[mecheng77]

Originally Posted by Bimmer_Engineer

So I drove all over town measuring floor jacks today trying to find one that is low enough to reach the front jacking point, 4" clearance by my measurements, to no avail. I have two jacks that each measure about 5 1/2" so a 2x4 should get me there...I'm wondering if anyone else has a floor jack in their possession that will get under the front of the car without the 2x4s that doesn't cost over $300 like the one referenced earlier in this thread.

I have a set of ramps too and they're too steep for this car. I've had this new intercooler sitting on my garage floor for 3 weeks now and I'm going to put it on tomorrow come hell or high water...

Yes, the harborfreight low profile steel jack I recently bought works great. I compare it to a standard trolley jack in this video including the science behind the rapid pump.

I made some custom jack adaptors at a machine shop from steel, I need to make a new video. They are amazing.

[Bimmer_Engineer]

Originally Posted by mecheng77

Yes, the harborfreight low profile steel jack I recently bought works great. I compare it to a standard trolley jack in this video including the science behind the rapid pump.

I made some custom jack adaptors at a machine shop from steel, I need to make a new video. They are amazing.

I ended up using a low profile jack I already had that didn't quite fit and some wood under the front wheels to get some clearance. Power steering flush and diff fluid change went great...the intercooler swap is going less great. It didn't quite fit exactly so I had to drill a new hole and get some different screws...headed home to bolt it up now...wish me luck...

[cahme]

I generally agree with what you have said, but ...

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Per the BMW TIS procedure I posted earlier, the correct way is to jack the car up from the center front and center rear jack points and set the car down on flat-topped jack stands.

In the pdf discussing the trolley jack, it doesn't say a "correct" way, but does state:
"The vehicle may be raised with a trolley jack only at the following jacking points!
1 Car jacking point on reinforcement strut (rearwheeldrive)
2 Side car jacking points
3 Rear differential"

I personally don't use the side jacking points to lift, but it clearly states they may be used.

[mecheng77]

Originally Posted by cahme

I generally agree with what you have said, but ...


In the pdf discussing the trolley jack, it doesn't say a "correct" way, but does state:
"The vehicle may be raised with a trolley jack only at the following jacking points!
1 Car jacking point on reinforcement strut (rearwheeldrive)
2 Side car jacking points
3 Rear differential"

I personally don't use the side jacking points to lift, but it clearly states they may be used.

Where is item 1) the "reinforcement strut"?

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by cahme

I generally agree with what you have said, but ...


In the pdf discussing the trolley jack, it doesn't say a "correct" way, but does state:
"The vehicle may be raised with a trolley jack only at the following jacking points!
1 Car jacking point on reinforcement strut (rearwheeldrive)
2 Side car jacking points
3 Rear differential"

I personally don't use the side jacking points to lift, but it clearly states they may be used.

I said it was the correct way because the TIS is published by BMW, the manufacturer of the vehicle, so it is a fair position to take that if the manufacturer publishes technical information on how to lift and support the vehicle, then it is the correct way.

The correct way to raise the vehicle is published by BMW so to 1) prevent harm to the technician working on the vehicle, and 2) prevent damage to the vehicle. I've stated over and over in this thread and on the fourm the safest way to raise the E9X is to use the center-front jacking point and set the front down on flattopped jack stands, then lift the rear using the rear-center jacking point (the diff housing) and set the rear down of flattopped jack stands. The jack stands are placed under the side lifting points (the plastic blocks).

I use the side lifting points because they are placed there for use with commercial automotive lifts, which is what I have. The car can sit on the plastic blocks until the suspension fastening hardware rusts away and the wheels fall off

The side lift points are designed for the car to sit on when lifted.

[cahme]

Originally Posted by mecheng77

Where is item 1) the "reinforcement strut"?

It's in the PDF attached to Post #7:
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showp...04&postcount=7

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

I said it was the correct way because the TIS is published by BMW, the manufacturer of the vehicle, so it is a fair position to take that if the manufacturer publishes technical information on how to lift and support the vehicle, then it is the correct way.

