[Processing61]

Originally Posted by KnighTT

Yeah, I was actually sitting down with a friend yesterday at lunch, who has a lot of track time here locally, and we are looking forward to getting it out on Road Atlanta and seeing how fun it is. It's no time attack car but I'm going to tune it to just be a fun, reliable, and a confident car to drive around the track and be an experience on the streets.

So, the shop got back with me yesterday. They tried every way possible to bleed this thing and can't get it to flush out the air. They said everything is acting like it has a bad master cylinder.

I gave them a call, as I actually replaced the brake booster, check valve, and master cylinder after I had the same issue beforehand with the original hardware. He had a talk with the team and they really think that I may have gotten a bad new master.

So I am overnighting a new one from FCP (OE ATE part ~$141) and I'll speak with FCP about getting a refund on the original.

I'll run that over there as soon as it comes in and we'll keep going forward.

Did the 2nd new master cylinder finally cure the problem? Loving the build, so close!

[KnighTT]

Second mast cyl did the trick. I went out and picked the car up today.

Drive home was nice. It still goes back and forth from running OK at idle. Needs revisions for the tune and that'll come next week.

Everything felt great. The car shifts great. Brakes are great.

I need to Dynamat the truck space. With the blanking plate back there the sound transfer into the cabin from the exhaust I think is too much. As well as the vibration. I think a light layer of mat will cut that right down. Plus solve a rattle I've got back there now that's annoying.

I had to go to three different shops but it is now dropped off for a proper alignment. Nice things is, the shop that didn't say it was too low to work on, actually asked me what kind of camber I wanted. Track, aggressive, street, stock.

So we are doing an aggressive street setup as it won't be living on the track all the time.

I should get it back on Tuesday.

[KnighTT]

Back home! For the moment....The steering wheel is still a little off so I'm gong to have them adjust.



The drive home was great. Transmission is 100%. The full DCT service made all of the difference.

When I got it home I went ahead and ran a full new reflash of my base tune, as MHD has gotten a bunch of upgrades since my last flash. Added linear throttle, set RPM to 900 which solved my idle issues, adjusted the throttle lag to zero(what a difference), and then added my custom attributes. I'll research some of the newer items and see if any of them will benefit.

I had a BLAST driving it and we are just on a safe base tune. I am almost apprehensive on what it will be like when the tune is dialed in and it's smoother and more powerful.

I think I may dial in the tune before I send it out for the paint correction.

[KnighTT]

Just an FYI for anyone that buys an aftermarket hood, and the hood dampers don't work (meaning the hood doesn't close all the way) this is why.



The dampers on the left are stock with the 2011-2013. The right is 2010 and before. Overall length is the same.

Some hoods have been designed based on the older damper travel and that extra 1.5" of shaft travel is what you need. The newer dampers run out of shaft and bind up.

Simply order a set based on the older model. Pretty cheap.

Just an FYI.

[KnighTT]

Went in first thing and had the alignment shop dial the steering in.

Turned out perfect. Also, I feel like the steering was a little less heavy on the way home. Tracked perfectly.

I'm going to test pulling logs over the weekend and getting a good log to send into Wedge for Tuning next week.

It begins.

[KnighTT]

I had a great weekend driving the car around. Some notes and some changes.

PROS:
- Manual DCT mode is truly an experience of responsive performance. I love a good stick shift but I'll admit the precise control to downshift and pull instantaneously, without having to let go of the steering wheel, adds a confidence in control I've never had.

- The thought of the car being tuned for more power is truly scary. This thing already has double the power and throttle response of anything I've owned before and has probably ruined me on any entry level sports car. I'm wondering if I test drove the new 400z if I'd just go.....Meh. I'd be very interested to see how the new Supra would feel in comparison, stock. Same thing with the fully tuned suspension. Being in another car over the weekend was like riding on squishy pillows.

- It drives so smooth down the highway. The steering response is incredible. Turning is so solid. Steering is heavy but that keeps me from flinging it too hard.

