[litxus]

Start with cheapest things first, that is to just flush the fluid and fill (maybe get new pan fill plug), as you cannot change 100% fluid anyway. If there is any difference, then change fluids again and replace the pan filter. If your trans is toast, that would not make much difference. You can of course start replacing other things, but you need to do the math as in the end if trans is completely toast, then you will need another trans, which used can be around 1k (car-part.com).

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by byte[

;24694043]

I’m a big fan of ams. how does it behave in this trans?

I've been using it in my 335 or around 100,000 miles. Ams oil makes every fluid for the e90 rwd. Trans is smooth as silk

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by litxus

Start with cheapest things first, that is to just flush the fluid and fill (maybe get new pan fill plug), as you cannot change 100% fluid anyway. If there is any difference, then change fluids again and replace the pan filter. If your trans is toast, that would not make much difference. You can of course start replacing other things, but you need to do the math as in the end if trans is completely toast, then you will need another trans, which used can be around 1k (car-part.com).

Not true. You can flush the entire system (even the torque converter) through the trans cooler line

I highly doubt the trans is toast. BMW ZF trans are very stout. You rarely hear about one going bad.

If it were me, I'd start with the rubber sleeves & the rubber square bushing in the trans and "maybe" redo the solenoids. There's a nice DIY on YouTube on this process.

But the OP mentioned Wheel Hop. So, I immediately thought of Differential & subframe bushings in rear.

[byte[]]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Not true. You can flush the entire system (even the torque converter) through the trans cooler line

I highly doubt the trans is toast. BMW ZF trans are very stout. You rarely hear about one going bad.

If it were me, I'd start with the rubber sleeves & the rubber square bushing in the trans and "maybe" redo the solenoids. There's a nice DIY on YouTube on this process.

But the OP mentioned Wheel Hop. So, I immediately thought of Differential & subframe bushings in rear.

I’m going to complete the relearn process and if that doesn’t help I’m going to check/change my guibo/csb/mounts and if that doesn’t help i’m going to do the sleeves and bushing and probably the solenoids too while im in there. chances are the bushings are also bad because even before mhd stage 1 i got that wheel hop.

[byte[]]

Originally Posted by kens

I'm not a mechanic but I've done my fair bit of research on these cars, mine has had it's share of problem.

I bought mine used with some old worn pilot super sports already, and after I did stage 1 MHD, I would lose traction pretty easily, everything felt like it would freak the fuck out and power was cut pretty violently. I have new tires since and done trans service and it doesn't happen anymore. However, it sounds like OP knows what he's talking about and is indeed having hop?

Considering OP just bought this, depending on the deal and disclosed things, is that something OP would wanna keep throwing money into without knowing exactly what to replace? haha. I've watched a lot of diy's of this car for entertainment, a full trans solenoid replacement, etc etc thing might do the car wonders but like you said, my own impression of them is that it's hard to break one under stock conditions if it's serviced at some point in it's "Lifetime." Makes me wonder if the car OP bought was a monster tuned modded car or not.

I'm on xHP stage 2 now, and everything is super smooth.

i got the car for a really good deal, $6500 for 109k miles, 335i coupe with sports package (no oil cooler though oddly enough). i don’t mind putting money into it if i have to, eventually i want to be stage 2+ reliably so reinforcing the weak links isn’t something i see negatively. however paying $500 for an alternator is pretty annoying. transmission is a different story, 500 into that feels like money well spent.

the last owner was a mechanic and this was his daily car so it came with some maintenance done to it. water pump is new (i am getting a waterpump code oddly enough along with a low coolant message even though my coolant is full..., all coolant pipes & radiator is new, coils plugs recently done (although i had to redo them), car came fully stock no tune or anything.

mine also does freak the fuck out and power cuts violently, but that’s down low and a bit different from the wheel hop. the wheel hop is indeed very very odd in that it happens at higher speeds. there’s no other way to explain it besides it feels like the car is driving on the emergency lane of the freeway, but much more violent. you really feel like everything is about to rip apart. i can feel the car bounce up and down when this happens. very odd.

[byte[]]

So I figure if issues aren’t resolved with relearning then transmission and the center support bearing, mounts, and guibo is okay, then i have 4 options.

1- replace all solenoids and gaskets inside the transmission and hope this fixes it ($450)

2 - buy a used trans with 100k+ miles ($500)

3 - buy a built trans rated for 550 foot lbs ($3000)

4 - swap the m3 dual clutch transmission in ($3000)


option 1 may not work but if it does the trans will hopefully be great for another 100k miles

option 2 should work guaranteed and comes with a 30 day warranty, but no promises itll last long

option 3 has a 1 year warranty and should handle about the same as option 4

option 4 has fast dct shifts and an extra gear so of course it’s gonna be a bit faster, and it handles the same as option 3 but no warranty

i feel that these are all equally great choices and i’m stumped with what to pick..

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by byte[

;24697037]

I'm going to complete the relearn process and if that doesn't help I'm going to check/change my guibo/csb/mounts and if that doesn't help i'm going to do the sleeves and bushing and probably the solenoids too while im in there. chances are the bushings are also bad because even before mhd stage 1 i got that wheel hop.

