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Would it be a good idea to have a break-in transmission fluid change?
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07-17-2010, 02:37 AM | #1 |
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Would it be a good idea to have a break-in transmission fluid change?
My car is at 1500 miles now and has already had its first oil change. Does the 6AT need to have its fluid changed too? I'm planning on keeping my 335i until it hits 200k on the odometer (I can HEAR the laughs already) and although it would generally be a good idea for longevity, I'm wondering whether it's worthless like nitrogen in tires.
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07-17-2010, 06:33 AM | #2 |
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I subscribe to the old school maintenance Mike Miller from Roundel/BMWCCA recommends the 1200 mile break in maint including changing the ATF, then every 30k after. I did the break in service on the engine, but with the transmission, it dirties the oil slower and the filter has already trapped any dangerous material after the first few runs, unlike an engine that dirties it's oil faster. I will probably do a 15k change and then 30k after in mine - it's an expensive change in my book at 1200.
Rob
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07-17-2010, 08:12 AM | #4 | |
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If no codes are being thrown use Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner (concentrate). It solves rpm fluctuating upon cold start-up. Also, for most BMW problems start off by scanning your car with the Peake Research Tool. It contains the actual BMW codes. If you want to register a newly installed battery for free (just buy a $10 cable) and google/download BMWLogger
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07-17-2010, 08:38 AM | #6 |
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I believe in it wholeheartedly. The MT fluid change is super easy to do and can be done for ~$20. There really isn't any good reason not to do it. Personally, I changed my engine oil, tranny fluid, and diff fluid at 1200 miles - just like is required for the ///M cars.
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07-17-2010, 08:53 AM | #7 |
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I never gave it any thought, so too late, I guess. Because I did do a 1600 mi. (late by 400 mi.) oil change when my car was new.
I would ask, what is recommended on the M cars? If the M cars get a MT fluid change, then so should a 335i. Of course, that's if you've purchsed the car. If not, no need, it's not your car nor worry, maintain it by the book. |
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07-17-2010, 10:36 AM | #8 | |
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07-17-2010, 11:30 PM | #11 |
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Unless I am mistaken, the AT fluid is not the garden variety in the 335i, nor is the procedure to replace it. Both are very costly and it needs to be done in a specific, time-intensive manner. If you're going to do it, take it to someone who knows what they're doing, and be prepared to lay out some cash.
I was going to do that with my old 335i and was talked out of it by my independent mechanice, who told me to wait closer to 50K. I did change the oil and diff at 1200 and 1500 respectively. J |
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07-18-2010, 12:31 AM | #13 |
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I wish I could tell you - my old maintenance records are on the way to Hawaii with my car... I think it was around $100.
My mechanic said it looked pretty dirty when he changed it. |
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07-18-2010, 08:17 AM | #14 |
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Since it was brought up, here are the DIYs for the differential and manual transmission:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...t=differential http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...t=differential
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If no codes are being thrown use Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner (concentrate). It solves rpm fluctuating upon cold start-up. Also, for most BMW problems start off by scanning your car with the Peake Research Tool. It contains the actual BMW codes. If you want to register a newly installed battery for free (just buy a $10 cable) and google/download BMWLogger
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07-22-2010, 07:37 PM | #15 |
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I did my rear differential by myself in my personal garage at 50k. I used rhino ramps and a floor jack and it was pretty easy, however it is much easier if you have another person and car handy. The fluid was hardly tainted and it just gave me a better peace of mind. I tried to do the tranny fluid by myself using rhino ramps but it was still too tight of a clearance for me to feel comfortable. I ended up taking it to a local shop and when they saw that I showed up with the oem fluid and extra drain and fill plugs, they knew I did my homework so I helped them do it. They only charged me $40 for an hour and a half to fully drain and refill the transmission. My ATF at 50K was also slightly discolored but it still probably had another 50K miles left in it. Afterward it did shift smoother so I feel pretty good about it. Overall both fluid changes set me back around $160 total cost including shop fees. If you are going to keep it for a long time I suggest doing it at or before 50K. Turkeybaster and a few other great guys on the forum also have some great additional pics.
Last edited by conceptbass03; 07-22-2010 at 07:38 PM.. Reason: spelling correction |
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07-23-2010, 06:49 AM | #16 |
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100% NO.NO.NO. And Nitrogen is the most idiotic services I've seen on the consumer market. Might as well just burn $20 with a lighter. Consumer reports did a test using Nitrogen and it had zero affect on the AP or condition of a tire (Tire's have a max life of 6 yrs regardless of tread depth to begin with).
M Miller's old school does not include MTF/ATF fluid changes at 1200 miles. It only mentions rear diff changes (aside from engine oil). |
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07-23-2010, 09:47 AM | #17 | |
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07-23-2010, 11:34 AM | #18 |
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Fudge..I'm reading it now and he said they used to do a MT/AT chang, but ya know he also says BMW used to do 15k miles for AT and 30k for MT.
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07-23-2010, 12:25 PM | #19 |
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07-23-2010, 01:06 PM | #20 |
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If you are within the warranty period I would use OEM oil only. You don't want them to try to void the warranty.
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If no codes are being thrown use Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner (concentrate). It solves rpm fluctuating upon cold start-up. Also, for most BMW problems start off by scanning your car with the Peake Research Tool. It contains the actual BMW codes. If you want to register a newly installed battery for free (just buy a $10 cable) and google/download BMWLogger
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07-24-2010, 09:28 AM | #21 |
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