E90Post
 


TNT Racewerks
 
BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > General E90 Sedan / E91 Wagon / E92 Coupe / E93 Cabrio > College kid...ruined my car



Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
      11-08-2020, 02:57 PM   #1
Domo55
New Member
0
Rep
12
Posts

Drives: 2008 BMW 328i
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: Texas

iTrader: (0)

College kid...ruined my car

Hey Iím broke college kid with a 2008 328i and last year I needed a new battery but didnít have the money so I had it serviced at my dads work by a non BMW mechanic. Shortly after I started getting ďincreased battery dischargeĒ message and other battery messages then the car would light up but not start. I had no money to fix it so I let it sit for over a year. Now itís completely dead no lights. I decided to look into it and noticed that the small blue wire shown labeled as 3 was unplugged. Is there anyway this couldíve cause the problem and is there anyway I can get my car started again. And yes I know it was stupid to not properly service it and to let it sit so long. Any advice is appreciated.
Attached Images
  

Last edited by Domo55; 11-08-2020 at 03:00 PM.. Reason: New picture
Appreciate 0
      11-08-2020, 03:38 PM   #2
Smgs1992
Captain
682
Rep
940
Posts

Drives: 2007 bmw 335i
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Cincinnati ohio

iTrader: (0)

That blue wire is for when the cars are shipped from germany/south africa. Dont worry about it.
These cars are supposed to have a new battery registered so it charges at the proper rate. Without doing so can cause a multitude of issues. Also if you changed the battery type that will cause issues too. It all comes down to you not registering the battery
__________________
07 E92 335i 6MT, MMP inlets, DCI, VRSF 7.5 competition intercooler, VRSF catless downpipes, VRSF chargepipe, 335is clutch, Vader Solutions stage 2 LPFP, MHD stage 2+, Hawk HPS 5.0 pads, R1 Concepts drilled slotted rotors, TSW Nurburgring 19x8 19x9.5
Appreciate 0
      11-08-2020, 04:01 PM   #3
Domo55
New Member
0
Rep
12
Posts

Drives: 2008 BMW 328i
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: Texas

iTrader: (0)

I found this on an old thread

ďThat blue connector in the first post is part of the BSD communication network. It is critical to proper function of the car. It has nothing to do with showrooms or discharging etc. More than you want to know can be found here:
http://freemaxx.de/e90forum/03_Power%20Management.pdf

The BSD faults can be traced to any of that data network's components- Alternator, IBS, oil sender, wiring, etc. ISTA-D has test modules to trace faults. You can guess at it and throw parts at it but best to do a proper diagnostics session.Ē
Appreciate 0
      11-08-2020, 05:49 PM   #4
Tunafish
Banned
United_States
252
Rep
851
Posts

Drives: BMW 335i N55
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: Home

iTrader: (0)

That was a good read and I haven't seen that one before. So to sum it up.. That blue plug (BSD) is how the IBS communicates with the DME.. The IBS gives info to the DME and the DME uses that to give the best charging voltage to the battery... If the BSD is unplugged the DME will not get that info... Then the DME goes into emergency state and charges with a straight 14.3v..

So the blue wire unplugged would still charge your battery... You said you needed a new battery but got your battery serviced, what do you mean by this? If you didn't get a new battery and needed one back then, than you probably just need a new battery.. Check you voltage if you have a meter...
Appreciate 0
      11-08-2020, 06:44 PM   #5
Domo55
New Member
0
Rep
12
Posts

Drives: 2008 BMW 328i
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: Texas

iTrader: (0)

Sorry idk anything about cars when I say serviced I just mean I got the battery replaced and I thought they registered it but probably not. I donít really talk to my dad but at the time he assured me that his mechanic knew how to properly change out a BMW battery. So I guess thatís probably the problem? So how do I go about fixing this issue. Since the car has been sitting for over a year Iím sure thereís other issues. I canít get it to start at all. I tried a battery charger and jumpstart but nothing
Appreciate 0
      11-08-2020, 06:50 PM   #6
Tunafish
Banned
United_States
252
Rep
851
Posts

Drives: BMW 335i N55
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: Home

iTrader: (0)

Is the car starter spinning the engine or when you press start it does nothing? If the starter spins the engine then its likely not the battery.. If the starter does nothing it could be the battery.. Take it out and go get it tested at an auto part store.. Most will do for free...
Appreciate 0
      11-08-2020, 07:00 PM   #7
Domo55
New Member
0
Rep
12
Posts

