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      03-15-2020, 02:19 PM   #1
HydroxFrost
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Question Random Hesitation / Misfire

Hi, I'm fairly new here. I've read a lot of posts about this as its a very common issue with N5x motors. Bit of a weird story here, anyway. My brother bought an e90 330i about a year ago, I tried helping him work on it as I had general knowledge on cars but not specifically bmws. He had a misfire on cylinder 6 code, and some maf sensor codes. Back then, we unplugged the maf sensor and threw in a new air filter and the misfire code never came back after we cleared it. He recently told me that it always had a slight hesitation or slipping feeling.

Anyway fastforward to now, I bought the car from my brother in september and it seemed to drive perfectly fine without the maf sensor. I changed the oil immediately after getting it and it gave me no issues for a while. I installed a silicone boot (intake resonator delete pipe) and it seems to have started to hesitate ever since. I made sure the intake was tightly sealed, and I even bought a maf from someone parting out their n52 330xi which threw the same codes. I noticed upon plugging in the maf I got a new code (P1415) and it gave me the same fault codes (P0103, P111F, P0113) as the old maf, so I'm thinking the wiring for the maf might be bad or its reading low voltage because of the vacuum leaks.

My available options:
- Buy a brand new maf
- Clean the vanos non-return valves
- Replace literally EVERY vacuum line on the car
- Replace the spark plugs even though it says they have 70,000 km left
- Replace the cylinder 6 coil (would rather not put forth the money for all 6)
- Replace the fuel pump
- Clean or replace the injectors
- Sell the car

What I've done so far:
- Oil change
- Purchased but not installed new spark plugs
- Replaced the oil filter housing gasket
- Ordered a new oil cap as it seems to be losing oil from the current one
- Tried both maf sensors I have
- Capped off the broken vacuum line that goes back to the exhaust flap

Anyone have any suggestions? Any help would be much appreicated, sorry for the novel

Edit: The hesitation happens at low RPM, it seems more or less fine when I floor it. Fuel consumption has been pretty high, but seems to have gotten higher since replacing the oil filter housing gasket and capping off the vacuum line. There is no oil in the spark plug wells, and my valve cover gasket itself seems fine. There is no ridiculous vacuum when I take off the oil cap while its running so I think my ccv is fine?
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      03-15-2020, 03:21 PM   #2
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Ever serviced the transmission ? How many miles on the car? There is a known of TCC slipping when trans fluid is old.
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      03-15-2020, 07:01 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NinetyEight740 View Post
Ever serviced the transmission ? How many miles on the car? There is a known of TCC slipping when trans fluid is old.
I haven't serviced the transmission. There's about 180k miles on the car. Should I just replace the pan and fluid, or does it need mechatronic seals and solenoids as well? Transmission is a pretty expensive job and I'm really hoping it has nothing to do with it. It shifts fairly smooth up and down it just has the hesitation issues.
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      03-16-2020, 08:22 AM   #4
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Look underneath and see whether you have a gm or Zf transmission
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      03-16-2020, 10:31 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by NinetyEight740 View Post
Look underneath and see whether you have a gm or Zf transmission
Im pretty sure I have a ZF 6HP19 transmission
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      03-16-2020, 07:37 PM   #6
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https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1304563
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      03-17-2020, 12:18 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PhaseP View Post
We were concerned about the maf sensor wiring as the car I bought the maf from had no codes, so I will try this maybe. Thank you!
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      03-18-2020, 07:37 AM   #8
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I had something similar and it turned out to be vanos solenoids. Vanos fault codes didn't come up but MAF did. I would take to bmw to read all possible fault codes and they can lead you in the right direction. Also get a smoke test done to find possible vacuum leaks, it could very well be some leak in the system.
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      03-19-2020, 06:04 AM   #9
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My advice would be to find an indy with full BMW diagnostic kit and get your car fully diagnosed (the best software will do this with the engine runnng). Otherwise you will be spending good money after bad, replacing random parts in the hope you strike lucky.

