[magic77]

Needs some ideas / suggestions on a small problem.

With the soon arivial of another minime I need to move my little girl into the guest room. No big deal generally and everything is all planned. Problem is room is above kitchen and with the boiler / washing machine etc it can get quite noisy.

Thefore was thinking of sound insulation between floors. Any ideas if its safe, to put rockwool between the ground and 1st floor. Was thinking of lifting two ends of the floor and just pulling load through in each run.

The only thing running there are downlights and the heating pipes.


First problem was we have downlights in kitchen but sorted that with new aurora lights which are heat shielded and can be covered with insulation.

So just wondering if this would be a good method or can anything else be done.

[willhollin]

Rockwool would work well.

There are purpose made products for this sort of application but seeing as you can get Rockwool pretty cheap it would seem stupid not to use it.

Just make sure you are not interfering with any ventilation. Oh, I doubt you will be able to pull it through from one side to the other as it will just pull apart. Looks like a floor up or ceiling down job.

[Sportplus]

Originally Posted by willhollin

Rockwool would work well.

There are purpose made products for this sort of application but seeing as you can get Rockwool pretty cheap it would seem stupid not to use it.

Just make sure you are not interfering with any ventilation. Oh, I doubt you will be able to pull it through from one side to the other as it will just pull apart. Looks like a floor up or ceiling down job.

+1

Floor up would be the easy option. Are you sure the down lights have the protective cover? Most sparks (I was one for 17 years) would buy the cheaper option and tell you they fitted the best of the best

[magic77]

thanks , current spot lights are cheapy nasty ones no covers but found some new ones which have built in shields so no fussing about wih extra covers. So will be ordering those.

The room is not too wide about 2.5 meters so with both sides up about 50cm either side its only 1.5 meters ro so covered easiyly enoght to get my arm down it.

Looked into sound proof rock wool and it would come to about £200 instead about £20 for normal one so will go with that most likely.

[xenon]

Reduce heat by fitting LEDs. Available in GU10 fitting (for example) at 240v and run cold, last forever, and consume a fraction of the power of a halogen GU10.

[creepy coupe]

I think I'd sooner go this route rather than Rockwall. It would save you having the floor up and you'd only need to have the bottom of the doors planed.

HERE

[rogerxp]

Originally Posted by xenon

Reduce heat by fitting LEDs. Available in GU10 fitting (for example) at 240v and run cold, last forever, and consume a fraction of the power of a halogen GU10.

That's interesting for me. I've got about 12 spots running from one double-dimmer (with 12 on one side and 3 on the other) so it was constantly blowing the light switch. I've reduced the wattage (or whatever unit they're in) in all the 12 bulbs, so the light switch no longer blows up, but the amount of light is shite.

Would LEDs improve the amount of light whilst using less power so not damaging the switch???

Are these LED bad-boys more expensive than the Halogen equivalent (think I know the answer that's coming!!!).

Sorry, a little off-topic...

[mv57]

Originally Posted by creepy coupe

I think I'd sooner go this route rather than Rockwall. It would save you having the floor up and you'd only need to have the bottom of the doors planed.

HERE

That would work too.

If you want it done semi properly. Rockwool between the joist. Then neopreme rubber strips laid on the top of the joist with the floor board place on the neopreme.

Sound is one cause but machinery will and it's frequencies will vibrate the joist. All three would work best. But be aware of raising the floor high as doors will then need cuttin to size.

[xenon]

LEDs are quite a bit more expensive but because they last forever and consume much less electricity they're worthwhile. You can get a GU10 housing with 80 LEDs which is roughly equivalent to a 50w halogen but consumes just 4.5w. I don't know how well they'd work with a dimmer though, possibly not at all.

[Giff]

If you do change from 12v halogen to 12v LED you will also need to change to a suitable type of transformer.
I looked in to this recently and am gearing upto taking up the bathroom floor to rewire it..

[xenon]

Don't bother with all that transformer faff - use 240v LEDs like these.


Directly replaces the GU10 halogen bulb with no transformer needed.

[creepy coupe]

Bloke I work with moved into a house with GU10's everywhere. He bought a few LED replacements but found the spread of light very poor, it's a very direct pool of light under the LED. Might be worth trying one or two first.

[magic77]

Problem with LED ones they are not as good as halogen in light. Unless you buy the super expensive ones and they can come in around £30 a bulb.

The other option is the CFL bulbs so bit like enegry bulbs. Do take a bit to get to full brighness but last long time and generete very little heat.
360cd-11w/52469"]http://www.screwfix.com/p/halolite-compact-fluorescent-lamp-gu10-360cd-11w/52469[/URL]


I will look into the underlay I think it will be case of whats the cheapest.

New set of down lights and rock wool or the underlay.

If anyone is interested the ones I'm looking at are this range
http://www.tradingdepot.co.uk/DEF/pr...!!AUDLM532W!!/

[John320d]

just a thought,what about lifting a floorboard at each end of bedroom and blowing through some polystyrene or mica insulation pellets. cover the openings at one end of the room with fine chicken wire mesh and blow in the pellets with a garden vac/blower