[ctuna]

Bottom line uses the Aux.
Notice they mention buying a second aux splitter as
an option.
Sure looks like it does anyway.

[reggiefu]

I installed something similar to this. Im assuming its a knock off but it works fine for what i need (carplay/android auto) and it was only $300!

https://www.wakaa.us/product/8-8-wir...8aArApEALw_wcB

The problem im having is getting the backup camera to work. For some reason im getting zero signal. I did use a relay. 30 to battery. 87 to power camera. 86 to blu/blk wire off passenger trunk tailight. 85 to brown ground off trunk taillight. Also the ground for the camera is tapped into the brown ground wire for taillights but not close to the taillights. And the video rca ran to the headunit wire labeled ccd_cvbs. And im getting nothing.

I have also tried connecting the red wire (tail)off the rca ( headunit side) to a wire labeled "campower" but nothing as well. Then i tried running a wire tapped into the signal/trigger wire (blu/blk on taillight plug) to the front along the rca and tried it with both the "campower" wire from unit. And to the red wire coming from the rca. And still nothing. Any help would be appreciated. I have been searching for 3 days. Here and other forums. Ive compared notes watched videos. Ill post pictures when i can.

Oh BTW my car is a 2011 328xi manual None idrive. None PDC. Base.

[TiAgAu]

Looks like the old aux is still the only option People say you cant notice a difference.
I tested by connecting phone directly headphone jack to aux playing the same track which i saved on the cic their is a definitely a huge difference in volume and clarity. Maybe going an NBT retrofit would be the go.

[InnerBlueSkies]

Originally Posted by reggiefu

I installed something similar to this. Im assuming its a knock off but it works fine for what i need (carplay/android auto) and it was only $300!

https://www.wakaa.us/product/8-8-wir...8aArApEALw_wcB

The problem im having is getting the backup camera to work. For some reason im getting zero signal. I did use a relay. 30 to battery. 87 to power camera. 86 to blu/blk wire off passenger trunk tailight. 85 to brown ground off trunk taillight. Also the ground for the camera is tapped into the brown ground wire for taillights but not close to the taillights. And the video rca ran to the headunit wire labeled ccd_cvbs. And im getting nothing.

I have also tried connecting the red wire (tail)off the rca ( headunit side) to a wire labeled "campower" but nothing as well. Then i tried running a wire tapped into the signal/trigger wire (blu/blk on taillight plug) to the front along the rca and tried it with both the "campower" wire from unit. And to the red wire coming from the rca. And still nothing. Any help would be appreciated. I have been searching for 3 days. Here and other forums. Ive compared notes watched videos. Ill post pictures when i can.

Oh BTW my car is a 2011 328xi manual None idrive. None PDC. Base.

May not be the answer you want to hear but I would disconnect and reconnect everything. I say this because I ran into the same issue. I would also double check for connectivity if you used T-Tap Wire Connectors.

[reggiefu]

Yea,....yea smh. I have considered that innerblueskies. I really, Really dont want to pull everything and do it all over again. But it is on my list of the last things i may need to do. Right up there with paying someone else to do it.

Can i get a conformation that this is the correct way to wire the relay/reverse cam setup? Any other ideas are more then welcome. Also if anyone knows of a different trigger wire for reverse that could help as well.


EDIT***
i got everything working fyi. just wanted to show the fix.


.

[reggiefu]

I figured it out today, for some reason one of the wires was mislabeled thanks for the help!!

[safal]

Originally Posted by LandoT

I had the CCC version but sold the car. Just got the CIC Snapdragon unit in today. The aux in 3.5mm jack had an aux out cable plugged in to it from the main harness. Can't seem to get any sound. I unplugged the cables and ran a 3.5mm to the center console aux port and still wasn't getting anything. Waiting on a response from Avin. The sound from the CIC unit still works fine on radio, etc.

Just an update: my sound issue was due to the MOST connection on the back of the CIC unit being pushed inside the unit due to my error. I talked about it in a thread I posted in this sub-forum. I was able to reposition the connector and everything is working fine now. I did have to unplug the aux cables on the main harness and run a cable to the center console still. One thing of note is the sound on the snapdragon unit seems to be night and day better than what I was getting from the CCC unit in my last car. Not completely sure if that is due to my aftermarket speakers/amp (using drop in Rockford fosgate speakers for the fronts, RF coaxials in the back, and a JL 700/5 with harness for the amp) or just the unit being much better. But I didn't really have to tweak settings to get it to sound decent.

