[dblrguy]

Car facts: 2010 335i with Procede Rev3, DCI, Catless DP's. 5-23 Stage 2, Map 1. Running 93 Oct. OAT in the upper 80's.

Anyone see anything wrong with this log? Spent hours online trying to learn as much about deciphering them before I posted. Meth will be up and running this weekend so IATs will drop.

As I understand it the things to look for are:

Boost to taper toward redline, as this is normal.
The higher the AFR toward 15:1 the better (during load), ie. more efficient.
Fuel trims not to bottom out post shift. (Mine does a little but there was no time for adaptations to be learned, will this get better?
Actual Ignition Advance to stay around the 10 deg area. You can see that through most of 3rd gear I'm at 0 should I be worried?

Things I'm still trying to understand:
How can I see if I have traction loss?
Is there a channel that shows knock events?
Is there anything else that I should be looking at or for?

Thanks for looking and for any help or advice offered.

[BrianMN]

When you are WOT (only the last gear), things look decent. I wouldn't hesitate to raise your Global Adjustable OL Fueling to 100, as it's hitting the ceiling for a short moment.

[dblrguy]

Originally Posted by BrianMN

When you are WOT (only the last gear), things look decent. I wouldn't hesitate to raise your Global Adjustable OL Fueling to 100, as it's hitting the ceiling for a short moment.

Thanks!

[Lulz_M3]

Looks like timing flatlined on the last gear...

[dblrguy]

Originally Posted by Lulz_M3

Looks like timing flatlined on the last gear...

What may have caused it and what should I do about it? Less aggressive map?

Thanks for looking!

[BrianMN]

Originally Posted by Lulz_M3

Looks like timing flatlined on the last gear...

Yep- I had read the scaling wrong- thinking it was at 10 ramping up (which would be normal/good)

Originally Posted by dblrguy

What may have caused it and what should I do about it? Less aggressive map?

Thanks for looking!

Try a couple "clean" runs/logs. DO some single gear sweeps as well as full 3rd gear to 4th gear pulls. I suspect some funny stuff happened with what you were doing in the gear prior to last.

[dblrguy]

Originally Posted by BrianMN

Yep- I had read the scaling wrong- thinking it was at 10 ramping up (which would be normal/good)



Try a couple "clean" runs/logs. DO some single gear sweeps as well as full 3rd gear to 4th gear pulls. I suspect some funny stuff happened with what you were doing in the gear prior to last.

Will do that, thanks again.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

The best way to log is 3rd gear, traction control fully off, 2500 RPM, WOT to redline.
If you can safely shift to 4th and get in that gear for a second or 2 that would be good also.

1st and 2nd gear logs don't tell us much as the gears dont have enough load/ heat and usually not enough traction either.

A typical boost graph is supposed to taper on the top end. Ignition should be lower in the mid-range and higher on the top end, unless you are running methanol then it can stay fairly constant through the RPM range.

AFR up to should be 12.0 (or around there).

[dblrguy]

Originally Posted by Jeff@topgearsolutions

The best way to log is 3rd gear, traction control fully off, 2500 RPM, WOT to redline.
If you can safely shift to 4th and get in that gear for a second or 2 that would be good also.

1st and 2nd gear logs don't tell us much as the gears dont have enough load/ heat and usually not enough traction either.

A typical boost graph is supposed to taper on the top end. Ignition should be lower in the mid-range and higher on the top end, unless you are running methanol then it can stay fairly constant through the RPM range.

AFR up to should be 12.0 (or around there).

Thanks for the insight Jeff. This is information that I have read and gathered in different places but you just summed it up for me very well.


I have another question. Is there a possibility that something is wrong with my car based on what you can see from the logs? I don't have any codes or lights. It may sound odd but after years of reading posts about the power of a tuned 335, I have to say that I'm not as impressed as others seem to be. I appreciate the power I can tell that the car is quick, but I still keep wondering if something is amiss with my car. I bought it used from a dealer, they were going to CPO it but I told them I didn't want to pay for it. My only other experience in a 335 was a 2008 that I test drove. There is a possibility whoever traded it in left a tune on it. (It was not at a dealer.) I knew I was not going to buy it and I test drove it hard. My wife managed to scare me in it. Now I'm not driving my car quite as hard as I test drove the 2008 but mine does not feel like it has the same power.

