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      04-07-2015, 06:40 PM   #1
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Cobb Tune sucks or My car has problems

Guys,

I just got my car back from the shop after having the 7" VRSF FMIC installed.
I switched to Stage 2 + FMIC Aggressive since I'm in Florida and have 93 Oct gas. The car backfired several times and the tune doesn't seems to run smoothly.

Some background info:

Before I installed the FMIC, I started the car a few days ago and it idled roughly and went into limp mode. I shut the car off and restarted and it idled perfectly. My mechanic who installed the FMIC read the codes and they were misfire related.

My mechanic is worried that my HPFP is on the way out not because of the misfires necessarily, but because of a long crank when starting the car.

Could my rough Cobb tune issues be related to a weak fuel pump not providing enough fuel for the advanced timing of the tune?

I don't think the cobb tune should run this poorly.

BTW, just had the spark plugs changed a week ago.

Any ideas? How do I post a log?
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      04-07-2015, 06:59 PM   #2
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Post a log dude. It could be the tune or it could be hardware, but your thread title is a bit of a misnomer don't you think? The OTS maps are only considered 'bad' because they don't make the same numbers as a protuned car, not because they destroy your car.
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      04-07-2015, 07:16 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asrautox View Post
Post a log dude. It could be the tune or it could be hardware, but your thread title is a bit of a misnomer don't you think? The OTS maps are only considered 'bad' because they don't make the same numbers as a protuned car, not because they destroy your car.

LOG HERE:

http://www.datazap.me/u/hphound/cobb...g=0&data=1-6-8
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Last edited by HP_HOUND; 04-07-2015 at 08:53 PM..
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      04-08-2015, 10:04 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HP_HOUND View Post
Looks like that one was just you driving around a bit. Didn't see anything out of the ordinary in that one. Can you post one of a 3rd gear full throttle pull?
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      04-08-2015, 10:27 AM   #5
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If you had problems before the tune then it would only get worse once you add it.

Resolve the funky idle and misfire issue without the tune on. It may be HPFP or if the misfires are only on one cylinder maybe coilpack or injector.

Unfortunately your issue is very broad so there isn't one distinct answer to your problem.

Last edited by Jeff@TopGearSolutions; 04-08-2015 at 10:40 AM..
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      04-08-2015, 05:27 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asrautox View Post
Looks like that one was just you driving around a bit. Didn't see anything out of the ordinary in that one. Can you post one of a 3rd gear full throttle pull?

Ok I'll try to post one later tonight. Thanks
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      04-08-2015, 05:31 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions View Post
If you had problems before the tune then it would only get worse once you add it.

Resolve the funky idle and misfire issue without the tune on. It may be HPFP or if the misfires are only on one cylinder maybe coilpack or injector.

Unfortunately your issue is very broad so there isn't one distinct answer to your problem.
The only issue I had before the tune was a long crank at startup. The misfires appeared after the tune. Also with the Cobb OTS stage 2 +FMIC, I have backfires when I go WOT as it shifts into 3rd gear.

Can it be the coils already at 39K miles?
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      04-08-2015, 05:36 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HP_HOUND View Post
The only issue I had before the tune was a long crank at startup. The misfires appeared after the tune. Also with the Cobb OTS stage 2 +FMIC, I have backfires when I go WOT as it shifts into 3rd gear.

Can it be the coils already at 39K miles?
You need the codes.

If you have one misfire on one cylinder, you can just swap the coil to another good cylinder and see if it follows.

If that doesn't work then you might have a leaky injector.

You can pull the spark plug to see if it's fouled.

Again, you'll need the codes to determine which cylinders to look at.
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      04-09-2015, 06:07 AM   #9
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Your car like a lot of N55s runs rich and backfires. I don't think anything is wrong with your car IMHO as I've seen people reporting this issue before. Send a log over to PTF see what they say. I think they can tune that out for ya.
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      04-09-2015, 06:40 AM   #10
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Since your coils have almost 40k on them I'm guessing so do your plugs. Replace them and gap them to .022". But like Jazz said, the OTS maps run pretty rich which causes misfires on N55s.
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      04-09-2015, 07:13 AM   #11
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My plugs were changed 50 miles ago ( last week ). I caught the problem on a log. See attached: I went into limp mode and read the following codes:

