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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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DTC, ABS, Start Assist and Cruise Control Failure
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10-07-2014, 09:45 AM | #89 |
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I just this done. Not sure if they used repair kit or not. Total bill for me was £100. Total bill without warranty was going to be £1600. It was 26AW's? I think, but that included reprogramming a new DSC module
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10-07-2014, 09:47 AM | #90 | |
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Where are you based? Maybe someone or myself can help? |
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10-07-2014, 12:11 PM | #91 | |
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I live over by Newbury.
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06-13-2015, 03:03 PM | #92 |
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Apologies for digging up this thread, but as I now have the same faults, I wondered if anyone else that has previously posted here might be able to comment.
Did any of you have the symptom where the ABS pump kicks in every time you turn the steering wheel beyond 1/8 of a turn (left or right) and you are braking? I can feel it through the pedal. It does it at any speed above 15mph. Braking with the wheel straight does not trigger it! |
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06-13-2015, 05:49 PM | #93 |
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No. And I haven't heard of this before. It sounds like your Abs pump is being triggered by the steering angle. Have you had the codes read yet?
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06-13-2015, 06:15 PM | #94 |
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06-14-2015, 06:05 AM | #95 |
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Yes I would imagine so. The app reads the modules present in the car and the codes in the modules. I think if you send the log file to the app authors they will provide a diagnosis free of charge.
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06-14-2015, 01:07 PM | #96 | |
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The ABS computer is recieveing incorrect data from one of the wheels which it interprets as a skid or similar, and thus takes action trying to fix it. |
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06-15-2015, 07:10 AM | #98 | |
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If I have an issue though I might take you up on your offer - thank you! I'm not too far from Southampton either. |
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09-07-2016, 06:17 PM | #99 |
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hi folks,
just got a georgeous 335d autovogue unfortunatley it has the lights on the dash relavant to this thread. i have the 2 fault codes that confirm the pump and module are at fault, ill be hopefully sending the pump and module for reconditioning this week. the parts are going to ecu testing and its going to cost me £195 (lifetime gurantee) + removal + refit and the cost of a brake bleed session. during my research into this matter i came across the this rather usefull video confirming everything that i have read on this forum and others. I hope new comers to the thread looking for answeres will find it usefull. job should be complete within 10 days ill report back when it is. |
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10-06-2016, 07:47 AM | #100 |
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I am currently having this issue but the car is not throwing any codes. I was going to start with the easy things like checking my battery and the wheel sensors. Any thoughts on what this could be with no fault codes?
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10-17-2016, 06:59 PM | #101 |
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Hi Eric.
The ABS unit may still be faulty. My unit threw the usual death faults but when it arrived at the great guys at ECUTesting they could find no faults. I asked them to rebuild it anyway and it now operates perfectly. These damn ATE units are a pain on a lot of modern cars and the fault reading can be a less than perfect. I prefer to drive without ABS but it's an MoT failure. By the way, on the refit I filled the unit with brake fluid before connecting any pipes and got away with a simple bleed job. Nice solid pedal. Tip. If you remove the rubber water drain assembly to make pipe access easier don't forget to refit it before you replace the module. It's almost impossible to get re-seated. Ask me how I know this....... |
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10-18-2016, 03:02 AM | #102 |
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I believe the root cause of the issue is the very low duty of the motor in normal use.
Normal use for the motor is probably 5-10 revolutions every time hill start assist is activated. The high current draw experienced during start will create some arcing on the commutator and the resultant fouling will lead to sticking brushes and a high resistance between brushes and commutator. I had the issue. I took a 50x25mm 150mm length of wooden baton and held it against the end of the motor. 5-6 sharp hits with a wooden mallet and the reset the fault codes. Upon test drive I used the cruise control with brake assist to slow the car 10-12 times from 70-30mph, thereby running the pump for 3-4secs at a time. Every time I exit the motorway with a clear slip road, I use the cruise control brake assist to slow the car. The fault has yet to return. |
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10-19-2016, 02:06 AM | #103 | |
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01-08-2018, 02:57 AM | #104 |
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Hi guys,
Looking for some advice/help... I have the dreaded 5DF0/5DF1 faults on my BMW 325i. For a while now the ABS, Handbrake and Traction control lights were on permanently on my dash. I purchased a used unit (pump & module) from a breakers which matched my part number and I was told it was in good working order. I had my local garage fit only the new pump to my existing ECU module and initially all the warnings lights disappeared however upon driving for a while the warning lights re-appeared and now come on intermittently. In hindsight I wish I went down the ECUtesting.com route. Has anyone on here encountered any similar issues at all or can anyone assist in any way. Thanks |
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01-09-2018, 04:33 AM | #105 |
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If you still have your old pump and module, send the to ECU Testing and have the pump repaired. That will minimise off the road time as you can change the pumps over in a couple of hours.