CONS:

- I definitely need to get an xHP tune on the DCT. I know that will greatly improve the performance in sport and manual mode but the casual driving around in D mode, and even sD at lower speeds is just so dismal. Boggy AF. It wants to sit at 1,500RPM in 6-7th gear too often and feels so sluggish even compared to a family sedan. Plus at 1,500RPM, when you try to accelerate, the exhaust tone is concussive and annoying until it gets over 2000rpm.


- Fully tuned suspension is NOT what you want driving around metro ATL. The roads are brutal, even at 10-15mph. But that's any sports car really.

CHANGES

- I've been getting a 2D2E code every few hours. Always comes back, even after adaptations and changes. I didn't get the mixture control errors again most of the weekend, which was surprising.

Yesterday it started to feel weird and surge on acceleration. I wasn't holding boost or very little. (I'm not doing anything WOT just yet).

Pulled over, reset adaptations and throttle, and it went away but felt wrong when you gave it more throttle. When the car warms up all the way it doesn't idle smoothly. That's always been there since modifications. Oddly it is a 40/60% split. Sometimes you are sitting there and it's just purring perfectly and then the next light it's just acting like it's got little shimmy and shakes and misfires.

When you are cruising around 35-45mph it's like you can feel a slight oscillation of the throttle. Like it pulls and comes back, and pulls, and comes back, ever so slightly. You can feel it in your butt. Almost like the throttle is changing 1-2% on it's own or like the brakes are being slightly depressed and then let go. It's just barely noticeable but there.

All of the things I am experiencing, even the little stumbles as you come to a stop as it downshifts, it really all feels like the throttle body isn't acting right. Most of the people that have solved this code did so by changing the throttle body.

So I ordered a new VDO throttle body. I mean mine has a ton of miles on it, it's only a $270 part, and in any case will rule out a complex electric part being the culprit.

Should be here this week, should take 30min to swap, and we'll see if that solves the issues. Then we can get out and do some pulls to get some logs for Wedge Tuning.

[KnighTT]

The other project over the weekend was to resolve the exhaust noise in the cabin.

I installed this race plate during the build. It removes all of the plastic tub in the trunk and all of the heat shielding underneath. This issue being that now only a steel plate separates your exhaust from the interior of your car and it was more noisy than I was comfortable with. My exhaust has a rather deep tone when accelerating. I don't need to be cranking on the music all of the time just to drown it out.


So I put in a Dynamat like solution and this really did subdue it. It lost the volume but you still get the enjoyment of the feel of driving around hearing the exhaust system but not enough to make the interior hard to talk in.

[KnighTT]

As I'm already going to have some things tore apart, I decided to go ahead and order the one last engine bay item I've held off on this build.

The Turner aluminum relocated coolant expansion tank.



I pieced the kit together based on what I needed. I already have the relocated wire loom, the lower rad hose and lines, for the 335d res. That dropped the total price down $200. All I needed was the res itself, the cap, and the coolant res sensor. I also ordered the upper coolant line as it is a shorter run that the one I already have. Should look better.


The truth is the 335d exp tank works just fine. BUT....it is one of the only large plastic accessories left in the engine bay. It doesn't look right when the rest of the engine bay is aftermarket and performance parts. It also protrudes over the charge pipe and the hose that comes off of it runs over the top of parts and doesn't look as well thought out as the rest of the bay.



90% of the reason for this purchase is it well rounds out the aesthetic of the engine bay. It is performance designed, has better internal baffling for track work, but mostly it is the best looking solution for relocating your coolant res and tucks away in place far better than making the 335d res "work".

Also, I'll have to verify this, the full Turner kit may prevent you from needing to purchase the special "335d charge pipe". Only a couple company's make it and it costs far more than any normal charge pipe. Truth is, even some of the cheap no brand charge pipes work just fine in the N54. It's really just a chunk of pipe. As long as the throttle body and BOV bracket is designed well. If you add up all of the special parts to make the 334d coolant res work, and the res itself, the Turner kit may be cheaper in the long run and a better solution.

I had ordered one of these back in 2020, as I basically ordered the entire Turner catalog for the engine bay it seems, but after 6+ months of the coolant res being backordered, I cancelled it and the rest of the huge kit I ordered shipped. The res wasn't available for well over a year. Now it's in stock at most times.

