp sensor on my car is mounted to the OFH and is easily accessible. So there is no synergy to replacing it at hose changing time.
- As did Efthreeoh, I found disconnecting the large BMW clamp connectors from the radiator to be the hardest task. Take his precautionary advice and place all baseball bats and golf clubs in protective custody until these hoses have been removed. I did not remove the radiator. As others have advised, I kept pulling (and pulling) with a slight circular motion. None of these clamps released suddenly. If you watched carefully you could see your (very slow) progress. After the connector housing had backed off about a mm or so then I could find a way to carefully pry with a small screw driver and things progressed quickly with less effort from there. Curiously each of the male portions of these connectors were designed quite differently so the prying method varied with each one.
- When going after the top water pump mounting bolt DON'T accidentally remove its much more visible, immediately next door, air conditioner mounting bolt neighbor. This too is a stretch bolt which your dealer won't likely have in stock. The water pump bolt head is located in the harder to see, recessed pocket right next door.
- I was able to remove (and replace) the lower heater core hose (228-01) totally from the top. But I could not have done so without knowing the spring clip is oriented and removed from the bottom side of the hose. Just one of the many useful gems of information in Efthreeoh's write up.
- On my car the OFH to thermostat hose (427-07) is connected to the OFH with only two bolts.
- Use silicone plumber's grease to lubricate the o-rings inside the BMW clamp connectors before assembling. The big box hardware stores all carry this. Be sure to buy the silicone grease, not the traditional plumbers' grease. The BavAuto video mentions this tip but at a point where you probably have already assembled a number of the connectors.
- Instead of replacing the entire Engine Block to Water Pump metal-tube/rubber stock part (283-03) I just replaced the rubber portion using the Rein CHE0497 part. The original hose is clipped to the metal tube with a spring clamp. The clamp does not have the typical ears but I had no problem removing it using a pair of channel lock pliers. There is plenty of room to use a Dremel to cut off the clamp should someone prefer that removal method. The Rein hose comes with a traditional spring clamp with ears that stick up away from the hose. Be sure to orient the ears as far (rotationally) toward the back of the car as possible. At first I didn't pay attention to its orientation but I found the ears came uncomfortably close to rubbing against one of the large hoses connected to the water pump and thermostat assembly below. So I took things apart again and reoriented the clamp to provide plenty of clearance.
- When reassembling, pay attention to the BavAuto video hose clamp clocking instructions. Your life will be easier for doing so.

Post work thoughts: Had I not mistakenly removed the wrong bolt (which I had to wait for my dealer to order) I could have completed this in one long day. All of my original hoses and plastic tubes looked perfectly fine. Modern hoses like these are made from EPDM rubber, making for a hose that is far superior and longer lasting than those of yesteryear.

Here are the part numbers for the pump, thermostat, and hoses I used. All were purchased through FCP Euro and I chose the OEM equivalent, where available, instead of genuine BMW.

11517586925 - Water Pump
11537549476 - Thermostat
Rein CHE0497 - 283-03 - Engine Block to Water Pump Hose in lieu of 283-03 complete replacement
11537521049 - 472-01 - Thermostat to Pump Hose
11537545890 - 472-07 - OFH to Thermostat Hose
17127531579 - 472-17 - Upper Radiator Hose
17127618510 - 472-20 - Expansion Tank Vent Hose
17127564478 - 472-18 - Lower Radiator Hose
64219178427 - 228-01 - Heater Core Lower Hose
64216951946 - 228-02 - Heater Core Upper Hose
17127548223 - 472-23 - Expansion Tank Heater Core Thermostat Hose-Pipe
Appreciate 2
      01-13-2019, 09:19 AM   #11
smass
Lieutenant Colonel
393
Rep
1,578
Posts

Drives: 06 325i - 10 335i
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Scottsdale, AZ

iTrader: (1)

Garage List
2010 E90 335i  [0.00]
2016 F15 35i  [0.00]
2003 E53 3.0  [0.00]
2006 E90 325i  [0.00]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
I'm bumping this thread to update on the radiator longevity discussion. If you read the thread, I replaced all the hoses at 236,000 miles, but did not replace the radiator. Now, 80,000 miles later at 315,000 miles the radiator is still leak free. That's two more hot summer's of driving in stop and go traffic.

Just some data for the community.
I assume your radiator is still going strong. How about the coolant tank? I removed the 2 screws holding mine down and see an 05 stamped on the bottom so it is original and now 14 years old.

Great write up. Thanks
Appreciate 0
      01-13-2019, 09:33 AM   #12
Efthreeoh
General
United_States
16946
Rep
18,578
Posts

Drives: The E90 + Z4 Coupe & Z3 R'ster
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Virginia

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by smassey321 View Post
I assume your radiator is still going strong. How about the coolant tank? I removed the 2 screws holding mine down and see an 05 stamped on the bottom so it is original and now 14 years old.