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11-15-2018, 01:21 AM | #106 |
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Hello everyone i’m the newbie here
Anyone has the time to read this ? 😃 3 weeks ago while driving my 328i in the heavy rains i got into a tremendous water puddle and a passing by truck splashed me all over too 😏 The engine started cutting off and jumping till i was obliged to shut the car down then the engine never started and The famous DSC DBC failure occurred with ABS too the car continue to crank but never starts The technician said it could be that water entered the engine then he told me the scanner shows the engine chain was misplaced 😳 so he took care of it and the car started normally One week ago the problem came back in the morning i started the car DSC & DBC & ABS welcome notes came again 😠 but the car cranks and never starts Took it to the technician the diagnosis came the car computer system (dunno the technical word)is fluctuating and if the problem reoccured it should be replaced but i didn’t like what he said he seemed very unprofessional 2 days the problem reoccured this time i called another technician and the moment he opened the creamy colored box on the right side and moved the cables the car started and no more messages appeared so he changed a blue dme relay because it showed faulty on the scanner 2 days later again the same scenario and when he shaked the cables in the creamy box the car starts but in the afternoon the car did it again this time i opened the box and shaked the hell out of the cables and nothing happened The car is now with him under supervision and it’s starting fine but when i get it it fails to start in the morning Can anyone tell me what the hell is going on ? And what should i expect ? Please if anyone has this happening to his car and got it fixed tell me what was the problem i’m confused if it’s a dsc and dbc failure i get it but why won’t the car start ? Dsc and dbc failure can prevent the car from starting ? then all of a sudden it all comes back fine with no faults ? Sorry for the long post but i’m getting desperate about this ... any help |
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12-09-2018, 12:37 PM | #107 | |
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12-12-2018, 09:07 AM | #108 |
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Just like some of you guys i'm having the same problem. Abs/dsc/cruisecontroll/ftm errors.
What i've changed: Abs sensor wheelbearing I get the following Errorcodes: Dynamische Stabilitaets Kontrolle / DSC Fault Code: 005DB1 Fault Explanation: :Yaw rate sensor DRS sends signal AY1 = invalid. (DRS-type MM 3.x). / Rear wheel speed sensor Left continuity (extrapolation) / Speed sensor, rear left extrapolation. / Steering angle sensor error jump / Yaw rate sensor DRS sends signal AY1 = invalid;. DRS-type MM 3.x --- (DSC: DSC sensor internal) / Yaw rate sensor DRS sends signal AY1 = invalid (DRS-type MM 3.x). Fault Code: 005DB6 Fault Explanation: :Yaw rate sensor DRS sends signal PSIP2 = unueltig. (DRS-type MM 3.x) / Advance Sense rear left. / Yaw rate sensor DRS sends signal PSIP2 = invalid;. DRS-type MM 3.x --- (DSC: DSC sensor internal) / Yaw rate sensor: DRS sends signal PSIP2 = ungeltig (DRS-type MM 3.x). / Excessive initialization time error Fault Code: 005DE2 Fault Explanation: :coding missing / DSC-ECU: ECU-internal: DePwm Status: software / hardware configurations do not match (DF11i / s). / EU-valve 1 / Lining Wear VA reaches critical coating thickness. / DSC�ECU: ECU-internal: DePwm Status: software / hardware configurations do not match; DF11i / s --- (DSC: controller internal) Fault Code: 005DB3 Fault Explanation: :Inlet valve (EV) Back Right - Error cyclic valve and relay test. / Inlet valve (EV) Back Right: Error cyclic valve and relay test. / Inlet valve (EV) Back Right: Error cyclic relay valve and test --- (DSC: control valve actuation device) / Wheel speed sensor rear left start up detection (comparison) / Speed sensor, rear left detecting starting v comparison. / Lateral acceleration sensor calibration error missing |
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01-10-2019, 05:59 PM | #109 |
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Dreaded 3 lights up. Second hand abs pump on the way from the same car but the part numbers are different so will have to code that in I guess unless I just swap the control module over? But before I start that and spend too much time for a simple fix the biggest thing killing me is when I’m in INPA. looking at steering angle stuff Iv noticed that the steering_wheel_F_Can AFS [GRAD] The Pointer is on -600 and the other end is ! - 1399.1 I’m going on the lines of this is Active steering? I need to check see if I have a green or black filler cap but on the vin check no active steering S217A. Any help would be great. Would supply a pic but new to the forum. All started after I had an alignment but only drove it 2 miles home after not till I went back to work 300 miles away it lit up grave blamed me shock.
Last edited by Thommo376; 01-10-2019 at 06:02 PM.. Reason: Spelling |
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01-10-2019, 06:09 PM | #110 |
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Iv had this too. Car was parked under a tree it’s rained then my car would not start just kept turning over. Turns out the drain holes under the cream box was full of crap and flooded the ECU inside. Tried to dry it out but no luck. Sent it off to be checked was dead. Got a new ecu and got it program cost like £400 I think. But I did need INPA to alight the CAS and another thing. Plenty of guides for it on here. Now every service I blast out the drain holes and park under cover of heavy rain is due. Hope this helps.
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