[lwgrenier]

Originally Posted by Emilime75

Wouldn't there be signs of problems before seizure? Let's say enough coolant did mix with the oil and the oil broke down. This doesn't happen instantly, neither do engines seize instantly. This thing would've been knocking like crazy before it finally gave up.

My engine was running fine before I brought it in for the OFHG and for the few minutes I was driving before it seized. I took good care of it. Was under moderate normal acceleration and engine shut off. I didn't feel the car shutter or hear anything prior to it happening.

[SnapCoupe]

Originally Posted by lwgrenier

The thing that puzzles me about what happened is there was no indication anything was wrong other than the engine shutting off. No CEL or oil pressure warning. It took a few unsuccessful tries at restarting it (didn’t crank or turn over at all) until the CEL finally came on.

Originally Posted by lwgrenier

My engine was running fine before I brought it in for the OFHG and for the few minutes I was driving before it seized. I took good care of it. Was under moderate normal acceleration and engine shut off. I didn't feel the car shutter or hear anything prior to it happening.

When my rod bearings went out there was no prior warnings or signs, the engine was running fantastic all the way up until the point it wasn't. The car was under moderate acceleration and I felt something similar to a misfire or slight hesitation. I was doing about 50MPH at this time, and I noticed the car had no power, but was still responding to throttle inputs. As soon as I pressed the clutch in, the RPMs dropped to zero and I coasted to the side of the road. The car wouldn't turn over for another half hour or so, and the only codes I saw were a few voltage/power management faults. Drove the car in after it started back up and it felt like it drove 100% normal. Only when I was parking could I hear the knock which was only audible at 2000-2400 RPM. When we pulled the oil filter, it was full of copper shavings.

What color was the metal in your oil? Was it silver-y or more copper/bronze like?

[Pladi]

Originally Posted by vespa

That's not the whole story. First, there are many places that coolant can leak directly into the crankcase which ranges from 0psi to slight vacuum. Second, oil pressure instantly goes to 0 when the engine stops but coolant can remain near max pressure for an hour or more, so even in places where gaskets are separating pressurized oil from pressurized coolant, it's possible for the breach to be small enough that only the low viscosity coolant can pass once the engine is off.

Yes but will that amount of coolant seize the engine within minutes of driving ?? Thats impossible ... So thats not the case here. If you believe that some coolant in the oil will seize the engine within minutes i mean thats very far fetched scenario.

[Pladi]

Originally Posted by SnapCoupe

When my rod bearings went out there was no prior warnings or signs, the engine was running fantastic all the way up until the point it wasn't. The car was under moderate acceleration and I felt something similar to a misfire or slight hesitation. I was doing about 50MPH at this time, and I noticed the car had no power, but was still responding to throttle inputs. As soon as I pressed the clutch in, the RPMs dropped to zero and I coasted to the side of the road. The car wouldn't turn over for another half hour or so, and the only codes I saw were a few voltage/power management faults. Drove the car in after it started back up and it felt like it drove 100% normal. Only when I was parking could I hear the knock which was only audible at 2000-2400 RPM. When we pulled the oil filter, it was full of copper shavings.

What color was the metal in your oil? Was it silver-y or more copper/bronze like?

This is very different from what OP experienced... So i dont see why we are comparing the two.. Also please read his explanation. He said no oil shavings..

[Pladi]

Originally Posted by lwgrenier

My engine was running fine before I brought it in for the OFHG and for the few minutes I was driving before it seized. I took good care of it. Was under moderate normal acceleration and engine shut off. I didn't feel the car shutter or hear anything prior to it happening.

I would have someone who knows these cars examine your engine. You engine might not have experience catastrophic failure... could be maybe a sensor . Try to turn the engine over yourself. Without using a starter. Do your own investigations as well.

[lwgrenier]

Originally Posted by SnapCoupe

When my rod bearings went out there was no prior warnings or signs, the engine was running fantastic all the way up until the point it wasn't. The car was under moderate acceleration and I felt something similar to a misfire or slight hesitation. I was doing about 50MPH at this time, and I noticed the car had no power, but was still responding to throttle inputs. As soon as I pressed the clutch in, the RPMs dropped to zero and I coasted to the side of the road. The car wouldn't turn over for another half hour or so, and the only codes I saw were a few voltage/power management faults. Drove the car in after it started back up and it felt like it drove 100% normal. Only when I was parking could I hear the knock which was only audible at 2000-2400 RPM. When we pulled the oil filter, it was full of copper shavings.

What color was the metal in your oil? Was it silver-y or more copper/bronze like?

Originally Posted by Pladi

This is very different from what OP experienced... So i dont see why we are comparing the two.. Also please read his explanation. He said no oil shavings..

Yeah no metal shavings in the oil. At this point I'm trying to figure out if I should pay for the engine to be torn down to see if just the bearings could be replaced, or just buy a used engine. I have an aftermarket warranty that would theoretically cover it if it was due to rod or crank bearing failure, but I'm confident they'd try and weasel out of it. Also was trying to sell the car because I'm moving to Boston so hey, maybe just sell as is?

[lwgrenier]

Originally Posted by Pladi

I would have someone who knows these cars examine your engine. You engine might not have experience catastrophic failure... could be maybe a sensor . Try to turn the engine over yourself. Without using a starter. Do your own investigations as well.

My mechanic tried to manually turn it and it wouldn't budge. But yeah I'm looking for people in the NH area that have a lot of experience with BMWs. Unfortunately they're few and far between around here.