Hi, I have the exact same issue as yours, i dont get sound from my unit even after connecting aux to the main unit. Could you please tell me what the MOST connection is and how i can get this sorted?

[GtiGyver]

Originally Posted by safal

Hi, I have the exact same issue as yours, i dont get sound from my unit even after connecting aux to the main unit. Could you please tell me what the MOST connection is and how i can get this sorted?

The MOST connection is the optical connection behind the original radio used to communicate with other multimedia units in the car such as satellite radio (if equipped), L7 or DIRAC amp (if equipped) or CD changer.
If you break this connection, and your car has a COMBOX, then the line-in in the center console will be dead, as well as other services as bluetooth.

I'm making some assumptions about your specific setup here, but one thing for sure, you need to properly move the MOST connector from the original radio harness location to the piggyback harness.

[3DIRTY8]

I have the new Avin 10.25 screen installed and only use the ZLink Carplay. The head unit will load whatever stock profile it comes with, make all the Bluetooth connections / wifi connections, then it will load Zlink and start the CarPlay app.

Any of you know how I can skip all that nonsense and just have it load straight into ZLink?

[bob.g]

android 11 units are out.. a lot of fakes out there so for anyone whos buying on aliexpress, get a brand that's well known (mekede/navifly).

[Chapperss]

I just got the one from Josmile store - 6gb ram, 128gb memory Android 11 - 8 core 2ghz - verified by CPU-Z. Well happy as it was cheap as chips.

[bob.g]

Originally Posted by Chapperss

I just got the one from Josmile store - 6gb ram, 128gb memory Android 11 - 8 core 2ghz - verified by CPU-Z. Well happy as it was cheap as chips.

whats the app version and mcu? i remember reading that almost everything with the exception of a few of the specs can be faked.

josmile was selling fake android 11 units as far back as july..if it was cheap, from a shady seller, you might want to look into it. the legit android 11 units are selling for around 515 usd for the 6gb model, more for the 8gb.

[Chapperss]

Originally Posted by bob.g

whats the app version and mcu? i remember reading that almost everything with the exception of a few of the specs can be faked.

josmile was selling fake android 11 units as far back as july..if it was cheap, from a shady seller, you might want to look into it. the legit android 11 units are selling for around 515 usd.

Yeah tha'ts why i used CPU-z to double check, it reads the real stats not the fake ones.

I will double check the app and MCU version and paste them here. Tbh if i`ve been conned (which i kind of expected) i`m really happy with the result! Plus if we manage to find out I was, which i though CPU-Z would have done, I get to make a claim and might get this thing for free

[Chapperss]

Originally Posted by bob.g

whats the app version and mcu? i remember reading that almost everything with the exception of a few of the specs can be faked.

josmile was selling fake android 11 units as far back as july..if it was cheap, from a shady seller, you might want to look into it. the legit android 11 units are selling for around 515 usd for the 6gb model, more for the 8gb.

Heres the MCU - TsBMW.210129. Wheres App version?

[bob.g]

[QUOTE=Chapperss;28073769]Heres the MCU - TsBMW.210129. Wheres App version?

i think its in settings/system info on the head unit (not in cpuz).

it does seem to be an android 11 unit. Im guessing the difference in price comes from the cpu (the newest is the Qualcomm Snapdragon 662).

[matamua]

Originally Posted by Chapperss

Heres the MCU - TsBMW.210129. Wheres App version?

How's the iDrive integration on the 11s? Are you LCI or pre-LCI? Are you happy with the sound?

[Chapperss]

Originally Posted by matamua

How's the iDrive integration on the 11s? Are you LCI or pre-LCI? Are you happy with the sound?

Pre-lci so CCC idrive. Works fine, had to mess with a couple of settings to get it to display, but the instructions did make it clear that what i had to do may be necessary.

I can switch to the factory screen with a press of a button and the reverse PDC screen thing comes up straight away when I put it in R.

The sound is great, reason i went with this model is it has inbuilt DSP so i`ve now got something like 37 levels/bands to adjust. I do have a filter on my aux from a previous bluetooth mpow device, I`ve left that in as it`s supposed to reduce hiss. Car is sounding really nice and overall i`m happy.

I am currently talking to the vendor about an issue with accessibility settings being reset on each boot (means i can't use Tasker properly). They may come up with a fix or I may stumble on a way to do it myself.

