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      03-19-2008, 01:11 AM   #45
Coldintake
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I don't know if this has been asked.. but any reason why it doesnt come with a heatshield?
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      03-19-2008, 09:47 AM   #46
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Smile

Nexus, you have a bunch of great points that I agree with. And thanks for your suggestions for what to check. I really went over each hose to check for loose fittings/vacuum lines. I did ensure the hard vaccuum line clicked back in place. Nothing else seems loose from what I can tell. More importantly, the issue SEEMS TO BE GONE and the car seems great now. Who the hell knows what happened last night...I just hope that scariness is gone and never to return. I wanted to leave my experience in the post above though, in case others have the issue upon install, in hopes that they'll give it a day or two to adapt and hopefully correct itself. Also please note that I never got a CEL with either the hesitation or the surging.

I want to reinforce Nexus's point about the flexible small vaccuum line near the relocated PS reservoir. I did have this pinched initially but caught it right away, so this wasn't my issue. People should watch out for that though and maybe a good note to add to the install step.

I'm still at a loss as to what exactly caused my issue, but hopefully it's gone. I literally had nightmares last night of orange CEL's coming on whenever I pressed the gas pedal! My only guesses are still either going lean due to more air and causing either knocking and hence pulling timing then re-learning, or going lean from more air and the ecu dumping in a burst of fuel to quickly compensate, bogging it down. Like Nexus said though, I would really doubt we can feel the car adjusting fuel, pulling timing, etc as clearly as I felt this hickup/surge.

So, now that for the time being my car is glitch free, I can say that I swear I feel an increase in power from 5000 pm and on. I mean, the car just seems to rip. I turned up the radio to drown out the intake noise to get the mental effect out of my head that would make me think it should be faster. Maybe it's all in my head, who knows. I mean, what does an intake do for a stock car...5-8 hp. Probably hard to notice a 2% gain. Oh well, it seems great!

Again, A+ for the sound too. Just a little turbo hiss and air whoosh. No annoying intake growl or obnoxiousness. And, of course, it's absolutely silent and stock sounding at anything below about 40% throttle.

I'll be sure to post back in a day or three to confirm or deny that the problem stayed fixed. Fingers crossed!

Last edited by ezatnova; 03-20-2008 at 08:24 AM.. Reason: Added ratings of DIY
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      03-19-2008, 09:49 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coldintake View Post
I don't know if this has been asked.. but any reason why it doesnt come with a heatshield?

It's been discussed ad-nauseum, actually. To sum it up- a) you don't really need it. Where do you think your intake air goes? Yep, into a 1000 degree turbo housing. b) once you install this thing you'll see that there is VERY little room to mess around. It would be a challenging design. The intake is secured VERY close to: the stock snorkel, the old PS bracket, and the relocated PS reservoir.
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      03-19-2008, 07:33 PM   #48
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Quick update - I put 60 miles on the car today and actually did experience the same thing ezatnova experienced at 4500 or so. Now, I'm rather familiar with my car and how it runs...I run V2 and experiment with various user settings weekly to see how things adjust. Also, I'm running Forge DVs so my notes will be a bit different than most.

Under normal driving conditions (shifting at 3,500, moderate throttle) the intake noise is actually much louder than I anticipated. With low to moderate throttle openings it's a bottom of the cup sucking sound - more throttle = more pitch and turbo howl. But down low, it's certainly sucking and you can hear it. It's not annoying, but it's more more prevalent than I thought it would be. I attribute the difference in intake volume to the fact that the Forge valves are a bit more audible but without comparing to the stock valves, it's hard to say for sure.

The hitch/lag thing at 4,500 is there on my machine as well. I'm running the 2-26 v2.02 map at 90% and it actually reminds me of how the car felt before I had Forge DVs in - that slight lag after a shift as boost builds. After the Forge DVs went in, that all but vanished. Now, that feeling is there again but I'll need to do more testing to see what's what. 55 miles of testing and it didn't improve much. I've been running the yellow springs for the past 2 weeks, but may switch back to the green springs and see if there is any discernible difference.