P2EFE
P2F03
P2F04
P2F00
P2EE0
P2EF1
P2EF4
P2EE7

http://www.datazap.me/u/hphound/back...g=0&data=1-6-8
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      04-09-2015, 12:53 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HP_HOUND View Post
My plugs were changed 50 miles ago ( last week ). I caught the problem on a log. See attached: I went into limp mode and read the following codes:

P2EFE
P2F03
P2F04
P2F00
P2EE0
P2EF1
P2EF4
P2EE7

http://www.datazap.me/u/hphound/back...g=0&data=1-6-8
Did you google these codes at all? One of them goes to this thread - which mentions he installed new plugs and they ended up being gapped incorrectly:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=971064
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      04-09-2015, 03:51 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drdingo View Post
Did you google these codes at all? One of them goes to this thread - which mentions he installed new plugs and they ended up being gapped incorrectly:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=971064
Thanks for the info.

I didn't look up all the codes yet. This same issue happened to me after I had the BMW P/E installed. In fact after I left the shop that did the install, I experienced the first instance of misfires, so I turned the car around and went straight back to the shop. My mechanic who works exclusively on German cars and races BMWs read the codes off on his top of the line Bosch scanner ( I think it is a Bosch ) and I showed him the Cobb codes which he quickly informed me that the Cobb displays standard OBC codes and his scanner reads BMW specific trouble codes which are much more accurate. To make a long story short I got the feeling that some of the OBC codes maybe misleading. He recommended I change the spare plugs which I had him do.

Also, I'm in the process of getting a protune from Pro-tuning freaks and just received my first map back from Dzenno. He said that the backfire is quote: "Not uncommon at all especially with an intake and yes we should be able to calibrate that out.". I will update the thread later after I run the first map from PTFs.

I'm getting the feeling that this maybe a known problem for the N55 as stated by Jazze90.
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      04-09-2015, 06:38 PM   #14
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Il say it again. Did you get the spark plugs gapped to .022"?
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      04-10-2015, 12:08 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weehe126 View Post
Il say it again. Did you get the spark plugs gapped to .022"?
The shop did it and I wasn't there so I don't know what the gap is. As far as the codes:

I found this thread:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ighlight=P2F03

The thing is I had the same codes show up on the old plugs which is why I changed them in the first place. The issue started after I installed the BMW P/E. I already had the down pipe in for a couple of days. Maybe it is a coincidence, but the same issue and codes before on the old plugs, which prompted me to change the plugs. After the plugs were changed I throw the same codes after a pull. I might check with the shop and see what the part number is on the new plugs they installed.
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      04-10-2015, 08:05 AM   #16
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Ok, keep chasing other things first if you want. But if your plugs are not gapped to .022-.026, you WILL get misfires now that you are running more boost.
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      04-10-2015, 08:20 AM   #17
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We were the ones that introduced the NGK 5992 spark plugs as an alternative to OEM 3-prong N54 Bosch plugs a few years back.

We don't believe there is any reason to use them on the N55 unless going with a very large non-hybrid turbo and tons of boost and ignition timing which isn't the case these days with most N55s out there by far.

Its a little like how people attempt to be experts on what oil to use in their motor and then end up finding out various seals are going suddenly, more wear showing on a Blackstone labs report etc etc.

Don't change these basic things unless you absolutely must. A shorter gap on the plugs is not better for performance. You want the largest gap your ignition system can bridge as it promotes the highest quality burn. Shorter gapped plugs than they need to be will reduce efficiency and cab actually cause a power loss, generally speaking.
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      04-10-2015, 09:38 AM   #18
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I agree you want to run the largest gap possible for your spark plugs. However, that largest gap seems to be around .022-.026". If i am not mistaken, the plugs come out of the box around .032", so that is a decent difference. If you have proof of people running larger gaps at higher boost please post it.
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      04-10-2015, 10:02 AM   #19
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I never said you need to run a larger gap or that 0.032" is the right gap. I said don't touch the OEM plugs as there's no point and in most cases people end up either gapping the plug wrong or moving the ground strap back/forth which should never be done with Iridium plugs that have laser welded ground straps.

Just use OEM and don't worry about this.
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      04-10-2015, 01:02 PM   #20
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I found this thread which seems to describe my issue

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...=667694&page=2
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