[335dsleeper]

Originally Posted by TDIwyse

Not wanting to start a fight over this, but ... the start stop button does not initiate the in take pump and does not prime the filter on my '11 335d.

Here's a picture of my car on a lift with the fuel filter draining into a gallon container. I tested the start/stop button and there was no flow (except the draining of what was in the line).

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...58&postcount=1

And another post describing the start/stop button not working, and how I use the Bav Tech tool to initiate the low pressure pump. Which does push fuel through the system. I use it to flush the filters (~1/2 to 1 gallon worth). When connecting the filter back up and initiating the low pressure pump, the sound one hears when doing this is quite noticeable, and gurgling sounds can be heard up by the HPFP as air/fuel is getting pushed through the system.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...3&postcount=27

After a proper priming of the system, the car should start up immediately, and the HPFP does not run without fuel lubricating the components.

Running the pump dry is about the worst thing one can do to their HPFP. Even for a brief time it can cause durability issues...

https://www.arb.ca.gov/fuels/gasolin...22003bosch.pdf

Yea, seems maybe the 11's are different. Rest assured, I'll be posting a video come July.

i actually emailed you and mentioned the fuel pump draining my tank with the ignition on and injector supply line loosened.

I'm not debating the INPA method working and being ideal, but this does and has worked for me.

Here's a question, how many CP3 HPFPs have failed with far less than 155k miles, in stock cars/ trucks?

[TDIwyse]

Originally Posted by 335dsleeper

...
Here's a question, how many CP3 HPFPs have failed with far less than 155k miles, in stock cars/ trucks?

Here was one I remember from a long time ago. Bad fuel took out his whole fuel system. Water separation is a key reason I added a 2nd fuel filter that does have water separating and draining capability.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...7&postcount=42

I haven't been tracking HPFP failures on the 335d though. The CP3 is generally known as a robust pump. Unlike the VW TDI's and the CP4 pumps ... all kinds of examples of those things self destructing...

[BB_cuda]

Another 2011 data point. I put a multimeter on the leads going to fuel pump. So, of course the rear seat was out and even the 10" lid was removed. I saw no voltage at the leads when pushing start button and foot not on brake. I used direct drive method with a 12 volt battery to the pins of the pump. High squeal whine and plenty Diesel going into pan under vehicle from outlet of filter. I borrowed TDI idea of purging new filter. After reconnect onto engine feed line, lots of gurgling for about 2 minutes.

I'm not a doubter of sleeper's maintenance methods. We all have to own our methods of work. I respect others wanting to be cautious with preferred methods but at the end of the day "we pays our money and takes our chances". We all here are having a healthy disagreement but we do agree it important to prime system.

There have been others that say to simply hook back up line after filter change and crank until it starts. I hope others that didn't know better didn't follow that "advice". But once again, we need to own our decisions. Out

[Hockey13]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

Another 2011 data point. I put a multimeter on the leads going to fuel pump. So, of course the rear seat was out and even the 10" lid was removed. I saw no voltage at the leads when pushing start button and foot not on brake. I used direct drive method with a 12 volt battery to the pins of the pump. High squeal whine and plenty Diesel going into pan under vehicle from outlet of filter. I borrowed TDI idea of purging new filter. After reconnect onto engine feed line, lots of gurgling for about 2 minutes.

I'm not a doubter of sleeper's maintenance methods. We all have to own our methods of work. I respect others wanting to be cautious with preferred methods but at the end of the day "we pays our money and takes our chances". We all here are having a healthy disagreement but we do agree it important to prime system.

There have been others that say to simply hook back up line after filter change and crank until it starts. I hope others that didn't know better didn't follow that "advice". But once again, we need to own our decisions. Out

"gurgling" that's a good adjective for what it sounds like.

[335D Alpha Pappa]

Another alternative is to use the Schwaben scan tool from ECS.

Plug it in, scan your vin, go to the service menu and select fuel pump purge and 2 minutes later you are done.

Or you can go find the fuel pump in the parts activation section and select the 60 or 120 second option.