I was looking at a custom alum res that a guy on Facebook makes, powder coated in black, but the price was too close to this kit for me to chance quality and design. This one is obviously perfectly designed for the E92 and matches the black wrinkle coat that is on other parts of my build.

[NoGuru]

I look at that coolant kit all the time, but the price.... But if you are dropping $200 off that is not bad. I have seen this kit and it really is the best option IMO.

[KnighTT]

IMO, I think Turner makes some of the best well thought out products for the N54 and the e92. Everything I have fits well, looks great, solves issues with changes to the engine bay, and is performance designed.

That all being said, in the scheme of parts for this car, everything they sell costs 20-40% higher than it should be.

[KnighTT]

Well, now I know why people have such a problem with ECS. The products are fine, that's not on them. If you can't stand behind your products getting to your customer though, when they are clearly lost, or already headed back to your warehouse, I'll take my business elsewhere.

2/20
I ordered a new throttle body. $273. ($305 with shipping)
Paid for express shipping so I could install it before the weekend. Turns out this is through a new experimental shipper. "Kart2Door".

I also ordered a bunch of other things, in another order, on the same day, but did not pay for express shipping. Both were due to arrive today.

The non-expedited order arrives today. Fast for free shipping, eh? 2 days.

The other order is missing. So I contact them for tracking information.

So, it got to Atlanta on the 21st but then gets scanned in North Carolina the same day later that night?! Then just sits there for 2 days. Obviously got sent to where it wasn't intended. They then say it looks to be being sent back to ECS.

They will not cancel the order. Will not refund. They say it will be returned to them and then they will ship it to me but no ETA. If I need it faster, I am welcome to re-order the part, pay for it, and pay for shipping, again.

No solution given. They can't do anything for something that has already shipped. Overnight would be $60 and it actually wouldn't get here until next Tuesday

......then I find the same exact part on RockAuto for $190.
FedEx ground for $11, 2 days. So I ordered that one and I'll be returning the one from ECS.

Time for a cocktail. I need more peaceful hobbies. Like BDSM or stamp collecting....

[whyzee125]

The oscillations seemed to creep up on a lot of N54 owner, myself included, about a year ago. I'd never heard of it before but lots of people were scrambling in every direction searching for a cure. I replaced a ton of hardware to no avail. It makes no sense, but what cured it for me and a few others was completely uninstalling MHD then reinstalling it. It's been over a year for me and it hasnt come back.

Though my idle was always fine so very likely not your issue, but could be worth a try.

[KnighTT]

Much better. This really tucks both res out of the way and the lines don't go over the charge pipe anymore. The coolant res is much smaller than the stock. It is also a very high quality piece. The fit is perfect and the mount is rock solid.



See how the coolant res doesn't really protrude past the shock tower now?

[built.e92]

This is one badass e92 lci build! How is the hood fitment after sending it to the body shop?

[KnighTT]

Everything is back together.



With these last few parts, I am officially done with the engine and bay side of the build. Unless anything comes up in the tuning process.



When I took the car out for a few hours on Friday things felt really good, especially after I got back. The idle was buttery smooth. BUT pulling off from a stop was always really jerky. Throttle response was lurch-y and would sometimes oscillate. Kind of like when you were learning to drive a stick.

I re-flashed and added back linear throttle, dropped idle to 900, and went out.

It takes a while for AFR's not to be 19-20 when you are sitting still, which makes the car idle like crap, as it runs too rich. It starts to creep back down to ~15-16 at idle after driving around for a while. I think it just takes a while for the car to properly learn it's new smooth idle especially with the added RPM.

Linear throttle solved the lurchy pull aways from stop. Seems to be great now. I noticed the base custom map boosts to 18PSI so we have a lot more room as we go into revisions and start the tune.

[KnighTT]

(...some guy just drove through my neighborhood with the worst burble tune. Every time he let off the gas it sounded like a lawnmower drowning in a bathtub.)

We had a great weekend.



I got some good miles in on the car, went to a great gaming festival, and really felt like the car was feeling great by the end of the weekend. Driving around in full sport or in manual mode on the DCT is really how to enjoy the car. Plus the Nelson Racing shifter paddles really make a difference. It also finally started to idle more consistently in the proper AFR. It's be around 19-20 AFR at idle and run like garbage. Once things seem to settle in though, it's back to 14.5-16 and idles nice and smooth.

