[335e92tx]

Originally Posted by alexristainoN54

Haven't even looked at them yet but here they are. Did two short runs which I know isn't ideal but there is too much damn traffic.

run 1
https://datazap.me/u/alexristaino/e3...og=0&data=3-20

run 2

https://datazap.me/u/alexristaino/e3...og=0&data=3-20


Also noob question. So only Sphinx sells e85 and their gas sucks so I get my 93 octane a mile down the road. Would it be stupid to put 93 octane in then drive a mile to mix my E85 in?
Or should I just invest in a gas can?

Do the drive. It will get moisture in it otherwise. Its also easier to make sure you get the right mix.

[RoughKnight]

https://datazap.me/u/roughknight/log...-6-14-15-22-26

Got a good 3rd gear pull finally (left DTC on by accident) only pulling 3 degrees of timing until I hit around 6100rpm then I'm at 6. I'm on the 91OCT tune stage 1 running CAN94 gas. Should I downgrade the tune or am I fine where i'm at? Can I push it further safely? my IAT spikes too high I think to continue with a stage 1+

[335e92tx]

Originally Posted by RoughKnight

https://datazap.me/u/roughknight/log...-6-14-15-22-26

Got a good 3rd gear pull finally (left DTC on by accident) only pulling 3 degrees of timing until I hit around 6100rpm then I'm at 6. I'm on the 91OCT tune stage 1 running CAN94 gas. Should I downgrade the tune or am I fine where i'm at? Can I push it further safely? my IAT spikes too high I think to continue with a stage 1+

Well, I was just looking at your previous one. IATs are rising 40+ degrees in 11secs. Thats a lot. So this isnt the Can map? I would try it. The can gas is not the best. And even 91 cali gas can be better.

IATs are still up 15c in 5 secs in the most recent log


You are also hitting boost target and its closing the throttle.

Its not as bad in the more recent log.

[335e92tx]

Originally Posted by N54rsenal

Did a couple of 3rd gear pulls to redline, how do they look?

3rd@20mph
https://datazap.me/u/n54rsenal/pull1-20?log=0&data=3-21

3rd@30mph
https://datazap.me/u/n54rsenal/pull2-30?log=0&data=3-21

Notes
Only about 535nm of torque w MHDS2+93?
Throttle dips - I reset throttle body adaptations did a few pulls before this and they were worse. Traction off
I got the VSRF DP Fix installed and out of nowhere these O2's codes just keep coming back after 50miles or more, on #7pm o'clock position was on 6pm before and codes came faster. Maybe its time to try position 8pm?
2C31 2C32 2C6C 2DED, I'm driving with tune on, so much mixed info on removing DP Fix or keeping or turning tune off to pass emission can't get catalyst to complete or evap.
My LPFP is not doing good?

Actually it looks pretty good. I can t offer much about the codes. But the pump is marginal. I dont see it affecting much. Trims are good. And the HP pump is not dropping down much.

Dont run it to 6700+. Shift at about 6250-6500 and get some load in the next gear for a few secs.

[alexristainoN54]

Originally Posted by 335e92tx

Do the drive. It will get moisture in it otherwise. Its also easier to make sure you get the right mix.

That's what I did this afternoon and nothing blew up haha. thanks for the input

[RoughKnight]

Originally Posted by 335e92tx

Well, I was just looking at your previous one. IATs are rising 40+ degrees in 11secs. Thats a lot. So this isnt the Can map? I would try it. The can gas is not the best. And even 91 cali gas can be better.

IATs are still up 15c in 5 secs in the most recent log


You are also hitting boost target and its closing the throttle.

Its not as bad in the more recent log.

Stupid question, but having the traction control on might be some of these issues? I guess the IAT rising means its too aggressive of a tune? I'm on the 91Oct map now. A FMIC upgrade would probably solve this? I guess you mean the car is closing the throttle by itself, my foot was firmly on the floor. Thanks again!

