[deeLow]

Originally Posted by mex2309

How hard was the driveshaft to remove? Pain in the butt?

Easy. 4 etorx bolts and that's it.

[Rival]

what gasket for a 06 325I, also what filter?

[Rival]

Originally Posted by Rival

what gasket for a 06 325I, also what filter?

will this work

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E90-325...ion/ES2586355/

[wetber]

Thanks for the DYI..very helpful!

[Chriztofor]

Replaced transmision oil at 133,000 miles. Everyhthing is fine. Noticed smoother shifts. Used this fluid (spec cheet shows it is allowed for my trans; always check the spec sheet):

[GB-335xiCoupe]

My transmission is much smoother after the fluid change at 103k miles, but I mostly attribute it to the Alpina B3 flash Bob did for me at the same time... Now it's at almost 119k miles, and no trouble yet...

[PeterLech]

Originally Posted by iflyjetzzz

You really know your stuff!

Thanks much; the dealer confirmed that I have a GM GA6L-45R transmission. Also confirmed by this VIN decoder: http://www.bmw-z1.com/VIN/VINdecode-e.cgi
And I jacked up my car and confirmed by the plate on the transmission that it's a GM transmission.

....

Just wanted to add that on my 1995 E34 with the GM Strasbourg tranny, I switched over to Pentosin ATF 1 at 120K miles, after regular changes every 30K miles. Tranny shifts improved measurably, much smoother even though they were good before. Worth the $17/liter cost, IMO.

Sold car at 170K, tranny still working perfectly, ZERO repairs.

Now considering it for my E90, which is a ZF, of course.

[devildogae]

FYI, I bought a 06 E90 330XI model couple months ago. The transmission would shift very hard and jerky. After much research I decided to change my automatic transmission fluid via a drain and fill procedure. I used Dexron XI from the dealer @ $11 bucks a quart/liter. I bought 4 liters and drained just over 4 liters after measuring volume. I replaced fluid with all new fluid + small amount of old fluid to set levels correct. I then reset transmission adaptation via INPA and it no longer shifts roughly. It's shifting points are completely different and so much smoother now. The "lifetime fluid was black when it came out. Very happy with results. I also changed transfer case fluid while I had the support bracket off. That was black as well from what I remember.

[allotherareused]

hi guys
My BMW 320d (2005) is at aprox 100 miles (160 km) and I've notice shift is not smooth anymore.

As I am in Chile have hard time to find appropriate fluid, that seems I can use Motul, according to spec this fit :
you may find BMW #83220142516 and also M1375.4 in this spec (look under Land Rover for second one)

My question is :
anyone have used this fluid and have something to add ? I first time hear about "Motul" ATF after 2 hour on google

Edit:
That seems no one added this ZF video

Edit:
I just did it today, in sum less than 3 hour together with differential oil change. Will not repeat what is already clearly explained just impression and 2 details no one mentioned before :

1. I didn't change filter because filter price is something like 120 US$ and as I am in Chile my only source is BMW dealer which want to sell this for 900 US$ (!!! they don't want us to maintain car, they want us to buy new car). Anyway, I've decided to remove filter in order to clean and that was good decision, there are like 0.5 - 1 l more oil to drain when you are removing filter, also, cleaning magnets is something that you should do if you are not changing filter.

2. That was surprise to me that after like 3.5 l that was "full". Well, after rest of procedure, run the motor, shift all positions, let it in parking position ... like 2 more liter were needed (5.5 in sum). When I've left car in parking position and started to add more oil temperature were like 52 C, as I were adding more this lower to something like 45 C.

And finally impression :
I've bough used car on like 120 K KM (75 ml) and this is now on 160 K (100 ml). Last year I've notice this is not smooth and when I am about to stop shifting (automatic shifting, position D) from 4 -> 3 -> 2 were notable. Now all symptoms disappear, everything is working very smooth.

[Rival]

well since i ended up waiting til winter in chicago and its 32 deg outside i went with a shop to do the labor.

Bought parts from ECS & summit racing, was charged 185 for labor. I was afraid of the temp portion of the swap. I didnt want to have to head my garage for 5hrs and then change the fluid.


eveything GTG. PM my if your in NW chicago burbs for the shop.

[Kenneykickin]

Why do you have to remove fill plug first?

