[Rdany]

So car starts fine but as soon as I put it on drive and start rolling I get a small shoulder and then almost instantly a transmission fault comes up. If I continue driving idrive goes black dashboard goes christmas tree. No electricals no speedo or signals nothing then car overheats and engine just switches off I can't accelerate at all anymore.
I suppose no water pump or anything electric working.
I switch it off and starts without a problem again. Then the stories just repeats itself

Faults
2A99 Crankshaft exhaust camshaft reference
2D5A monitoring engine torque limiting
2DEB power management vehicle electrical system
2DED power management closed circuit current violation
2E82 electric coolant pump cutoff
2E98 BDS message alternator missing
3100 boost pressure control deactivation
CD95 message (operation, cruise control /ACC 0x194) faulty , receiver DME, transmitter DSC / SZL/ LWS/ ACC

Any help greatly appreciated

[Socket]

Originally Posted by Rdany

So car starts fine but as soon as I put it on drive and start rolling I get a small shoulder and then almost instantly a transmission fault comes up. If I continue driving idrive goes black dashboard goes christmas tree. No electricals no speedo or signals nothing then car overheats and engine just switches off I can't accelerate at all anymore.
I suppose no water pump or anything electric working.
I switch it off and starts without a problem again. Then the stories just repeats itself

Faults
2A99 Crankshaft exhaust camshaft reference
2D5A monitoring engine torque limiting
2DEB power management vehicle electrical system
2DED power management closed circuit current violation
2E82 electric coolant pump cutoff
2E98 BDS message alternator missing
3100 boost pressure control deactivation
CD95 message (operation, cruise control /ACC 0x194) faulty , receiver DME, transmitter DSC / SZL/ LWS/ ACC

Any help greatly appreciated

Obvious question but how old is your battery??

[Rdany]

The car is from 2007 bought it about 2 years ago.
Not sure how old the battery is.
I was thinking battery alternator or crankshaft position sensor
Will get it home tomorrow and test few things

[Socket]

Originally Posted by Rdany

The car is from 2007 bought it about 2 years ago.
Not sure how old the battery is.
I was thinking battery alternator or crankshaft position sensor
Will get it home tomorrow and test few things

good luck

[Rdany]

Thanks Socket need all the luck in the world man.

[The Blimp]

The battery is certainly the best place to start, but I would also get into the DME enclosure to see if there isnt anything physically affecting the DME, like water etc, or check to see if there is a piggy-back left over from a previous owner.

If there is a piggyback, definitely remove it as I had trouble with an old piggyback that caused all sorts of problems (especially at 120kmh on the highway!).

[Rdany]

Thanks, Blimp
I will have a look at that too.
I got it home today and the RACV mechanic thinks is the alternator.
Which would make sense with all the symptoms

Now the question is to get a brand new one or a second hand for about 300 to 400 less than the new one.

Or anyone can recommend any places that sell alternators at a reasonable price

[vtl]

Did the mechanic check the voltage output of the alternator? You can just replace the regulator on the back of the alternator its not a hard diy.

[Rdany]

I took the car apart to get the alternator out. while doing this I realised the battery is not charging. Maybe a bad battery? Could the mechanic be this wrong and is a faulty battery not the alternator?
I'm really pissed off right now

How do you check if the alternator is good?

[Ken Oath]

An alternator needs to be load tested, voltage and amperage output tested and checked for any parasitic drain.