Drives: 2008 BMW 328i
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: Texas

iTrader: (0)

The car does nothing. Doesnít even attempt to turn on. No noise or anything. It was a brand new battery so did it die or something from it not being installed properly? Like I said at first the car at least would light up on the inside and stuff but now itís nothing at all.
Appreciate 0
      11-08-2020, 07:14 PM   #8
colorado.e9x
Entrepreneur
colorado.e9x's Avatar
United_States
1617
Rep
2,274
Posts

Drives: 06 BMW 330xi
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Western Slope, Colorado

iTrader: (0)

Battery is most definitely dead if you let it sit for a year while its still connected. Take it out, recharge it, reinstall, and code the car to the specifications listed on the battery.

Sidenote: Any battery will completely drain on any car when sitting for a long enough time.
__________________
Common sense is a flower that does not bloom in everyone's garden
Appreciate 3
feuer3899.00
Efthreeoh9522.50
tlow981675.00
      11-08-2020, 07:26 PM   #9
Domo55
New Member
0
Rep
12
Posts

Drives: 2008 BMW 328i
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: Texas

iTrader: (0)

Yeah I figured thatís why itís completely dead now but Iím wondering what caused it to initially stop working. So its it likely to work again if I charge it and code it?
Appreciate 0
      11-08-2020, 07:51 PM   #10
Domo55
New Member
0
Rep
12
Posts

Drives: 2008 BMW 328i
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: Texas

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tunafish View Post
That was a good read and I haven't seen that one before. So to sum it up.. That blue plug (BSD) is how the IBS communicates with the DME.. The IBS gives info to the DME and the DME uses that to give the best charging voltage to the battery... If the BSD is unplugged the DME will not get that info... Then the DME goes into emergency state and charges with a straight 14.3v..

So the blue wire unplugged would still charge your battery... You said you needed a new battery but got your battery serviced, what do you mean by this? If you didn't get a new battery and needed one back then, than you probably just need a new battery.. Check you voltage if you have a meter...
Also would it cause the problem if it was running in this ďemergency stateĒ and not giving the appropriate charging voltage for the new battery?
Appreciate 0
      11-08-2020, 08:23 PM   #11
Tunafish
Banned
United_States
252
Rep
851
Posts

Drives: BMW 335i N55
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: Home

iTrader: (0)

From what I read it would just have a solid voltage like millions of cars without BMW's voodoo... It should not have caused battery to go low.. Again from what I read but there's a lot of information in there so its possible I missed something or misunderstood something.

Either way charging battery should bring it back to life.. But you should get yourself a cheap mulitmeter. You can get one for ten dollars at Wal-Mart.. So you can see what your voltage at battery and once you get car started what running voltage is ..
Appreciate 0
      11-08-2020, 08:32 PM   #12
Efthreeoh
Lieutenant General
United_States
9523
Rep
16,194
Posts

Drives: E90 & Z4 Coupe
Join Date: May 2012
Location: MARLAND

iTrader: (0)

Get a new battery.
__________________
A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
Appreciate 3
EvaBmw91.50
tlow981675.00
      11-08-2020, 09:39 PM   #13
colorado.e9x
Entrepreneur
colorado.e9x's Avatar
United_States
1617
Rep
2,274
Posts

Drives: 06 BMW 330xi
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Western Slope, Colorado

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
Get a new battery.
If its an Interstate and he keeps the receipt he'll be well within warranty. I would too, that whole time the car was charging it wrong and damaging the cells
__________________
Common sense is a flower that does not bloom in everyone's garden
Appreciate 0
      11-08-2020, 10:24 PM   #14
EvaBmw
Second Lieutenant
92
Rep
298
Posts

Drives: Bmw e90
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Australia

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Domo55 View Post
Yeah I figured thatís why itís completely dead now but Iím wondering what caused it to initially stop working. So its it likely to work again if I charge it and code it?
You will definitely need a new battery. Once a battery is discharged, the cells start building up sulfate crystals on the plates. This is sometimes reversible if it has only been discharged for a week or so.
Permanent sulfation sets in when the battery has been in a low state-of-charge for weeks or months, and is not reversible. Your battery will be permanently damaged unfortunately and you need a new one.
Appreciate 0
      11-08-2020, 10:32 PM   #15
gbalthrop
Colonel
1004
Rep
2,234
Posts

Drives: 2007 328xi E91
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Fairfax County, Virginia

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Domo55 View Post
... 2008 328i and last year I needed a new battery but didnít have the money so I had it serviced at my dads work by a non BMW mechanic. Shortly after I started getting ďincreased battery dischargeĒ message and other battery messages then the car would light up but not start. I had no money to fix it so I let it sit for over a year. Now itís completely dead no lights. I decided to look into it and noticed that the small blue wire shown labeled as 3 was unplugged. Is there anyway this couldíve cause the problem and is there anyway I can get my car started again.
Any Physics classes, or Electrical Engineering classes where you're a student?

