[rawdog573]

well if i knew how to insert a image in this post i would show you a screenshot of labor times. but anyways thermostat only im looking at 2.2 hours. water pump 3 hours.

[hassmaschine]

Labor for the thermostat should be essentially zero, because it's mounted to the pump, and you have to remove it to replace the pump. They're double charging you.

[raptorman5174]

Originally Posted by SSW

$1300 ($US) for parts/labor/tax is what I had to pay to have my water pump and thermostat replaced. It was one of the lower quotes that I got for the work and I didn't/don't feel ripped off.

The cost just comes w/owning a BMW. Same thing applies to Porches and MBs. If you can't afford it, DIY or buy a Toyota. I own 2 Toyotas and don't pay for anything on them, except Jiffy Lube prices for oil changes, which enables me to keep repairing my f*cking 335i with which I definitely have a love/hate relationship. Love it when I drive it; hate it when I have to fix it which happens more often than not.

LOL!!!

[riczon.335i]

Yeah when mine died at 54k it had the same crack in the same location that everyone talks about, let me know how it goes and the cost I might do the same. When I finally installed my FMIC I looked underneath there and was like it's not really a bad job to do just going to take my time, i'm also going to heat wrap some stuff while i'm under there and maybe the pump might last a little longer. Since my car has been out of aftermarket warranty I became a DIY'er and have saved over thousands since then and plus you feel way better and love the car even more! I already have the parts from FCPeuro just waiting for vacation to start lol.

Originally Posted by OTO335i

My pump just took a shit with only 25,000 km's on it and I pulled it out yesterday. The housing cracked in the typical spot so I'm thinking of removing it and taking the housing to a machine shop to see how much it would cost to make one out of aluminum or metal... I'll have to see

[riczon.335i]

FACTS!! LOL!! I also own a toyota and do nothing but an oil change, spark plugs. I had to pick a reliable vehicle so I can keep up with maintenance for my 335i

Originally Posted by raptorman5174

[autoart]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

Labor for the thermostat should be essentially zero, because it's mounted to the pump, and you have to remove it to replace the pump. They're double charging you.

Your not the 1st one to say this, but its just not true. I just did mine last weekend and the water pump comes out 1st then you have to remove the t stat. If you watch the bav video it shows it.

[Andy_9223]

So I'm looking at this 2007 328i coupe with 74,xxx miles, to buy as my first car. Any tips?advise?

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by autoart

Your not the 1st one to say this, but its just not true. I just did mine last weekend and the water pump comes out 1st then you have to remove the t stat. If you watch the bav video it shows it.

Maybe you have the components mixed up, but the thermostat (Item 2 in the schematic) comes out first when removing and replacing the water pump (Item 1 in the schematic). The thermostat is bolted to the water pump. The water pump is bolted to the engine block. There is no additional shop labor to remove and replace the thermostat because the thermostat has to be removed from the water pump, and it comes out first; the BMW TIS confirms this as well.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by Andy_9223

So I'm looking at this 2007 328i coupe with 74,xxx miles, to buy as my first car. Any tips?advise?

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1517476

[autoart]

Like I said the water pump comes out 1st and goes in last. Yes I know the difference between the two. I did it myself like I said. Look at the video. I followed this:

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by autoart

Like I said the water pump comes out 1st and goes in last. Yes I know the difference between the two. I did it myself like I said. Look at the video.

LOL, the technician removes the T-stat from the pump first, he just doesn't pull it out of the car. The t-stat has to be disconnected from the pump to access the upper pump mounting bolt. It's easier to remove/replace the coolant hoses on the t-stat when it is fixed to the water pump. If one were paying a shop to just replace the T-stat, following the Bav Auto video would add shit-load more cost to the repair.

[CTinline-six]

Originally Posted by nsjames

$354 and a weekend in the garage is what this amounts too.

and that's FCP lifetime warranty prices.


if you're buying ten year old BMW and don't DIY, you either gonna learn or you're gonna go broke.

you pick.

