[F31B48]

Hi Guys,
Looking to install a used DME, CAS and key set into my car from a wrecked one. What will i need to do coding wise? I'm guessing i might need to change the VIN in the other pt-can components, like DSC and EGS to match the donor units? Anybody here done this before?

[F31B48]

Nobody ever done this? Think I'm going to bite the bullet and buy this set. My DME is toast and i don't want to buy a new one for $2000 (the car is probably only worth $3k) so am just going to buy this set from the wreckers for $320 and give it a shot.

[dpaul]

The VINs don't matter. Your vehicle will start and run fine.

However, if you use MHD flasher it will no longer function because it is VIN-locked - it will check both DME and CAS but in your case both will be invalid. In addition, in the US, certain states read the DME VIN during inspection and compare it to registered VIN. If Australia has similar procedures, you may have problems with that.

Remember that the DME will likely need to be flashed with WinKFP so that program and calibration data are correct for your vehicle. Similarly, the CAS may need WinKFP flashing and will certainly need NCSExpert coding to write the appropriate VO and set the appropriate options.

[icon2015]

The DME VIN is relatively easy to change when and if you flash it with WinKFP. However, that won't be the real issue. Because you will put a new CAS with a different VIN, the rest of the ecu's will reject important info from CAS and DDE. You will have to change the VIN to at least DSC and perform all the required adjustments. If your car has CIC, you will lose the Navigation option. And so on.

I suggest that you go with your starting kit (DME,CAS, keys) and with your original starting kit to a local bmw garage, and replace only the DME. With proper tools this will be an easy and fast job, that doesn't mean cheap(good tools are expensive). If you do this, you will have your car as it was from the bmw factory gates(regarding ECUs, keys and ECU VINs)(assuming that after this job the garage had flashed and coded DME).

[dpaul]

Originally Posted by icon2015

The DME VIN is relatively easy to change when and if you flash it with WinKFP. However, that won't be the real issue. Because you will put a new CAS with a different VIN, the rest of the ecu's will reject important info from CAS and DDE. You will have to change the VIN to at least DSC and perform all the required adjustments. If your car has CIC, you will lose the Navigation option. And so on.

I suggest that you go with your starting kit (DME,CAS, keys) and with your original starting kit to a local bmw garage, and replace only the DME. With proper tools this will be an easy and fast job, that doesn't mean cheap(good tools are expensive). If you do this, you will have your car as it was from the bmw factory gates(regarding ECUs, keys and ECU VINs)(assuming that after this job the garage had flashed and coded DME).

The DME VIN is easy to change but MHD, if this is a factor for the OP, will not function because it looks only to the VIN in the first entry of the UIF, which of course is not altered using BMW Standard tools.

But Icon105 is correct, the best approach to the problem is to replace only the DME. Since the ISN in the DME can be read but not changed, one must change it in CAS to match the new DME. This cannot be done using BMW Standard tools but AutoHexII and similar tools can do it easily.

Still, if what you need most is to have the car run, the used DME/CAS/key combination will allow it to start and run.

[335i N55]

Hello and good day. I believe my DME in my 2011 335i xDrive (e90) may have just fried. So from what I understand I can just buy a used matched pair (DME and CAS) and the car will run again? No MHD or JB4, just stock.

Or does the cluster not communicate properly then? I'm sorry for the dumb questions, I am in a panic, and reaching for straws.

The car needed a jump, and now there is clicking everywhere from the passenger side fuse box, no crank at all, and no OBD II communication. Brand new battery, and it is fully charged for sure. Sounds like the DME, right?

Thank you for any advice or direction, sincerely panicked,

Patrick

[rjahl]

Originally Posted by 335i N55

Hello and good day. I believe my DME in my 2011 335i xDrive (e90) may have just fried. So from what I understand I can just buy a used matched pair (DME and CAS) and the car will run again? No MHD or JB4, just stock.

Or does the cluster not communicate properly then? I'm sorry for the dumb questions, I am in a panic, and reaching for straws.

The car needed a jump, and now there is clicking everywhere from the passenger side fuse box, no crank at all, and no OBD II communication. Brand new battery, and it is fully charged for sure. Sounds like the DME, right?

Thank you for any advice or direction, sincerely panicked,

Patrick

Nope, does not sound like a DME failure at all.

Look at your primary cables and connections. When you jump started were did you connect the ground cable?

[335i N55]

Originally Posted by rjahl

Nope, does not sound like a DME failure at all.

Look at your primary cables and connections. When you jump started were did you connect the ground cable?

Oh man. The ground was connected to the Ground lug up front.

I have tested all positive leads coming from the positive post to the points they pass the big red distribution block and they have continuity. I then tried unplugging the IBS battery sensor on the Neg just to rule that out. Not that. There is nothing when the start is pushed, except a bunch of relay clicking from "R3" (fuse box type 2, 2011 335i x N55)

Why would there be no OBD II communication then? What does that point to? Thank you for chiming in here, I am in desperate need of an expert.