Up top, it does feel a bit better but it's hard to say. 15hp at the wheels would be less than a 5% gain on my car and in my experience I don't really feel anything until about 20%. I did spin the PS2s at the top of 2nd gear on a stretch of road where that hasn't happened before so take that for what it's worth. heh

That said, it's nice piece of mind for future tweaks - the airbox is no longer a restriction, the piece is nicely designed and the best part is the weight, or lack thereof. It weighs almost nothing and that's a nice bonus.

For the price, I'd do it again - I liked the Ultimate, but not for the price and I wasn't fond of the finish in this particular engine bay and application.

An interesting side note - I left the snorkel out (the piece that funnels air from the kidney location) to see if it would lower oil temps - after all, any air blowing through there should directly hit the oil lines. I had exactly the opposite thing happen and my oil ran a consistent 5 to 10 degrees HOTTER without the snorkel there. Well, I assume that now because I need to replace the snorkel and try again. I was a bit surprised at that.
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      03-19-2008, 07:46 PM   #49
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That is great! I am glad everyone is happy with the HVi's!

Ezatnova: We also tested the intake against the BMC filter which is proven to make gains over stock. And our HVI made 8-10whp peak and a nice fa gain of TQ!! We have seen as much as 20 lbs of tq increase!! I do believe your noticeable gains are due to more power being produced. Let your car fully adapt and tell us how you like it then.

Very informative posts guys! Keep the calls and pms coming!

Best Regards,
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      03-19-2008, 07:59 PM   #50
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I wanted to see what other folks had in this regard with their install...

With the lower intake tract, the plastic hose cinches shut in a sort of puckered fashion when snugged tight (very tight I mean). I think this has to do with the curve of that lower pipe and how it fits, along with the fact that the actual intake tract is plastic and not rubber so there's not a lot of conforming to shape going on.

Anyhow, I always tighten clamps as tight as they will go - on this particular one, I'm wondering if I've overdone it (puckering = slight leaks). I can't imagine I have, but who knows - I've also never seen an intake tract pucker like that before (it wrinkles around the edge a little instead of sealing completely flush, but this is at the edge not where the clamp actually secures so I "think" it's just the leading edge puckering up a bit and that's not the case where the clamp actually is.
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      03-19-2008, 09:46 PM   #51
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I swapped the yellow springs out for the greens (softer) in the FDV's - much quieter under normal operation. Go figure. Sounds nice now - whooosh-y, not suck-y.

I'll give the car a full tank of gas and report anything back then.
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      03-20-2008, 08:39 AM   #52
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Nexus - I have the SAME THING with the bottom clamp

Nexus

I have the EXACT same issue/concern with my bottom hose clamp. I took a picture of it late Tuesday night but was too tired/lazy to post it. It shows exactly what you are talking about.

Due to the angle of that pipe, and the plastic nature rather than rubber of the hose, mine is crinkled around the edges with the clamp fully tightened. In fact, I was unhappy with this and kept tightening the clamp and blew it out, so now it only tightens moderately before it "pops" and loosens again. I'm picking up a new clamp today at Pepboys or something.

However, a better clamp will NOT fix the crinkled fit, that is "above" where the clamp sinches down, like you said. As you mentioned, this may not be a real issue because it's not crinkled under the clamp, just "above" it

I bet if you wrestle with the pipe and twist/pull it, it will move/slide around in that fitting, like mine does. Honestly, if I push the pipe hard enough back towards the firewall, while twisting, it comes right out of that bottom clamp! I was not thrilled at all with this, but calmed myself by saying that there is only mild SUCTION going on here, not high PRESSURE, so it shouldn't really be a danger.