My thoughts are that, A. I'm just spoiled by the torque and feeling of acceleration on my bike. Or that there is something wrong with the car that I have not been able to identify. Do any of the flash tunes have a valet map or detune map that might be preventing the procede from pushing to its full potential? Can I see the DME firmware version through the dash or IDrive? Will it show me anything?

My charge pipe arrives on Friday. Finishing up all the wiring for the meth tomorrow so I'll have that going for me this weekend. Going to dyno as soon as I can after I confirm that meth is functioning correctly.

I'll stop here, I've made this post long enough already.

Thanks again everyone for looking and any insight.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by dblrguy

Thanks for the insight Jeff. This is information that I have read and gathered in different places but you just summed it up for me very well.


I have another question. Is there a possibility that something is wrong with my car based on what you can see from the logs? I don't have any codes or lights. It may sound odd but after years of reading posts about the power of a tuned 335, I have to say that I'm not as impressed as others seem to be. I appreciate the power I can tell that the car is quick, but I still keep wondering if something is amiss with my car. I bought it used from a dealer, they were going to CPO it but I told them I didn't want to pay for it. My only other experience in a 335 was a 2008 that I test drove. There is a possibility whoever traded it in left a tune on it. (It was not at a dealer.) I knew I was not going to buy it and I test drove it hard. My wife managed to scare me in it. Now I'm not driving my car quite as hard as I test drove the 2008 but mine does not feel like it has the same power.

My thoughts are that, A. I'm just spoiled by the torque and feeling of acceleration on my bike. Or that there is something wrong with the car that I have not been able to identify. Do any of the flash tunes have a valet map or detune map that might be preventing the procede from pushing to its full potential? Can I see the DME firmware version through the dash or IDrive? Will it show me anything?

My charge pipe arrives on Friday. Finishing up all the wiring for the meth tomorrow so I'll have that going for me this weekend. Going to dyno as soon as I can after I confirm that meth is functioning correctly.

I'll stop here, I've made this post long enough already.

Thanks again everyone for looking and any insight.

Looking at the logs of the last pull it seems to be running great up top. Although I can't see your intake air temperatures in the log which would be hindering a lot of performance, especially in the texas heat.

With some of these cars getting old, 40-50K+ mileage cars should look into a valve cleaning. The intake valves get really gunked up and lose a lot of power that way.

Fresh plugs is always good every 20-25K too.

[Ilma]

Timing flatlining will rob your car of power and you definitely flatlined in 4th.

It's a tricky thing to deal with as some cars are more prone to it than others.

Mine was doing this on and off for almost a year.

You may have to adjust your boost value downwards to 12 or 13 psi, but I found that adjusting the Open Loop fuel user adjustable downwards made my car less prone to flatlining.

However, I recently increased my meth jet size and ran a higher mix of water in my meth mix and the issue seems much better.

Timing in 4th gear now jumps immediately post shift to 10 degrees.

I suspect it has something to do with either fuel pressure settings that the DME does not tolerate well or cylinder chamber heat was getting too high.

I don't buy into that theory 100% - but I have to admit using more water and flowing a higher volume of meth/water seems to make my engine happy and it doesn't flatline anymore.

Like I said....some engines seem to be more prone to this than others. You just have to try changing some of the variables one at a time and see what impact it has.

In my case it seemed to be related to fueling and providing more of it via the meth delivery helped tremendously.

In your case I would say try playing with OL fuel and see what happens. My car generally ran best on OL = 85% while not running meth. The only downside is that your fuel trims will rise as you decrease your OL value. But as long as you are hitting your AF ratio around 12's and don't see fuel trims hitting 34 max sustained on your datalogs you will be fine.

If you see sustained fuel trims of 34 then back off a bit. It's OK for them to hit 34 initially at WOT onset and post-shift as long as the trims taper back down shortly afterwards.

Hope that helps

[dblrguy]

Originally Posted by Ilma

Timing flatlining will rob your car of power and you definitely flatlined in 4th.

Hope that helps

Thanks for your input Ilma!