[A4Andre]

i'm in the process of doing the pre-LCI halogen to xenon conversion and do not want to modify any wires. If i understand the write-ups correctly, and excluding the bi-xenon mod, all you need to do is attach a ground wire and tap it to the factory ground wire.

Does anyone know if someone has already created a conversion harness? I did some searching but came up empty. it does not seem hard to make one, but it would save me a lot of time and a headache if i can just purchase it, lol.

[orangedawg]

There is a thread about this, but modifying the wiring is super simple. You can splice the wires inside the unit itself and not have to modify the connector (thanks DESI and all). What you do it splice the two wires together (IIRC, it's the black coming from the xenon ballast) to the brown ground wire going into the connector. Use a tap and it's 100% reversible. and no one sees it. If you want the xenon to work as high beams, you need to splice the other two wires that you reference.

It really is very easy and don't be afraid to try it out!

[A4Andre]

Originally Posted by orangedawg

There is a thread about this, but modifying the wiring is super simple. You can splice the wires inside the unit itself and not have to modify the connector (thanks DESI and all). What you do it splice the two wires together (IIRC, it's the black coming from the xenon ballast) to the brown ground wire going into the connector. Use a tap and it's 100% reversible. and no one sees it. If you want the xenon to work as high beams, you need to splice the other two wires that you reference.

It really is very easy and don't be afraid to try it out!

And this wont give any errors if I use oem bulbs and ballasts?

The write-ups I see here both say to add a ground wire to the connector.

[Delta0311]

Yes it will unless you use Canbus ballasts. My setup is d1s blubs running off of a Canbus ballast. Didn't throw errors except every now and then, so I added a pair of error cancelors and it's been good to go for over 2 years now.

And this week I'm going to install the Burgertunning 6000K halo bulbs.

[A4Andre]

Originally Posted by Delta0311

Yes it will unless you use Canbus ballasts. My setup is d1s blubs running off of a Canbus ballast. Didn't throw errors except every now and then, so I added a pair of error cancelors and it's been good to go for over 2 years now.

And this week I'm going to install the Burgertunning 6000K halo bulbs.

If you dont mind me asking, which canbus ballasts do you use? I have a set for my fogs which i was going to test with, but they dont fit in the OEM spot and i dont want to drill holes.

Also which error cancellors are you using? I heard some like DDM's dont work (not sure how old those posts were, maybe they fixed the issue).

[orangedawg]

I think I misunderstood your question. You were asking about a harness. What I posted was an alternative to a harness. Error cancellors would still be needd. I'm going to code mine so I won't be using cancellers, just the wiring mod I posted.

[A4Andre]

Originally Posted by orangedawg

I think I misunderstood your question. You were asking about a harness. What I posted was an alternative to a harness. Error cancellors would still be needd. I'm going to code mine so I won't be using cancellers, just the wiring mod I posted.

you understood it correctly and i was originally looking for a harness so i wouldn't have to splice wires.

I thought error cancellors wouldn't be needed since it didn't mention them in the write-ups. Do you know what error cancellors people use with the stock bulbs and ballasts?

[orangedawg]

If you are talking about OEM xenons, I'm not sure. I think most peole do coding. You can hit up the coding forum and see if someone can remote code them. Otherwise, I do hear mention of a canbus error cancellor that some are using with their non-oem xenons. I think vendors have them for about $35-40 or so.

[DESI4life10]

If you wish to do an OEM conversion using OEM ballast, using a canceller won't work well.

Those cancellers work with AFTERMARKET Canbus ballast that use non D1S bulbs (most of the time). On top of that, you won't be able to mount the aftermarket ballast to the headlight like the OEM way (you can mount it below it). This way is basically fooling the computer into thinking it is still running halogen lights. I ran this setup for a while and only had errors during cold nights.

Now for the OEM way, you can do what orangedawg pointed out. After that you can "code" the car so that it realizes that it is running OEM xenons. Works just like out of the factory with no errors etc. If you don't have access to a coding cable or a place where you can get the car coded, this method probably won't work well for you.

But this is definately the OEM way to go. No fooling the computers, just programming it so that it knows xenons are installed.

[A4Andre]

Thanks guys and i read your thread about coding some time ago. While i would love to do the coding, i dont want to mess with it for when i decide to trade the car in.

I'll definitely be tapping the lowbeam ground wire to the black ballast wire. I just need to find out where to put the resistor and which one to use.

[orangedawg]

I was just trying to present an alternative to a harness, that's all. If you want a harness, please by all means purchase one. The "splice the ground wires together" method is an alternative for those who wish to do so. Splicing the wires is very simple, you just splice two wires together, and if you like to code your car, it's simple too. If you visit a dealer and they update your car, you can just code your changes back over. You can also code a wide variety of things as well (such as windows up/down with remote, corner delete, add sirus to your car, etc.) all for free once you have the cable and the software, which there is a whole forum section on. Or, if you prefer, you can use the program SSS (what dealers use, search bimmerforums to get help to install it) and do a retrofit for xenon using that and no matter what the dealer does in their coding, it does not affect the retrofit.

