[vilord]

To have any of the connecteddrive features work, you need to leave the ATM alone with the VIN of the donor car.

BMW has a database that connects the ATM SIM card IMEI numbers with VINs, and as yet nobody has been able to convince a dealer to change the mapping unless buying a brand new ATM for a 2016+ car.

Your best bet is to buy an ATM with a VIN you know from a non-fleet donor vehicle that still has time left on the connecteddrive account. BMW sometimes also cancels the connecteddrive AT&T SIMs for wrecked cars, so there is some luck involved here too.

I bought one from a non-fleet 2017 X3 owned by a local New England person.

Next step is to change the VIN *of the EVO* to match the ATM. Can't go the other way, because you can't change the VIN in BMW's database. You'll need to buy retrofit FSCs to do this.

I suggest backing up the factory FSCs first, in case you ever want to put the Evo back to how you found it, but otherwise a useless step.

Only once the Evo and ATM have the same VIN do you connect them to each other. I have heard (though I have no proof of this) that the ATM will wipe itself if connected to a mismatching VIN Evo.

The Evo and ATM also need to be at approximately the same i-level.
I flashed my Evo and ATM to 2018-07, which is the last update that supports usb-key FSC installation. Before flashing, they would not communicate.

[Nickco43]

The retrofit is 95% done

I need to do some final touch coding. I am still getting a sos error.

[gamesfrager]

[Nickco43]

Originally Posted by gamesfrager

After having everything from the pro radio to now a NBT Evo in nine months of ownership I feel qualified to say this:

1. The Pro radio with the eBay BT box is the best budget setup
2. The CIC + Combox + backup camera is the best setup for most people
3. The NBT EVO is the highest level of connectivity for the highest level of E90s.

I am going to retrofit F series subs, touch knob and a ICAM backup camera to my car in the next few months. I want to be done with my retrofits after that. (Maybe an lci conversion down the road)

[vilord]

I'll add:

If you have HiFi or Stereo sound, change that before touching anything else. The speakers are horrible. The amp is horrible. The eq-ing is horrible. A complete used L7 setup including speakers, amp, and subs can be had for like 300 bucks, and if coming from HiFi, then the cabling is already 90% done.

Or spend more and buy aftermarket.

But upgrading the input without upgrading the output first is silly.

Also, if going for NBT, go straight to Evo, don't bother with the original/next NBT, as it isn't much of an upgrade over CIC for a lot more work and a good bit more money.

[Nickco43]

For anyone coding the evo. Add your VO except the 600 VOs. Then add the donor cars 600 VOs. Delete 6AC and make sure you have 6AE, 6AK, 6AM, 6AP, 6ND, 6NK, 6CA. It will not accept a few of the E90 vo codes. It will be trial and error to get the FP to calculate. Use the donor car's wheel VO code.

IBA is the owners manual

Delete anything with ECO in it

PIM is the extended BT phone, office menu

ZBE is anything with the knob

APIX is the screen

Delete BMW Assist

FDS are the driving modes

[YoMuS]

Very nice info. Thanks a lot Nickco43

Originally Posted by Nickco43

For anyone coding the evo. Add your VO except the 600 VOs. Then add the donor cars 600 VOs. Delete 6AC and make sure you have 6AE, 6AK, 6AM, 6AP, 6ND, 6NK, 6CA.

IBA is the owners manual

Delete anything with ECO in it

PIM is the extended BT phone, office menu

ZBE is anything with the knob

APIX is the screen

Delete BMW Assist

FDS are the driving modes

[vilord]

Doing a logic 7 retrofit at the same time.
I used the CD changer MOST cable since it was right there.

The CD changer MOST cable has +12vdc and GND in the MOST connector on pins 1 + 2.

The F series amp wants +12vdc on pin 1, BUT NOT GND ON PIN 2.

plugged in and one of the chips or diodes or something on the bottom of the board caught fire.

Anyways, here's an in-progress pic...

[vilord]

and yes, that's 38 degrees F in the garage with a 20kbtu propane heater running full blast

it's cold

[gamesfrager]

Really interested on you final solution for mounting the screen if you don't plan on cutting the dash.

