[GottaBeKD]

For what it's worth. I'm not seeing anything without the 'D'

[kiel_dafo_kenyg_as]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

I bought several things from IDparts.com back early this year including the fuel filter, air filter, and 2 oil filters. After reading the thread (particularly where Greek talks about Mann 519), I'm concerned if this Mahle part is proper. I'm Googling around but though I'd ask if anyone had used this part. thanks.

see:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...6&postcount=32

[montr]

Originally Posted by Quasimodem

Bavarian Autosports sells a Mahle KL579D fuel filter for the 335d. I don't see the "D" on the photo you posted.

Jusk checked the fuel filter for my 355d. The box show KL 579 D but there are no D on the filter.

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by montr

Jusk checked the fuel filter for my 355d. The box show KL 579 D but there are no D on the filter.

This is an exact match of what I got from IDparts.com. It is female on the inlet (tank side) and male on the outlet (engine side). Comparing thus to whiteblue's words.

[Nushibo]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

This is an exact match of what I got from IDparts.com. It is female on the inlet (tank side) and male on the outlet (engine side). Comparing thus to whiteblue's words.

On my D it was wk519 before i tried wk5001 which is currently in the car. Both seem to work just fine. Im not sure about this one though also i have 2011 335d build date 12/10

[BB_cuda]

Picture tells tells the story. I was buying other things from Husker and thought i would get this to compare. If the Mahle works, I will have a spare for down the road. If it doesn't fit, I'm prepared with OEM part. I did notice the Mahle's end seal is a loose part and it's stuck onto the Mann filter. Down inside the inlet end, the Mahle's oring is black and OEM is green. Finally, the Mahle is about 1/2" longer.

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by Yozh

Connect Here:

Attachment 1006071

Attachment 1006072

Attachment 1006073

Disconnect Here:

Attachment 1006074

Attachment 1006075

Give it about 8V and 1.5A to get the pump going.

I have originally set the DC power supply to 8.5V and 1A, but when connected it just ate it all up and no pump action, so I had to connect and then raise the voltage and current, and at about 6V and it kicked in. I think motorbike 6V battery may be a quick and cheap solution. Should have also hooked up filter outlet to some kind of a tube to drain into a container. This will avoid a stream of diesel coming out splashing everywhere.

Polarity question for Yozh: Is the red/white striped wire positive and brown wire negative?

[floydarogers]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

Polarity question for Yozh: Is the red/white striped wire positive and brown wire negative?

Brown is negative/ground.

[Yozh]

Originally Posted by floydarogers

Brown is negative/ground.

Ditto.

[BB_cuda]

Thanks guys. I was pretty sure the stripe meant hot but thought I would ask as others will benefit too.

[Persian Whisperjet]

Any advice on the replacement fuel line clamp? Can I just use a regular old banjo clamp?

[montr]

Originally Posted by Persian Whisperjet

Any advice on the replacement fuel line clamp? Can I just use a regular old banjo clamp?

I tried to use fuel clamp but that did not work. Except for a small rubber flexible section, the fuel line are too hard to be clamped. I used a golf tee to plug the line from the filter toward the engine.

[Quasimodem]

Originally Posted by montr

I tried to use fuel clamp but that did not work. Except for a small rubber flexible section, the fuel line are too hard to be clamped. I used a golf tee to plug the line from the filter toward the engine.

That's a good idea. I tried to use my golf caddy, but he didnt want his finger to smell like diesel.

[Persian Whisperjet]

Wow, no kidding, that is an easy job. Very little fuel spilled out. I was at a club DIY day and one of the mechanics let me use his scan tool, which by default runs the pump for 180 seconds, so I was not forced to remove the rear seat.

[BB_cuda]

PW, what did you do for clamp? My filter has been changed by dealer once and they put different clamp on there (removable)

[Persian Whisperjet]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

PW, what did you do for clamp? My filter has been changed by dealer once and they put different clamp on there (removable)

BB, I think I am in the same boat -- there was a generic banjo clamp put on there by the dealer. I just re-used it. The tech, young guy but seemed to know his stuff, explained that the pressure at this stage is relatively low, it's more of a"lift punp" until it gets to the HPFP.

[montr]

For the fuel line clamp, I used one from this kit:
http://www.autozone.com/1/products/1...n-799-440.html

So far, no leak

[BB_cuda]

Okay, It's my turn to be in a big pile of brown stuff. sorry for the novel but you need whole story to understand what trouble shooting I have done so far.

I did fuel filter service today. Firstly, either the Mahle or Mann filter fits just fine. Earlier posting covered those part numbers.

I installed the Mahle filter. I bought a 3' piece of fuel hose and slipped it on the filter outlet and other end in a bucket. I used the golf tee like someone earlier mentioned for the line going to engine. Only a little spilled out of the engine side line. A fair amount ran out of the filter side. I wasn't concerned as I planned to manually power the pump.