[Persian Whisperjet]

Originally Posted by 335D Alpha Pappa

Another alternative is to use the Schwaben scan tool from ECS.

Plug it in, scan your vin, go to the service menu and select fuel pump purge and 2 minutes later you are done.

Or you can go find the fuel pump in the parts activation section and select the 60 or 120 second option.

Alpha can you confirm that you have used the Schwaben OBD2 reader to prime your pump? That is exactly what i am looking for.

[335D Alpha Pappa]

Originally Posted by Persian Whisperjet

Alpha can you confirm that you have used the Schwaben OBD2 reader to prime your pump? That is exactly what i am looking for.

Yes I have the tool. It is more than an OBD2 reader. It can activate a lot of components. Initiate a dpf regen, register a battery, and so on. I got tired of icarly nickle and dimeing me to death. I had an original bmwhat adapter that no longer worked with icarly but works fine with torque pro. They wanted me to upgrade to their newest version for another $60 + battery option + regen option ++++...

you can save $20 by buying the Foxwell NT510 and get the BMW option, but I decided to support a vendor here and buy it from them. I plan on adding the GM and Ford options for $60 each. The tool will read all codes but you need the options to look at live data or to activate parts.

After it scans your vin, it shows 3 DDE options including a UK version. I think it is model specific and will only show the options for your car. I do not have access to another bmw to verify that.

[Persian Whisperjet]

I have found the iCarly interface has gotten more difficult to use over time -- the 335d setting has disappeared and now I have to reset it every time I use it to some generic e90 setting which does not inspire confidence.

[Persian Whisperjet]

Does anyone know if the baby version, the Foxwell NT301, can run the lift pump?

[gtp900]

Originally Posted by Persian Whisperjet

I have found the iCarly interface has gotten more difficult to use over time -- the 335d setting has disappeared and now I have to reset it every time I use it to some generic e90 setting which does not inspire confidence.

Is icarly capable of cycling pump? I just ordered wifi adapt a few days ago, to register batt, I was planning on swapping fuel filter out soon and was hoping icarly was capable.

[Persian Whisperjet]

Originally Posted by gtp900

Is icarly capable of cycling pump? I just ordered wifi adapt a few days ago, to register batt, I was planning on swapping fuel filter out soon and was hoping icarly was capable.

It is not.

[a.j.c.]

Just replaced my filter today on my 2011. I followed the instructions of the original poster and it was a very simple procedure. Thanks for the write up!

I pushed the start/stop button without pressing the pedal and waited about 20 seconds. I then started it. It took about 10 seconds of cranking and then fired up.

[Persian Whisperjet]

Originally Posted by a.j.c.

I pushed the start/stop button without pressing the pedal and waited about 20 seconds. I then started it. It took about 10 seconds of cranking and then fired up.

There is a lively debate hereabouts re whether cranking the engine like that can damage the HPFP. I have taken the risk averse approach and at the last club DIY I was able to use one of the techs' Autologic Blue Box OBD scanners to prime the pump before starting.

The Blue Box is thousands of dollars but I just bought the $199 Schwaben 510 which is basically a Foxwell OBD scanner with tech support from ECS Tuning. Other club members have reported excellent results from jumpering the lift motor under the rear seat.

If you are reading this and have not yet replaced your fuel filter I strongly recommend not starting the engine dry.

[montr]

What I did is pre-filling the new fuel filter. Also, after removing old filter, I blocked the fuel lines to minimize the air in the fuel lines. I did the 1 minute as ignition ON as recommended in BMW instructions for my car. At max, I had to crank 2 to 3 seconds.

[cincy_335d]

Thanks for all the info in the thread, very helpful! I was able to follow all of the steps and successfully replace my fuel filter with some slight changes.

First, it appeared my dealership had previously replaced my filter as there was a hose clamp instead of a clip holding the fuel line from the outlet of the filter to the engine. I was able to reuse that hose clamp after installing the new filter.