Also, I'm glad I'm not insane and didn't imagine the hiccup at 4500 rpm after the install. So you are still consitently getting that problem? Did you ever feel the "surge" rather than the hesitation, like I did (I had two instances of each)? I've taken it to redline about 6-8 times since Tuesday night when the problem happened, and each time since the car has been fine. Please keep us posted!


Max, I'd love to get your thoughts on these topics as well, now that I'm not the only one to ever have the hesitation and also regarding the bottom clamp fit that Nexus and I discussed.
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      03-20-2008, 01:26 PM   #53
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I know I said I'd wait til the full tank was burned up, but I wanted to chime in on the hiccup thing.

I put another 50 miles on late last night, and another 40 this morning. The hiccup/hesitation is gone. The only changes between the first bit of driving (50 miles) and these last two trips are the green spring swap in my FDVs and tightening all of the clamps once they were nice and hot. You'll be able to put another 3/4 to full turn on each of the new clamps when hot. On the actual filter clamp I was able to put another 2 turns on it after a few heat cycles (it was fully tight when cold) and it's nice and "dug in" and sealing well.

Anyhow, no worries now.
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      03-20-2008, 01:32 PM   #54
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So...in our VERY limited pool of researchers, Nexus and I have the experience of the hesitation immediately after installing the intake in common, however, we do not have the diverter valves in common. Mine are stock. That leads me to believe the cause is the learning of the car due to the intake, not necessarily related to the diverter valves. I think it's safe to say - when installing this intake give the car a day or so to adapt and re-learn, and maybe it's even a good bet to unplug the battery for 15 minutes to clear it right away.
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      03-20-2008, 02:22 PM   #55
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I'd say the same thing but with a caveat - I unplugged my battery overnight the day before and I still had the adaptation time.

In other words, it's not so much a RE-learn requirement as a flat out learn time period which makes sense - I'm sure the default parameters take into account the stock airbox so it would make sense that a battery disconnect ECU clear doesn't immediately allow for proper adaptation - it fires up with a base map expecting the stock airbox and AFR and when it doesn't see that, adapts anyhow. Of course, the battery disconnect is easy and lets you start from a clean slate so to speak so there's no reason not to.

Plus I'd say give it 100 miles before reacting to anything. 50 miles for me wasn't enough. 145 miles later and it seems to be just fine.

And for other folks installing, double check the tightness of the clamps after a few heat cycles - you will be able to tighten them more.

One last random thought - Shiv has discussed the whole phase timing dip at 4500rpm for us V2 users which is normal...I'm wondering if for whatever reason this is simply more pronounced initially with a new intake (any new intake) providing new/different AFRs. Just a guess.
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      03-20-2008, 02:37 PM   #56
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All great points above. I'll add the the night I had the hesitations, I drove maybe 5-8 miles max. That's it. The next day they were gone (and I only drive 10 miles to work).
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      03-20-2008, 07:36 PM   #57
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I apologize if this is a little off topic but I just thought I would share...

Before a recent HVI install. We had the customer turn of the DTC completely and make a pass. he chirped the tires 1st to 2nd. We then installed the HVI and performed both DIY Ram air mods. After the install he drove the car hard to allow adaptation. When he returned the car broke the tires loose and got a little squirly going into 2nd gear and left a nice patch of rubber on the road. He said he can feel better throttle response. And that it felt noticeably better up top all the way to redline. Especially at highway speeds.

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Last edited by Max@Logic; 03-20-2008 at 08:59 PM..
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      03-21-2008, 10:34 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Max@Logic View Post
I apologize if this is a little off topic but I just thought I would share...

Before a recent HVI install. We had the customer turn of the DTC completely and make a pass. he chirped the tires 1st to 2nd. We then installed the HVI and performed both DIY Ram air mods. After the install he drove the car hard to allow adaptation. When he returned the car broke the tires loose and got a little squirly going into 2nd gear and left a nice patch of rubber on the road. He said he can feel better throttle response. And that it felt noticeably better up top all the way to redline. Especially at highway speeds.