[335e92tx]

Originally Posted by RoughKnight

Stupid question, but having the traction control on might be some of these issues?

Eh, if the TC was doing it you would see the Torque limit active value register something other than zero as it intervened.

I guess the IAT rising means its too aggressive of a tune? I'm on the 91Oct map now. A FMIC upgrade would probably solve this?

Yep, start with an IC. Is the current one Factory?

I guess you mean the car is closing the throttle by itself, my foot was firmly on the floor. Thanks again!

Yep, when the DME detects it has hit load target, it will reduce load. And V8 maps start with closing throttle some - slightly more aggressive than v7 maps. Maybe try the V7 version of CN91 and see what that does. Canada doesnt have very good gas... Even cali gas is better most times.

[RoughKnight]

Originally Posted by 335e92tx

Eh, if the TC was doing it you would see the Torque limit active value register something other than zero as it intervened.



Yep, start with an IC. Is the current one Factory?



Yep, when the DME detects it has hit load target, it will reduce load. And V8 maps start with closing throttle some - slightly more aggressive than v7 maps. Maybe try the V7 version of CN91 and see what that does. Canada doesnt have very good gas... Even cali gas is better most times.

Thanks! I reflashed the v8 map this morning, i'm going to reflash the v7 map on can94 and go from there. IC is my first upgrade I guess. VRSF is gonna have themselves a sale in the near future haha

[335e92tx]

PDF from the MHD manual

https://www.docdroid.net/IyQ24N5/int...d-datalogs.pdf

[type-dRew]

Originally Posted by RoughKnight

Thanks! I reflashed the v8 map this morning, i'm going to reflash the v7 map on can94 and go from there. IC is my first upgrade I guess. VRSF is gonna have themselves a sale in the near future haha

For the money, quality and free shipping, the PSP 600 is extremely worth while.

If you have a few extra dollars, the 750 id say is just about perfect for any amount of power on stock turbos. I have the 750 and it's well worth the cost of entry.

https://fasterbypinnacle.com/product...c-intercooler/

Also, my car had corrections and throttle closures on the V8 maps, it felt fast but when I flashed V7, no more closures and fewer timing corrections and my dragy runs improved along with drive ability(IMO).

[RoughKnight]

Originally Posted by type-dRew

For the money, quality and free shipping, the PSP 600 is extremely worth while.

If you have a few extra dollars, the 750 id say is just about perfect for any amount of power on stock turbos. I have the 750 and it's well worth the cost of entry.

https://fasterbypinnacle.com/product...c-intercooler/

Also, my car had corrections and throttle closures on the V8 maps, it felt fast but when I flashed V7, no more closures and fewer timing corrections and my dragy runs improved along with drive ability(IMO).

Thank you for the quick reply! Everybody's been so helpful!

[RoughKnight]

https://datazap.me/u/roughknight/94cdn?log=0&data=3-20
2 Logs in there, one from 2nd/4th the other from 3rd/4th

Back to 94CDN, Stage 1 v7.1 with stock exhaust burble. Shift light doesnt work in manual mode maybe? I think the car is doing better but I think it's still pulling too much timing? Can somebody chime in?

[iSpudd]

https://datazap.me/u/ispudd/log-1555...ata=3-12-22-24

Aftermarket Intake, Charge Pipe, Intercooler. Plugs were changed ~6k miles ago, no history for coils.

This log is at Stage 0. Want to make sure everything looks good before turning it up. I've noticed that cylinders 4 & 6 have -3 timing correction at one point. Is this normal?

Thank you!

[335e92tx]

Originally Posted by iSpudd

https://datazap.me/u/ispudd/log-1555...ata=3-12-22-24

Aftermarket Intake, Charge Pipe, Intercooler. Plugs were changed ~6k miles ago, no history for coils.

This log is at Stage 0. Want to make sure everything looks good before turning it up. I've noticed that cylinders 4 & 6 have -3 timing correction at one point. Is this normal?

