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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Wash, Wax, Detailing and Cosmetic protection/repairs > Ask a Professional Detailer...



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      05-16-2017, 12:43 PM   #1871
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Originally Posted by Detailed Image View Post
Yes - the sooner the better!

-Zach
thanks Zach--ordering some DI products and will work on it.
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      05-16-2017, 02:02 PM   #1872
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After I wash my car, often through a touch-less car wash, I usually wash my outside windows with window cleaner.
Is this a good method or should I leave the wax on there to build up?
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      05-17-2017, 08:41 AM   #1873
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Originally Posted by NoGuru View Post
After I wash my car, often through a touch-less car wash, I usually wash my outside windows with window cleaner.
Is this a good method or should I leave the wax on there to build up?
The "wax" sprayed on the car via a touch less car wash is not something that is particularly durable. It will make no difference if you leave it on your glass or not in my opinion.
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      06-01-2017, 11:31 AM   #1874
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In between annual trips to the detail person, I usually visit my local wash bay and spray down the car. I never use the wash brush as I want to avoid swirl marks on my freshly resprayed front end. The result is a fine layer of grime that is never really washed away.

Is there a product that I can spray on while using the power washer at the car wash that will actually get the car clean and not leave behind dirt while I spot dry the car?
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      06-01-2017, 12:23 PM   #1875
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In between annual trips to the detail person, I usually visit my local wash bay and spray down the car. I never use the wash brush as I want to avoid swirl marks on my freshly resprayed front end. The result is a fine layer of grime that is never really washed away.

Is there a product that I can spray on while using the power washer at the car wash that will actually get the car clean and not leave behind dirt while I spot dry the car?
Unfortunately there is no way to completely clean your vehicle without touching it... so no, there are no products that you can simply spray on the car prior to pressure washing that will enable you to remove all of the dirt.

If you are unable to perform a traditional hand wash, here are your options...

What you need to do is, after pressure washing and rinsing the vehicle with the spot-free rinse, use a quick detailer, waterless wash, or rinseless washing product to properly remove the remaining dirt from the surface of the paint. A waterless wash is your best option if you're going to the local car wash...

In this video, I go over a quick review of CarPro EcH2O Waterless wash and how to properly use a waterless wash.



Waterless washes provide considerably more cleaning power and lubrication than a traditional quick detailer, which is why I personally recommend this as the best choice for cleaning your vehicle without buckets of water and/or hoses.

Let me know if you've got any questions!

-Zach
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      06-06-2017, 07:53 PM   #1876
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To any of you that have headlight restoration experience, what grit sandpaper should I start with based on the pics. My headlights on my 2006 330i need some TLC.

Thoughts on what I should start with? 600? 800? 1000?

Thanks.
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      06-06-2017, 08:24 PM   #1877
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Those look exceptionally bad.

I would say 600 is a safe bet... but you may want to start as 400 and work your way up to 2000-3000 grit making sure you have completely removed all of the sanding marks from the previous step before moving on to the next one.

Then compound and polish.

Follow the steps outlined in this article...
Restore Your Heavily Oxidized Headlights by Kevin George

Post some before/after pictures!!!!
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      06-06-2017, 08:37 PM   #1878
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Thank you for the response. Yeah, they are pretty bad, but wasn't sure how far to go down on the grit! Yup, planning on going through the whole process! I'll post before and after when I'm done. Thanks.
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      10-13-2018, 08:33 AM   #1879
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Xzilon Green

Has anyone had any experience with Xzilon Green sealer? A friend gave me a can to try.

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      10-27-2018, 01:14 PM   #1880
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I have some engine bay matte black plastic parts that have been scratched. Is there a way to polish out the scratches or another method to remove them without making the part shiny? This is an example of the finish on the parts I am talking about. Thanks! Jeff
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      10-31-2018, 06:49 AM   #1881
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Originally Posted by MILLER335I View Post
I have some engine bay matte black plastic parts that have been scratched. Is there a way to polish out the scratches or another method to remove them without making the part shiny? This is an example of the finish on the parts I am talking about. Thanks! Jeff
Do some light sanding or repaint.
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      05-19-2019, 10:08 PM   #1882
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Hello, can someone suggest an easy to use quick dealer? I found a can of FW1 in my garage and used it and it got it cleaned and gave a wax like shine afterwards.

Looking for something way better but want something that that is ez to apply and use and give out a nice wax gloss shine.
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      05-20-2019, 07:27 AM   #1883
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vincedea View Post
Hello, can someone suggest an easy to use quick dealer? I found a can of FW1 in my garage and used it and it got it cleaned and gave a wax like shine afterwards.