Best Regards,
Max-
Not OT at all IMHO. People want to know all about the product!
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      03-22-2008, 11:08 PM   #59
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I just installed this today and wanted to add a few thing to help others who are gong to install. These are just additions to the Logic DIY.

When they have you remove this air hose, it may be a little tricky for some to get it unclipped.
Here is the hose from the DIY

While pinching in hard on these areas, you need to pull up at the same time, and it will unclip


The DIY from Logic doesn't really say how to remove the airbox, so I thought I would give some pointers. It is held on by three rubber grommets on plastic posts (these pictures are with the airbox removed)


Here are the posts it is attached to

Here is a close-up of the back posts (B & C)

I found the easiest way to remove the airbox was to pull up hard and release off the front post (A). Then I took a small screwdriver and stuck it down next to the post, between the post and grommet. This will allow you to stretch the grommet around the flanges on the posts, and will come up pretty easily.

I have a different PS reservoir because I have active steering, and it gave me some issues. As you can see the cap is different

There is also a bracket/post on the bottom that others don't have as far as I can tell

With the bracket/post left as stock, the PS reservoir had to be put in a way that interfered with the filter, and I could not install the filter. I tried just bending the bracket to get it to work, but that damn post on the bottom was still in the way. What I did was just bend the bracket back and forth until it broke off, and then I had no problem. It will be a cheap part if I ever do need to replace it, so I wasn't worried about it. Its number 2 on this diagram from RealOEM. Anybody think this is going to be a problem?

You can see how its different from the one without active steering.


My other project was to remove the bumper so I could replace the lower grilles with black ones from the 328, and remove part of the brake duct


The removal of the bumper was by far the most time consuming part of the install, as there are about 30 bolts you need to remove to get the bumper off.

Everything turned out great though, and I hope to be able to test it out tomorrow (started snowing when I finished up, so couldn't drive this afternoon)
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      03-23-2008, 01:24 PM   #60
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Nice work Craig! Thank You for posting more pics! FYI the bracket for your active steering ps reservoir can be fliped upside down and slid back on the reservoir. That way the little nipple does not interfere with the install.

Best Regards,
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      03-23-2008, 10:06 PM   #61
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Ah, that probably would have worked as well. Oh well, the bracket is only $12, so not a big deal either way.

I drove with the HVI in today and I am absolutely addicted to the sound the turbos make with it. Great product guys!
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      03-24-2008, 08:12 AM   #62
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Help finding hose clamp part #

Racey and others:
I am trying to find the part number for the hose clamp that connects the small pipe from the intake to the plastic flexible hose (not the larger one by the firewall, but the smaller one next to the alternator). I'm not having any luck browsing through Realoem.com. Can anyone help find this for me?

I bought some universal clamps at pepboys and home depot to replace mine but they are too wide and don't fit in the little track that the oem bmw clamp does. (I overtightened it and it's useless now that it's buggered up).
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      03-24-2008, 09:25 AM   #63
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http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...84&hg=13&fg=20
Part #07129952125

Looks like front and back hose clamps are the same.
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      03-24-2008, 10:24 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raceyBMW View Post
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...84&hg=13&fg=20
Part #07129952125

Looks like front and back hose clamps are the same.
Thank you very much, sir!
I wasn't looking in "fuel preparation"
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      03-26-2008, 03:41 AM   #65
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Air Filter

Nice job and good instructions but I do not see how this modification will improve performance. The car is now breathing hot air heated from the engine and it does not have a direct source of cold air which would increase power. You also got rid of the ram air effect of the stock system which gives you more power at highway speeds.
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      03-26-2008, 12:08 PM   #66
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Hi E92vancouver: You will find alot of usefull tech info on our intake here.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=125076


If you have any other questions, feel free to shoot me a pm.

Best Regards,
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