Thank you!

eh, its kinda of hard to infer anything with the OEM bins (which S0 really doesnt change that I know of). There are so many corrections and throttle closures at all the wrong times its hard to deduce anything. You got timing retards at low boost and throttle closures right after the shift. I get the impression this is an n55. Please make sure that is noted when you go S1 and higher.

I would say go ahead and kick it to S1 and come back soon ;-)

[iSpudd]

Originally Posted by 335e92tx

eh, its kinda of hard to infer anything with the OEM bins (which S0 really doesnt change that I know of). There are so many corrections and throttle closures at all the wrong times its hard to deduce anything. You got timing retards at low boost and throttle closures right after the shift. I get the impression this is an n55. Please make sure that is noted when you go S1 and higher.

I would say go ahead and kick it to S1 and come back soon ;-)

Correct, this is an n55. I went ahead and flashed Stage 1+ and took two more logs. I'm now seeing additional and increased timing corrections, and the rail pressure appears to be spiking and dropping rapidly. Thoughts?

https://datazap.me/u/ispudd/log-1555...og=0&data=3-12
https://datazap.me/u/ispudd/log-1555...og=0&data=3-12

[335e92tx]

Originally Posted by iSpudd

Correct, this is an n55. I went ahead and flashed Stage 1+ and took two more logs. I'm now seeing additional and increased timing corrections, and the rail pressure appears to be spiking and dropping rapidly. Thoughts?

https://datazap.me/u/ispudd/log-1555...og=0&data=3-12
https://datazap.me/u/ispudd/log-1555...og=0&data=3-12

give it some adapt time and relog. What fuel is this ?

Reset lambda control also. Your short term trims are pulling fuel at high rpm but long term trims are adding it..

dont use groc store fuel.. Start with a good brand name to baseline. Should be good air now - you are close to barometeric pressure for sea level. Wait until a cold front just blows thru and you get cool dry air and relog with the best fuel you can - pump 93.

[iSpudd]

Originally Posted by 335e92tx

give it some adapt time and relog. What fuel is this ?

Reset lambda control also. Your short term trims are pulling fuel at high rpm but long term trims are adding it..

dont use groc store fuel.. Start with a good brand name to baseline. Should be good air now - you are close to barometeric pressure for sea level. Wait until a cold front just blows thru and you get cool dry air and relog with the best fuel you can - pump 93.

This is 93 octane from Quick Chek in NY. I haven't heard anything bad about them but I have no problem going somewhere else. There are tons of gas stations in my area, QC is just the closet one to home.

How long does it typically take for it to adapt? I average ~30 miles per day.

I'll go ahead and reset the lambda control and post new logs later in the week. Thank you for reviewing my logs so far!

[335e92tx]

Originally Posted by iSpudd

This is 93 octane from Quick Chek in NY. I haven't heard anything bad about them but I have no problem going somewhere else. There are tons of gas stations in my area, QC is just the closet one to home.

How long does it typically take for it to adapt? I average ~30 miles per day.

I'll go ahead and reset the lambda control and post new logs later in the week. Thank you for reviewing my logs so far!

its more about drive cycles - warm up/full temp/restart after 20mn. Not steady state. Needs to have some cold start light throttle loads then after temp is reached (oil at 160-180) at least 2 pulls to say 80 to make sure cats are hot and inlet temps are close to nominal.
Yes, it could make more power if you just tried to optimize for a certain set of parameters but most n54s and n55s are getting kind of old now. As Oil gets in the chamber they wont behave in a predictable manner and its more likely to get codes. I kind of believe its easier to tune it for a little more wider range of likely parameters and then you wont as likely be surprised or pissed off when it might not perform quite at its absolute max, but it will be more reliable.

I dont get codes on my 13IS . It just runs (and yes, its still screams, 3rd gear from about 75 will peel your face. - I have yet to find an M4/ or C7 vette at that speed but I cant see how it would pull me - its at the limits of traction )

And if you want more boost get a custom tune..

