[335dlci]

Abc wont fix a mechanical malfunction. Where are you located?

[GmikeHall]

I am in South GA about 3 hours south of Atlanta.

I have not found all that much as far as 335D no start issues. I assume glow plugs may could be the cause but even my CR 5.9 Cummins that I swapped into my F250 years ago starts right up on 20deg mornings and I never hooked up the grid heater. I mean the way it is hard to start would kind of point to glow plugs but it seems like it wouldnt be that difficult to get started up in warmer temps and for sure when the car was already warmed up.

I have INPA installed on a very old xp laptop I had but the cable I had purchased was not compatible with 2009 cars. I am searching for the right cable and then hopefully I can get to the bottom of what is ailing this car. What is so odd is that even after the no start and it still having the horribly rough idle the car seems to run great above 1500rpm although it did stumble at higher RPMs last night.

[GmikeHall]

Well, she started right up this afternoon but a few moments after starting this knocking started. I can turn the car off then back on and the knocking takes a few seconds before it starts. What in the world am I up against here? I would love to think this is something simple but I sure doubt it at this point.

[GmikeHall]

The knocking seems to come and go. I just started it up and shut it down 10 times and the knocking was not present. I also started unhooking vacuum lines to see if it changed how it is idling but there was no change. All the vacuum lines look original but look in pretty good shape although you can not see beyond the fabric sleeve that is over them. I even unplugged the EGR and throttle body and there was no change in how it is idling. With the EGR and throttle body unplugged it did go into limp mode but as far as the idle there was no change at all.

[335stoner]

did you check the oil level?

[GmikeHall]

Yep, Oil level is fine. It does not sound like a bearing or oiling issue it sounds like maybe the swirl flaps are failing after finding some videos of M57 engines making the same kind of noise. I am going to park the car and start tearing into it to see what is going on.

[Yozh]

Originally Posted by GmikeHall

Well, she started right up this afternoon but a few moments after starting this knocking started. I can turn the car off then back on and the knocking takes a few seconds before it starts. What in the world am I up against here? I would love to think this is something simple but I sure doubt it at this point.

What about the harmonic balancer. I know you have a few miles in the car, is it still original?

Be careful pulling vacuum lines at random. You can break all the little plastic nipples they are on. They should not be easy to pull off if they are original.

At this mileage, you need to do a lot of preventive maintenance, refresh items. Start with CBU. Battery, harmonic balancer, all the fluids and filters. All the vacuum lines. Knocking could also be caused by a bad injector.

[GmikeHall]

I think I figured out the Inpa and this is what I found as far as fault codes. Looks like there is for sure some issues.

[Dlude]

Originally Posted by GmikeHall

I ordered a cheap INPA K+CAN cable in hopes of being able to check out the codes and maybe narrow down the issue. One thing I will note which I forgot to mention is that when I removed the engine cover there was a ton of soot covering the throttle body and that general area.

Regarding the soot around the throttle body area check the clamp that connects the egr cooler to the throttle body. When I removed the egr cooler to swap my thermostat I didn't tighten that clamp well and got a lot of noticable soot buildup. Once I took off and retighten I have had none since.

[335stoner]

did you look up the codes?

also just keep in mind that 1 issue can cause a ton of other codes.

[temporaptor]

Looks like some injector issues. And egr issues
Here are of few of the codes you posted
Cylinder 3 misfire. EGR rate control deviation. Cylinder 5 misfire. Possible EGR leaks. EGR open or short to ground. Open circuit in erg controller. Throttle-valve actuator, activation: Open circuit.
Some of those codes had no definition when I looked them up.

[GmikeHall]

I also noticed injector, egr, and Mass air issues in those codes. I really wish I could get the INPA to go into each individual module to see what exactly is going on but it keeps giving me an error. I am going to go ahead and remove the intake and see what is going on. That knocking sounds I do believe was a swirl flap and I sure do not want one of those coming apart.

[335stoner]

ya start with pulling the intake. I'm sure you probably have some CBU that is causing all the codes.

[apexit4]

Does the frequency of the knock change relative to your RPM?

I'm far from an expert, but my first thought was rod knock when I heard the sound. If it the frequency changes with higher RPM, it could further point to possible bearing issues.