Looking for something way better but want something that that is ez to apply and use and give out a nice wax gloss shine.
I am currently using No Rinse, and buy it by the gallon and mix it with 50/50 water. Works pretty well.
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      07-11-2019, 11:27 AM   #1884
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Bird Crap hurt my clear coat

I just noticed that bird crap was on the hood of my dark blue X3. I cleaned off the crap and noticed that the clear coat has been damaged. I tried Mother's car wax and scratch removerl to no avail.

Does anyone have any other possible solutions.

HELP

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      02-01-2020, 08:48 PM   #1885
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I clay my car once a month. Is that too much?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Detailed Image View Post
Great questions and thank you for the positive feedback.

I am a big fan of claying a new vehicle, I recently responded to the poll posted on claying a new vehicle so I'll copy over my response.



To really maximize your results with detailing, knowing about the proper process and techniques will take you further than the products you are using. Once you understand what each step of the process is trying to achieve and how to do it correctly, you can properly decide on which products will best fit your needs, budget and most importantly, meet your detailing objectives.

In my eyes, there are roughly 12 processes that your exterior can undergo.

Washing & Drying - This is an important step to master because this is the foundation of any detail. This is also the process in which most imperfections are added to your paint, so take the time to research the proper washing and drying techniques.

Waterless Washing - This is a great step to learn if you do not have access to a hose on a regular basis. It works great for people who reside in apartment complexes and mobile detailers.

Using a Clay Bar - This step will help further remove surface contamination that was left behind during the wash stage of the detail. It properly preps the surface for the next steps.

Compounding - This step is used to correct paint with severe defects. Only use this step as a last resort after other, less aggressive methods have been tried and failed. You will almost always leave a haze or marring behind with this step which will need to be corrected by polishing or finishing the paint. You are removing part of the clear coat during this step.

Polishing - This step will take care of most imperfections, like light swirls, water marks, light surface scratches, etc. You are removing a minimal amount of clear coat during this step.

Finishing Polishes - This step will remove any hazing left behind from a more aggressive polish or a rotary buffer. This is when you diminish swirls and other imperfections to a minimum and the gloss and depth really jumps out. You will typically remove a tiny bit of the clear coat during this step.

All In One Products - This step is used to save time by combining some cleaning or polishing characteristics along with some form of protection. While the results are not quite as good as doing the steps separately, these products save time for people looking for great results in less time.

Glazes - Glazes typically have oils and clay in their formula in order to help fill in and hide imperfections. This is only a temporary solution as the fillers will wash out over time.

Sealants - This step adds a barrier of protection that typically lasts 3 - 6 months. A majority of sealants are easy to apply and remove, while giving off a reflective, mirror like look. These products are usually created in a lab.

Waxes - This step will add protection that typically lasts 2 - 8 weeks. A benefit of waxing is you add depth and dimension that sealants are unable to achieve. This is commonly used at car shows to really give off the wet look.

Spray on Protectants - This step usually enhances either a sealant or wax and is often used after a wash and dry during a maintenance step.

Quick Detailers - These products often have light cleaners in them and are great for removing a light dusting after performing a full detail.

Getting to know each step of the detailing process will really help you grow and learn when and why you are performing a detail on your vehicle. This is especially important if you plan on detailing for other people. It will save you a lot of time and you will best meet the customers needs by understanding what happens during each step of the process.

After you really understand what is going on, the products used are just the finishing touches. Once you start looking at the higher quality brands of detailing products, when used correctly, they will yield great results. Some products look better on certain colors, some will be more durable, some interior will give off more gloss or more of a matte look, etc. We all come to have our favorites and go to products over time.

Golden Rule - Prep work is the key to any quality detail. This means removing as much contamination as possible and removing as many imperfections in the clear coat as possible (while doing it safely of course). Prep work occurs during washing and drying, using a clay bar, polishing and glazing.

As far as Zaino vs OTC products is concerned. I think the biggest thing you would notice is longer durability of the protection offered. Zaino is always noted for its durability and recently have made some of their products easier to apply and use. If you vehicle is heavily swirled, Zaino may not be the best option to take, as they only have an option or two that actually remove imperfections. Other steps, such as Z5 fill in and hide imperfections.

I hope this gives you some insight on caring for your new vehicle and what options are available to you when it comes to choosing what processes your vehicle can undergo.

If you have any questions on anything presented, please do not hesitate to ask.

George
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      02-03-2020, 09:23 AM   #1886
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyingupfront View Post
I clay my car once a month. Is that too much?
I'm no expert but I would say that is probably too much unless you are driving in a harsh environment like lots of dirt or back roads.

Every time you clay bar you are removing any coatings you put on previously.

I only drive my car about 8 month out of the year and clay bar twice a year.
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      03-26-2020, 03:40 PM   #1887
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I forgot about the WolfGang 5500 Sealent on my car and forgot to buff it out and it has been 12 hours and I left it overnight! I buffed it out in the morning with a brand new microfiber towel. Is it okay or did I mess it up?
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