All I was presenting was an alternative. If there is a harness out there that will work for your situation, by all means get it. I'm sure it is well worth the price and I think it's great that someone has come up with a harness! Great job guys!!

[A4Andre]

Thanks for all the input guys. i'm going to try contacting Jay and see what the status of the harness is. I did see their youtube videos before, but at the end they always talk about getting a patent. So, who knows if they even produced finished copies for distribution.

If that fails, I guess i'll have to get by with the error for 5 seconds when I turn the lights on. I would code the car, but I dont want to mess with that stuff. Doesnt it or can it void your warranty? That's something I dont want to lose, lol.

[UsnRoberts]

Im new here but in the same boat. Have a link to this "Jay" ??

[DESI4life10]

LOL..Sounds like a sale pitch here.

Clearly your not familar with how the xenons get coded into yoru car. I am not going to run through it.

It's a preference. I rather go the oem way and only have to tap 1 wire as opposed to adding an aftermarket wire which messes around with the electronics of the car. The harness still means that the car thinks it is halogens.

Yea I heard about Damon and his business. He was supposed to replace a ballast for me which never happened.

[DESI4life10]

Originally Posted by A4Andre

Thanks for all the input guys. i'm going to try contacting Jay and see what the status of the harness is. I did see their youtube videos before, but at the end they always talk about getting a patent. So, who knows if they even produced finished copies for distribution.

If that fails, I guess i'll have to get by with the error for 5 seconds when I turn the lights on. I would code the car, but I dont want to mess with that stuff. Doesnt it or can it void your warranty? That's something I dont want to lose, lol.

Coding the car has a less chance of voiding your warranty compared to using a harness to fool the computer.


It is your choice at the end. You have options here. If you look at the coding section, you have members here that are willing to code your car for a small fee/of for free. I think a few are in the NYC area as well.

[A4Andre]

Originally Posted by DESI4life10

Coding the car has a less chance of voiding your warranty compared to using a harness to fool the computer.


It is your choice at the end. You have options here. If you look at the coding section, you have members here that are willing to code your car for a small fee/of for free. I think a few are in the NYC area as well.

I agree with you, but am reluctant to mess with the coding should I decide to trade in the car or something. It's still an option though.

Thanks for all the input and opinions btw

[DESI4life10]

No problem. Good luck. :-)

What happens when you have to take your car in for service and have to remove the harness? That was what I was trying to get at.

[A4Andre]

Originally Posted by DESI4life10

No problem. Good luck. :-)

What happens when you have to take your car in for service and have to remove the harness? That was what I was trying to get at.

That was another one of my concerns. I think for now i'm going to try modifying the lights inside the housing so they wont see anything. I just need to know where to attach the resistors and what type of resistor.

i'm going to tap the brown lowbeam ground to the black ballast wires this weekend and see what errors i get.

[Yvette]

Originally Posted by orangedawg

There is a thread about this, but modifying the wiring is super simple. You can splice the wires inside the unit itself and not have to modify the connector (thanks DESI and all). What you do it splice the two wires together (IIRC, it's the black coming from the xenon ballast) to the brown ground wire going into the connector. Use a tap and it's 100% reversible. and no one sees it. If you want the xenon to work as high beams, you need to splice the other two wires that you reference.

It really is very easy and don't be afraid to try it out!

do you have pics? I can't imagine it w/o looking at it

[Yvette]

Originally Posted by DESI4life10

If you wish to do an OEM conversion using OEM ballast, using a canceller won't work well.

Those cancellers work with AFTERMARKET Canbus ballast that use non D1S bulbs (most of the time). On top of that, you won't be able to mount the aftermarket ballast to the headlight like the OEM way (you can mount it below it). This way is basically fooling the computer into thinking it is still running halogen lights. I ran this setup for a while and only had errors during cold nights.

Now for the OEM way, you can do what orangedawg pointed out. After that you can "code" the car so that it realizes that it is running OEM xenons. Works just like out of the factory with no errors etc. If you don't have access to a coding cable or a place where you can get the car coded, this method probably won't work well for you.

But this is definately the OEM way to go. No fooling the computers, just programming it so that it knows xenons are installed.

hey DESI, aftermarket canbus ballast uses non d1s bulbs?
currently I am working on my conversion for my 1 series.
the xenon headlight uses OEM d1s bulb and I would like to use canbus ballast, which bulb HID kit should I use then??
thanks again,

[Yvette]

Let me summarize,
black wire from ballast tap into brown wire that is wired into the connector, so making ballast and connector connected. This will plug and play but error on Dash.

Now, about the bulb/ballast. I know canbus ballast is error free but some might now I assume, but canbus ballast isn't able to use w/ d1s bulbs.
Am I understanding it correct?

[Yvette]

please look at pictures.
only wire modification needed is this?