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      10-05-2018, 11:00 PM   #1
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335i Clutch Upgrades? Conflicting info, Stage 2

Hi everyone, I was searching around and see conflicting information about stage 2 clutches and people doing swaps and chatter and so forth.. Not really having any luck answering my questions.

I have a 2007 335i E90, and when the turbos start to get boost I feel like my clutch starts to slip, so its time for a new clutch, my question is this, would a oem equivalent clutch setup be able to handle a California emissions car, which may or may not see 100 or less ft lbs of torque added through tune and bolt ons?

Or can I get a stage 2 clutch, throw it on the factory dual mass flywheel and call it a day?

I don't want the car to make anymore noise like chatter, since I have either a bad cat, or a wastegate rattle on acceleration and takeoff, and I do daily the car. (Haven't checked out the cause too much yet)

I do want something grippy, but still derivable without making a ton of noise, idk how strong the oem clutches are, but slipping is a no go for me, can't have that
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      10-06-2018, 01:17 AM   #2
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I've been running BMW 335IS/550i clutch for the past 2 years.
Just replaced it after 40k miles as it was starting to slip. Great solution for anyone under 500HP as it holds power really well and it feels like stock.

BTW if you are keeping DMF, cluch chatter will be a no issue as it is SMFW which causes noises.
People say good things about DMFW + Stage 2 clutch setups, but I never ran it myself.
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      10-07-2018, 02:49 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by lightmanek View Post
I've been running BMW 335IS/550i clutch for the past 2 years.
Just replaced it after 40k miles as it was starting to slip. Great solution for anyone under 500HP as it holds power really well and it feels like stock.

BTW if you are keeping DMF, cluch chatter will be a no issue as it is SMFW which causes noises.
People say good things about DMFW + Stage 2 clutch setups, but I never ran it myself.
Thanks. I will look into that swap, I keep hearing good things, but also my DMFW feels very light compared to the Dual Mass on my IS300 lol so I may just be fine running a stage 2 clutch on the stock DMFW, unless the previous owner swapped in SMFW
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      10-07-2018, 03:07 AM   #4
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335is clutch with OEM flywheel is what you want. No chatter, smooth and precise, and can handle more power than your car can throw at it.
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      10-07-2018, 08:57 AM   #5
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Have you done the clutch delay valve delete yet? I had issues with slipping clutch in mine as well UNTIL I did the delay valve delete. Since then no issues. I am running Cobb stage 1 FMIC aggressive with zero issues now. Before it would slip on stage one without fmic.
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      10-07-2018, 05:47 PM   #6
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X2 on the 550i clutch and m3 cdv, I'm running mhd +2 with fbo and it feels factory like.
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      10-08-2018, 12:42 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by david in germany View Post
Have you done the clutch delay valve delete yet? I had issues with slipping clutch in mine as well UNTIL I did the delay valve delete. Since then no issues. I am running Cobb stage 1 FMIC aggressive with zero issues now. Before it would slip on stage one without fmic.

I havent, Idk if the previous owner did either, I will have to check, but thats a good place to start. Its weird, it slips but then it will seem to stop slipping even under what I would think is still boost. It really seems like slippage, but it still can grab sometimes, but im used to a bad clutch slipping and staying in a slip, this is odd
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      10-08-2018, 12:43 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by whyzee125 View Post
335is clutch with OEM flywheel is what you want. No chatter, smooth and precise, and can handle more power than your car can throw at it.
I will look into this swap, but is the 335is clutch a direct fit, or do I need to change anything?
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      10-08-2018, 02:47 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heisenberg93 View Post
I havent, Idk if the previous owner did either, I will have to check, but thats a good place to start. Its weird, it slips but then it will seem to stop slipping even under what I would think is still boost. It really seems like slippage, but it still can grab sometimes, but im used to a bad clutch slipping and staying in a slip, this is odd
Yep, CDV... You still have one. Get rid of it. Don't waste the cash on an "upgraded" CDV, just delete it asap.
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      10-08-2018, 03:02 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heisenberg93 View Post
Hi everyone, I was searching around and see conflicting information about stage 2 clutches and people doing swaps and chatter and so forth.. Not really having any luck answering my questions.

I have a 2007 335i E90, and when the turbos start to get boost I feel like my clutch starts to slip, so its time for a new clutch, my question is this, would a oem equivalent clutch setup be able to handle a California emissions car, which may or may not see 100 or less ft lbs of torque added through tune and bolt ons?

Or can I get a stage 2 clutch, throw it on the factory dual mass flywheel and call it a day?