[Pladi]

Originally Posted by lwgrenier

My mechanic tried to manually turn it and it wouldn't budge. But yeah I'm looking for people in the NH area that have a lot of experience with BMWs. Unfortunately they're few and far between around here.

If you were in Ontario Canada i would come to see your car. Very interested in this failure.

[9krpmrx8]

Man, post up on the facebook groups, see if there is a reputable BMW mechanic in your area with engine building experience. You can als contact Ghassan automotive, the only do BMW engines and maybe they can work something out under your warranty. You would have to pull the engine though which depending on your skill level might be a huge issue.

https://www.facebook.com/GhassanAuto/?ref=br_rs

[SnapCoupe]

Originally Posted by Pladi

This is very different from what OP experienced... So i dont see why we are comparing the two.. Also please read his explanation. He said no oil shavings..

Originally Posted by lwgrenier

Yeah no metal shavings in the oil. At this point I'm trying to figure out if I should pay for the engine to be torn down to see if just the bearings could be replaced, or just buy a used engine. I have an aftermarket warranty that would theoretically cover it if it was due to rod or crank bearing failure, but I'm confident they'd try and weasel out of it. Also was trying to sell the car because I'm moving to Boston so hey, maybe just sell as is?

My bad, I thought I read that there was shavings in there, must've been a different post. I would try to work with the warranty company and see what they say first. If anything they could at least help pay to investigate the motor further. If you sell it as is, its not going to be worth anything unfortunately (went through this decision as well).

[MartinWake]

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

Okay but if you had money shifted a few seconds ago how can you not think anymore it's due to that. It surely is related to that.

When had you changed the OFHG?

I had it changed 10 min before using the car but trust me what if felt like did not feel like it was related to the down shift I was cruising at about 25mph when it happened

[MartinWake]

Originally Posted by Pladi

I would have someone who knows these cars examine your engine. You engine might not have experience catastrophic failure... could be maybe a sensor . Try to turn the engine over yourself. Without using a starter. Do your own investigations as well.

I tried to turn over the engine myself in my case and its stuck there I will take it tomorrow to get opened up ill see what I find

[DriveBikeRun]

Question for those more knowledgeable about the direction of oil flow: from the area of the OFHG repair, does the oil flow to the filter or the engine first?

If it flows to the engine first, that would increase the plausibility of the foreign material clogging passages theory. That theory also seems to line up with the seemingly instant failures without warning, no overheating, no prior knocking, etc.

Granted, I have not performed the OFHG job yet on my car, but does the old gasket usually come off cleanly or require scraping off the gasket in chunks?

[fatty335]

Originally Posted by DriveBikeRun

Question for those more knowledgeable about the direction of oil flow: from the area of the OFHG repair, does the oil flow to the filter or the engine first?

If it flows to the engine first, that would increase the plausibility of the foreign material clogging passages theory. That theory also seems to line up with the seemingly instant failures without warning, no overheating, no prior knocking, etc.

Granted, I have not performed the OFHG job yet on my car, but does the old gasket usually come off cleanly or require scraping off the gasket in chunks?

Yes, you are exposing a filtered oil passage when you remove the OFH so there is an opportunity to drop foreign matter/coolant/etc. into an area where it could make it to a bearing. I've done two gasket changes and, in my experience, the gasket comes out in 1 piece.

[Pladi]

Originally Posted by fatty335

Yes, you are exposing a filtered oil passage when you remove the OFH so there is an opportunity to drop foreign matter/coolant/etc. into an area where it could make it to a bearing. I've done two gasket changes and, in my experience, the gasket comes out in 1 piece.

I too agree with all this. Gasket comes in one piece, return and send lines for oil both exposed.

My thought of when this might be happening is if you have alot of dirt and debris on top of the housing when yo seperate it from the block it might fall in at that moment. Clean the surrounding area before you seperate the housing from the block.

I have done this procedure two times. The oil passages are like 5mm in diameter if that. It doesn't take much i think.

[Emilime75]

It's rubber, so it should come out in one piece, however, if it's really old it could have been cracked/rotted and crumbled. Also, no way of telling what happened while things were opened up. Debris form outside the engine could have fallen in, like leaves/dirt/gravel...if the shop doing the work didn't blow the area out with compressed air, something could've fallen in.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Oh wow didn't know it was filtered/clean oil passage there.

Next time I'll do it I'll cover everything with shop towels after removing the housing from the car.

If my engine didn't blow/seize after 1200 miles I'm good right haha? This thread is giving me paranoia, even tho I have a N54.

[Pladi]

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

Oh wow didn't know it was filtered/clean oil passage there.

Next time I'll do it I'll cover everything with shop towels after removing the housing from the car.

If my engine didn't blow/seize after 1200 miles I'm good right haha? This thread is giving me paranoia, even tho I have a N54.

Dude you have to chill hahha. Half your threads are all paranoia

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by Pladi

Dude you have to chill hahha. Half your threads are all paranoia

Maan I know haha.

Just want my car to last 5 years without it needing a major fix like engine or transmission. The rest I am ok with.

[Pladi]

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

Maan I know haha.

Just want my car to last 5 years without it needing a major fix like engine or transmission. The rest I am ok with.

I hear you man. I feel the same. Its all good.

[fatty335]

OP - just out of curiosity, what is the build date of your car?

[lwgrenier]

Originally Posted by fatty335

OP - just out of curiosity, what is the build date of your car?

02/2011