So, later yesterday afternoon I finally decided to go ahead and do some pulls and get some real logs. Time to tune this thing.

Found a good spot where I didn't feel I needed to worry about any traffic, nice long straight, and set up MHD as directed. I did a test pull just to see if auto-logging worked and saved a file. Felt good.

Then I did a real pull being more prepared and holy $%$#. Man can that thing pull. Again, it is almost unsettling how powerful this car is even just on the base tune. If this is ~19PSI....the mid 20's and properly tuned is going to be nuts.

So, I went ahead and sent my log over to Wedge and actually got a response back last night.

He says my LPFP is bad, sent me some links to recommended upgrades, and gave me a V2 map for after the fix.

WELL, as I already have the PR Stage 2.5v2 LPFP installed, I had some questions and wanted to look over the logs. If I have a bum LPFP from PR, I'm going to expect them to step up and replace it. It has less than 500miles on it.

https://datazap.me/u/knightt/frist-l...0&data=3-11-21

So Here are the logs.
Boost is Orange, as we got up to right around 20psi.
Grey is RPM - pull was 3rd gear from 2k all the way up to 7k.
The Purple line is LPFP.



When I initially step on it, it ramps up to ~80PSI. Then, as you can see, it starts to bounce around. I did NOT feel anything weird when I was doing the pull though. It accelerated hard and I did not feel hesitations or misfires.

It gets down to about 52PSI on the first pull and 46PSI on the log I sent to Wedge.

Now I'm not going to just order another pump, or jump on PR for a replacement, but I did go ahead and order the updated LPFP sensor and line. The sensor and line itself have a newer design and I want to make sure the sensor isn't the culprit. Especially seeing that thing bounce around like that.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...y/13537622751/

I'll drop that in and go out for some more logs and see if things get better or worse in the readings. Not saying it will solve the drop in pressure but I do wonder if I'll at least get a smoother graph.

I'll also drop the V2 map on there and see what the logs look like.

[KnighTT]

Alright, so ordering a whole new drop-in assembly from PR to fix a possible fuel pump issue would cost almost $500. I'm also not 100% sure that is the issue yet. Even though I have only put 500 miles or so on the kit, I did order it just over a year ago, so ECS or PR are outside the warranty period. Which sucks.

So, I went ahead and ordered the the Walbro 535 pump itself from Summit Racing for $130. If I need to swap out the pump, I'll just swap out the actual pump. The bucket and assembly I am sure are fine. Plus the bucket that comes from PR can be taken apart much easier than the stock. I'll just swap them out and then see if that resolves the issue, if we get that far.

That should cover most of my bases. First step is getting the new fuel line fitting and LPFP pressure sensor in.

[Torgus]

The bouncing around is from the EKP I believe and you will always see it while your EKP controls your fuel pump. If you want a flat line you need a BMP4 I believe.

[KnighTT]

Torgus I'm listening....
NoGuru Want to chime in here? I know you did a bunch of work on the EKPM on your car.

Could this be causing the drop off as well? If the Walbro 535 isn't getting enough extra voltage? I think I've run across that ProTools has a voltage fix for that.

Trying to get a list together of what to try before I rip anything out.

[whyzee125]

Interesting log, what fuel are you on? I know you're just on the base map but the timing corrections look more concerning than fuel pressure. There are corrections on all 6 cylinders. Fuel pressure is definitely weak for an upgraded pump but thankfully doesn't appear dangerously low. The craziest part of this log to me is that your IAT's drop throughout the run? Do you run meth? Good luck and I cant wait to see the next updates!

[KnighTT]

whyzee125 I always fill up 93 at Chevron.

The car did sit for a while but it's got almost 2 full tanks ran through it over the last few weeks now.

[whyzee125]

Originally Posted by KnighTT

whyzee125 I always fill up 93 at Chevron.

The car did sit for a while but it's got almost 2 full tanks ran through it over the last few weeks now.

Could be due to the built motor the knock sensors are picking up some noise but I'm sure Wedge will get you running solid whatever is causing it. Hope to see this thing in person someday!