[vilord]

what you see is with a 15cm x 2cm hole already cut in the dash.

the X5 screen has a big thing sticking out the back that i shoved in there.

i'll probably cut the dash more to get it to shove in further.

regardless i'm pretty sure i don't like it and i've ordered a navigation dash from a local parts yard

[vilord]

The other thing I didn't realize before is that the hole at the *bottom* of the dash is also not the same size, so the double din NAV + hvac controls + that row of buttons do not fit.

a lot more custom work than i'm interested in for this project... i want it to look oe

[Nickco43]

My Evo has an issue were it will if I run into a store and comeback it will show the boot animation but then the screen will go back. Forcing me to manually reboot the unit.

[vilord]

Since your car was a non-idrive car to begin with, the RAD-2 power supply comes from the car's Terminal 30G instead of Terminal 30G-F.
One thing that might be happening is that if your Evo is still powered by the factory outlet, the power to the evo and emulator is getting turned off too soon.

30G turns off after 10 minutes. 30G-F stays on permanently unless the car detects that there is too much power draw and will turn it off to save the battery so you can still start it. The Evo and emulator (and ATM) are all capable of deep sleep modes internally, so it is better if they don't lose power.

I suggest doing some digging to find out if your car has a 30G-F relay (it is soldered onto the fuse board in idrive cars, and *most* non-idrive cars with Assist in the USA), and switching the power supply to the evo and emulator to be fed from 30G-F.

I don't have a link, but basically you want to move the wire that goes into the back of the fuse box from the RAD2 position to the CCC/CIC position.

[Nickco43]

Originally Posted by vilord

Since your car was a non-idrive car to begin with, the RAD-2 power supply comes from the car's Terminal 30G instead of Terminal 30G-F.
One thing that might be happening is that if your Evo is still powered by the factory outlet, the power to the evo and emulator is getting turned off too soon.

30G turns off after 10 minutes. 30G-F stays on permanently unless the car detects that there is too much power draw and will turn it off to save the battery so you can still start it. The Evo and emulator (and ATM) are all capable of deep sleep modes internally, so it is better if they don't lose power.

I suggest doing some digging to find out if your car has a 30G-F relay (it is soldered onto the fuse board in idrive cars, and *most* non-idrive cars with Assist in the USA), and switching the power supply to the evo and emulator to be fed from 30G-F.

I don't have a link, but basically you want to move the wire that goes into the back of the fuse box from the RAD2 position to the CCC/CIC position.

hmm, I also have a 06 navi car jbbf in my bench tester I can use.

[Nickco43]

Here are the diagrams.

[Mashman]

Originally Posted by vilord

what you see is with a 15cm x 2cm hole already cut in the dash.

the X5 screen has a big thing sticking out the back that i shoved in there.

i'll probably cut the dash more to get it to shove in further.

regardless i'm pretty sure i don't like it and i've ordered a navigation dash from a local parts yard

Be aware that the screen in the E90 navi dash sits back further than the top mounted later cars. Since you mentioned that your screen is a touch screen, it might be a bit harder to reach.

Also, what L7 amp are you using? I'm guessing you don't have the echo isseu with BT calls?

[gamesfrager]

My plan is similar to this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1920841

If only I had a 3D printer...

[vilord]

Mashman I am currently using a 2009 L7 amp from a 335, but I don't have the microphone hooked up yet, so I probably do have echo issues.

I bought a 2013 L7 amp from an F30, which I hoped to use to avoid the echo, but I then fried it by plugging in the CD changer MOST cable (which has +12v and GND integrated)

I'm hoping to repair the F amp I have, otherwise I'll be scouring the local yards for another.

My screen is a 10.25, so it won't fit in the oem e90 dash housing anyways... I'm planning to modify both the navi dash and an old CIC display shell to bring the 10.25 screen to the *front* of the CIC hole, and therefore I'll be able to reach the touchscreen.

This may end up being yet another failure, but I'll make something work...

[vilord]

Originally Posted by Nickco43

Here are the diagrams.

Might need to look at the full diagram for the JBBF to see what else is connected to 30G_F...
I find it interesting that they don't just use the same part and plug into a different fuse.

[DenoirN54]

My blacktop HU finally came in but I need to order the amp still and the back of my EVO doesn't have a plug for the FM1/FM2 at all. Where else would I get radio signal from? The ATM?

Also reading every post here and seeing in the background how all this went down is just daunting. Thank you for all the work that's been put in to figure this out and having a repository for us to all share info that we figure out.

[vilord]

What does your HU look like on the back? There isn't an external FM/AM tuner for these units...