[Efthreeoh]

Definitely bent. Now, I still think the repair is over estimated. I think BMW makes a replacement section that can be welded into place without having to remove the engine, or engine supports (see my earlier post with the parts schematic). Or I think a certified BMW body shop can pull that back to spec.

I can call my contact at BMW of Fairfax and see what he thinks. My Z4 had way more frame damage than that, along with suspension damage and fuel tank damage, and the repair was around $10K.

If the insurance totals it, you should buy it back and repair it. That frame damage is minor at worst.

[RNByrd3]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Definitely bent. Now, I still think the repair is over estimated. I think BMW makes a replacement section that can be welded into place without having to remove the engine, or engine supports (see my earlier post with the parts schematic). Or I think a certified BMW body shop can pull that back to spec.

I can call my contact at BMW of Fairfax and see what he thinks. My Z4 had way more frame damage than that, along with suspension damage and fuel tank damage, and the repair was around $10K.

If the insurance totals it, you should buy it back and repair it. That frame damage is minor at worst.

I'd appreciate you checking on that for me. I too can call the local BMW shop and see what they think.
As far as buying it back, I certainly would, but I don't think that's an option. I just got the car in June with a loan from my credit union, so any money from the insurance company would go directly to the credit union to pay off the lien. I owe more than what the insurance company would likely pay me, so gap insurance would cover the remainder. Regardless, the car would be out of my possession before I could possibly buy it back.
I searched for this car for well over a year, and the thought of it now going to salvage due to this accident is making me sick to my stomach.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by RNByrd3

I'd appreciate you checking on that for me. I too can call the local BMW shop and see what they think.
As far as buying it back, I certainly would, but I don't think that's an option. I just got the car in June with a loan from my credit union, so any money from the insurance company would go directly to the credit union to pay off the lien. I owe more than what the insurance company would likely pay me, so gap insurance would cover the remainder. Regardless, the car would be out of my possession before I could possibly buy it back.
I searched for this car for well over a year, and the thought of it now going to salvage due to this accident is making me sick to my stomach.

Well it's all a numbers game, so you still can buy it back, you just have to settle up with the CU. Have you contacted the CU yet to see what needs to be done to keep the car? If you didn't way over pay for the car, then the settlement should be close to cover your loan plus have some money for the repair. But again, the shop's estimate is wrong because it is based on replacing the entire frame rail, which means pulling the unibody apart and welding in the new rail. I think BMW has the replacement section just for the part of the rail that is damaged. If I were repairing it, I'd cut the indent open, pull the frame straight, then weld a plate over the cut. But, really a frame machine you pull that straight easily.

You just need to get the right information to the right people.

[RNByrd3]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Well it's all a numbers game, so you still can buy it back, you just have to settle up with the CU. Have you contacted the CU yet to see what needs to be done to keep the car? If you didn't way over pay for the car, then the settlement should be close to cover your loan plus have some money for the repair. But again, the shop's estimate is wrong because it is based on replacing the entire frame rail, which means pulling the unibody apart and welding in the new rail. I think BMW has the replacement section just for the part of the rail that is damaged. If I were repairing it, I'd cut the indent open, pull the frame straight, then weld a plate over the cut. But, really a frame machine you pull that straight easily.

You just need to get the right information to the right people.

Who are the right people?! I need to find them!

[Tre']

I guess it really depends on state laws and how your credit union and insurance company handle these types of situations but here's how my situation went.

1. Body Shop tore the car down and provided me and the insurance company (State Farm) pictures and a detailed estimate totaling $5600.

2. Insurance company gathered retail values of similar cars in my area (Houston, TX)

3. Insurance co. valued the car at $6400, deeming it a total loss.

4. I told the adjuster I wanted to keep the car because I didn't think the damage was that significant.

5. My car was also financed through State Farm Bank so I had to call them to see if it was possible for me to keep it. I still owed $1900 on the car.

6. State Farm Bank contacted State Farm Insurance and verified I could keep the car.

7. State Farm Insurance took the salvage value of $640 and the payoff amount of $1900 out of the $6400 I would have received if I released the car to them.

8. I got a check for $4400 and had my car fixed for $3000 after taking the unnecessary parts off the original estimate.

9. I now own my car, clean and clear and the title is still clean.

Sorry for the long post. Hope it helps you understand the process a little better.

[RNByrd3]

Originally Posted by Tre'

I guess it really depends on state laws and how your credit union and insurance company handle these types of situations but here's how my situation went.

1. Body Shop tore the car down and provided me and the insurance company (State Farm) pictures and a detailed estimate totaling $5600.

2. Insurance company gathered retail values of similar cars in my area (Houston, TX)

3. Insurance co. valued the car at $6400, deeming it a total loss.

4. I told the adjuster I wanted to keep the car because I didn't think the damage was that significant.

5. My car was also financed through State Farm Bank so I had to call them to see if it was possible for me to keep it. I still owed $1900 on the car.

