Replacing VC/VCG currently

PortDover335xi · 07-16-2019, 05:28 PM

This afternoon I started the work to replace the VC/VCG. I bought a genuine BMW gasket in case the VC isn't cracked like so many have said. I have an aftermarket cover w/ gasket just in case. I used the ECS tuning file which I found really helpful.

One thing I found difficult was pulling the two vacuum lines at the front of the VC. They were on there pretty good, didn't want to risk breaking them so I took my time. Taking off the fuel lines was actually pretty quick and easy which I was most concerned about. I did remove the negative battery terminal to be safe.

I had to pause and take a break actually taking the cover off, on daddy duty for a few hours, will do the rest tonight.

When I pulled the ignition coils a few of them were soaked in oil at the tip so I'm really glad doing the job today. Also going to replace the plugs during the change. Also the spark plug sleeves were a bit of a pain in the butt as well. I'll update when the job is done let you guys know how it went

PortDover335xi · 07-16-2019, 08:26 PM

Any suggestions what to do after I broke one of the bolts on the valve cover? It's right at the front of the cover, low side. Was rusty and not in good shape. Do I have to drill it out? Any other ideas?

mweisdorfer · 07-16-2019, 08:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PortDover335xi

Any suggestions what to do after I broke one of the bolts on the valve cover? It's right at the front of the cover, low side. Was rusty and not in good shape. Do I have to drill it out? Any other ideas?

Get a spline set made by Irwin. Take it out that way.

You will then have to tap the hole most likely.

Irwin Tools Hanson 53227 Hex Head Multi-Spline Screw Extractor Set, 25 Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SRG66..._taOlDbBHG19GD

Emilime75 · 07-16-2019, 09:43 PM

Have you gotten the cover off yet? Is any portion of the bolt sticking out? Might get lucky and be able to grab it with some needle nose vice grips. Otherwise, yes, you'll have to drill it. I'd first try to drill a small hole in the center of the bolt, then try an extractor. That's your best chance of saving the threads in the head. If you step up the drill bit, or end up off center or crooked, you'll damage the threads. If that happens, your next step would be to drill it out completely, and re-tap new threads, at which point you'll need a different size/thread pitch bolt, depending on what bit and tap you use. If you do manage to get the bolt out without damaging the original thread, I'd run the correct tap through it anyway to try and clean up any corrosion on it in an effort to keep the new bolt from seizing up again. Use lots of lubricant while doing any of the above, she'll thank you for it...and be super careful not to get any shavings into the head. Tape up the area around it.

Also, those vacuum lines you struggled with, replace them. In fact, take the opportunity to replace them all. Buy roughly 15' of silicone hose with a 3.5mm ID. You'll likely have about 2-3' left over.

It's a good idea to go ahead and replace the valve cover while you're at it. It does more than just keep oil in/dirt out. The PCV system is integrated into it and those passages tend to clog up with build up, a lot like the valves do on this motor. I'd also suggest going with an OEM cover/gasket/bolt set.

PortDover335xi · 07-16-2019, 10:08 PM

Got the cover off just now, there is barely any of the bolt sticking out. I'm going to my local hardware/automotive store to try the first step. I really hope I can get it without drilling the hole out. Original VCG didn't look all that bad but there's a ton of oil in the spark plug holes. Glad I'm changing it. I've got 5 feet of vacuum line already, enough to replace those pesky lines I was pulling on

Emilime75 · 07-16-2019, 10:16 PM

See if you can file a little flat spot on whatever is sticking out, then use a punch to set a dimple to keep the drill bit from wandering off center.

07-16-2019, 05:28 PM	#1
PortDover335xi Private 14 Rep 77 Posts Drives: 2010 335xi coupe Join Date: Feb 2019 Location: Port dover iTrader: (0)	Replacing VC/VCG currently This afternoon I started the work to replace the VC/VCG. I bought a genuine BMW gasket in case the VC isn't cracked like so many have said. I have an aftermarket cover w/ gasket just in case. I used the ECS tuning file which I found really helpful. One thing I found difficult was pulling the two vacuum lines at the front of the VC. They were on there pretty good, didn't want to risk breaking them so I took my time. Taking off the fuel lines was actually pretty quick and easy which I was most concerned about. I did remove the negative battery terminal to be safe. I had to pause and take a break actually taking the cover off, on daddy duty for a few hours, will do the rest tonight. When I pulled the ignition coils a few of them were soaked in oil at the tip so I'm really glad doing the job today. Also going to replace the plugs during the change. Also the spark plug sleeves were a bit of a pain in the butt as well. I'll update when the job is done let you guys know how it went
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07-16-2019, 08:26 PM	#2
PortDover335xi Private 14 Rep 77 Posts Drives: 2010 335xi coupe Join Date: Feb 2019 Location: Port dover iTrader: (0)	Any suggestions what to do after I broke one of the bolts on the valve cover? It's right at the front of the cover, low side. Was rusty and not in good shape. Do I have to drill it out? Any other ideas?
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07-16-2019, 09:43 PM	#4
Emilime75 Colonel 1209 Rep 2,476 Posts Drives: 2010 335i E92 LeMans Blue Join Date: Dec 2017 Location: Merica! iTrader: (1)	Have you gotten the cover off yet? Is any portion of the bolt sticking out? Might get lucky and be able to grab it with some needle nose vice grips. Otherwise, yes, you'll have to drill it. I'd first try to drill a small hole in the center of the bolt, then try an extractor. That's your best chance of saving the threads in the head. If you step up the drill bit, or end up off center or crooked, you'll damage the threads. If that happens, your next step would be to drill it out completely, and re-tap new threads, at which point you'll need a different size/thread pitch bolt, depending on what bit and tap you use. If you do manage to get the bolt out without damaging the original thread, I'd run the correct tap through it anyway to try and clean up any corrosion on it in an effort to keep the new bolt from seizing up again. Use lots of lubricant while doing any of the above, she'll thank you for it...and be super careful not to get any shavings into the head. Tape up the area around it. Also, those vacuum lines you struggled with, replace them. In fact, take the opportunity to replace them all. Buy roughly 15' of silicone hose with a 3.5mm ID. You'll likely have about 2-3' left over. It's a good idea to go ahead and replace the valve cover while you're at it. It does more than just keep oil in/dirt out. The PCV system is integrated into it and those passages tend to clog up with build up, a lot like the valves do on this motor. I'd also suggest going with an OEM cover/gasket/bolt set.
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07-16-2019, 10:08 PM	#5
PortDover335xi Private 14 Rep 77 Posts Drives: 2010 335xi coupe Join Date: Feb 2019 Location: Port dover iTrader: (0)	Got the cover off just now, there is barely any of the bolt sticking out. I'm going to my local hardware/automotive store to try the first step. I really hope I can get it without drilling the hole out. Original VCG didn't look all that bad but there's a ton of oil in the spark plug holes. Glad I'm changing it. I've got 5 feet of vacuum line already, enough to replace those pesky lines I was pulling on
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07-16-2019, 10:16 PM	#6
Emilime75 Colonel 1209 Rep 2,476 Posts Drives: 2010 335i E92 LeMans Blue Join Date: Dec 2017 Location: Merica! iTrader: (1)	See if you can file a little flat spot on whatever is sticking out, then use a punch to set a dimple to keep the drill bit from wandering off center.
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