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LCI adaptive headlight adjusment bracket fix (Inside the headlight)
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12-29-2017, 09:49 PM | #1 |
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LCI adaptive headlight adjusment bracket fix (Inside the headlight)
Hey guys & gals,
*** This is an example of how I fixed my adjustment bracket that allows you to control how high or low you want your headlight to aim, If you attempt the same procedure as me I am not responsible for any damages you may cause while doing the work*** As most of us know, the replacement of an adaptive headlight comes at a pretty hefty price, pretty much 1100$ up here in Canada. A few months ago I had decided to adjust the level of my headlights. Of course when I came to adjust the passenger side it wasn't working. I looked up on how to fix this issue and I only came across a post that explained how the headlight-vertical-aim-control maybe have popped out of it's socket... https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...l/63117207574/ I verified this issue and mine was actually out of it's socket so I placed it back into the bracket and attempted to adjust the angle of my headlight once more, again I was left with no motion of the projector moving up or down. I went on to open my headlight since I didn't want to spend over 1000$ on a new headlight. I got her open and I notcied that the arm that holds the bracket to move the projector up and down was snapped. This piece is made out of white plastic and is in a shape of an "X" and it sits on the rod that screws the bracket back and forth. At first I tried to do a cold weld on the plastic pieces with a plastic adhesive and it seemd to hold. A couple of weeks go by and the cold weld snapped which led to the headlight facing down. Tonight I opened my headlight up again and really wanted to fix this issue, this part is not listed on realoem and I cannot locate it anywhere online. What I ended up doing was drilling a very small hole in each of the plastic pieces (the size of a sewing needle), I heated up one side of the needle with a lighter until it turned red and I inserted it into the pilot hole in the plastic, the heat melted the plastic as I was inserting in and then it held on it's own once cooled off, I then cut the needle a little shorter and heated the other side and inserted the other end into the other pilot hole in the other plastic piece. This fused my pieces together and I then added some more plastic adhesive all the way around for extra support. It seems to be holding up well so hopefully this holds together for quite some time! I'll be back for updates in the future to see how it's doing. Here are some pics of what I did with this bracket. I hope that this can help people fix their headlights.
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01-12-2018, 09:03 AM | #2 |
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It's been two weeks since I've done this repair and it's still holding up! We've also had temperatures ranging from -40 degrees Celsius up to +10 degrees Celsius here in Ontario in the past two weeks, I've hit some pretty bad pot holes as well and it's still holding up.
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01-13-2018, 10:10 AM | #3 |
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Nice job with the repair. I’ve got a similar problem on my pre-lci xenon headlight, but I’ve been hesitant to remove the headlight lens and open it up to fix it properly. My light will move left/right but the up/down movement is limited due to the existing repair
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01-14-2018, 10:45 AM | #4 |
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Thanks man, I’m happy it worked out because i really did not want to spend that much on a headlight. Removing the lens is the worse part about it all, I resealed it with silicone and I haven’t had any issues with moisture or anything.
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01-14-2018, 10:47 AM | #5 |
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What method did you use to open it? Hot air or baking it -or something else?
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01-14-2018, 02:33 PM | #6 |
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I don't own a heat gun and I didn't want to bake it, I was going to use a hair dryer but didn't want to burn it out so I just went at it with an olfa knife and flat head screwdrivers. I know it's not the best way but I got it open.. I ended up breaking some of the housing a little where the lip goes over the lens but I sealed it all the way around with silicone to make sure nothing gets in there and it has worked so far.
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You're not really driving if you don't have 3 pedals. Last edited by OTO335i; 01-15-2018 at 01:20 PM.. |
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02-17-2018, 04:38 PM | #7 |
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Well I'm afraid I have some bad news... My light was back to aiming down last night and when I went to adjust it, it wasn't working so the tab must of broken again.. Uugghhh it's frustrating because I can't locate this part anywhere online so I'll have to reopen the light and fix it somehow..
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02-18-2018, 09:15 AM | #8 |
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I'll probably do the same type of repair that I originally did but I'll use a screw this time so that the plastic melts around the the grooves and grips it.