Great write up. Thanks
I replaced the radiator at 350,000 only because I hit a deer in April 2018. The accident tweaked the radiator because the core support (frame) was broken and slightly moved. I decided that it was best to replace the radiator at that point since it was coming out anyway. The old radiator was leak free even after the accident, but since I was paying for the labor to remove the radiator and cooling system breakdown, a new OEM radiator was about $170. I'd bet now 13,000 miles later the original radiator even after the accident would have been still leak free.

The reservoir tank is original.
__________________
A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
Appreciate 0
      03-30-2019, 08:59 PM   #13
fleet
Private
fleet's Avatar
54
Rep
74
Posts

Drives: 328xi
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Upstate NY

iTrader: (0)

Happy to find this thread as my lower heater core hose has sprung a leak (I think, at least. I haven't pulled the airbox to verify)
Last round of maintenance I noticed it had developed a sizable bulge in the side so I promptly sleeved it with another hose, lol. Figured if I could get a few miles out of it I would.
Time to drain the coolant.
Thanks for posting the DIY
__________________
I like broken things.
Appreciate 1
Efthreeoh16946.00
      03-31-2019, 06:17 AM   #14
smass
Lieutenant Colonel
393
Rep
1,578
Posts

Drives: 06 325i - 10 335i
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Scottsdale, AZ

iTrader: (1)

Garage List
2010 E90 335i  [0.00]
2016 F15 35i  [0.00]
2003 E53 3.0  [0.00]
2006 E90 325i  [0.00]
Quote:
Originally Posted by fleet View Post
Happy to find this thread as my lower heater core hose has sprung a leak (I think, at least. I haven't pulled the airbox to verify)
Last round of maintenance I noticed it had developed a sizable bulge in the side so I promptly sleeved it with another hose, lol. Figured if I could get a few miles out of it I would.
Time to drain the coolant.
Thanks for posting the DIY
I just noticed the same thing on my heater hose. The upper radiator also looks soft on the bottom side. Both got oil on them when the belt slung it around from the OFHG leak 4 years ago. Heater hose looks pretty easy to change once airbox is removed. I had it out last week to replace my starter.
Appreciate 0
      03-31-2019, 06:43 AM   #15
fleet
Private
fleet's Avatar
54
Rep
74
Posts

Drives: 328xi
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Upstate NY

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by smassey321 View Post
I just noticed the same thing on my heater hose. The upper radiator also looks soft on the bottom side. Both got oil on them when the belt slung it around from the OFHG leak 4 years ago. Heater hose looks pretty easy to change once airbox is removed. I had it out last week to replace my starter.

When I bought the car, the front engine bay and block was ENCASED in a 1/4" layer of oil and sludge. No doubt it hastened or caused the bulge. The brake-kleen I used to clean some of it up probably didn't help either.
__________________
I like broken things.
Appreciate 0
      04-12-2019, 03:09 PM   #16
fleet
Private
fleet's Avatar
54
Rep
74
Posts

Drives: 328xi
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Upstate NY

iTrader: (0)

Just swwapped out the lower heater core hose. Did it on jackstands. Access from the bottom to release the clip was a no go, because iX hardware was in the way. Looking from below gave me a pretty good idea of what I was up against so i used an articulating mirror and tiny screwdriver and popped it from the top.

Having done a cowl delete (using Berger? cabin filters) meant I had more room to get my hands in there. I had to pull the airbox and tubing, and temporarily relocate the brake reservoir. I also pulled the brake reservoir bracket to get a little more wiggle room.

Once I popped the clip, the hose (as OP mentioned) came off pretty easily. I'm hoping that it was indeed the lower hose that was leaking. Guess I'll find out soon.

Thanks again for taking the time to put together the DIY, OP. It made the swap easier for me.
__________________
I like broken things.
Appreciate 1
Efthreeoh16946.00
      05-14-2019, 06:42 PM   #17
fleet
Private
fleet's Avatar
54
Rep
74
Posts

Drives: 328xi
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Upstate NY

iTrader: (0)

A month later and I'm still losing coolant in the same general area (puddles on top of bellypan, under airbox), so I just replaced the Radiator Return Hose, pretty straight forward. Removing and temporarily relocating the brake fluid reservoir and zip tying some other hoses aside made access room to make the job way easier. Put about 50 miles on it today and so far no more leaking. Fingers crossed. I'm sure I'll be back later this year to swap out some more of the original hoses.
__________________
I like broken things.
Appreciate 1
      05-18-2019, 05:32 PM   #18
makke
Private
23
Rep
75
Posts

Drives: 2006 325i, 182K and counting
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: MD

iTrader: (0)

I would be grateful for a little help. What is the P/N of the hose in Dwg 472 that goes from 17 to the firewall? I can't seem to find it in any of the diagrams on Real OEM... I am assuming it has a plastic connector (female) that mates to the male end on 17? Is there some sort of an O-ring in there? Replacing this hose looks like it would be a real pain since it runs through the whole engine bay...