Some OJT (On the Job Training) or "Community College" level suggestions:
1) Get a DMM (Digital Multimeter); $7 is ALL you need to spend. If you haven't used one before, just download the pdf manual and read the parts about measuring DC Volts and Ohms resistance:
https://www.harborfreight.com/7-func...g_q=multimeter
2) Practice measuring Battery Voltage: (a) at the battery posts (the round studs the Battery Terminals connect to), and (b) at the Jumpstart Terminals under the hood.

Post those two Voltage values, and answer these questions:
A) Do you have, or have access to, a battery charger and and extension cord to reach your vehicle? If NOT, do you need instructions on how to REMOVE the battery, either to recharge it or replace it?
B) What is the "Group Size" or "H-size" (H5, H7, etc.) of the battery currently in your vehicle? Copy of take photos of labels on the battery.
C) Do you have, or have access to, a Scan Tool or Code Reader, and if so, the brand & Model of the tool?

I presume when you said "small blue wire" you meant small Blue Connector? That is what you circled in the photo, and that connector connects the IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor) to the BSD Bus or chassis wiring harness, which allows the IBS to communicate with the DME (Engine Control Module) to regulate charging of the battery. The car will start and run OK WITHOUT:
1) that blue connector being plugged in; or
2) WITHOUT "registering", or any other Web Legend mumbo-jumbo related to the battery.

NOTHING you have mentioned in this thread so far could have "Ruined" your car. You just have a dead battery at the moment. ANY battery that is properly charged should start your engine, so get a battery with > 12.2 Volts charge properly connected to the (+) battery terminal and the (-) battery terminal. Have to be careful removing the battery terminals and the RPDP "Rear Power Distribution Panel" that is located on top of the battery, as improper procedure can damage the IBS, the BST (Battery Safety Terminal) at the (+) terminal, or the RPDP.

You can always TRY recharging your current battery. ALWAYS recharge or JumpStart by applying the power to the Jumpstart Terminals under the Hood, and NOT at the Battery Terminals in the trunk. HOWEVER, if the battery was discharged during freezing weather (for > 1 year) then it's likely damaged internally, requiring replacement.

I would suggest trying to make this a learning experience and NOT beat yourself up. Get a charged battery in there & let us know if you have any problems getting it to crank or fire. ONCE you get it running, post back regarding any needed change of code/option for battery type or capacity.

IF YOU HAVE TO REPLACE the battery, unless you KNOW that it originally came with an AGM battery, I would suggest this H8 Battery from Walmart, $130, and you probably will NOT need to spend time or money coding or "registering" the battery. The Walmart tag on the battery will show the Month/Year sold.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart...0-CCA/16782659

BTW, the battery you show in the photo is TOO SMALL for your vehicle. That size battery will work for awhile, but is even smaller than an H7 battery. Your vehicle came from the factory with an H8, which completely fills the battery well from front to rear. If you look at your photo, your battery hold-down clamp is on the third threaded hole from rear to front. Smaller battery has less Cranking Amps, AND less capacity.

George
Appreciate 3
      11-08-2020, 11:55 PM   #16
Domo55
New Member
0
Rep
12
Posts

Drives: 2008 BMW 328i
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: Texas

iTrader: (0)

No engineering or physics classes for me lol hence my cluelessness. I figured I'd have to get a new battery I was just concerned about why the battery I got only lasted two weeks. I'm concerned that if I get a new one it will do the same thing so I was trying to see if the blue connector or "wire" as I said could've been the cause or if I need to register it or something. I'd rather buy a new battery if u say the battery I have is not the best and I don't want to mess with something that's most likely damaged. I attached pictures of the battery I had before I had it replaced. I got this car used so I'm unsure if this was the original. Do u still recommend the one u linked from Walmart?
Attached Images
  