I wouldn't associate wheel hop with bad parts of the drive axel. Do you have a post where that solved their problem ?

[byte[]]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

I wouldn't associate wheel hop with bad parts of the drive axel. Do you have a post where that solved their problem ?

sorry i should’ve been more clear. i believe the hard shifting from 2nd to 1st may be caused by the guibo and csb, not the wheel hop. sorry for the confusion

i also found a successful 6hp28 swap, i may consider that. looks the least complicated of all swaps.

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by byte[]

Holy that is complicated

Explains why the trans shifts so much rougher after clearing adaptations. Hopefully this will improve it a bit. Will try tonight. Do I have to clear adaptations again if I have drove it a bit or does it not matter?

clear it and then drive the proper drive cycle.

then stop fucking with them. It's how you destroy the transmission or make it undrivable.

just service the thing and do the mechatronic seal before yous tart talking about rebuilding it.

it's probably not hurt now, but keep fucking around and you will be spending big money on a rebuild.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by byte[

;24697583]

sorry i should've been more clear. i believe the hard shifting from 2nd to 1st may be caused by the guibo and csb, not the wheel hop. sorry for the confusion

i also found a successful 6hp28 swap, i may consider that. looks the least complicated of all swaps.

Hard shifting could very well be solenoids & the various sleeves in the trans.

A bad guido & center bearing would just thump 24/7/365

[byte[]]

Originally Posted by nsjames

clear it and then drive the proper drive cycle.

then stop fucking with them. It's how you destroy the transmission or make it undrivable.

just service the thing and do the mechatronic seal before yous tart talking about rebuilding it.

it's probably not hurt now, but keep fucking around and you will be spending big money on a rebuild.

Okay, I will do the reset & drive cycle tonight. Won’t drive it till then.

[byte[]]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Hard shifting could very well be solenoids & the various sleeves in the trans.

A bad guido & center bearing would just thump 24/7/365

Thank you for this video, much better than the other one I found. This will make the process much easier.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by byte[

;24698414]

Thank you for this video, much better than the other one I found. This will make the process much easier.

I really think you need to do the solenoids & sleeves as well as the diff & subframe bushings.

I'd leave the drive axel alone for now.

That should get rid of your issues 1 to 2 & wheel hop. The M3 subframe & Diff bushings are noted for keeping the Differential more planted in high torque situations.

[byte[]]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

I really think you need to do the solenoids & sleeves as well as the diff & subframe bushings.

I'd leave the drive axel alone for now.

That should get rid of your issues 1 to 2 & wheel hop. The M3 subframe & Diff bushings are noted for keeping the Differential more planted in high torque situations.

Last question
I know I have to do this with the car warm, but I do have a low coolant light. My coolant level is fine I believe there is an issue with my level sensor or maybe wiring issues to my water pump? (i have communication error) but will this stop me from completing the adaptation relearn if the car is warm? I hope not! The car runs at 100c.

Also does this sound accurate to you?

"-Giubo (FLEX DISC)
26117610061
BMW part number : 26117610061
with:
26117526611
Driveshaft Centering Sleeve / Guide bushings
BMW part number : 26117526611

They usually go bad after BMW lifetime period 60-70k.

Common Symptoms:
a) hard 2-1 shift
b) at stop you can hear clunking when shifting from P-R-D
c) overall transmission shifting quality"

I found it off here: https://sayyarti.wordpress.com/2015/...ission-issues/

I have all those symptoms which is why I was looking into guibo and csb.

[byte[]]

Originally Posted by kens

I'm sure you probably already know this because you seem on top of it, but i'll offer you some resources I have compiled over the years, wishing I knew about it early on haha.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/select

This has saved my butt trying to find parts #'s and stuff.

So has https://www.getbmwparts.com/

Going further, you may already know these but https://www.fcpeuro.com/BMW-parts/ is popular, as well as https://www.ecstuning.com/ and http://www.burgertuning.com/ and https://www.vr-speed.com/.

I'm not affiliated with any of these websites, just what seems popular and legit.

Also, from what I've read, for certain things you might need to replace that has a plug and play or close to M3 alternative, it's probably much better to do - a good example would be m3 control arms.

To be honest the only website I have known out of those is fcpeuro because they've always been cheaper than ecstuning.. maybe the others will be cheaper. Oh and realoem too of course. I appreciate that though... it also looks like I'm going to be ordering some stuff off there now.

I reset adaptations and started the relearn process. Maybe 5 seconds upon getting into 5th the iDrive trans malfunction light came back on (very odd seeing how it did not before.) I scanned codes and it threw the same 5-4 ratio monitoring code. Looks like I have a new job to tackle,

I looked into the common problems our gearboxes have a good bit today and decided I probably wont be replacing the solenoids themselves, just the rubber gaskets. Reason being I heard the solenoids throw their own codes and slippage more likely has to do with the gaskets. Hopefully I see good results after completing this.