I don't want the car to make anymore noise like chatter, since I have either a bad cat, or a wastegate rattle on acceleration and takeoff, and I do daily the car. (Haven't checked out the cause too much yet)

I do want something grippy, but still derivable without making a ton of noise, idk how strong the oem clutches are, but slipping is a no go for me, can't have that
The Spec Stage 2+ mated with a DMFW will have no rattle and drive similar to stock with a sporty feel.

They are rated for 545 Torque. It's good for Stock Twins and even mild Single turbo and Twin Turbo Upgrade cars.

If you plan to make over 500HP/TQ you will need a Single Mass Flywheel as the DMFW becomes imbalanced on high HP setups.

There is a lot of misuse of the word chatter and rattle. The SMFW is what causes RATTLE noises. It's sometimes refereed to as "chatter" (on these forums) but it's actually rattle noise. It sounds like loose marbles in a can.

Chatter is typically engagement chatter, kind of like wheel hop but in the clutch as it slips. These cars typically don't have chatter issues but they will rattle with a SMFW. However, if you have MHD or other flash tunes, you can raise the idle and eliminate a majority of rattle noises.
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      10-08-2018, 07:26 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heisenberg93 View Post
I will look into this swap, but is the 335is clutch a direct fit, or do I need to change anything?
Direct fit.
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      10-10-2018, 07:45 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by david in germany View Post
Yep, CDV... You still have one. Get rid of it. Don't waste the cash on an "upgraded" CDV, just delete it asap.
Yeah, it seemed like really weird behavior. I imagine its like deleting the CDD on the IS300, but I will search for the process
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      10-10-2018, 07:48 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions View Post
The Spec Stage 2+ mated with a DMFW will have no rattle and drive similar to stock with a sporty feel.

They are rated for 545 Torque. It's good for Stock Twins and even mild Single turbo and Twin Turbo Upgrade cars.

If you plan to make over 500HP/TQ you will need a Single Mass Flywheel as the DMFW becomes imbalanced on high HP setups.

There is a lot of misuse of the word chatter and rattle. The SMFW is what causes RATTLE noises. It's sometimes refereed to as "chatter" (on these forums) but it's actually rattle noise. It sounds like loose marbles in a can.

Chatter is typically engagement chatter, kind of like wheel hop but in the clutch as it slips. These cars typically don't have chatter issues but they will rattle with a SMFW. However, if you have MHD or other flash tunes, you can raise the idle and eliminate a majority of rattle noises.
Nice, do you have any brand recommendations? I'm sure its mentioned all over the forums, but I'm here, might as well ask, however someone stated the behavior indicates I still have the delay valve, I will likely delete this first before I spend money on a clutch upgrade. For CA emissions, I may not get too far past the 400tq mark, just to be able to deal with smog every 2 years
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      10-10-2018, 07:48 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whyzee125 View Post
Direct fit.
Hmm, this may be an option then, stage 2 sounds like a nice idea, but I will have to compare the pros and cons I suppose
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      10-11-2018, 01:39 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heisenberg93 View Post
Its weird, it slips but then it will seem to stop slipping even under what I would think is still boost. It really seems like slippage, but it still can grab sometimes, but im used to a bad clutch slipping and staying in a slip, this is odd
I had the same issue and it appears to not be a worn clutch but rather the pressure plate failing. I can get mine into gear and slowly accelerate, but if I WOT it slips before catching again (jumps up 1k rpm without moving before dropping back down and finally pulling). The 335i and 335is clutch both have a bad pressure plate although the 335is clutch can handle more hp. The pressure plate seems to fail around 40k miles (mine failed at 45k). Personally I got the Spec Stage 2+ for OEM dual mass flywheel (being installed as we speak). It’s over-power-rated for my performance goals, but I plan on keeping the car for a while and don’t want to swap the whole OEM clutch again in 4 years because of a pressure plate. Bonus is that Spec sells just pressure plates on their own so you can replace just that if need be.
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      10-11-2018, 10:38 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rogue-OP View Post
I had the same issue and it appears to not be a worn clutch but rather the pressure plate failing. I can get mine into gear and slowly accelerate, but if I WOT it slips before catching again (jumps up 1k rpm without moving before dropping back down and finally pulling). The 335i and 335is clutch both have a bad pressure plate although the 335is clutch can handle more hp. The pressure plate seems to fail around 40k miles (mine failed at 45k). Personally I got the Spec Stage 2+ for OEM dual mass flywheel (being installed as we speak). It’s over-power-rated for my performance goals, but I plan on keeping the car for a while and don’t want to swap the whole OEM clutch again in 4 years because of a pressure plate. Bonus is that Spec sells just pressure plates on their own so you can replace just that if need be.
Its not completely abnormal, just means that the clutch is doing something just not enough of it. Kinda like spinning the rear tires will experiencing an increase in velocity, it's grabbing just not fully.
I would make the change soon so as to not wear out or overheat your flywheel.
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      10-11-2018, 11:06 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heisenberg93 View Post
Nice, do you have any brand recommendations? I'm sure its mentioned all over the forums, but I'm here, might as well ask, however someone stated the behavior indicates I still have the delay valve, I will likely delete this first before I spend money on a clutch upgrade. For CA emissions, I may not get too far past the 400tq mark, just to be able to deal with smog every 2 years
The brand is actually called Spec. Spec Stage 2+ is what I recommended for you. The CDV Delete should be one of the first modifications to these cars for a manual.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rogue-OP View Post
I had the same issue and it appears to not be a worn clutch but rather the pressure plate failing. I can get mine into gear and slowly accelerate, but if I WOT it slips before catching again (jumps up 1k rpm without moving before dropping back down and finally pulling). The 335i and 335is clutch both have a bad pressure plate although the 335is clutch can handle more hp. The pressure plate seems to fail around 40k miles (mine failed at 45k). Personally I got the Spec Stage 2+ for OEM dual mass flywheel (being installed as we speak). It’s over-power-rated for my performance goals, but I plan on keeping the car for a while and don’t want to swap the whole OEM clutch again in 4 years because of a pressure plate. Bonus is that Spec sells just pressure plates on their own so you can replace just that if need be.
It's a bit common to see the pressure plates not being able to hold up to the torque. Good move on the Spec Stage 2+
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      10-11-2018, 05:15 PM   #18
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Update: My mechanic now had it out and my clutch was indeed messed up. 45k miles with 4 previous owners, who knows how they drove it. So not the pressure plate. Though oddly no burning clutch smell or any of the other symptoms.