Also I`ve had an issue with my alarm going off after I unlock the car with the FOB and open the door. I think this may be because I hardwired my Dcan cable and its some kind of OBD2 alarm. Seen the code changes I need to make on here to stop it, just haven`t got round to hooking NCSexpecrt up yet. EDIT 30/09 - Have confirmed this is 100% an issue with the canbus supplied with this headunit - waiting on fix but peeps should be wary if considering a purchase

[matamua]

Originally Posted by Chapperss

Pre-lci so CCC idrive. Works fine, had to mess with a couple of settings to get it to display, but the instructions did make it clear that what i had to do may be necessary.

I can switch to the factory screen with a press of a button and the reverse PDC screen thing comes up straight away when I put it in R.

Not a lot else to report.

I am currently talking to the vendor about an issue with accessibility settings being reset on each boot (means i can use Tasker properly). They may come up with a fix or I may stumble on a way to do it myself.

Also I`ve had an issue with my alarm going off after I unlock the car with the FOB and open the door. I think this may be because I hardwired my Dcan cable and its some kind of OBD2 alarm. Seen the code changes I need to make on here to stop it, just haven`t got round to hooking NCSexpecrt up yet.

Thanks!

[Chapperss]

Originally Posted by Chapperss

Also I`ve had an issue with my alarm going off after I unlock the car with the FOB and open the door. I think this may be because I hardwired my Dcan cable and its some kind of OBD2 alarm. Seen the code changes I need to make on here to stop it, just haven`t got round to hooking NCSexpecrt up yet.

I`ve disconnected the OBD2 and this is still happening.

Has this been reported before when installing an aftermarket unit? I`ve tried to search but have found no corresponding posts.

[JonEQuest]

Originally Posted by Chapperss

Pre-lci so CCC idrive. Works fine, had to mess with a couple of settings to get it to display, but the instructions did make it clear that what i had to do may be necessary.

I can switch to the factory screen with a press of a button and the reverse PDC screen thing comes up straight away when I put it in R.

The sound is great, reason i went with this model is it has inbuilt DSP so i`ve now got something like 37 levels/bands to adjust. I do have a filter on my aux from a previous bluetooth mpow device, I`ve left that in as it`s supposed to reduce hiss. Car is sounding really nice and overall i`m happy.

I am currently talking to the vendor about an issue with accessibility settings being reset on each boot (means i can't use Tasker properly). They may come up with a fix or I may stumble on a way to do it myself.

Also I`ve had an issue with my alarm going off after I unlock the car with the FOB and open the door. I think this may be because I hardwired my Dcan cable and its some kind of OBD2 alarm. Seen the code changes I need to make on here to stop it, just haven`t got round to hooking NCSexpecrt up yet.

So did you have the Logic7 system? That is what I have and my 2008 car was CCC.
I swapped over to a CIC unit and added combox, etc. but I now want to wire the rear camera and it seems the options to get that working stock are a pain. Plus it would be nice to have real Android app, like Pandora, YouTube, etc. with real integration. I may just get this and sell my CIC system off to pay for it. My only concern is that the sound is SOOO good from the fiber optic Logic7 system I am leery about how it will sound using the basic aux input.

[Chapperss]

Originally Posted by JonEQuest

So did you have the Logic7 system? That is what I have and my 2008 car was CCC.
I swapped over to a CIC unit and added combox, etc. but I now want to wire the rear camera and it seems the options to get that working stock are a pain. Plus it would be nice to have real Android app, like Pandora, YouTube, etc. with real integration. I may just get this and sell my CIC system off to pay for it. My only concern is that the sound is SOOO good from the fiber optic Logic7 system I am leery about how it will sound using the basic aux input.

I have the HIFI system bud. I was already listening to everything via aux anyway with Bluetooth and my phone. Having and adjustable DSP has made that experience a lot better.

I`d say you`ll probably lose a lot, but you could check by plugging a high quality music source in to the aux and seeing how it sounds.

[matamua]

Originally Posted by Chapperss

I have the HIFI system bud. I was already listening to everything via aux anyway with Bluetooth and my phone. Having and adjustable DSP has made that experience a lot better.

I`d say you`ll probably lose a lot, but you could check by plugging a high quality music source in to the aux and seeing how it sounds.

I've got Logic 7 and use a tune2air Bluetooth gizmo via aux. I honestly don't find it to be that bad and I'm pretty picky about audio. I've bought/returned 5 sets of high end headphones in the last year because it wasn't exactly what I was after.

I hope to upgrade to the Android unit shortly. Debating Bavsound upgrades too.