It worked for me. I had a similar random hesitation that I couldn't solve. The diagnostic detected a fault with the low pressure fuel pump control unit, replacement of which solved it. I'd never have stumbled on that as a cause without the diagnosis.

Just my five cents...
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      03-20-2020, 07:32 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HydroxFrost View Post
Hi, I'm fairly new here. I've read a lot of posts about this as its a very common issue with N5x motors. Bit of a weird story here, anyway. My brother bought an e90 330i about a year ago, I tried helping him work on it as I had general knowledge on cars but not specifically bmws. He had a misfire on cylinder 6 code, and some maf sensor codes. Back then, we unplugged the maf sensor and threw in a new air filter and the misfire code never came back after we cleared it. He recently told me that it always had a slight hesitation or slipping feeling.

Anyway fastforward to now, I bought the car from my brother in september and it seemed to drive perfectly fine without the maf sensor. I changed the oil immediately after getting it and it gave me no issues for a while. I installed a silicone boot (intake resonator delete pipe) and it seems to have started to hesitate ever since. I made sure the intake was tightly sealed, and I even bought a maf from someone parting out their n52 330xi which threw the same codes. I noticed upon plugging in the maf I got a new code (P1415) and it gave me the same fault codes (P0103, P111F, P0113) as the old maf, so I'm thinking the wiring for the maf might be bad or its reading low voltage because of the vacuum leaks.

My available options:
- Buy a brand new maf
- Clean the vanos non-return valves
- Replace literally EVERY vacuum line on the car
- Replace the spark plugs even though it says they have 70,000 km left
- Replace the cylinder 6 coil (would rather not put forth the money for all 6)
- Replace the fuel pump
- Clean or replace the injectors
- Sell the car

What I've done so far:
- Oil change
- Purchased but not installed new spark plugs
- Replaced the oil filter housing gasket
- Ordered a new oil cap as it seems to be losing oil from the current one
- Tried both maf sensors I have
- Capped off the broken vacuum line that goes back to the exhaust flap

Anyone have any suggestions? Any help would be much appreicated, sorry for the novel

Edit: The hesitation happens at low RPM, it seems more or less fine when I floor it. Fuel consumption has been pretty high, but seems to have gotten higher since replacing the oil filter housing gasket and capping off the vacuum line. There is no oil in the spark plug wells, and my valve cover gasket itself seems fine. There is no ridiculous vacuum when I take off the oil cap while its running so I think my ccv is fine?
Check your disa valves. You have 330i with 3 stage intake. Disa valves tend to brake off and can lodge in one of the cylinders causing misfire.

Also, change your plugs and coils.
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      03-28-2020, 12:27 PM   #11
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Sorry for the lack of response, I appreciate the suggestions. I swapped out my plugs yesterday and it took away most of the hesitation, and restored a lot of power. I'm gonna check out my DISA valves when I get a chance to because I don't want to cause a catastrophic failure. Although while I was doing my spark plugs I noticed what I'm assuming is the ccv hose seems to be pretty torn up, would this cause a vacuum or oil leak and how much of a pain is it to replace?
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      03-28-2020, 04:56 PM   #12
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Gees that looks absolutely butchered! Replace the hose!

Usually you'd want at least matching coils and plugs in cyl 1-3 and 4-6. Ideally 6 of the same of everything.
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      03-29-2020, 10:38 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juld0zer View Post
Gees that looks absolutely butchered! Replace the hose!

Usually you'd want at least matching coils and plugs in cyl 1-3 and 4-6. Ideally 6 of the same of everything.
Yea, I thought it looked pretty messed up. Would I likely have to replace the entire CCV system? Given the mileage I'm almost certain the original CCV has failed and been replaced before I owned it. I heard they usually don't go bad again after the first replacement.
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      04-01-2020, 06:35 AM   #14
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Depends if you go with genuine parts or OE. If OE then I'd be more inclined to invest the savings into a full replacement of everything. If genuine then just replace the obviously broken parts piece by piece. Just depends if you are doing the repair or paying someone else to do it. For the same labour, it might be worth replacing the lot
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