[kmastl]

I recently started working with a tuner on a custom tune (coming from OTS 2+ 93). It's a 2008 535i. Performance mods are upgraded FMIC, downpipes, and DCI. He sent me a "base" tune and asked for a few pulls cruising, 3rd gear, 4th gear and 3-4th run.

To my surprise the "base" tune was running 20lbs of boost and maxing out STFTs.

Healthy (to me) stage 2+ pull
https://datazap.me/u/kmastl/mhd-stag...24&zoom=91-140

"base" tune with STFTs maxed out, 17:1 at 20lbs of boost
https://datazap.me/u/kmastl/4-15-19-...25&zoom=71-129

The tuner reviewed this log and asked if I was running an ethanol mix. Wouldn't the logical next steps be to look at LTFTs and adaptations?

[type-dRew]

Originally Posted by kmastl

I recently started working with a tuner on a custom tune (coming from OTS 2+ 93). It's a 2008 535i. Performance mods are upgraded FMIC, downpipes, and DCI. He sent me a "base" tune and asked for a few pulls cruising, 3rd gear, 4th gear and 3-4th run.

To my surprise the "base" tune was running 20lbs of boost and maxing out STFTs.

Healthy (to me) stage 2+ pull
https://datazap.me/u/kmastl/mhd-stag...24&zoom=91-140

"base" tune with STFTs maxed out, 17:1 at 20lbs of boost
https://datazap.me/u/kmastl/4-15-19-...25&zoom=71-129

The tuner reviewed this log and asked if I was running an ethanol mix. Wouldn't the logical next steps be to look at LTFTs and adaptations?

I think I would drive my car easy until he sent you the next file to work with and go from there, maybe flash back to an OTS map until then. E tuning is hit or miss the first couple maps, its hard to nail down every car especially when they are this old with such sensitive hardware upkeep.

Id definitely let him know you are concerned about what you are seeing, maybe discuss your goals a bit more and see what happens.

[kmastl]

Originally Posted by type-dRew

I think I would drive my car easy until he sent you the next file to work with and go from there, maybe flash back to an OTS map until then. E tuning is hit or miss the first couple maps, its hard to nail down every car especially when they are this old with such sensitive hardware upkeep.

Id definitely let him know you are concerned about what you are seeing, maybe discuss your goals a bit more and see what happens.

Thanks for your response. I did reply back to the tuner about my concerns and was given a response of "Are you running straight 93oct on these logs? As that is what the map is made for. Ir are you running an ethanol mix?"

I told him I was running 93 as I did when I originally purchased the tune. I'm confused why a tuner would jump to blaming fuel as opposed to looking at the more logical cause of LTFTs. This is a red flag to me.

I suspected that maybe the LTFTs were to blame so I added them to the data log and carefully replicated the issue. I could tell that my LTFTs had adapted to an extremely negative value (I suspect from a previous tune). I then reset adaptations and did some light driving. The second log shows things are much happier now (to my untrained eye).

I haven't told the tuner I reset adaptations or did the exploration into LTFTs with my 5th gear test. I'm curious what he recommends I do. Maybe he is watching this thread, IDK. I'm a little upset that I was instructed to just throw on this "base" tune with 20lbs of boost w/o first considering adaptations. I supposed I am part to blame, but a base tune should be extra safe!

Testing LTFTs:
https://datazap.me/u/kmastl/4-16-19-...zoom=1258-1340

After resetting adaptations:
https://datazap.me/u/kmastl/4-16-19-...zoom=1174-1207

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Can someone confirm this is a pretty healthy log or not? 2011 335is 6 speed with 105k KM. Ran Stage2+ without upgraded intercooler to test for 2 runs. Just changed spark plugs and coils to factory Bosch. Finally hitting 0 corrections.

https://datazap.me/u/themidnightnarw...7-8-9-10-11-22