[allotherareused]

Originally Posted by Kenneykickin

Why do you have to remove fill plug first?

in order to drain this and not ruin everything around
if you have this open drain will be smooth, else, air need to enter in same hole

[Kango]

Originally Posted by Kenneykickin

Why do you have to remove fill plug first?

Originally Posted by allotherareused

in order to drain this and not ruin everything around
if you have this open drain will be smooth, else, air need to enter in same hole

It's also just in case you can't take off the fill plug after you drained it. Then you be really screwed.

[Kenneykickin]

How should I go about taking off the drive shaft I have the xi and drive shaft in way off fill plug

[Kenneykickin]

Please help


I just did my pan and filter change.

As I was filling new fluid into the fill hole it started seeping out so I put the fill plug back in.

Tried starting the car while it's still on jack stands but it won't let me get out of park and there is absolutely no play in the shifter.

Is it just a safety thing that Bmw did while car is on jack stands?

Or is something else wrong?

Please help

[rahlo1]

Just did the trans flush on my 325 xi. Thanks to this thread I was able to get it done in about 2 hrs. I contacted a few guys on the forum and they gave me a few places to call but the prices were outrageous one guy said it would take him six hours at $100/hr������. Just wanted to say thanks for the DIY

[PeterLech]

Originally Posted by PeterLech

Just wanted to add that on my 1995 E34 with the GM Strasbourg tranny, I switched over to Pentosin ATF 1 at 120K miles, after regular changes every 30K miles. Tranny shifts improved measurably, much smoother even though they were good before. Worth the $17/liter cost, IMO.

Sold car at 170K, tranny still working perfectly, ZERO repairs.

Now considering it for my E90, which is a ZF, of course.

Update: I emailed ZF and they said DO NOT USE Pentosin on the their tranny in the 328i.

[94boosted]

Can anyone confirm whether or not this fluid is acceptable instead of LifeGuard 6/Shell M1375.4/Mercon SP. Looks like a lower cost alternative to the LG 6 fluid and it does list "BMW M1375.4" on the back of the bottle.

http://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/8537...1-Liter-34608/

If so can I mix the fluids? I'm doing pan/filter change but not a full flush so I know there will be some fluid left in the torque converter.

[94boosted]

^Spoke with RM European and they confirmed this fluid is compatible and can be mixed with the factory fluid, and they sell it for an even better price.

http://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/8...G36-V4173.aspx

[Sgop335]

Originally Posted by 94boosted

^Spoke with RM European and they confirmed this fluid is compatible and can be mixed with the factory fluid, and they sell it for an even better price.

http://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/8...G36-V4173.aspx

Great price, hope its correct. I been using ravenol atf but its $15.

[Soul_Glo]

Thanks for this guide. I followed this and changed out my ATF. I used Liqui-Moly ATF 1800 (equivalent of Lifeguard 6/7) and reset the adaptations using autologic. I let the pan drain and I got about 5 litres out. I ran through the gears... and have been driving it gently since. It feels like new! I thought about flushing it again and adding some more fluid so it would have been 80-90% new fluid but I was really happy with what the 5 litres have done so I have left it be.

Mine was a bit easier to do because there is tiny window on the side of my sump so I could see the level increasing as I filled it. I measured exactly 5 out so I put exactly 5 back in. I guess there is 1-2 more liters to be had by draining it over night rather than the day.

Beautiful! Feels like brand new! Great DIY!

[hardr85]

I just wanted pass my experience on so it might help others. There are a lot of posts on here with people having trouble with the fluid level/amount they could get back in.

You have to take the fluid temperature into consideration when draining and filling. The tranny fluid gets thicker when it gets hotter.

I did a drain and fill, then a month or two later changed the pan and 5 more quarts. The first drain and fill, I used INPA to monitor temp. The second time, I checked the temp with INPA before I topped it off, but did not monitor.

Cut to several months later, I have a slip going from 5 to 6 over 3K rpm. Normal driving is OK, and I have a delay going into reverse.

Not monitoring the fluid temp during the filter change made the temp go above desired range. it took longer to get the fluid in, and I believe I started with the temp in the 40's C range. I am sure the temp got too hot, because I just checked the fluid yesterday after several months of driving, and it took another quart. This time I started at 30C and ended at 35C.

There is a post somewhere here that has pics of Bentley manual stating that it is best to check fluid level at 30C for it to be most accurate.

Make sure and monitor your temp during the top off/fill procedure to get proper amount in tranny.

I just hope I didn't do any permanent damage.