Appreciate 0
      11-09-2020, 10:46 AM   #17
colorado.e9x
Entrepreneur
colorado.e9x's Avatar
United_States
1617
Rep
2,274
Posts

Drives: 06 BMW 330xi
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Western Slope, Colorado

iTrader: (0)

Good ol' George coming in with the detailed replies. Respect it.
__________________
Common sense is a flower that does not bloom in everyone's garden
Appreciate 0
      11-09-2020, 10:48 AM   #18
tlow98
Brigadier General
1675
Rep
4,186
Posts

Drives: 2009 E91, 2014 F15 x35i
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Bay Area

iTrader: (2)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Smgs1992 View Post
That blue wire is for when the cars are shipped from germany/south africa. Dont worry about it.
These cars are supposed to have a new battery registered so it charges at the proper rate. Without doing so can cause a multitude of issues. Also if you changed the battery type that will cause issues too. It all comes down to you not registering the battery
That's a different connector you're talking about. It's small and black.

The blue one is important to the battery function.

Buy a new battery of the correct size, register it, and plug in all wires correctly.

There is the possibility you need an alternator, but you need to take care of the battery first.

Just follow George's advice above - can't go wrong. Or tow your car to BMW dealer and pay the $750 it will cost for the tow, diagnosis, and battery.
Appreciate 1
Domo550.00
      11-09-2020, 12:04 PM   #19
Domo55
New Member
0
Rep
12
Posts

Drives: 2008 BMW 328i
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: Texas

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by gbalthrop View Post

Any Physics classes, or Electrical Engineering classes where you're a student?

Some OJT (On the Job Training) or "Community College" level suggestions:
1) Get a DMM (Digital Multimeter); $7 is ALL you need to spend. If you haven't used one before, just download the pdf manual and read the parts about measuring DC Volts and Ohms resistance:
https://www.harborfreight.com/7-func...g_q=multimeter
2) Practice measuring Battery Voltage: (a) at the battery posts (the round studs the Battery Terminals connect to), and (b) at the Jumpstart Terminals under the hood.

Post those two Voltage values, and answer these questions:
A) Do you have, or have access to, a battery charger and and extension cord to reach your vehicle? If NOT, do you need instructions on how to REMOVE the battery, either to recharge it or replace it?
B) What is the "Group Size" or "H-size" (H5, H7, etc.) of the battery currently in your vehicle? Copy of take photos of labels on the battery.
C) Do you have, or have access to, a Scan Tool or Code Reader, and if so, the brand & Model of the tool?

I presume when you said "small blue wire" you meant small Blue Connector? That is what you circled in the photo, and that connector connects the IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor) to the BSD Bus or chassis wiring harness, which allows the IBS to communicate with the DME (Engine Control Module) to regulate charging of the battery. The car will start and run OK WITHOUT:
1) that blue connector being plugged in; or
2) WITHOUT "registering", or any other Web Legend mumbo-jumbo related to the battery.

NOTHING you have mentioned in this thread so far could have "Ruined" your car. You just have a dead battery at the moment. ANY battery that is properly charged should start your engine, so get a battery with > 12.2 Volts charge properly connected to the (+) battery terminal and the (-) battery terminal. Have to be careful removing the battery terminals and the RPDP "Rear Power Distribution Panel" that is located on top of the battery, as improper procedure can damage the IBS, the BST (Battery Safety Terminal) at the (+) terminal, or the RPDP.

You can always TRY recharging your current battery. ALWAYS recharge or JumpStart by applying the power to the Jumpstart Terminals under the Hood, and NOT at the Battery Terminals in the trunk. HOWEVER, if the battery was discharged during freezing weather (for > 1 year) then it's likely damaged internally, requiring replacement.

I would suggest trying to make this a learning experience and NOT beat yourself up. Get a charged battery in there & let us know if you have any problems getting it to crank or fire. ONCE you get it running, post back regarding any needed change of code/option for battery type or capacity.

IF YOU HAVE TO REPLACE the battery, unless you KNOW that it originally came with an AGM battery, I would suggest this H8 Battery from Walmart, $130, and you probably will NOT need to spend time or money coding or "registering" the battery. The Walmart tag on the battery will show the Month/Year sold.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart...0-CCA/16782659

BTW, the battery you show in the photo is TOO SMALL for your vehicle. That size battery will work for awhile, but is even smaller than an H7 battery. Your vehicle came from the factory with an H8, which completely fills the battery well from front to rear. If you look at your photo, your battery hold-down clamp is on the third threaded hole from rear to front. Smaller battery has less Cranking Amps, AND less capacity.