The funny thing is that although BMWs have the reputation of being expensive to fix, the above really applies to any modern car. One of my coworkers has a Ford Focus which needed new brakes (just pads and rotors). She called a number of different shops and couldn't get a quote that was below $500.

If there is anything on a modern car that involves replacing/programming a module you can forget about DIYing it. That is one of the benefits of BMW, the coding community and ability to get software. My dad's 2013 Grand Cherokee needed a module replaced for the AWD system, and the only place that could code it was the dealership. When the module failed it defaulted to 2WD mode, disabled traction control and the ABS. The module was $600, but the coding labor was about the same.

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by CTinline-six

The funny thing is that although BMWs have the reputation of being expensive to fix, the above really applies to any modern car. One of my coworkers has a Ford Focus which needed new brakes (just pads and rotors). She called a number of different shops and couldn't get a quote that was below $500.

If there is anything on a modern car that involves replacing/programming a module you can forget about DIYing it. That is one of the benefits of BMW, the coding community and ability to get software. My dad's 2013 Grand Cherokee needed a module replaced for the AWD system, and the only place that could code it was the dealership. When the module failed it defaulted to 2WD mode, disabled traction control and the ABS. The module was $600, but the coding labor was about the same.

Totally agree. I’ve remotely diagnosed and coded family member’s BMWs. Their GMC truck? I’m lost - take it to the dealer.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by CTinline-six

The funny thing is that although BMWs have the reputation of being expensive to fix, the above really applies to any modern car. One of my coworkers has a Ford Focus which needed new brakes (just pads and rotors). She called a number of different shops and couldn't get a quote that was below $500.

If there is anything on a modern car that involves replacing/programming a module you can forget about DIYing it. That is one of the benefits of BMW, the coding community and ability to get software. My dad's 2013 Grand Cherokee needed a module replaced for the AWD system, and the only place that could code it was the dealership. When the module failed it defaulted to 2WD mode, disabled traction control and the ABS. The module was $600, but the coding labor was about the same.

Same happened on my Hummer. I got an SEL light. Codes came back as high fuel pressure. I figured the sensor went bad, so I swapped it out. No luck. I bought a fuel pressure gauge and sure enough it was about 80 PSI too high. I use the DIY version of AllData for the Hummer. I followed the test procedures. It pointed to a bad fuel pump (which didn't make sense to me). So I replaced the fuel pump. The pressure regulator is built into the top of it. Pulled the tank, changed the pump and STILL the same code.

So I headed to the local Chevy dealer. It was a bad fuel pump module. The dealer had to call the GM tech center to diagnose it. The Tech said they would have followed the exact same procedure I did. It was like your dad's Jeep, I could have installed the new module but I would not have been able to program it. The test procedure sucks IMO. Well, at least I have a spare fuel pump...

[KiX1911]

Originally Posted by macheff03

Fair enough, but in my area prices are inflated, in everything, you can’t even find any e90 under 5k.

I understand that different models need different work and attention but it all comes down to the fact that’s its an imported car, a German car so it’s going cost you. I think that’s a well known fact to any German car owner.

Basically, just diy if you can

I totally agree with you...

[DiFFv1]

Break My Wallet.

[CTinline-six]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Same happened on my Hummer. I got an SEL light. Codes came back as high fuel pressure. I figured the sensor went bad, so I swapped it out. No luck. I bought a fuel pressure gauge and sure enough it was about 80 PSI too high. I use the DIY version of AllData for the Hummer. I followed the test procedures. It pointed to a bad fuel pump (which didn't make sense to me). So I replaced the fuel pump. The pressure regulator is built into the top of it. Pulled the tank, changed the pump and STILL the same code.

So I headed to the local Chevy dealer. It was a bad fuel pump module. The dealer had to call the GM tech center to diagnose it. The Tech said they would have followed the exact same procedure I did. It was like your dad's Jeep, I could have installed the new module but I would not have been able to program it. The test procedure sucks IMO. Well, at least I have a spare fuel pump...