My point in quoting the TIS was to re-enforce that lifting the car with a trolley jack at a side car jacking point is stated as an option, therefore is indeed a "correct" way to lift.

That is all, no hidden points behind it. I've read many who use it to gain access to the center jacking point, which seems to be within the guidelines set in the TIS posted.

[ThugzZ BunnY]

you boys sure do like to talk about jacking

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by cahme

It's in the PDF attached to Post #7:
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showp...04&postcount=7



My point in quoting the TIS was to re-enforce that lifting the car with a trolley jack at a side car jacking point is stated as an option, therefore is indeed a "correct" way to lift.

That is all, no hidden points behind it. I've read many who use it to gain access to the center jacking point, which seems to be within the guidelines set in the TIS posted.

Okay, so I'll try this one last time. IIRC correctly the point of this thread was that the side lifting points , which is where the plastic lifting blocks are located, the plastic blocks get "easily" damaged, and several companies, and private owners, have devised various "adapter" devices to prevent damage to the plastic lifting blocks.

The point I made was adapters are not necessary to protect the plastic lifting blocks if the proper equipment and procedure is used to lift and then support the vehicle. In the link you posted, I provided examples of what the proper equipment is, a long-reach saddle jack and flat-topped jack stands. The .pdf is from the BMW TIS, which shows where jacking (lifting) and supporting equipment (i.e. jack stands) are to touch the chassis. Elsewhere in the thread I explained that the plastic lifting blocks get damaged because owners use cheap floor jacks that do not roll under the car while it is being lifted, which side-loads the walls of the plastic lifting block, thus damaging them. Also, I stated that if the incorrect jack stands are used under the plastic lifting blocks (i.e. axle jack stands) the narrow and curved head of the stand concentrates the weight of the vehicle on small areas of the walls of the plastic lifting blocks, which over-stresses the wall and deforms it, thus damaging the plastic lifting block. This same phenomenon happens when a floor jack is used on the plastic lifting block where the edges of the cup of the jack over-stresses the walls of the plastic lifting. So companies, and private owners, devise adapters to fit into the lifting block to fill the void and spread the load onto a flat sacrificial surface.

In TIS drawing, BMW shows the 3 different locations the chassis can be lifted from. 1 - is the front-center jacking point, where one uses a floor jack to lift the entire front of the vehicle; 2 - are the plastic lifting blocks; 3 - is the differential rear-center jacking point, where one uses a floor jack to lift the entire rear of the vehicle. I stated that the correct and safe way to lift and then support the vehicle is to use the front and rear center jacking points and then place flat-topped jack stands under the side plastic lifting blocks. Using the proper tools for this technique requires no adapters for the plastic lifting blocks.

The #2 side plastic lifting blocks are considered jacking points by BMW, but their primary purpose is to be used by commercial automotive lifts, such as a Bend-Pack, or Rotary lift.

Yes, you can use the side plastic lifting blocks to jack the chassis up. If you use the proper technique, which is allowing the floor jack to roll under the side of the car as it is being lifted will not damage the lifting block. The problem with that technique is most cheap floor jacks have small metal wheels that don't roll well under load, and thus the jack cup under the plastic lifting block pulls sideways on the walls of the plastic lifting block, which damages the block. The other issue with this method is once the car is lifted using the side plastic lifting block, there is then no place to place a jack stand to support the chassis. BMW expressly states in other documents (and in the Bentley Repair Manual) not to place jack stands under other parts of the chassis/suspension because that chassis/suspension may get damaged. So this indicates the correct way to lift and support the vehicle is to use the front/rear center jacking point method.

So... to prevent all of that stupid shit from happening and needing to use stupid adapters, just get the correct equipment and use the proper front-center/rear-center procedure to lift and support the vehicle.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by ThugzZ BunnY

you boys sure do like to talk about jacking

Well, it does give us all a lift now doesn't it.

[mecheng77]

Efthreeoh You make many valid points, I agree jacking from the front and rear is better for the reasons you list. However, inside a garage it is hard to find the length in many garages, especially with the rapid pump jacks which have long poles. Something I outline in my video, they need more force to jack them up.

