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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > All-Wheel-Drive (Xi / xDrive) Talk > ***Can you start the car after the transfer case bracket has been taken off??



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      06-24-2017, 06:56 AM   #1
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***Can you start the car after the transfer case bracket has been taken off??

I was doing a transfer case fluid change, but I forgot about the 14mm hex key, looked through the entire city for couple of hours, non of the stores have it.
The car is still on jack stands and the transfer case bracket and the long bolt has already been taken off, laying on the ground.

I bought a 14mm today, since the transfer case fluid needs to needs to be warm, I started the car and shifted to D. I heard metal clicking sound so I shifted back to P right away.

Can anyone tell me what sound was that? Did I break anything?

I tired to put the long tube back in, but the space is so tight, I think I'm going to drop the exhaust.
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Last edited by Blueeyesredpanda; 06-25-2017 at 01:44 AM..
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      06-27-2017, 03:30 PM   #2
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without that bracket, i would expect your engine/transmission to tilt back (causing the transmission to fall down). who knows how that will affect the shift mechanism, drive shaft, etc. probably not a good thing. Did the car move at all? or were the brakes still applied when you heard the clicking?
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      06-28-2017, 09:00 AM   #3
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Drive train probably rattled not having full support and made noise.
You can put that long bolt the other way around, makes it easy to install and remove next time.
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      06-28-2017, 09:03 AM   #4
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Also oil being warm helps with easier draining, flows better. But since you are doing it yourself you can wait long time for cold oil to drain, so cold oil is not a big issue if you ask me. Definitely not worth the trouble of trying to warm it when it is half disassembled.
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      06-28-2017, 10:48 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PhaseP View Post
Also oil being warm helps with easier draining, flows better. But since you are doing it yourself you can wait long time for cold oil to drain, so cold oil is not a big issue if you ask me. Definitely not worth the trouble of trying to warm it when it is half disassembled.
So I drained the fluid without putting it all back together today. Only 400mL came out.

I didnt take out the fill plug. (I know I should have take off the fill plug first).

I put a 14mm Allen into the fill plug, it was pretty lose, I could twist the 14mm Allen around as there's gap's on the fill plug. But I went ahead try to take it off anyways, it didnt work, the fill plug started to have a different shape.

I read the instruction on the forum and Pelican, watched the video on youtube, they all used 14mm...
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      06-28-2017, 10:50 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PhaseP View Post
Drive train probably rattled not having full support and made noise.
You can put that long bolt the other way around, makes it easy to install and remove next time.
Yes I heard about that too, but it only works for MT, I have an AT, the transmission is in the way
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      06-29-2017, 06:53 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blueeyesredpanda View Post
So I drained the fluid without putting it all back together today. Only 400mL came out.

I didnt take out the fill plug. (I know I should have take off the fill plug first).

I put a 14mm Allen into the fill plug, it was pretty lose, I could twist the 14mm Allen around as there's gap's on the fill plug. But I went ahead try to take it off anyways, it didnt work, the fill plug started to have a different shape.

I read the instruction on the forum and Pelican, watched the video on youtube, they all used 14mm...
Mine also had very little oil when I had drained, but filled until it came running out of the fill as the same amount spec said.
Yes the law of gear oil change: Always remove the fill plug first, then drain plug.
The drain and fill plugs are same size.
Maybe previous owner attempted at this with undersized wrench and messed the plug. Or there is some dirt and pieces of stone in there that is not allowing the Allen to go all the way into its hole. If so try to clean the whole.
If all fails one idea comes to my mind is to find a just a bit oversized torx bit. Jam it in the hex hole by tapping it in with a hammer then try to loosen. This assumes you have enough room to do that.
Others may chime in if that is a bad idea or not or other suggestions.
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      06-29-2017, 06:55 AM   #8
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Or maybe on yours it is a different size fill plug head. Check if it's or even if it is torx or not. Try to use exact size and type.
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      06-30-2017, 09:59 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PhaseP View Post
Or maybe on yours it is a different size fill plug head. Check if it's or even if it is torx or not. Try to use exact size and type.
Found out the 1/2 is slightly smaller than the 14mm. So I bought a 14mm and it fits right into the drain/fill plug.

I filled the oil and closed the fill plug. Having a hard time putting the long bolt in
Cant even drop the exhaust because the bolts and nuts on the (mid pipe-Header) is so rusted up... any suggestion?
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      07-01-2017, 11:35 AM   #10
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Quote:
I bought a 14mm today, since the transfer case fluid needs ...
Quote:
I put a 14mm Allen into the fill plug, it was pretty lose, I could twist the 14mm Allen around as there's gap's on the fill plug ...
and then:
Quote:
Found out the 1/2 is slightly smaller than the 14mm. So I bought a 14mm and it fits right into the drain/fill plug.


1/2 inch is smaller than 14 mm, don't you say, no kidding?

I will give you the benefit of doubt for one time that you are not trolling and reply hoping your situation is real.
Quote:
Having a hard time putting the long bolt in
Cant even drop the exhaust because the bolts and nuts on the (mid pipe-Header) is so rusted up... any suggestion?
If you have gotten the bolt out, it means it can go back in. You just need to get the parts the same position it came out.
If your exhaust connections are very rusted, I wouldn't touch them. I actually try even not to look at mine being afraid they will start crumbling and fall off.

The only thing I can suggest, other than trying to lift and maneuveour the t-case and rest to get it to correct position to get the bolt in, is if you haven't done so, there is a tie bracket from the exhaust to the transfer case attached with two small bolts with plastic/rubber washers, from what I remember. Undo that it will give more room to push the exhaust out. But before undoing it take a picture and make a good mental note of how the bolts and the washers etc are placed so that you can put it back together as it is supposed to be. And use the right size and type of bit on there too!
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