[smallseafishie]

Swap is straight forward. Unbolt exhaust / downpipe and let it hang, remove transmission crossmember. Remove bumper, headlights, radiator, intake, core support, and hood. I unbolted the power steering pump, transmission cooler (i just disconnected the cooler lines from the clips running along the engine), and ac compressor from the engine and hung it in place (less fluids / mess). Remove cowl and disconnect all wiring from the ECU box. Disconnect the main B+ / ground strap. Remove the little cover / shield next to the transmissions (driver side) and disconnect the fuel and vacuum lines right there. Then with a long extension and some creative swivels, remove all the transmission screws. The top ones near the starter are easier from the top. Disconnect the engine mount (I removed the screws that held the mount to the K-Frame. The only mess you should deal with is the radiator fluid. Attach the tow hook to the engine near the oil filter housing and lift. A leveler will really help here.

As far as maintenance, i'd go ahead and do the rear main seal, and oil pan gasket. All of the other items aren't that bad to do with the engine in place. But since it's all out, I'd go ahead and do the oil filter housing gasket and valve cover gasket as well. When you unmate the transmission from the engine, make sure you lock the Torque Converter in place so it doesn't slide out.

My only word of advice is make sure the TC is fully seated before mating the replacement engine.

The transmission was the biggest PIA part of the whole process when I did mine.

Good luck

[andrew.nottingham]

For those who are interested, i have yet to get much progress, at this point other things have become more important so i don't work on it much, but i have made a little bit of progress and the engine is ready to be pulled out, i just need to figure out a way to get it out as the tow eye seems to be missing.

Anyways, i had a 328i owner interested in the intake manifold from the old motor. When i went to grab the manifold, i heard something rattling. I unscrewed a large hatch (now known to me as a DISA valve), which looked like an open hoop protruding into the intake manifold. I found a flap laying on the inside of the manifold and upon further inspection saw that there is clearly a pin of some sort that goes through the center of the flap and secures it to the disa valve. This pin is no where to be found, leading me to conclude that the pin might be to blame for the old engine's failure (#6 cylinder no compression).

I read there might be a DISA valve rebuild kit available? I would like to repair the disa valve and sell the intake manifold but it may not be worth it.'

Thoughts?

[Joebie]

I have read one other thread a long long time ago about someone's DISA valve breaking and ruining cylinder #6. Its a definite possibility.

The rebuild kit (i think) has you cut apart the plastic motor housing of the valve to access the internals, and then glue it back together. I've never done it but it doesn't sound very easy.

With that being said, the new parts in the rebuild kit I think are a bit more robust, and a new DISA is really expensive so it might be worth at least trying.

Good luck!

[andrew.nottingham]

Well, i finally did it. Only took me 3 weeks of working on it around 2 hours a day. The engine and transmission came out today, and it came out fairly easy. Hopefully putting it back together will be not only easier, but faster as well.

Thanks for the help so far guys!

[andrew.nottingham]

I had to swap oil pans because the oil pan from the new engine was either cracked during an accident or the engine was dropped trying to remove it. there was a solid chunk a little bigger than the size of a quarter in the bottom of the pan.

The oil pan in the new engine had two of these little rubber plugs in the bottom of it. A friend of mine suggested it could be a plug from manufacturing the motor and that it is left in there simply because it is too large to do any damage, he says he has seen it in transmission pans. During manufacturing they just simply push the plug in he said. I'm just asking to make sure these plugs aren't from inside the motor and are supposed to be on something.

[Joebie]

That doesn't sound right to me.

Do you have a picture of the "plugs"?

[sasa79]

Hello I have a problem with my Bmw e91 2.0d 163ks
When i start motor on my dashboard turn on many lamps(abs...) and start work rear wiper blade

[andrew.nottingham]

Originally Posted by Joester

That doesn't sound right to me.

Do you have a picture of the "plugs"?

no. everything looks alright in the crankcase that i can see, so it is likely everything is alright. they had bubble wrap inside the hole and duct tape on the outside. maybe they were trying to use the plugs to plug the hole in the pan, idk.