Regardless 6hp28 swap is likely the route I will eventually be taking, this may just give me motivation to do it sooner. However, for now, would an XHP flash help prolong the life of the transmission (I plan on going MHD stage 2+ or higher). I'm not sure if MHD flashes the transmission or not, this is why I ask.

Thank you all, I will update once I replace the gaskets.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by byte[

;24699885]

Last question
I know I have to do this with the car warm, but I do have a low coolant light. My coolant level is fine I believe there is an issue with my level sensor or maybe wiring issues to my water pump? (i have communication error) but will this stop me from completing the adaptation relearn if the car is warm? I hope not! The car runs at 100c.

Also does this sound accurate to you?

"-Giubo (FLEX DISC)
26117610061
BMW part number : 26117610061
with:
26117526611
Driveshaft Centering Sleeve / Guide bushings
BMW part number : 26117526611

They usually go bad after BMW lifetime period 60-70k.

Common Symptoms:
a) hard 2-1 shift
b) at stop you can hear clunking when shifting from P-R-D
c) overall transmission shifting quality"

I found it off here: https://sayyarti.wordpress.com/2015/...ission-issues/

I have all those symptoms which is why I was looking into guibo and csb.

I have 162,000. Never changed the center bearing or guido. If were to do a Guido, I'd look into the 335is version.

If you really think it's the guido & center bearing vs the solenoids, go for it.

Worse case, you end up with a new guido, center bearing & new solenoids in the tranny.

Long term ownership would benefit from both being done.

Do you have a code for your low coolant light ?

I'd try to topping off the reserve tank & running the bubble purge system. (Turning the heat up to 84 on level 1, & pressing the pedal down for 12 seconds until you hear the pump). Use a battery charger of course.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by byte[

;24700513]

To be honest the only website I have known out of those is fcpeuro because they've always been cheaper than ecstuning.. maybe the others will be cheaper. Oh and realoem too of course. I appreciate that though... it also looks like I'm going to be ordering some stuff off there now.

I reset adaptations and started the relearn process. Maybe 5 seconds upon getting into 5th the iDrive trans malfunction light came back on (very odd seeing how it did not before.) I scanned codes and it threw the same 5-4 ratio monitoring code. Looks like I have a new job to tackle,

I looked into the common problems our gearboxes have a good bit today and decided I probably wont be replacing the solenoids themselves, just the rubber gaskets. Reason being I heard the solenoids throw their own codes and slippage more likely has to do with the gaskets. Hopefully I see good results after completing this.

Regardless 6hp28 swap is likely the route I will eventually be taking, this may just give me motivation to do it sooner. However, for now, would an XHP flash help prolong the life of the transmission (I plan on going MHD stage 2+ or higher). I'm not sure if MHD flashes the transmission or not, this is why I ask.

Thank you all, I will update once I replace the gaskets.

MHD does not flash the trans. It flashes the ECU. There is an option to check off the xHp flash in MHD.

[relative4]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

I have 162,000. Never changed the center bearing or guido. If were to do a Guido, I'd look into the 335is version.

If you really think it's the guido & center bearing vs the solenoids, go for it.

Worse case, you end up with a new guido, center bearing & new solenoids in the tranny.

OMG, I can't take it any more. The word is "giubo". GIUBO. Not "guibo". Not Guido your cousin from the Bronx. GIUBO.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by relative4

OMG, I can't take it any more. The word is "giubo". GIUBO. Not "guibo". Not Guido your cousin from the Bronx. GIUBO.

Lmfao

[byte[]]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

I have 162,000. Never changed the center bearing or guido. If were to do a Guido, I'd look into the 335is version.

If you really think it's the guido & center bearing vs the solenoids, go for it.

Worse case, you end up with a new guido, center bearing & new solenoids in the tranny.

Long term ownership would benefit from both being done.

Do you have a code for your low coolant light ?

I'd try to topping off the reserve tank & running the bubble purge system. (Turning the heat up to 84 on level 1, & pressing the pedal down for 12 seconds until you hear the pump). Use a battery charger of course.

i have done the bleed process and i do have a code for my coolant. it’s a water pump code, 2e85 2e83 i believe. i know the pump has recently been done too. this car actually has all sorts of electrical ”issues” along with those codes. i get taillight malfunctions a bunch. i also sometimes get “passenger seatbelt malfunction”, and i recently got low beam malfunction along with my fog lights not turning on/off anymore! sucks because my xenons aren’t doing the best job at lighting up and that’s what i’d use to see. i think i definitely have a bad ground somewhere.

id also inspect the “giubo” and csb before replacing it without a doubt, but after last nights transmission code im sure there’s a bigger problem here. hopefully that problem is solenoids and not toasted clutch plates.

[byte[]]

Originally Posted by relative4

OMG, I can't take it any more. The word is "giubo". GIUBO. Not "guibo". Not Guido your cousin from the Bronx. GIUBO.

whatever you say guibo

[byte[]]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

MHD does not flash the trans. It flashes the ECU. There is an option to check off the xHp flash in MHD.

oh ok, good to know. is their lvl 3 700 tq claim anywhere near accurate..?