Thanks to Jeff I chose the Spec Stage 2+ and bought it from him
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      10-13-2018, 02:23 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rogue-OP View Post
I had the same issue and it appears to not be a worn clutch but rather the pressure plate failing. I can get mine into gear and slowly accelerate, but if I WOT it slips before catching again (jumps up 1k rpm without moving before dropping back down and finally pulling). The 335i and 335is clutch both have a bad pressure plate although the 335is clutch can handle more hp. The pressure plate seems to fail around 40k miles (mine failed at 45k). Personally I got the Spec Stage 2+ for OEM dual mass flywheel (being installed as we speak). It’s over-power-rated for my performance goals, but I plan on keeping the car for a while and don’t want to swap the whole OEM clutch again in 4 years because of a pressure plate. Bonus is that Spec sells just pressure plates on their own so you can replace just that if need be.
Nice, I might do this, let me know how you like the drive and everything once it's in
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      10-13-2018, 02:26 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions View Post
The brand is actually called Spec. Spec Stage 2+ is what I recommended for you. The CDV Delete should be one of the first modifications to these cars for a manual.


It's a bit common to see the pressure plates not being able to hold up to the torque. Good move on the Spec Stage 2+
Thanks, and yeah I was gonna pull the CDV off this weekend but the moment I parked after getting home from work yesterday, the engine started billowing out steam from all sides of the hood, so I looked for a bursted hose/tank, couldn't find anything, so took it to a mechanic and I may have a blown head gasket guess I'll just die now
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      10-13-2018, 02:33 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heisenberg93 View Post
Thanks, and yeah I was gonna pull the CDV off this weekend but the moment I parked after getting home from work yesterday, the engine started billowing out steam from all sides of the hood, so I looked for a bursted hose/tank, couldn't find anything, so took it to a mechanic and I may have a blown head gasket guess I'll just die now
Head gasket is highly unlikely.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Rogue-OP View Post
Update: My mechanic now had it out and my clutch was indeed messed up. 45k miles with 4 previous owners, who knows how they drove it. So not the pressure plate. Though oddly no burning clutch smell or any of the other symptoms.

Thanks to Jeff I chose the Spec Stage 2+ and bought it from him

You're welcome. Enjoy!
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      10-15-2018, 10:38 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heisenberg93 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions View Post
The brand is actually called Spec. Spec Stage 2+ is what I recommended for you. The CDV Delete should be one of the first modifications to these cars for a manual.


It's a bit common to see the pressure plates not being able to hold up to the torque. Good move on the Spec Stage 2+
Thanks, and yeah I was gonna pull the CDV off this weekend but the moment I parked after getting home from work yesterday, the engine started billowing out steam from all sides of the hood, so I looked for a bursted hose/tank, couldn't find anything, so took it to a mechanic and I may have a blown head gasket guess I'll just die now
Did you find out what the issue was ?
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