[335stoner]

he said everything seems good in that aspect

[GmikeHall]

Well, Carbon buildup is not going to be the issue. Yes the intake and ports have some oily carbon build up but its not bad at all and honestly I doubt I would go through the trouble of walnut blasting the ports the carbon buildup is so minor. All the swirl flaps are in tact which I am glad to see but they are getting removed before I put the car back together anyhow.

Rod knock i have read is very uncommon on these engines and besides wouldn't rod knock be present all the time? After those few times I heard the knocking I was not able to get the car to do it again after turning the car off and on at least 10 times. I assume being the swirl flaps are all in tact that they were not the cause of the knocking so I guess a failing injector may have to be the cause. It would make sense with the rough idle.

[GmikeHall]

I just ran the car again and went through the injectors unplugging them one at a time to see if there was any changes in how the engine ran. I found when unplugging the 5th injector there was no change in how the engine was running but all the other injectors when unplugged caused the engine to turn off. I can only assume that the 5th injector is the whole issue. I sure hope I do not run into the issues I have seen others have when pulling an injector.

[apexit4]

Originally Posted by GmikeHall

I just ran the car again and went through the injectors unplugging them one at a time to see if there was any changes in how the engine ran. I found when unplugging the 5th injector there was no change in how the engine was running but all the other injectors when unplugged caused the engine to turn off. I can only assume that the 5th injector is the whole issue. I sure hope I do not run into the issues I have seen others have when pulling an injector.

Send me a message if you need another injector. I have 6 extras from the engine swap I am doing on my 335D.

[Flight335d]

I too recently bought a high mileage 335d, mine is a 2011 and has a 180k miles. I drive a 100 miles a day. My SES light came on two weeks ago and I have two codes one is for glow plug #6 the other is injector number 2 at min adaptation. I plan on replacing all the glow plugs and the glow plug module once the parts arrive.

In anticipation of needing to change fuel injectors during my ownership, I fabricated a simple slide hammer to extract them from stuff I had laying around. I have not tried it yet, but If you want to try what I did you will need:

1) M12 1.50 nut (same thread as injector. I used old lug nut off my truck)
2) 5 or 6 inch 3/8 bolt and nut
3) biggest impact or heavy socket you have or similar item to use as the slide hammer

weld the 3/8 nut to the M12 lug nut

a) thread the M12 onto injector

b) put the bolt through the big socket and thread into the 3/8 nut.

use the socket as a slide hammer...this should generate enough impact to tap the injector out. I have not tried mine yet, but I think it will work and I had all the parts laying around and I have a welder. good luck

Please keep posting your progress...

[GmikeHall]

Well, I think I have everything sorted out. Finally getting ISTA working was a huge help. The knock was due to a misfire from an injector not properly seated and sealed. I fixed that issue and got started on the ABC delete. I just finished up the DPF, SCR delete tonight. I thought I would be able to use a buddies lift at his auto shop but they were backed up for a solid week. I ended up just jacking the car up as High as I could and built some cribbing blocks to put under the wheels to ensure the car was not going to come crashing down on me. The job was not that bad, the motor mount bolts were somewhat difficult to get to but not any worse than other vehicles I have worked on in the past. Rather than forking out the cash for a full exhaust I just gutted the SCR. I still have to drop the DEF tank but I can wait on that. While I was at it, I upgraded all my vacuum lines to silicon so maybe I will not have any leaking lines any time soon. As for my DDE, I had a fellow member on here do some tuning for me and i was impressed before I got the deletes finished but now this car is stupid fast. Just removing the DPF and SCR made a huge difference in as I had run the car about 150 miles on the tune before I got to work on the deletes. Next is Water/Meth injection and possibly a transmission tune at some point down the road. I already have the Torqbyte CM5-LT controller on the way and I will get the pump and all the rest of the bits in a few weeks after recouping from all the recent costly repairs/mods. haha

[335stoner]

that's awesome you were able to "salvage" the injector junk and just reseat and seal!!

[BB_cuda]

Yes, the thread sounded a bit scary earlier on. Glad you worked through and got on with the deletes. We’ve seen a number of folks do deletes on a car that had trouble already brewing. Best to sort out the problems before introducing a bunch of other changes.