I would have to keep my garage door open to jack the rear of car and in the front it would be tight for room. That is the only reason I sometimes jack from the side but I make sure my jack rolls, I then put 1 jack stand and only do it when working for a small time duration (quick tire change), otherwise the car is on all 4 jack stands.

[lab_rat]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Use the correct procedure and proper tools...

Most people do not know how to properly use a floor saddle jack.

In the pdf, the picture isn't very clear for me as far as the exact location on the rear diff to lift using the floor jack.

I assumed its the subframe, but it appears to point to the 'pumpkin' itself?

BTW, I have those exact stands, and an Arcan XL2T floor jack. Top notch equipment.

[Bimmer_Engineer]

So I was looking for some flat top jackstands and I found these...any reason these wouldn't work? They don't look nearly as sturdy as the ESCO jackstands...but they say they're rated to 3 tons....and they're a lot cheaper...

https://www.etrailer.com/Camper-Jack...BoCwg0QAvD_BwE

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by Bimmer_Engineer

So I was looking for some flat top jackstands and I found these...any reason these wouldn't work? They don't look nearly as sturdy as the ESCO jackstands...but they say they're rated to 3 tons....and they're a lot cheaper...

https://www.etrailer.com/Camper-Jack...BoCwg0QAvD_BwE

I think the pad would be troublesome mating up to the lifting block on the E9X. Using an adapter would help.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by lab_rat

In the pdf, the picture isn't very clear for me as far as the exact location on the rear diff to lift using the floor jack.

I assumed its the subframe, but it appears to point to the 'pumpkin' itself?

BTW, I have those exact stands, and an Arcan XL2T floor jack. Top notch equipment.

The TIS clearly states not to use the aluminum diff cover, which mean use the pumpkin.

I decided to reformat the TIS instructions:

[Bimmer_Engineer]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

I think the pad would be troublesome mating up to the lifting block on the E9X. Using an adapter would help.

I just ordered a set of the stands and 4 hockey pucks to use as adapters...I’ll let y’all know how it goes.

[Bimmer_Engineer]

Originally Posted by Bimmer_Engineer

So I was looking for some flat top jackstands and I found these...any reason these wouldn't work? They don't look nearly as sturdy as the ESCO jackstands...but they say they're rated to 3 tons....and they're a lot cheaper...

https://www.etrailer.com/Camper-Jack...BoCwg0QAvD_BwE

For anyone else looking for cheaper flat top jack stands...I bought these for $40 and 4 hockey pucks off of eBay for $11. I tried it out for the first time yesterday and it worked great...

[mecheng77]

Just Got the steel BMW jack stand pads from the machine shop. I try them out and show how I designed them.

What do you guys use for your jack stands?

[Bimmer_Engineer]

I’m using these with 4 hockey pucks on top...hey work great! I’ve had the car on them for up to a week with no issues...

https://www.etrailer.com/Camper-Jack...BoCwg0QAvD_BwE

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Don't see why you need any adapter. I've raised the car without any and held it up on all 4s for 4 days with regular V jack stand.

[Bimmer_Engineer]

Duplicate post

[blueloco]

Costco had a very similar to the HF trolley jack for less than $100. Works great on my XI with no need to drive up on 2x4 or ramps. Before that it was a pain to get onto the stands. I ordered new jack pads because the old ones were really torn up. The PO had the vehicle serviced by BMW or an indy shop and I have the 'complete' service history so it makes me wonder how they ended up that way.

Anyway, I am experimenting with a couple of acetal blocks I machined to fit inside of the BMW jack pad lift points. I milled them to fit flush with the jack pads except raised on the ends. This lets me set the car on the jackstands with the pad sitting in the U/saddle of the jack stand and the raised edges shouldn't allow the vehicle to slip off. Acetal/delrin is tough stuff, but I would feel better with aluminum. I really don't get what the engineers were intending with these things but they can be made to work. It is better than a pinch weld I guess.