George
No engineering or physics classes for me lol hence my cluelessness. I figured I'd have to get a new battery I was just concerned about why the battery I got only lasted two weeks. I'm concerned that if I get a new one it will do the same thing so I was trying to see if the blue connector or "wire" as I said could've been the cause or if I need to register it or something. I'd rather buy a new battery if u say the battery I have is not the best and I don't want to mess with something that's most likely damaged. I attached pictures of the battery I had before I had it replaced. I got this car used so I'm unsure if this was the original. Do u still recommend the one u linked from Walmart?
Attached Images
  
Appreciate 0
      11-09-2020, 01:06 PM   #20
gbalthrop
Colonel
1004
Rep
2,234
Posts

Drives: 2007 328xi E91
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Fairfax County, Virginia

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Domo55 View Post
... [1] I was just concerned about why the battery I got only lasted two weeks. I'm concerned that if I get a new one it will do the same thing so I was trying to see if the blue connector or "wire" as I said could've been the cause or if I need to register it or something. [2] I'd rather buy a new battery if u say the battery I have is not the best and I don't want to mess with something that's most likely damaged. I attached pictures of the battery I had before I had it replaced. I got this car used so I'm unsure if this was the original. Do u still recommend the one u linked from Walmart?
I'm confused (by YOUR posts so far, as opposed to senility ;-)
Your first post showed a Green Battery that was VERY small. It only extended ~ 1" beyond the brace over the battery, and the hold-down behind the battery appeared to be in the 3rd threaded hole from the rear.
Your LAST post shows a White Exide battery with 90 Ah rating that appears to be H7 or possibly even H8 in case size. THAT is the size and Ah capacity you NEED if you have to replace THAT battery.
Is the WHITE battery the one that is NOW in your vehicle?
IF SO, I would try slow charging THAT Battery (at the Jumpstart Terminals under the hood), and see if it will accept and hold a charge.

IF you have to replace the White Battery, the Walmart H8 battery I linked is the cheapest replacement of a "Correctly-sized" battery for your vehicle. $130 for a battery with 3-year free replacement, and additional 2 years pro-rata replacement Warranty. ANY Walmart sells them. Large Walmarts have one in stock.

As for the concern about proper function of the charging system, GET THE $7 DMM.

We have to get your battery charged/changed to Start the Engine, to MEASURE SYSTEM VOLTAGE with the DMM, with Engine Running and Alternator Charging (hopefully ;-)

SUMMARY of what I would do:
1) Get a $7 Multimeter;
2) Beg, borrow, Buy ($40 at HFT) a battery charger;
3) Try charging the current battery (particularly if it's the White Exide);
4) Slow Charge at 6-Amp charge rate for 12 hours, reducing to 2-Amp charge rate (slide switch on Charger) for an additional 12 hours.
4a) If you need to remove the battery to take it inside or to a shop to charge it, let us know and we can give Step-by-Step instructions on removal so you don't damage something. There are some hidden "gotcha's" to avoid.
5) Remove charger and wait 30 minutes (for "surface charge" to subside);
6) Measure Voltage at Jumpstart Terminals and record value;
7) If Voltage 12.2V or more, attempt to crank starter; if Starter just clicks or interior lights go OFF, turn off ignition and measure Voltage at Jumpstart Terminals AGAIN; if it has fallen to ~ 10.5V or less, you battery has failed internally.
8) IF you need to replace your Exide, get Walmart H8.
9) Check back for installation details.

YOU can do this if you just take the time to understand the basics, and the DETAILS/CONCEPTS. Any car you will ever own for decades will have a battery, so might as well learn how to diagnose and maintain the Power Supply and Charging System. You will save yourself a LOT of grief in the future.

There ARE some tricks to determining WHAT the Power Management system is set to for the Battery Type and Battery Capacity. BMW Software such as INPA or ISTA can provide that data. ANYONE could have changed that "Setting" with proper software since the vehicle left the factory, so ultimately that SETTING should be determined, and changed if necessary. If the setting is NOT correct for the current or replacement battery, the Starter will still crank the engine. The engine will run (if NO other faults) regardless of incorrect setting. BUT the charging system may NOT properly charge the battery.