Also, I took that advice of TDIwyse, Quasimodem, and Yozh... Post 78 was very helpful for finding the power line to the pump so that I could power it. I took off the rear seat very easily as it was only held down by two clips (pull up on the front sides). As my car does not have folding seats, I then removed the two bolts at the center of the rearseat bottom, then got in the trunk and manually released the latches with a screwdriver. Once that was done, it was very easy to see the wire junction box.

This is where my process was slightly different. I don't have access to a variable DC power source except for my RC car battery charger. Also, the basic ones i saw on the internet were >200$ so.... I pulled the pump power connector out of the junction box and powered it with a RC lithium battery. Based on comments in the thread, you can power the pump at ~8V and 1 to 2 amps. A 2 cell, 7.4V lipo at full charge is ~8.4V. Mine measured at 8.1V prior to connecting to the junction. I connected the battery to the unplugged end of the pump connector and it powered the pump immediately. I put the filter in and ran the pump for about 10 seconds of fuel through it prior to reconnecting the feed line to the engine.... Based on advice from TDIwyse about removing any potential debris from the filter. I meant to catch the fluid to inspect but I forgot in the excitement of getting the pump to work. Next time.

After connecting the new filter to the engine, I ran the low pressure pump with my lipo battery for another 15 seconds or so. It was obvious when the fuel line was full as the pump running frequency dropped slightly as if it was under load (I.E. full primed fuel line).

Before putting the seat and the underpanels back together, I started up the car to confirm everything was fine (made sure to reconnect the LPFP to the junction box).

Instant start as if nothing had happened! Thanks for everyone's support and guidance. I realize software could have driven the lift pump but I didn't want to buy anything else as I already have Carly. Perhaps my experience can help someone else.

[Yozh]

Thank You cincy, glad it worked seamlessly for you. And confirms that it does not take much to do things properly and save the HPFP. I now power the pump with my portable booster pack. Works great.

[BB_cuda]

Cincy, glad your process went smoothly. I hope more here will listen (as you did) to our advice to purge air from the feed system. It's too easy to blow off and crank for 10 seconds. I have named this sub group as the crankers. I had a multimeter connected to the leads and see no voltage at the pump when you push button without foot on brake. To the poster 3entries back, this is why you cranked for 10 seconds before start. I can't with 100% certainty say this as there is perhaps a year to difference but I gotta say no juice at leads for start push and no brake pedal for my 2011.

My advice to the folks not indirectly or directly operating the lift pump (indirect where software runs pump and direct where battery directly connected to pump) is to sell yourself that you see power to leads when you're going the start button method. I feel you will become a convert to our methods.

[BB_cuda]

Montr, I'm out of town right now but I will go verify if the BMW service bulletin really does run the lifting pump. The attachment you provided does it differenty than done others. It says turn ignition to on and leave for a minute. I take that as pushvtge button a single time and leave it be (as opposed to holding button with no brake pedal). Doug H over on the Binmerfest refers to different modes the ignition runs in. Simple enough to do if you crimp in the connectors that yozh showed us.

[Torqu3]

Just going to post this in here since someone suggested to do that, plus it may help some of you. My experience with the fuel filter(and differential fluid). http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?p=21113467

[mefferso]

Originally Posted by montr

What I did is pre-filling the new fuel filter. Also, after removing old filter, I blocked the fuel lines to minimize the air in the fuel lines. I did the 1 minute as ignition ON as recommended in BMW instructions for my car. At max, I had to crank 2 to 3 seconds.

Today I used this method and had the same results. Took my time filling the filter, tapping it to get all the bubbles out. I counted once I pressed the start button and started counting. The engine fired up between 2 and 3 seconds.

[Kyle335D]

Originally Posted by mefferso

Today I used this method and had the same results. Took my time filling the filter, tapping it to get all the bubbles out. I counted once I pressed the start button and started counting. The engine fired up between 2 and 3 seconds.

Getting ready to use this method. I'm thinking I might pour some diesel thru the filter first to flush out any debris from the manufacturer.

[lnxguy]

I think BB_Cuda is going to choke on his dinner when he realizes that there are a lot of 'crankers' out there. I'm one of them, no plans on changing that. Fill the fuel filter, stop any diesel from draining out when removing filter (golf ball T) and go to town.