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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > General E90 Sedan / E91 Wagon / E92 Coupe / E93 Cabrio > Clutch Engagement



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      09-23-2021, 05:42 AM   #1
clubracer6
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Clutch Engagement

Just picked up an exceptionally well maintained stock 08 335i and the clutch engagement is not right.

I essentially have to put the clutch all the way to the floor to shift as the clutch grabs almost immediately when coming off the floor. Overall the feel is not smooth and linear. It does grab and hold well. I was told it should be the original clutch. The car had 73k on it. Thanks!
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      09-23-2021, 07:14 AM   #2
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First thing I would do is get the fluid changed. If the clutch was not abused, then it is only half way through its life.
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      09-23-2021, 07:40 AM   #3
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Check for a clutch stop. The popular ones have 3 "washers" on them. Often times leaving all 3 puts the bottom of travel right at the engagement point. Some like this, I do not. I have 2 of the "washers" on mine.
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      09-23-2021, 01:18 PM   #4
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Thanks guys. He said he changed the fluid annually. Maybe he was doing it wrong.

Also, pretty sure the clutch stop is stock, but will check.

Thanks!
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      09-23-2021, 01:37 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ppointer View Post
First thing I would do is get the fluid changed. If the clutch was not abused, then it is only half way through its life.

This.

At only 73k miles, the clutch should last a long time. As for changing the point where it engages, I don't have anything that helps. I'm not sure, but if there is an adjustment point, it would be at the Slave Cylinder.

EDIT
I have a Bentley Manual for my '94 325, there is no reference to any clutch adjustment. It does say that if the pedal is close to the floor then bleeding the fluid is something that you need to do. The clutch fluid is also the brake fluid, the clutch master cylinder has rubber o-rings inside that can leak, this would put the pedal very low to the floor, and the clutch would grab quickly as you lift your foot. You can have air in the slave, too. This would compress as the pedal goes down, and the clutch would grab very early as you lift off of the pedal. So, bleeding the hydraulic system should be Step 1.

Last edited by jdstrickland; 09-23-2021 at 01:46 PM..
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      09-23-2021, 02:53 PM   #6
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I should add that at the very top of the travel it is very soft. Almost falls for the first could inches or travel and then feels harder than normal.
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      09-23-2021, 02:55 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdstrickland View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by ppointer View Post
First thing I would do is get the fluid changed. If the clutch was not abused, then it is only half way through its life.

This.

At only 73k miles, the clutch should last a long time. As for changing the point where it engages, I don't have anything that helps. I'm not sure, but if there is an adjustment point, it would be at the Slave Cylinder.

EDIT
I have a Bentley Manual for my '94 325, there is no reference to any clutch adjustment. It does say that if the pedal is close to the floor then bleeding the fluid is something that you need to do. The clutch fluid is also the brake fluid, the clutch master cylinder has rubber o-rings inside that can leak, this would put the pedal very low to the floor, and the clutch would grab quickly as you lift your foot. You can have air in the slave, too. This would compress as the pedal goes down, and the clutch would grab very early as you lift off of the pedal. So, bleeding the hydraulic system should be Step 1.
Thanks! Just talked to a mechanic buddy or mine and he did not think it was fluid. That said, it's worth a try.
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      09-23-2021, 04:41 PM   #8
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Try bleeding for sure first. Twice in fact. But if you don’t get satisfaction the weep hole in your master may be gummed up so it won’t allow extra fluid to pass freely to the slave. That’s what maintains the self-adjust as the clutch wears. If I were to replace a master I would replace the slave as well. I did so on my e34 M5, at about your same mileage, and the same exact problem was permanently fixed.
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      09-23-2021, 05:54 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdstrickland View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by ppointer View Post
First thing I would do is get the fluid changed. If the clutch was not abused, then it is only half way through its life.


At only 73k miles, the clutch should last a long time. As for changing the point where it engages, I don't have anything that helps. I'm not sure, but if there is an adjustment point, it would be at the Slave Cylinder.
We have self adjusting clutches so, adjustment shouldn't be necessary.
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      09-23-2021, 05:55 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clubracer6 View Post
I should add that at the very top of the travel it is very soft. Almost falls for the first could inches or travel and then feels harder than normal.
This sounds like a hydraulic issue to me.
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      09-23-2021, 09:52 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave92N54 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by clubracer6 View Post
I should add that at the very top of the travel it is very soft. Almost falls for the first could inches or travel and then feels harder than normal.
This sounds like a hydraulic issue to me.
So you agree, bleed the system?
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      09-23-2021, 11:08 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clubracer6 View Post
Just picked up an exceptionally well maintained stock 08 335i and the clutch engagement is not right.

I essentially have to put the clutch all the way to the floor to shift as the clutch grabs almost immediately when coming off the floor. Overall the feel is not smooth and linear. It does grab and hold well. I was told it should be the original clutch. The car had 73k on it. Thanks!
Haven't done any clutch adjustment on BMW, but bleed the fluid first to see any improvement. You may also need to tighten up the free play. If you have to push the pedal all the way to shift, then the bite point will be as soon as you release the pedal. It's due to too much free play.
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      09-24-2021, 11:40 AM   #13
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If you do bleed the clutch, make sure you follow the proper procedure. I haven't done mine but everyone who has done this swears by the pressure bleeders. It's important to keep the reservoir topped off, and the pressure bleeder accomplishes that. If it was incorrectly bled in the past, you might just have a little air trapped.
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      09-25-2021, 08:00 AM   #14
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Bleeding depends on the fluid being able to get past the master and down to the slave. If a pressure bleeder does not seem to be able to push fluid out the slave vent then that is further evidence the master bypass hole is gummed up, which would explain all your symptoms. IMO pressure bleeders are great for full fluid change-overs and one manning it, but you really need to work the cylinders the old fashioned way to do a thorough job.
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      09-27-2021, 03:27 PM   #15
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Really appreciate everyone's input and I do have an update.

The short version is it appears to be much better and actually improving with each drive.

The PO bought the new M3 (the beaver teeef one) and this E90 had been sitting for about a month before I bought it. He also did not drive it much before as he had a company car. I drove it from DC to Cincinnati, but that was mostly highway. This weekend I drove it a bit, including a lot of stop and go in the Chicago burbs and it feels much better. I still find the initial pressure to be light, but then heavier resistance before being very easy before getting to the floor. The engagement point is a bit more natural now. I'll keep driving it and see how it goes.

Thanks again all!
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