George
Appreciate 0
      11-09-2020, 02:03 PM   #21
Domo55
New Member
0
Rep
12
Posts

Drives: 2008 BMW 328i
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: Texas

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by gbalthrop View Post
MI'm confused (by YOUR posts so far, as opposed to senility ;-)
Your first post showed a Green Battery that was VERY small. It only extended ~ 1" beyond the brace over the battery, and the hold-down behind the battery appeared to be in the 3rd threaded hole from the rear.
Your LAST post shows a White Exide battery with 90 Ah rating that appears to be H7 or possibly even H8 in case size. THAT is the size and Ah capacity you NEED if you have to replace THAT battery.
Is the WHITE battery the one that is NOW in your vehicle?
IF SO, I would try slow charging THAT Battery (at the Jumpstart Terminals under the hood), and see if it will accept and hold a charge.

IF you have to replace the White Battery, the Walmart H8 battery I linked is the cheapest replacement of a "Correctly-sized" battery for your vehicle. $130 for a battery with 3-year free replacement, and additional 2 years pro-rata replacement Warranty. ANY Walmart sells them. Large Walmarts have one in stock.

As for the concern about proper function of the charging system, GET THE $7 DMM.

We have to get your battery charged/changed to Start the Engine, to MEASURE SYSTEM VOLTAGE with the DMM, with Engine Running and Alternator Charging (hopefully ;-)

SUMMARY of what I would do:
1) Get a $7 Multimeter;
2) Beg, borrow, Buy ($40 at HFT) a battery charger;
3) Try charging the current battery (particularly if it's the White Exide);
4) Slow Charge at 6-Amp charge rate for 12 hours, reducing to 2-Amp charge rate (slide switch on Charger) for an additional 12 hours.
4a) If you need to remove the battery to take it inside or to a shop to charge it, let us know and we can give Step-by-Step instructions on removal so you don't damage something. There are some hidden "gotcha's" to avoid.
5) Remove charger and wait 30 minutes (for "surface charge" to subside);
6) Measure Voltage at Jumpstart Terminals and record value;
7) If Voltage 12.2V or more, attempt to crank starter; if Starter just clicks or interior lights go OFF, turn off ignition and measure Voltage at Jumpstart Terminals AGAIN; if it has fallen to ~ 10.5V or less, you battery has failed internally.
8) IF you need to replace your Exide, get Walmart H8.
9) Check back for installation details.

YOU can do this if you just take the time to understand the basics, and the DETAILS/CONCEPTS. Any car you will ever own for decades will have a battery, so might as well learn how to diagnose and maintain the Power Supply and Charging System. You will save yourself a LOT of grief in the future.

There ARE some tricks to determining WHAT the Power Management system is set to for the Battery Type and Battery Capacity. BMW Software such as INPA or ISTA can provide that data. ANYONE could have changed that "Setting" with proper software since the vehicle left the factory, so ultimately that SETTING should be determined, and changed if necessary. If the setting is NOT correct for the current or replacement battery, the Starter will still crank the engine. The engine will run (if NO other faults) regardless of incorrect setting. BUT the charging system may NOT properly charge the battery.

George
Sorry for the confusion. I no longer have the white battery. That was the battery I had before I took it to the mechanic and he replaced the white battery with the small green one u see in the original post. I am interested in buying the replacement one u suggested. If u have any YouTube videos you suggest on how to remove the old battery and place the new one I'd appreciate that. Also when using the DMM once I get the new battery am I still looking for the 12v or more to insure if the charging system is working? Is it the same process as u listed above. And how will I determine the correct power management setting for my new battery?
Appreciate 0
      11-09-2020, 02:10 PM   #22
Tunafish
Banned
United_States
252
Rep
851
Posts

Drives: BMW 335i N55
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: Home

iTrader: (0)

Actually this battery is the cheapest correct size battery.. Plus it is an original manufacturer for BMW batteries which can be sourced locally.. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Exide-SP...5-49/308488577


https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...=1604952731160

Last edited by Tunafish; 11-09-2020 at 02:18 PM..
Appreciate 1
Domo550.00
Reply

Bookmarks

Tags
328i, bmw

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:55 PM.




e90post
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
1Addicts.com, BIMMERPOST.com, E90Post.com, F30Post.com, M3Post.com, ZPost.com, 5Post.com, 6Post.com, 7Post.com, XBimmers.com logo and trademark are properties of BIMMERPOST