[Titanium3Series]

Hello all,
I walked out to my 330 this morning and stuck the key in the slot, pressed the start button and nothing.

Radio came on as it always does when you insert they key into the slot. Usually when you press the start button without the brake engaged it will enter into ignition mode where all the dash lights come on. The car does not do that, it seems as though the start button is not responding to any of the presses.

Tested battery with a load tester my friend has and tried jumping the car even though all the interior lights were bright, radio has no issue playing, and my amp and sub has no problems playing. So I have of course ruled out battery/starter....problem is car is not responding to presses of the start button, or not doing anything with that signal from the button.

Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks in advanced for any advice!

[ctuna]

Check the ground strap between the engine and chassis.
Located on the driver side near the starter motor.
If you live in a place that salts the roads or has high humidity
and rust rates this often goes out.

Beyond that best to get Inpa and Ista diags.

How did you establish is was not the batter or starter?

[Titanium3Series]

Originally Posted by ctuna

Check the ground strap between the engine and chassis.
Located on the driver side near the starter motor.
If you live in a place that salts the roads or has high humidity
and rust rates this often goes out.

Beyond that best to get Inpa and Ista diags.

How did you establish is was not the batter or starter?

Is this the strap that runs from next to the coils to around the passenger side strut tower? I just checked that strap and it looks extremely clean and is really strong. No corrosion at the ends.

My buddy has a nice autometer battery load tester, that tests the battery under a load. It is an agm battery less than 3 months from manufacturing date.

Also the sub woofer ran strong so it sounds as though it has more than ample power. We also tried jumping it via the jump points under the hood.

I have inpa but my buddy has my cable....it also worries me that inpa might not work because I cannot get the car into ignition mode.

[ctuna]

As far as I know its down low on the US driver side close to the starter
at the bottom of the motor. Runs between Firewall on Drivers side
and bottom of the motor.

Did you reprogram the car for agm when you put the battery in?

https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1444544

[Titanium3Series]

Originally Posted by ctuna

As far as I know its down low on the US driver side close to the starter
at the bottom of the motor. Runs between Firewall on Drivers side
and bottom of the motor.

Did you reprogram the car for agm when you put the battery in?

https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1444544

Battery was reset and programmed to agm.

Also I read that with the ground strap everything works but it does not start.

My problem is car won't go into ignition(ACC) mode. So it doesn't even have the chance of getting power the starter.

Ctuna I really appreciate you taking the time and throwing ideas at me.

[ctuna]

If you have no power follow the voltage out from the battery
to each of the 4 lines or is it 5 lines that go foward from the battery distribution box. Since you said its been raining hard in the other thread a visual for water leaking inside is in order.


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[mrucker71]

I'm curious, have you checked your ignition fuse? it may be as simple as that.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by Titanium3Series

I walked out to my 330 this morning and stuck the key in the slot, pressed the start button and nothing. Radio came on as it always does when you insert they key into the slot. Usually when you press the start button without the brake engaged it will enter into ignition mode where all the dash lights come on. The car does not do that, it seems as though the start button is not responding to any of the presses.

You don't need INPA or your K+DCAN cable to test for a bad K6300 DME Relay -- just a DMM. Here is the TIS Circuit Diagram for the Power Supply to the DME for your 2006 330i:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...supply/i4RGgA7

Here is the Installation Location for that relay, K6300 on your vehicle:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...i-lim/H2p1xfX3

Note that the DME "turns itself on" by providing a ground signal to the electromagnet of K6300 via Pin #13 of Connector X60005. So I would test K6300 for proper operation, and if it operates properly when 12V+ & ground are applied to the proper pins, then test to see if ground is being applied from pin #13 above, and why not.

George

[Ruedaloca]

I'm having same issue exactly... I'll be following this for whatever you post the solution or me if I can find the reason.
I'll check the K6300.

[Titanium3Series]

Originally Posted by Ruedaloca

I'm having same issue exactly... I'll be following this for whatever you post the solution or me if I can find the reason.
I'll check the K6300.

I meant to do that this weekend but have a newborn so I decided to get in some sleep instead of investigating.

I'll get to is this week sometime. I'll keep you posted and hopefully vise versa. There was definitely some good diagrams that were shared between these 2 threads.

[Ruedaloca]

Originally Posted by Titanium3Series

I meant to do that this weekend but have a newborn so I decided to get in some sleep instead of investigating.

I'll get to is this week sometime. I'll keep you posted and hopefully vise versa. There was definitely some good diagrams that were shared between these 2 threads.

I do understand, I do have a baby boy too, and that is why I just removed and tested my K6300 and it working.... sad I hoped it was the reason for my case, but no. Anyway I found a blowed 30A fuse in the DME box, I have no idea for what it is.

[Titanium3Series]

Originally Posted by Ruedaloca

I do understand, I do have a baby boy too, and that is why I just removed and tested my K6300 and it working.... sad I hoped it was the reason for my case, but no. Anyway I found a blowed 30A fuse in the DME box, I have no idea for what it is.

Did you replace the fuse?

[Ruedaloca]

Ok , recovered the ignition! Finally , i just disconnected and checked the connections in the DME box , the blowed fuse was for the coolant pump. Tested all the relays there and all of them were working fine... at least when tested , put everything back again in place and now the car goes to Ignition, All lights coming on , starter is turning and weak cranking but no finally running.
Probably a weak battery.

[Titanium3Series]

An update:

06 330i would not enter into ignition (stage 2) of starting. Once the key was inserted into the dash a press of the start button did nothing. No dash lights(except airbag/brake). Radio, lights and windows still worked. I ended up tracking the issue down to the ibs sensor.

If I unplugged the ibs sensor from the positive battery assembly(blue plug) the car would go into ignition and start up just fine. Once I plugged it back in the car would not enter into ignition, or even attempt to start. Ibs is telling the car to not even try even though battery is 100%

I had a hard time finding the symptoms that exactly described mine...so I hope this helps someone in the future.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by Titanium3Series

An update: 06 330i would not enter into ignition (stage 2) of starting. Once the key was inserted into the dash a press of the start button did nothing. No dash lights(except airbag/brake). Radio, lights and windows still worked. I ended up tracking the issue down to the ibs sensor. If I unplugged the ibs sensor from the positive battery assembly(blue plug) the car would go into ignition and start up just fine.I had a hard time finding the symptoms that exactly described mine...so I hope this helps someone in the future.

It would add to the Forum knowledge/diagnostics base if you would get your K+DCAN cable from your "buddy" (you said a month ago he had borrowed your cable so you couldn't check for codes with INPA) and see if there is still a code in your DME memory related to the IBS, or perhaps since it affected START button function, there is a code in CAS. I and others on the Forum would be interested in knowing what Codes are present. That would also be helpful in determining if you should replace your IBS, if you have a fault in the BSD bus, or what.

You might also simply try unplugging the IBS from the BSD connector, plugging the IBS back into the Power Supply, and see if you can get Ignition function that way.

If you DO need to replace your IBS (~$200 part), you need to make sure you have the part number that should be on a label on the IBS body, AND is also available electronically using INPA: DME | F5 | F5 | F1 (ID-IBS). Just put "61-12" in front of the 7 digit number shown in that screen as the part# or "Teilenummer." That number will have been superseded, but you can find the superseding number in RealOEM. Since different models use different IBS modules, you want to make sure you have the correct one for your vehicle.

Thanks,
George