6. State Farm Bank contacted State Farm Insurance and verified I could keep the car.

7. State Farm Insurance took the salvage value of $640 and the payoff amount of $1900 out of the $6400 I would have received if I released the car to them.

8. I got a check for $4400 and had my car fixed for $3000 after taking the unnecessary parts off the original estimate.

9. I now own my car, clean and clear and the title is still clean.

Sorry for the long post. Hope it helps you understand the process a little better.

I owe just over $15,000 for it. I may have paid more for it than some, but this was the EXACT car I was looking for for over a year. The credit union valued it at $15,500 back in June of this year when I obtained the loan. Suffice it to say, I don't think the insurance company is going to offer me anywhere near enough to cover the loan, let alone have anything left over. I have gap coverage, and would be free from the loan altogether, but that is not how I want this to play out. As we all know, these cars sell for much more than KBB values them and if I could prove to the insurance company that it's worth enough, then I could have the damage repaired even for the original $10,000 that the shop was estimating. Getting the insurance to go along with this idea is not going well so far.

[tsuintx]

15000??? Oh boy... Yeah, I think your best bet is to get a second opinion and hope that comes with a number that works for the insurance company so they’ll get it fixed.

Going to be a battle, for sure, but good luck. Also, if you decide to let it go, ask for the number you could buy it back. In case it’s a low enough number and you have the cash, maybe you can work out a deal with the CU. CUs are usually local and much easier to work with than big national banks.

Then you can work out a plan what to do with it. If you have room to store it somewhere, of course...

[coz_mo]

You might have to drag it out a month, but I think you should be able to to get at least the 15k you paid for it.

A low mile manual 2011 328xi is pretty rare. They likely won't be able to to find anything comparible.

Start looking for ads to show them and any receipts you have.

I just went through a very similar situation with my 328i

[RNByrd3]

Originally Posted by coz_mo

You might have to drag it out a month, but I think you should be able to to get at least the 15k you paid for it.

A low mile manual 2011 328xi is pretty rare. They likely won't be able to to find anything comparible.

Start looking for ads to show them and any receipts you have.

I just went through a very similar situation with my 328i

I can easily show them examples of manual 328xi wagons that have sold recently (some for $20,000 +) but the insurance company is trying to tell me that any comps I send them must be the exact year, make, and model, and within a 100 mile radius of my current zip code. They also want the VIN and the sellers contact info. I definitely cannot find any within that radius since, as you said, they are pretty rare.

[Serf27]

Originally Posted by RNByrd3

I can easily show them examples of manual 328xi wagons that have sold recently (some for $20,000 +) but the insurance company is trying to tell me that any comps I send them must be the exact year, make, and model, and within a 100 mile radius of my current zip code. They also want the VIN and the sellers contact info. I definitely cannot find any within that radius since, as you said, they are pretty rare.

$20k for an e91?! Auto or MT or either or.

[RNByrd3]

Originally Posted by Serf27

$20k for an e91?! Auto or MT or either or.

Both. I'm mostly talking about Bring A Trailer auctions, but also sales from private listings and eBay. The upper range are for M-sport models, but the other ones go for $15,000 and up.

$22,000 https://bringatrailer.com/listing/2011-bmw-328-20/

$24,000 https://bringatrailer.com/listing/2011-bmw-328-3/

$15,500 https://bringatrailer.com/listing/20..._listing_ended

Just a few examples I have. But these are mostly outside of that radius that the insurance company is requiring.

[tsuintx]

Originally Posted by RNByrd3

$24,000 https://bringatrailer.com/listing/2011-bmw-328-3/

That one sold over two years ago, so good luck getting it counted, even if it was within the 100 mile radius.

[E91WAG3N]

Note to self: finish getting Hagerty for my wagon.

OP: rough to see you going through this, hopefully it all gets sorted out. It goes without saying but people, including myself, post tons of examples for sale in the mega E91 thread in the for sale section.

[RNByrd3]

Originally Posted by tsuintx

That one sold over two years ago, so good luck getting it counted, even if it was within the 100 mile radius.

No doubt. Plus that's an M-Sport spec, so I don't think they'd count it anyway.

[krhodes1]

I can't really help with the situation, but I will make a strong suggestion to anyone who owns a rare car that is easy to undervalue like a manual transmission e91- investigate Agreed Value insurance. I have such from AIG on all of my cars in Maine, both the two classics and my e91. They value my RWD, 45K miles car at $23K. I get their valuation at renewal time annually, and in the event of a total loss that is what I will get, no screwing around.

