|
|
|
|
|
|
BMW Garage | BMW Meets | Register | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read |
|
BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
>
EGR Block-Off Install
|
|
04-22-2014, 06:43 PM | #25 |
Banned
418
Rep 1,040
Posts |
No need to with the kit. Hopefully one of the guys will post some pics soon to show the install.
Last edited by iaknown; 04-29-2014 at 12:10 PM.. |
Appreciate
0
|
04-22-2014, 06:46 PM | #26 |
Banned
418
Rep 1,040
Posts |
|
Appreciate
0
|
04-22-2014, 06:47 PM | #27 | |
Lieutenant
112
Rep 422
Posts |
Quote:
PM sent ...
__________________
2015 535d Xdrive Sophisto Grey Metallic
-DUDMD Stage 1 -xHP Transmission Flash 2014 X5 50i Carbon Black/ M Sport -BM3 Stage 1 |
|
Appreciate
0
|
04-22-2014, 07:13 PM | #28 | |
Major
87
Rep 1,152
Posts |
Quote:
I hope somebody would post a "how to install" the plugs. Who knows, maybe I can do it myself, as I know mechanics will not touch this stuff. |
|
Appreciate
0
|
04-22-2014, 09:19 PM | #30 |
Banned
418
Rep 1,040
Posts |
One plug (the one pictured in this thread) slides in between the exhaust manifold and the EGR cooler. The other (see pics of before and after w/disc) goes between the opposite end of the EGR cooler and EGR valve up top, where the band clamp is.
Last edited by iaknown; 04-23-2014 at 11:17 PM.. |
Appreciate
0
|
04-23-2014, 11:59 PM | #31 |
Major
87
Rep 1,152
Posts |
I would definitely want them, but I need to clarify some issues with the software and how to install (and take out as needed... smog check maybe).
Would the fault codes be of any concern if the plates are in without any software mods? Should I take them out for smog check purposes, or will there be no problem with them on? |
Appreciate
0
|
04-24-2014, 02:05 AM | #33 |
Colonel
868
Rep 2,615
Posts |
I just finished mine and pics are coming in a few. Took me about two hours, but then I was cleaning a lot of old oil residue, looks like I have a bit of a leak from turbo oil pipes . And taking pictures, figuring out stuff.
So to begin, tools needed: -good light, the one that is head mounted works good; -a helping hand is great if you need tools passed quick, otherwise alone is fine; -pliers, needlenose as well if you drop stuff and to pull clips; -flathead screwdriver to separate electrical and CCV connections; -T45, T30, T25, may be others? These are torx, need T45 on a wrench with extension to crack loose torx on the exhaust side of the EGR cooler; -sockets: 13mm, 10mm, 8mm, 7mm, 6mm; -allen keys, you will need one to use with T30 and screwdriver adapter to unscrew MAF; -rags to clean; -rag to stick in the turbo inlet to avoid dirt; -dish for your fasteners so you do not lose any. |
Appreciate
0
|
04-24-2014, 03:29 AM | #35 |
Colonel
868
Rep 2,615
Posts |
Remove the Engine Cover
Remove Front Cold Air Piping (items 12 and 9 - image below) and stock Airbox with filter. Remove MAF (item 1- image below), some people remove it with the Air Box. Last edited by Yozh; 04-24-2014 at 03:36 AM.. |
Appreciate
0
|
04-24-2014, 04:04 AM | #36 |
Colonel
868
Rep 2,615
Posts |
Shoot, I just realized that one has to insert all the images in one post, can't go back and edit them in, sorry about this.
Then the whole Filtered Air Pipe (item 3) gets to be removed. Top portion of this pipe can be removed first, fairly easy. Then the bottom parts that is connected to CCV. You need to pull out metal clips at the top of pipe (item 5). There are two, one facing forward and one back. Forward is easy to pull with needle nose pliers, back one I did not pull just took a flathead screwdriver and moved the prongs towards driver side, so the clip would disconnect. It would be hard to pull it out and not lose it. Also, a fillister head screw needs to be undone. Screw will not fully come out but will hang in the bracket on the pipe. See yellow highlights in the pic below for the areas where clips and screw are: Here is a picture with pipe removed: And here is the pipe itself: May be there is another way to remove things, but this has worked for me to prepare to undo the EGR cooler to install the block offs. |
Appreciate
0
|
04-24-2014, 04:10 AM | #37 |
Colonel
868
Rep 2,615
Posts |
Off Topic: interestingly, I found a drop of oil coming from the top CCV pipe, but the bottom of there filtered air pipe was quite clean and turbo inlet was clean as well. Still will consider adding an oil catch can to see how much I will collect. But that is for another thread.
|
Appreciate
0
|
04-24-2014, 04:28 AM | #38 |
Colonel
868
Rep 2,615
Posts |
I'll refer to the original RealOem diagram that I had posted very first.
To loosen the EGR cooler, there are a few fasteners. First with 13mm socket remove this one (item 4 in the RealOem diagram): Then same socket, remove this one, under the Vacuum Pump, this bolt is not shown in the RealOem diagram: Then remove this clamp (item 7) will need socket 8mm or 7mm (can't remember): Then with T45 and socket extension, remove these two (item 6): This shows them removed, move flange forward towards the front of the car: Pull lightly on the EGR cooler towards the front so you have a bit of space. No need to disconnect other coolant, vacuum or electrical connections. |
Appreciate
0
|
04-24-2014, 04:45 AM | #39 |
Colonel
868
Rep 2,615
Posts |
Onto an install. At first it would be better to install a plug/block/plate on the exhaust connection side of the EGR cooler. Reason is once it is there and bolts are back in place, you will not have such a large play on the EGR valve side of the cooler and it is easier to work with a thinner plate there.
Install of the block plate on the exhaust side is quite easy. Hold the block plate with your fingers while pushing the EGR cooler back into place. Fasten two torx bolts back, hand tight for now, will tight at the end. EGR valve side is a bit more tricky. Thin plate is easy to loose, I did and glad that I was able to find it. With less play now that the exhaust side is loosely in place, slide the thin plate What I found in my case, is that the flat block off plate is right at the diameter of the EGR cooler outlet pipe and when attached to the inlet of the EGR valve, it does not connect very well as inlet has a rounder lip. So, to bend the plate I would use pliers to squeeze the two parts together with plate being in between and that would mould it to the right shape. Have to do it a few times rotating: This shows one side of the plate bent the way desired When done, attach the clamp (item 7), tighten all the other bolts, reassemble the rest. Good Luck and hope this is not too much. PS: I had not driven the car yet, bit it started normally and no codes yet (of course, it was just at idle). SES light is expected tomorrow, until I do Ecotune. |
Appreciate
3
|
04-24-2014, 07:36 AM | #41 | |
Colonel
612
Rep 2,410
Posts |
Quote:
I was just barely able to get the exhaust connection loose with some 3/8 extensions on my wrench without taking off all that stuff around there. But it would be much safer/easier to see and reach and do the install they way you are showing. |
|
Appreciate
0
|
04-24-2014, 07:55 AM | #42 |
TL/DR
57
Rep 234
Posts
Drives: 2009 335d Sport
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Arizona
|
Awesome Write-up!
|
Appreciate
0
|
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|