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02-18-2018, 10:53 AM | #9 | |
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When you have the part out and repaired, scan it so that someone can 3-d print it. Not sure what kind of plastic to use but that would defintaley be a way to reproduce this weak part |
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02-18-2018, 11:41 AM | #10 | ||
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02-18-2018, 12:46 PM | #11 |
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I’d be wary of 3D printing this part, mostly with the stresses applied and difficulty to access/replace. Not saying it can’t be done - If I were doing it, I’d print it in nylon or something reinforced and be careful about the orientation of the part.
You might try using a flat or corrugated metal piece with some roughness for the plastic to grip to. I’m guessing it broke at the repair and the pin pulled out |
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02-18-2018, 12:53 PM | #12 |
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To 3D print a part, you either need the original CAD model or to reverse engineer the part. This can be done manually or by using a 3D scanner. I’m a mechanical engineering professional, I do 3D printing and CAD modeling regularly.
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02-18-2018, 02:17 PM | #13 | |
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My own headlights seem to have this issue, ive researched this topic and looks absolutely difficult just to get the damn headlights open. So my suggestion was just that, a suggestion. I would either buy new headlights, that would only buy more time before the original part breaks again or pay to have this issue repaired. |
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02-18-2018, 03:18 PM | #14 |
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Perhaps something like this: hot staple tool
Using a "hot staple" to bridge the fracture, but attach to either side securely. Might be able to do this as simple as a paper clip in each direction? I don't think your idea was fundamentally wrong for the repair. Another thing is to reinforce with a strong, slow setting epoxy or something like JB weld. You might need to file afterward if it adds too much bulk |
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02-18-2018, 08:33 PM | #15 | ||
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02-19-2018, 07:38 PM | #16 |
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2009 335i xDrive 6MT // Black Sapphire / Cold Weather / M Sport / PDC / Premium Package / Aerodynamic Kit / Anthracite headliner / Keyless Entry / AR Design Catless Downpipe / Style 313 19" Wheels/ OEM Euro Taillights / LUX H8 160
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02-22-2018, 09:39 AM | #17 |
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I just opened my headlight the other day and I notice my projector actually popped off the adjuster. I just popped it back in and it seem to fix the issue. I guess I got luck.
Contact the guys at Lightwerks .. Maybe they have a solution to your problem. Great customer service too. https://www.lightwerkz.net/
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02-22-2018, 09:55 AM | #18 | |
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02-22-2018, 10:11 AM | #19 | |
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Fixed the drooping headlight projector .. I was very lucky the adjuster was not broken .. It looked like the project popped off the adjuster. I just popped it in. I guess I was very lucky I didn't have to replace the adjuster. But I did notice the projector cover inside one of the clip was broken. Anyone have any idea where I can source a cover? Here is an excellent video how to remove your headlights including the tools you need for those who are reading this thread! It's not an E90 but it has the same damn glue! by the way what did you use to remove the glue around the lens?
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02-22-2018, 11:00 AM | #20 | |
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To be honest, I didn't open my headlight in the best way, I didn't want to bake it since I've never done that and I don't own a heat gun, so I went around with flat head screw drivers and moved them back and forth to disrupt the glue as much as possible, I ended up breaking some of the lip that overhangs the lens but I got it open and I resealed it with silicone. I decided to go with silicone because it's durable and I knew that one day I would probably have to open it again and I knew that cutting into the silicone would make this an easier process for the following times that I need to access the interior of the headlight. I would put the silicone and spread it with my fingers to get full coverage and the best flat surface as possible so it didn't look completely like a mess. You can't see it with the hood closed and you'd really have to look at the headlight to be able to tell that I had opened it. I've pretty much had the silicone on all winter (we've had an extremely messed up winter up here with a big range of different temperatures) and my headlight never had any signs of condensation and water never entered the headlight. I'll try to get a pic of what it looks like tonight. (I'm aware that I may get flamed but it works for me lol) Sorry for the long details but I feel like it's best that I describe exactly what I did and my end results (so far). Hopefully I can tackle this again this weekend and haven't fixed fully!
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02-22-2018, 11:17 AM | #21 | |
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Definitely contact Lightwerks and see if they have any solution to your problem. Have you tried using epoxy? Good luck and keep us updated!
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02-22-2018, 12:01 PM | #22 | |
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