[rjahl]

Originally Posted by 335i N55

Oh man. The ground was connected to the Ground lug up front.

I have tested all positive leads coming from the positive post to the points they pass the big red distribution block and they have continuity. I then tried unplugging the IBS battery sensor on the Neg just to rule that out. Not that. There is nothing when the start is pushed, except a bunch of relay clicking from "R3" (fuse box type 2, 2011 335i x N55)

Why would there be no OBD II communication then? What does that point to? Thank you for chiming in here, I am in desperate need of an expert.

What module are you trying to contact through ODB? What tool are you using?

The clicking noise, I assume is heard when you try the start button? If you get that, lots of thing are happening DME, CAS are talking. Not fried. WhT happens to the other lights in the car? Done lights for instance.

[335i N55]

Originally Posted by rjahl

What module are you trying to contact through ODB? What tool are you using?

The clicking noise, I assume is heard when you try the start button? If you get that, lots of thing are happening DME, CAS are talking. Not fried. WhT happens to the other lights in the car? Done lights for instance.

I have a MAC Tools scanner (just reads OBD II codes, no writing) that I have used many times before. The scanner had worked earlier the day of the incident (I have an unrelated evap canister code p2400), but now there is no communication via OBD II.

Yes the clicking noise is when I push the start button. The actual illumination lights are solid, unflickering. The dashe gives me the gammut of "DCS, 4 wheel drive, fuel pump, etc.etc." every thing seems to pop up on the dash as screwy.

Ok yes, the DME and CAS are talking, but what else maybe?

All fuses verified to have continuity with a multi-meter under the dash (without removing them, so none accidentally moved).

Pulled the engine down to the starter to give it a little tap to see if i could get it to kick over, same clicking.

I see now there are 4 fuses on the passenger side under the hood I haven't double checked, but I am not sure they are for the DME.

Thank you again for the help here

[rjahl]

Originally Posted by 335i N55

I have a MAC Tools scanner, that I have used many times before. The scanner had worked earlier the day of the incident (I have an unrelated evap canister code p2400), but now there is no communication via OBD II.

All fuses verified to have continuity with a multi-meter under the dash (without removing them, so none accidentally moved).

Pulled the engine down to the starter to give it a little tap to see if i could get it to kick over, same clicking.

I see now there are 4 fuses on the passenger side under the hood I haven't double checked, but I am not sure they are for the DME.

Thank you again for the help here

If you jump the starter relay and it just clicks with no spinning, stop looking at your DME. The problem is more related to getting the correct current to your starter. If you are sure the battery is good, put a voltmeter on the starter and try jumping the contact again. Watch the voltage, it should not drop excessively.

Sounds like a bad ground strap or lead somewhere.

[335i N55]

Originally Posted by rjahl

If you jump the starter relay and it just clicks with no spinning, stop looking at your DME. The problem is more related to getting the correct current to your starter. If you are sure the battery is good, put a voltmeter on the starter and try jumping the contact again. Watch the voltage, it should not drop excessively.

Sounds like a bad ground strap or lead somewhere.

I have tested impedance to the block to the actual metal chassis, 0 ohms. Also did all the continuity and impedance check at the battery in the trunk, no impedance from post to chassis. Not a ground strap

Very good advice btw, I worked on car electronics at "Sound Advice's" New England partner (TWEETER) as an install manager for over a decade.

I'm just baffled by the strange behavior, I will jump the starter terminal tomorrow and see if it spins, as well as check my last 4 fuses.

Other than that i don't know of another possible cause of lack of communication/ starting/ all the relay chatter. I don't know of a module that would be stopping the engine startup cycle.

[335i N55]

I have found there is a 15 amp (yes, 15!!) parasitic draw, chasing that now by pulling each fuse.

I just wanted to say thank you, and the first stage is going to be replacing that fuse/ junction box as it is the cheapest link in this equation. I'l keep you updated!

[Bmwater]

Originally Posted by 335i N55

I have found there is a 15 amp (yes, 15!!) parasitic draw, chasing that now by pulling each fuse.

I just wanted to say thank you, and the first stage is going to be replacing that fuse/ junction box as it is the cheapest link in this equation. I'l keep you updated!

Thanks for keeping us updated. Really appreciate it

[Ferragamo_n54]

Did you ever figure this out? My 2007 is doing the same thing.

[Kinge335i]

I have a used dme the old one msd80 i want to program it on my car the old cant read from it to write in the other one can one help me to write the isn

[808AWD325xi]

Originally Posted by Kinge335i

I have a used dme the old one msd80 i want to program it on my car the old cant read from it to write in the other one can one help me to write the isn

You could write the used DME ISN to CAS with CGDI:
https://youtu.be/9w946UWplGc