For the valuation, they determine it for the newer cars, and I have the option to up the coverage for a premium increase - so far I have been happy with theirs. On the actual classics, I specify what I want and they have the option to ask for an appraisal, but they have been fine with my valuations of my Spitfire and Land Rover. The price for the coverage is VERY reasonable, but the cars are insured in a very cheap state to start with, and I put no miles on them since I mostly live in FL now and just summer in Maine.

[oVeRdOsE.]

seeing all those nice e91 on bat, makes me sad. I reminds me the day that I declined the seller's offer.

Back in 2015, a 2010 E91, 6mt, 44k miles, FULL FULL equip, yes all the options checked!! m pack, nav, sport, exc pack, winter pack.
It was white, and red nevada leather. carfax clean. 1 owner.

The guy was asking 22 000$ CAD !!! that was a steal.

But, back in the days, I had a budget of only 15k$, I was at school.

like this one, same wheels :

[E91WAG3N]

Originally Posted by krhodes1

I can't really help with the situation, but I will make a strong suggestion to anyone who owns a rare car that is easy to undervalue like a manual transmission e91- investigate Agreed Value insurance. I have such from AIG on all of my cars in Maine, both the two classics and my e91. They value my RWD, 45K miles car at $23K. I get their valuation at renewal time annually, and in the event of a total loss that is what I will get, no screwing around.

For the valuation, they determine it for the newer cars, and I have the option to up the coverage for a premium increase - so far I have been happy with theirs. On the actual classics, I specify what I want and they have the option to ask for an appraisal, but they have been fine with my valuations of my Spitfire and Land Rover. The price for the coverage is VERY reasonable, but the cars are insured in a very cheap state to start with, and I put no miles on them since I mostly live in FL now and just summer in Maine.

What company do you use to insure?

[RNByrd3]

Originally Posted by tsuintx

So, what are they offering you to total it? I don’t think I saw you mention that anywhere.

If you owe less than what the settlement is (in case you decide go that route), the money left over from payoff is yours to keep and to do what ever you want with: buying it back and fixing it or what ever.

Finally got the valuation of the car. Definitely undervaluing it. They claim that they used similarly spec'ed cars in PA, but I really doubt they found any manuals in that equation.

[tsuintx]

I'm assuming they don't have to provide you links or other info regarding the cars they supposedly found? But if you want to make your own case, you will. Funny how it works...

No info what the buyback amount is?

I'm not up to speed as to what the value of the car would need to be, but looks like your gap insurance needs to kick in. I'm sure there's still room to negotiate the value up. You just need to be persistent.

[RNByrd3]

Originally Posted by tsuintx

I'm assuming they don't have to provide you links or other info regarding the cars they supposedly found? But if you want to make your own case, you will. Funny how it works...

No info what the buyback amount is?

I'm not up to speed as to what the value of the car would need to be, but looks like your gap insurance needs to kick in. I'm sure there's still room to negotiate the value up. You just need to be persistent.

No, they didn't provide any of that. I'll have to ask them to.
I'm not interested in totaling the car, I'm interested in saving it. So, yes, GAP insurance would save me from owing the credit union anything if the car is totaled, but that is not my end goal.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by RNByrd3

Finally got the valuation of the car. Definitely undervaluing it. They claim that they used similarly spec'ed cars in PA, but I really doubt they found any manuals in that equation.

The right people are (1) get your CU to your insurance company what they valued the car at to to give you the loan. The CU wouldn't have loaned you the money if they thought the value of the car was $11K. (2) get a BMW repair specialist to reevaluate the repair cost and explain the unibody doesn't need to be torn apart to repair minor frame damage. Also remember that damage was from a prior accident. It looks like to me the left front wheel was pushed into the frame. Did the body shop measure the frame to see if it is out of spec?

[RNByrd3]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

The right people are (1) get your CU to your insurance company what they valued the car at to to give you the loan. The CU wouldn't have loaned you the money if they thought the value of the car was $11K. (2) get a BMW repair specialist to reevaluate the repair cost and explain the unibody doesn't need to be torn apart to repair minor frame damage. Also remember that damage was from a prior accident. It looks like to me the left front wheel was pushed into the frame. Did the body shop measure the frame to see if it is out of spec?

I previously discussed with the insurance company that my credit union valued the car at $15,500 just a few month ago. The insurance company told me that they cannot take the CU appraisal into account. This makes absolutely no sense to me.
I also saw that the insurance company has my car listed as an automatic transmission so I told them I want it reappraised. They gave me the constraints of a 100 mile radius for comps, and I challenged them to find a 2011 328xi wagon with manual transmission that is within 100 miles of me.
As far as the frame, it was not measured. I specifically asked the body shop yesterday when I picked the car up. They told me that they didn't bother to measure after seeing the damage.
I've contacted my local BMW certified collision shop and am waiting to hear back.

In all fairness, after seeing the damage, I believe this accident certainly could have caused it.