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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > I am so sick of troubleshooting 30ff. (overview, logs, and video)



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      07-27-2018, 10:53 AM   #23
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If there isn't a leak somewhere probably is the wastegates. Post #1 stated that you checked and they hold pressure OK but that is when engine is off. When engine runs exhaust gas can lift the flapper up.
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      07-27-2018, 11:03 AM   #24
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Quote:
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If there isn't a leak somewhere probably is the wastegates. Post #1 stated that you checked and they hold pressure OK but that is when engine is off. When engine runs exhaust gas can lift the flapper up.
What I'm reading here is buy knockoff Vargas turbos for $900 on ebay, right? I'm on it!
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      07-27-2018, 11:14 AM   #25
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What I'm reading here is buy knockoff Vargas turbos for $900 on ebay, right? I'm on it!
You should try adjusting both wastegate actuators and go from there. Let assume they need to hold pressure when 7hg is applied. That is when they are new. When old 7hg won't apply enough pressure to keep them closed with engine running especially at higher RPM with greater exhaust flow. So adjust them to close at 6 or 5hg. Do this if you are absolutely certain there aren't any leaks. Or work will be in vain.
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      07-27-2018, 11:18 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by feuer View Post
You should try adjusting both wastegate actuators and go from there. Let assume they need to hold pressure when 7hg is applied. That is when they are new. When old 7hg won't apply enough pressure to keep them closed with engine running especially at higher RPM with greater exhaust flow. So adjust them to close at 6 or 5hg. Do this if you are absolutely certain there aren't any leaks. Or work will be in vain.
Good point. I observed the front and back actuators last night (with the engine off) and the rods both stop moving at about 7 or 8 PSI on my mityvac hand pump. I haven't done the washer fix on the front turbo, but have adjusted the rod on my rear turbo before. I'll look into doing that.
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      08-09-2018, 01:56 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by srey View Post

Sorry if this thread annoys anyone. I'm mostly using it to document the diagnosing process for my car.
No annoyance here...I think this is a great resource...

I've got a 30FF of my own i'm chasing now...
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      08-16-2018, 11:39 PM   #28
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I wanted to follow up on this now that I appear to have resolved the issue. First of all, in addition to the things I've done in diagnosing the car and chronicled in prior posts, I discovered my vacuum lines were leaking at the hard plastic lines that go over the valve cover. They only leaked when pressed into the formed housing channels in the valve cover, and when I tested them I never had them pressed in that way, which is why I couldn't detect the leak (they didn't leak when loose from the housings). I also discovered a problem in the function of the cheap generic boost solenoids I bought on Amazon for $30/piece. I ordered some Pierburg units from FCP Euro. Just to be sure, I also decided to do the front turbo wastegate washer fix.

Tonight I installed single lengths of silicone hose from the vacuum pump to the cannisters, did the washer fix, and installed the new OEM boost solenoids. I just got done going for a test drive and I couldn't be happier. It appears I have finally resolved my 30ff problem. No codes and the log looks good to me, right?

https://datazap.me/u/chsjapanese/log...=0&data=3-5-21

I wanted to conclude this thread in hopes that it might help the next one of us that is chasing boost leaks.

Last edited by srey; 08-17-2018 at 12:14 AM..
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      10-20-2018, 08:18 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by srey View Post
I wanted to follow up on this now that I appear to have resolved the issue. First of all, in addition to the things I've done in diagnosing the car and chronicled in prior posts, I discovered my vacuum lines were leaking at the hard plastic lines that go over the valve cover. They only leaked when pressed into the formed housing channels in the valve cover, and when I tested them I never had them pressed in that way, which is why I couldn't detect the leak (they didn't leak when loose from the housings). I also discovered a problem in the function of the cheap generic boost solenoids I bought on Amazon for $30/piece. I ordered some Pierburg units from FCP Euro. Just to be sure, I also decided to do the front turbo wastegate washer fix.

Tonight I installed single lengths of silicone hose from the vacuum pump to the cannisters, did the washer fix, and installed the new OEM boost solenoids. I just got done going for a test drive and I couldn't be happier. It appears I have finally resolved my 30ff problem. No codes and the log looks good to me, right?

https://datazap.me/u/chsjapanese/log...=0&data=3-5-21

I wanted to conclude this thread in hopes that it might help the next one of us that is chasing boost leaks.
i'm bringing this back from the dead. did you end up adjusting both actuators?
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      10-21-2018, 04:42 AM   #30
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i'm bringing this back from the dead. did you end up adjusting both actuators?
+1 would love to know, ive been chasing a boost leak too
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      10-21-2018, 08:36 PM   #31
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i'm bringing this back from the dead. did you end up adjusting both actuators?
I did. The car is boosting correctly. I'm getting ready to park the car for the winter in a few weeks. It will go up on jackstands and get full bolt-ons, hopefully reducing spool time. I'm at 5000' elevation, so i still get a little lag. I'm trying to decide whether i should do inlets on stock turbos too.
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      10-22-2018, 05:38 AM   #32
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I did. The car is boosting correctly. I'm getting ready to park the car for the winter in a few weeks. It will go up on jackstands and get full bolt-ons, hopefully reducing spool time. I'm at 5000' elevation, so i still get a little lag. I'm trying to decide whether i should do inlets on stock turbos too.
did you adjust the front using washers and the rears? How many miles have you put on them since the adjustment?

I think this is my issue too ...
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      10-25-2018, 10:57 AM   #33
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did you adjust the front using washers and the rears? How many miles have you put on them since the adjustment?

I think this is my issue too ...
I used washer on the front and adjusted the rod on the rear. I probably have 1200 miles on them with no issues. I'm about to put the car away for the winter, though.
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      10-25-2018, 03:43 PM   #34
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I used washer on the front and adjusted the rod on the rear. I probably have 1200 miles on them with no issues. I'm about to put the car away for the winter, though.
that's sweet .. i probably need to do it. do the solenoids re learn the system?
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      10-25-2018, 06:47 PM   #35
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What? Solenoids relearn shit its the dme telling them what to do via wgdc pid.
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      10-25-2018, 07:59 PM   #36
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What? Solenoids relearn shit its the dme telling them what to do via wgdc pid.
whats PID stand for?
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      10-26-2018, 06:14 AM   #37
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whats PID stand for?
A pid controller used universally- proportional, integral, differential. That is how the n54 adds (or subracts) wgdc over base and adder to meet boost target.
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      10-26-2018, 08:57 AM   #38
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A pid controller used universally- proportional, integral, differential. That is how the n54 adds (or subracts) wgdc over base and adder to meet boost target.
Sweet! I'm waiting for my BimmerGeeks cable to come in so I can install MHD.

I'm planning on looking at my log to diagnose my 30FF (i believe its' wastegate related) .. so then when fixed I'm hoping to hit similar power levels to you eventually!
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