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335i Clutch Upgrades? Conflicting info, Stage 2
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10-05-2018, 11:00 PM | #1 |
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335i Clutch Upgrades? Conflicting info, Stage 2
Hi everyone, I was searching around and see conflicting information about stage 2 clutches and people doing swaps and chatter and so forth.. Not really having any luck answering my questions.
I have a 2007 335i E90, and when the turbos start to get boost I feel like my clutch starts to slip, so its time for a new clutch, my question is this, would a oem equivalent clutch setup be able to handle a California emissions car, which may or may not see 100 or less ft lbs of torque added through tune and bolt ons? Or can I get a stage 2 clutch, throw it on the factory dual mass flywheel and call it a day? I don't want the car to make anymore noise like chatter, since I have either a bad cat, or a wastegate rattle on acceleration and takeoff, and I do daily the car. (Haven't checked out the cause too much yet) I do want something grippy, but still derivable without making a ton of noise, idk how strong the oem clutches are, but slipping is a no go for me, can't have that |
10-06-2018, 01:17 AM | #2 |
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I've been running BMW 335IS/550i clutch for the past 2 years.
Just replaced it after 40k miles as it was starting to slip. Great solution for anyone under 500HP as it holds power really well and it feels like stock. BTW if you are keeping DMF, cluch chatter will be a no issue as it is SMFW which causes noises. People say good things about DMFW + Stage 2 clutch setups, but I never ran it myself. |
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10-07-2018, 02:49 AM | #3 | |
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10-07-2018, 03:07 AM | #4 |
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335is clutch with OEM flywheel is what you want. No chatter, smooth and precise, and can handle more power than your car can throw at it.
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10-07-2018, 08:57 AM | #5 |
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Have you done the clutch delay valve delete yet? I had issues with slipping clutch in mine as well UNTIL I did the delay valve delete. Since then no issues. I am running Cobb stage 1 FMIC aggressive with zero issues now. Before it would slip on stage one without fmic.
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10-08-2018, 12:42 PM | #7 | |
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I havent, Idk if the previous owner did either, I will have to check, but thats a good place to start. Its weird, it slips but then it will seem to stop slipping even under what I would think is still boost. It really seems like slippage, but it still can grab sometimes, but im used to a bad clutch slipping and staying in a slip, this is odd |
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10-08-2018, 12:43 PM | #8 |
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10-08-2018, 02:47 PM | #9 | |
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2009 118i Monaco Blue "Maximillion"
2009 335i Saphire Black M Sport "Leopold" Cobb stage 2 aggressive tune, Mishimoto FMIC, Cobb charge pipe, Cobb catted down pipes, Forge diverter valves, BMS inlets and DCI, Cyba scoops and M Individual Audio retrofit and M3 gauge cluster retrofit. 2011 328i Titan Silver M Sport "Franzel" <--Wife's car |
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10-08-2018, 03:02 PM | #10 | |
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They are rated for 545 Torque. It's good for Stock Twins and even mild Single turbo and Twin Turbo Upgrade cars. If you plan to make over 500HP/TQ you will need a Single Mass Flywheel as the DMFW becomes imbalanced on high HP setups. There is a lot of misuse of the word chatter and rattle. The SMFW is what causes RATTLE noises. It's sometimes refereed to as "chatter" (on these forums) but it's actually rattle noise. It sounds like loose marbles in a can. Chatter is typically engagement chatter, kind of like wheel hop but in the clutch as it slips. These cars typically don't have chatter issues but they will rattle with a SMFW. However, if you have MHD or other flash tunes, you can raise the idle and eliminate a majority of rattle noises. |
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10-08-2018, 07:26 PM | #11 |
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10-10-2018, 07:45 PM | #12 |
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10-10-2018, 07:48 PM | #13 | |
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10-10-2018, 07:48 PM | #14 |
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10-11-2018, 01:39 AM | #15 |
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I had the same issue and it appears to not be a worn clutch but rather the pressure plate failing. I can get mine into gear and slowly accelerate, but if I WOT it slips before catching again (jumps up 1k rpm without moving before dropping back down and finally pulling). The 335i and 335is clutch both have a bad pressure plate although the 335is clutch can handle more hp. The pressure plate seems to fail around 40k miles (mine failed at 45k). Personally I got the Spec Stage 2+ for OEM dual mass flywheel (being installed as we speak). It’s over-power-rated for my performance goals, but I plan on keeping the car for a while and don’t want to swap the whole OEM clutch again in 4 years because of a pressure plate. Bonus is that Spec sells just pressure plates on their own so you can replace just that if need be.
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10-11-2018, 10:38 AM | #16 | |
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I would make the change soon so as to not wear out or overheat your flywheel.
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6MT*Sport Package*Factory Location VRSF Inlets/Outlets*VRSF 7"HD IC & DCIs*FTP Low Temp Oil cooler Thermostat*VRSF DP & 335is Mufflers*Turbosmart Diverters*Custom Tune*550 Clutch & Delay Valve Removed*e93 M3 FSB*Custom Seeping Oil Pan |
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10-11-2018, 11:06 AM | #17 | ||
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10-11-2018, 05:15 PM | #18 |
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Update: My mechanic now had it out and my clutch was indeed messed up. 45k miles with 4 previous owners, who knows how they drove it. So not the pressure plate. Though oddly no burning clutch smell or any of the other symptoms.
Thanks to Jeff I chose the Spec Stage 2+ and bought it from him
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10-13-2018, 02:23 PM | #19 | |
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10-13-2018, 02:26 PM | #20 | |
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10-13-2018, 02:33 PM | #21 | ||
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10-15-2018, 10:38 AM | #22 | ||
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