My '06 325i is leaking from the connection between 17 and this long hose. It's also leaking from a small crack on top of the radiator outlet that connects to 17. That part is plastic and has cracked along the mold seam. So, <sigh....> need to replace the radiator, 17, and, potentially, the long hose to the firewall. Probably should do the water pump while I am at it. The current one went in at 88K back in 2012...

Thank you!
Appreciate 0
      05-18-2019, 05:44 PM   #19
makke
Private
23
Rep
75
Posts

Drives: 2006 325i, 182K and counting
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: MD

iTrader: (0)

Duh... Never mind. Efthreeoh answers my question in his DIY. 228-01 (64219178427) Heater Supply Hose is the one I was looking for. Sure was not obvious from the diagrams..., at least to me.

Thank you, Efthreeoh!
Appreciate 0
      05-24-2019, 10:42 AM   #20
austin.tillison
Private
11
Rep
93
Posts

Drives: 2006 BMW 325i
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Alabama

iTrader: (0)

Garage List
2006 BMW 325i  [0.00]
great write up, thanks Efthreeoh! saving my ass again haha
Appreciate 0
      06-01-2019, 01:14 PM   #21
smass
Lieutenant Colonel
393
Rep
1,578
Posts

Drives: 06 325i - 10 335i
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Scottsdale, AZ

iTrader: (1)

Garage List
2010 E90 335i  [0.00]
2016 F15 35i  [0.00]
2003 E53 3.0  [0.00]
2006 E90 325i  [0.00]
Thanks to Efthreeoh for the DIY. I just did all the hoses, radiator and tank on my 06 325i. I am only at 120k miles but my daughter is taking the car to college in AZ so I wanted everything to be new. Water pump and thermostat were changed a few years ago.

The only hoses that were in bad shape were the two that go to the oil filter housing area. Both had good hose but bad plastic on the inside. They fell apart when I tried to pull them out. So if you want to stay on a budget, just do those 2 (I spent close to $600 for everything). Next worse were my heater hoses that were soft under the air box area. The rest were fine as was the radiator and tank. All were 14 years old.

Mine car is an automatic so the parts list is slightly different. When compared to the PDF parts list, there are 2 different hoses and 2 additional hoses.

2 different hoses
17127548223 is replaced with 17127548224. It has an extra hose on the assembly going to the trans oil cooler.
11537535829 is replaced with 11537516414. It has an extra fitting for 17127540020 below.

2 additional hoses.
17117524710 - trans oil cooler - goes between the trans oil cooler and the radiator.
17127540020 - low-temperature cooling module - goes between 11537516414 and the radiator.

And finally, this is the o-ring I used for the temp sensor. BMW does not sell these. https://www.ecstuning.com/b-uro-part...21433077s~uro/
Appreciate 1
Efthreeoh16946.00
      06-01-2019, 08:10 PM   #22
Efthreeoh
General
United_States
16946
Rep
18,578
Posts

Drives: The E90 + Z4 Coupe & Z3 R'ster
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Virginia

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by smassey321 View Post
Thanks to Efthreeoh for the DIY. I just did all the hoses, radiator and tank on my 06 325i. I am only at 120k miles but my daughter is taking the car to college in AZ so I wanted everything to be new. Water pump and thermostat were changed a few years ago.

The only hoses that were in bad shape were the two that go to the oil filter housing area. Both had good hose but bad plastic on the inside. They fell apart when I tried to pull them out. So if you want to stay on a budget, just do those 2 (I spent close to $600 for everything). Next worse were my heater hoses that were soft under the air box area. The rest were fine as was the radiator and tank. All were 14 years old.

Mine car is an automatic so the parts list is slightly different. When compared to the PDF parts list, there are 2 different hoses and 2 additional hoses.

2 different hoses
17127548223 is replaced with 17127548224. It has an extra hose on the assembly going to the trans oil cooler.
11537535829 is replaced with 11537516414. It has an extra fitting for 17127540020 below.

2 additional hoses.
17117524710 - trans oil cooler - goes between the trans oil cooler and the radiator.
17127540020 - low-temperature cooling module - goes between 11537516414 and the radiator.

And finally, this is the o-ring I used for the temp sensor. BMW does not sell these. https://www.ecstuning.com/b-uro-part...21433077s~uro/
Until you just wrote that, I never thought to include it was for a manual trans car, which is slightly different. Thanks. Good luck to the kid in the fall, I hope she does well
__________________
A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
Appreciate 0
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:00 AM.




e90post
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
1Addicts.com, BIMMERPOST.com, E90Post.com, F30Post.com, M3Post.com, ZPost.com, 5Post.com, 6Post.com, 7Post.com, XBimmers.com logo and trademark are properties of BIMMERPOST