So, on with the show. I pulled of the right rear bolster per yozh instructions.
I found the above described red/white and brown wires. I disconnected the connector from module. I used these "T" type pins from sewing store as they are great for poking into jacket of wires to do checking.

T pins were inserted into the two slots and 2 more were stuck into the wire jackets. This was done to verify the ones in slots had good contact. All this worked fine. One thing I noticed was when I hadn't moved one of the leads over to opposite side yet, I still got a beeping noise when looking across the motor leads. This is the foreshadowing point of the story (maybe).

I hooked up the power supply to the T pins and couldn't get the pump to run. I tried several other things which in the end likely made my problem worse. Those were (1) trying to push the leads back out of the connector to be able to alligator on the pins. no go. I couldn't get them out. (2) digging up 12 gage house wire and hammering ends flat enough to get the copper ends to fit into the slots. This was probably the final blow to the connector.

The power supply was doing weird things though all of this. I would first set the voltage to 10V and then adjust the current. When I would start adjusting the current, the voltage fell down to ~ .11V.

I went ahead and adjusted the current to about 1 amp and then went back to voltage and dialed it up to 10V again and locked it down (hold voltage button down). I played several games trying 9V, 10V, 12V and cranked current as high as 2 amps. Still no joy, nothing ran into my pan.

So, mr. inpatient gets pissed and just hooks the connector back to the module and tries to start the car. I cranked several times for 6-8 seconds and it never starts. I get a message on the screen that says:
"Fuel pump malfunction. Reduction in engine power or shutdown possible. Drive moderately! Have the system checked by the nearest BMW center."

I disconnect the battery. I disconnect the output of the fuel filter . Yozh is texting with me giving me several ideas. I pull the back seat out (bottom portion). I unbolt the a round access lid going to fuel tank top connectors. I disconnect the same red/white and brown leaded connector to see the bare pins that go to pump. I repeat attempts at powering and still NO JOY.

My power supply could be fooling me here so I'm not at the point of declaring the lifting pump as dead.

I do some more trouble shooting and determine that the opposite end of this little harness is not properly feeding current to the pump. I figured this out by doing 2 things.
1) with module end of harness installed but pump end disconnected, I used multimeter to see if power was coming to pump. NO. I had to crank engine to see this. Hate to keep doing that!
2) removed harness from module and clipped onto leads of the module. Cranked again and saw 9.48 VDC. So, I need to either figure out whats up with this connector's contacts or solder another one on.

I am very temped to hook up a battery directly to the pump leads to show that I can get fuel coming out of the filter. If that doesn't work then the lifting pump is bricked.

Okay, let me have some ideas. Please read everything closely as its packed with detail. I will try to push the contacts back up inside. The connector is very loose and doesn't feel firmly clicked in.

Yozh is checking pump pin to pin resistance and also how firm does the harness to module connection feel.

[Yozh]

First the disclaimer. I do not exactly remember how I did it when I did my fuel filter. I had a lab grade power supply and remember setting it to 12V 1A and had to crank the amps to turn the pump. I think it worked at 1.5-2A. But voltage did drop, and according to my electrical engineers at work it is normal.

So, here is what I tested tonight. Voltage is not present at the fuel lift pump connector in any state except when the vehicle is running, that means is acc mode or ignition on mode. There goes the theory that turning on the ignition turns on the pump. I did not try having ignition on for even a few minutes though, no pressing pedals, turning switches etc. (there is a way to bleed the cooling system on N54, but whatever).

Here are my measurements:
-car not running: V=0, R=0.08, very similar to yours Cuda.
-car running: V=8.69, R=193ohm

There goes the ohm's law out of the window though. If running the pump we are at 193 ohm, then we should be pulling 0.045A, and this may be entirely possible at idle where there is not a lot of load. Initial cranking of the pump may need that 1.5-2A. Or my resistance measurement is flawed as it was measured in-line hooked to the harness.

Will post pics of the connector for Cuda.

[Yozh]

Pics of the connectors are attached. As you can see the male ends are very thin and if you had tried to press anything in the female side of the connector, you may have potentially damaged the connectors now that there is no contact when plugged in. You should be able to pull the connectors with wires out of the housing and see if you can repair them, if not, can always crimp new ones on. Need a special crimper usually.





I had used these connectors to splice into the harness and then I connect to them to be able to run the pump. They seem to be holding up well under the rear seat.



RealOEM has this for socket parts. I would probably go for the 1.5-2.5mm one. I'm sure local dealer will have these.




Hope this helps.

[RollingCoal]

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...1&postcount=78

I just want to confirm that if you connect as Yohz has, unplug the factory plug, then simply attach your leads to a 12-Volt Lawn Mower battery, the pump will run. I just changed my filter and was able to cycle the pump for 30 seconds 4 different times. There was obviously air burbling during the first cycle, but the last 3 were all smooth.

[Persian Whisperjet]

Does anyone know if you can activate a pump purge using RHEINGOLD?