That sounds like a nightmare.

IMO this kind of stuff is what will send modern cars to the junkyard. Not actual mechanical failures, but some module failing and turning the vehicle into a brick that's too expensive to repair. I think it also infringes on the whole "right to repair" thing, since it seems many manufacturers use this as a way to lock out independent mechanics and force owners to go to the dealership, where they could charge whatever they want for the repair.

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by CTinline-six

The funny thing is that although BMWs have the reputation of being expensive to fix, the above really applies to any modern car. One of my coworkers has a Ford Focus which needed new brakes (just pads and rotors). She called a number of different shops and couldn't get a quote that was below $500.

If there is anything on a modern car that involves replacing/programming a module you can forget about DIYing it. That is one of the benefits of BMW, the coding community and ability to get software. My dad's 2013 Grand Cherokee needed a module replaced for the AWD system, and the only place that could code it was the dealership. When the module failed it defaulted to 2WD mode, disabled traction control and the ABS. The module was $600, but the coding labor was about the same.

100%

I went to great lengths to rebuild a volvo ABS module and retain it's original electronics.
Only a volvo dealer can get software from Volvo, VIN locked, and the dealer will only program a virgin module.

so when your P2 ABS pump fails, it's $1500 at the dealer.

Or you buy a $40 pick n pull ABS module and you start learnin.

[eric-florida]

brought it to Vista BMW in Pompano Beach FL... they want $2500 to replace it, is that insane? they charded me $300 for the diagnostics (refundable if work done there). How much would it cost at a local shop?

[mecheng77]

Originally Posted by nsjames

100%

I went to great lengths to rebuild a volvo ABS module and retain it's original electronics.
Only a volvo dealer can get software from Volvo, VIN locked, and the dealer will only program a virgin module.

so when your P2 ABS pump fails, it's $1500 at the dealer.

Or you buy a $40 pick n pull ABS module and you start learnin.

Originally Posted by nsjames

100%

I went to great lengths to rebuild a volvo ABS module and retain it's original electronics.
Only a volvo dealer can get software from Volvo, VIN locked, and the dealer will only program a virgin module.

so when your P2 ABS pump fails, it's $1500 at the dealer.

Or you buy a $40 pick n pull ABS module and you start learnin.

The P80 abs modules suffer from bad weld joints and luckily that's easy to repair

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by eric-florida

brought it to Vista BMW in Pompano Beach FL... they want $2500 to replace it, is that insane? they charded me $300 for the diagnostics (refundable if work done there). How much would it cost at a local shop?

that's crazy money.
It's $500 worth of parts if you buy OEM stuff. pierburg and the like.

If you had it on a lift it would take maybe 4 hours.
I did it in a driveway in about 6, xdrive car, first time I'd ever done the job.

[John 070]

imho one of the issues is the "flat rate" system.

the flip side would be eliminate the t-stat charge, and food is being taken out of the mouths of the tech's family. Broken system.

This is why I think going to an indie is a win--not only less costly, but a better job.

Using my used Lexus as an example, when I got it, went in for a free multipoint and recommended repairs, $6,750. Another YouTube I saw, $11,000.

Go to the indie, do I need all that? You need this: $0

Anyway, it's always going to be a huge difference between what retail is, and what DIY is, for anything. We can't always say it's a rip off. Can you imagine what installing your own HVAC is vs. a contractor for your home? Now you're talking saving 5 figures. Did I ask my wife's uncle to do it for us? No, I paid retail lol

What does your employer charge for your services? Likely 5X what you earn.

Anyhow, seeing the flat rate tech vids on YouTube I wouldn't want the job, but it's the don't hate the playa mantra.

Last time I went to BMW (1X per year) for the state inspection, they charged $37 and didn't upsell anything, so it was straightforward.

DIY, indie, dealer, in that order is my .02