[Andyrt200]

First off hello, this is my first post on here.

I picked my first E93 a few weeks ago. Its a completely standard (for now at least) 2007 335i.



It wasn’t running when I got it, the wires had melted into the water pump. So I’ve fitted a new genuine pump, stat & repaired the wiring, glad BMW sell all the bits to make up a new plug!

I noticed a lot of oil down the side of the engine so wasn’t too surprised to find it dripping out from the head cover the first time I started it up. I so I replaced the cam cover / head cover gasket.

I did start it up for about 30 seconds as some as I’d made the wiring safe before doing anything else to it just to make sure it ran. I checked the codes then & there was loads but all related to power & water pump problems, I was looking for turbo related messages but didn’t notice any.

I cleared all the codes but now its showing “30D0 Wastegate 2 active” & “3100 Boost-press ctrl, deactivate”
I have searched for those code & it sounds like I’ve left something unplugged but I can’t work out what!
I assume these are the waste gate controller plugs:


I checked their continuity back to the DME & they aren’t damaged (they were plugged in when I was trying it!)

So I’m hoping it’s something else I’ve forgot to plug back in somewhere else but I can’t see any obvious.

Has anyone got any suggestions?

[Andyrt200]

I tried swapping those connections circled in the picture over to see if the error changed, it didn’t. I cleared them but they came back the same.

Checking some more there is conflicting information out there but it seems logical that the “3100 Boost-press ctrl, deactivate” is just the limp mode.

”30D0 wastegate 2 active” is the message my scanner gave me, but looking up that code its generally showing as “Wastegate 2, input signal”

There is apparently a “30CF Wastegate, input signal” error so swapping the connections over should, I have thought, change the error message if it was the control valves causing the problem. So it seems its the plugs but they look fine & they have perfect continuity back to the DME. So I’m confused!

[Andyrt200]

Arse, found the issue!

There was continuity to the top side of the DME connector but not the bottom!!

If you look closely at the plug the pin for the rear connector has come off.

It’s not there on the DME anymore:


So its has nothing to do with anything I’ve did at all. How on earth they have corroded that much is beyond me. It’s perfectly clean & dry in the DME box.

[Andyrt200]

Fixed:


Wire directly onto the PCB, not very pretty but functional!

[Andystobbs]

Good work in diagnosis and an expedient repair.

[Judy003]

Does anyone know how he did this? What connection was used? I am having the same issue with my car and would like to try this solution.

Originally Posted by Andyrt200

Fixed:


Wire directly onto the PCB, not very pretty but functional!

[Andyrt200]

Originally Posted by Judy003

Does anyone know how he did this? What connection was used? I am having the same issue with my car and would like to try this solution.

Ah sorry didn’t notice this!

This will only work if you have broken pins like mine, either snapped off from a JB4 being rammed on or corroded away like mine.

I took the DME out, split it, found where the damaged pin connected into the circuit board, soldered a wire directly to that pin & ran it out back up to the wire with the missing pin in the loom just back from the plug. Its the white wire coming out of the side of the DME with a bit of the plastic broken away to fit it:



Sorry I didn’t take any pictures of the inside of the DME.

I did this whenever the post is dated & it’s been fine since then. I recently took the plug off the DME again to check the corrosion wasn’t coming back, it’s still exactly as I left it all cleaned up.

Works no problem with MHD too, couldn’t plug a JB4 in though.