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ER cp won't stop blowing off the d*!$ fmic piping
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06-18-2018, 07:19 PM | #1 |
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ER cp won't stop blowing off the d*!$ fmic piping
I'm sure this has been talked about before but I'm fed up with this car today after multiple trips to the auto store, broken clamps, and a piece of shit coupler.
So here's the deal. I'm aware that getting aftermarket charge pipes to fit properly with the stock fmic is just a pain in general but has anyone else delt with the thing continuously popping off? I've got an ER cp with synapse BOV bought off here so it didn't come with the "ER" coupler. I've broken 2 T-clamps in the process of tightening down the 2.5"x3" vibrant performance coupler and it just keeps coming off on a 16psi map even after moving the coupler over the bead of the fmic piping. Anyone got a better solution than just continuously reattaching or not going fast? 'cause we all know no one wants to go slow in a n54
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06-18-2018, 09:10 PM | #2 |
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Get better tbolt clamps? That's pretty much all there is to stopping it. I run 28psi and early on I had boost spikes to 30 (fixed it now) and my vrsf charge pipe stays on just fine. All my intercooler piping and bolts stay on too.
Fyi, over and under tightening can cause the pipes to blow off. Make sure you torque it to 75in lbs. That's about the standard for most tbolt clamps. |
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06-18-2018, 11:22 PM | #3 |
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just ordered some probably better fitting clamps from amazon and i'll be sure to torque them to that spec thanks!
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06-19-2018, 01:22 AM | #4 | |
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Quote:
As for the torque specs its what I found online and I torqued mine to it. It did leak a little at 30psi on my boost leak test, but another 1/2 turn solved that for me so just use your best judgement and avoid over tightening too much since that also can cause the bolts to slip off the couplers (sounds strange but it happens). Since your not running high boost like me with aftermarket turbos I'm sure that torque spec workout good as long as those amazon clamps fit. |
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06-19-2018, 05:56 AM | #5 |
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If the clamp is breaking from you tightening it that is a crap clamp. And just for clarity, you should be placing the clamp behind the bead, not on it.
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06-19-2018, 06:54 AM | #6 | |
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06-19-2018, 02:41 PM | #7 | |
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As for buying the ER fmic that is coming up soon!
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06-19-2018, 02:51 PM | #8 | |
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Quote:
I had mine pop off and as posted make sure you place the clamp behind the lip.
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06-19-2018, 03:07 PM | #9 | |
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06-19-2018, 03:11 PM | #10 |
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If the coupler is between the Lower CP and Upper CP - You want the clamps towards the edge of the couplers, "Behind" the beads.
Think of the bead as an O ring or seal. If you have the clamp "in front" there is no seal. |
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06-20-2018, 12:56 PM | #11 |
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I have this problem as well using a different brand CP. I went down and got normal hose clamps for mine, they are thinner and so have more pressure on the coupler when tightened to the same level. They are holding much better than the T clamps for me.
I think a lot of the problem with mine popping off is my motor mounts with 120k on them are allowing a lot of engine movement, stretching this connection. |
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06-20-2018, 01:20 PM | #12 |
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T bolt clamps suck. get some quality worm gear clamps and you can also use hair spray as suggested above.
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