N54 Swap -> A total mess

hcopeland · 07-14-2018, 12:38 PM

So after a long venture I have finally got all the parts and the engine into the car, and it is still acting up. Ive been searching everywhere for solutions but I cant seem to find any thread or person who knows what is going on. So lets start at the beginning.

Back in January I posted a thread after I blew up my last motor. Based on circumstantial evidence I think the culprit was overboost and a failing injector.
And so I found a new engine out of a recked 08 335i. I also figured since I was tearing the whole thing apart I should do turbos and inlets. so the car right now has vrsf downpipes, vrsf relocated inlets, MHD stage 2 plus, and RB classics.

So the car is back together and the only things not on are the front bumper face, the headlights and the exhaust. This was the best time to make sure it ran before I put the rest together so I gave it a try. The battery was dead and wouldn't take a charge and my key fob got stuck in the ignition

... Swapped out batteries and slowly the car started to come back to life. I got the the point where it was firing but it won't start. I went on vacation for a week and came back to the battery dead again. Somehow spamming the ignition and brake make the car drop the key again... only for me to put it back in once charged and get it stuck again.

So here's where I need some community insight. I'm sure someone looking at this is either a code wizard or has been through the same thing. With out further ab due here is the mess that it currently is.

CAS
31, 03, A1,0A No found!
A0B2 supply, Terminal 30E/30L
A119 power supply, el.steering lock

DME
2AB4 DME, internal fault: RAM checksum
2DEC power management, battery
2ABC boost pressure sensor
3100 boost pressure control, deactivation
29F3 Fuel low pressure sensor electric
2FBC Fuel supply control valve, Signal
2F9A outside temperature sensor, communication
2E3X Fuel injector activation for 1,2,3,4,6
2E83 electric coolant pump power reduced operation
2E8E intellegent battery sensor communication

Note I haven't coded injectors or battery yet but from what I have read this should not be a problem.

mxchris727 · 07-14-2018, 10:37 PM

Get a fully charged battery in the car and clear the codes. Then try to start it and see what happens. Check that all of the ground points in the engine bay are tight.

Emilime75 · 07-15-2018, 12:09 PM

I'll second the clearing of codes suggestion. Very different example, and maybe irrelevant, but here's a scenario that happened to me.

Charge pipe blew up on interstate. Engine RPM start bucking between 500-1500, car is shaking violently, I thought a part of the drive train broke. Throw it in neutral, coast to shoulder, realize it's not the drive train but something with the engine. Inspect, see blown off charge pipe. Stick it back on and it seems to clip in still, even though part of the flange around the clip is cracked and MIA. Start car, all sorts of codes and CEL, rpm still bucking violently. Try turning off and restarting car a few times, no go. Luckily, I had my ELM/BT code reader thingie with me, and used it to clear all of the codes right there on the shoulder. Start engine back up, all good. RPM normal, no more codes or CEL. Was able to drive it the remaining 5 miles to the house.

hcopeland · 07-15-2018, 03:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mxchris727

Get a fully charged battery in the car and clear the codes. Then try to start it and see what happens. Check that all of the ground points in the engine bay are tight.

Thank you for the reply! I have been stumped by this and I though I had already tried but I said what'll it hurt to do it again.

So yesterday I yanked out the ECU and tested the injector mosfets and all were okay. this morning I threw it back in, hooked up the negative terminal. Sat down and it fired right up.

going back out now to recheck all the grounds and check codes. if all looks good then im going to throw the exhaust back on and the front end

cheers!

JuniorB · 07-16-2018, 06:07 PM

You should always start up a new motor with an ecu with a fully charger battery. A car should crank and start within seconds. You have a battery issue, double check all the connections, and grounds. Besides the low power, there s no reason it should start..you have fuel in the tank, lol. What's the history of the new engine?

07-14-2018, 12:38 PM	#1
hcopeland Private 14 Rep 79 Posts Drives: Graphite E92 335i Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: Leona Valley, CA iTrader: (0) Garage List 2007 BMW e92 335i [0.00]	N54 Swap -> A total mess So after a long venture I have finally got all the parts and the engine into the car, and it is still acting up. Ive been searching everywhere for solutions but I cant seem to find any thread or person who knows what is going on. So lets start at the beginning. Back in January I posted a thread after I blew up my last motor. Based on circumstantial evidence I think the culprit was overboost and a failing injector. And so I found a new engine out of a recked 08 335i. I also figured since I was tearing the whole thing apart I should do turbos and inlets. so the car right now has vrsf downpipes, vrsf relocated inlets, MHD stage 2 plus, and RB classics. So the car is back together and the only things not on are the front bumper face, the headlights and the exhaust. This was the best time to make sure it ran before I put the rest together so I gave it a try. The battery was dead and wouldn't take a charge and my key fob got stuck in the ignition ... Swapped out batteries and slowly the car started to come back to life. I got the the point where it was firing but it won't start. I went on vacation for a week and came back to the battery dead again. Somehow spamming the ignition and brake make the car drop the key again... only for me to put it back in once charged and get it stuck again. So here's where I need some community insight. I'm sure someone looking at this is either a code wizard or has been through the same thing. With out further ab due here is the mess that it currently is. CAS 31, 03, A1,0A No found! A0B2 supply, Terminal 30E/30L A119 power supply, el.steering lock DME 2AB4 DME, internal fault: RAM checksum 2DEC power management, battery 2ABC boost pressure sensor 3100 boost pressure control, deactivation 29F3 Fuel low pressure sensor electric 2FBC Fuel supply control valve, Signal 2F9A outside temperature sensor, communication 2E3X Fuel injector activation for 1,2,3,4,6 2E83 electric coolant pump power reduced operation 2E8E intellegent battery sensor communication Note I haven't coded injectors or battery yet but from what I have read this should not be a problem. __________________ '07 335i e92 -- RB Turbos - JB4 G5 - MHD Tune - VRSF Catless DP - VRSF Relocated Inlets - Devilsown/BMS Methanol Injection
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07-14-2018, 10:37 PM	#2
mxchris727 Captain 193 Rep 666 Posts Drives: '03 M5, '06 325i, '12 M3 Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Westport, CT iTrader: (0)	Get a fully charged battery in the car and clear the codes. Then try to start it and see what happens. Check that all of the ground points in the engine bay are tight. __________________ BMW GT1 (INPA, DIS, WinKFP, ect..), ISTA/P & /D is up and running! PM me if you want to stop by and code your car.
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07-15-2018, 12:09 PM	#3
Emilime75 Colonel 1209 Rep 2,476 Posts Drives: 2010 335i E92 LeMans Blue Join Date: Dec 2017 Location: Merica! iTrader: (1)	I'll second the clearing of codes suggestion. Very different example, and maybe irrelevant, but here's a scenario that happened to me. Charge pipe blew up on interstate. Engine RPM start bucking between 500-1500, car is shaking violently, I thought a part of the drive train broke. Throw it in neutral, coast to shoulder, realize it's not the drive train but something with the engine. Inspect, see blown off charge pipe. Stick it back on and it seems to clip in still, even though part of the flange around the clip is cracked and MIA. Start car, all sorts of codes and CEL, rpm still bucking violently. Try turning off and restarting car a few times, no go. Luckily, I had my ELM/BT code reader thingie with me, and used it to clear all of the codes right there on the shoulder. Start engine back up, all good. RPM normal, no more codes or CEL. Was able to drive it the remaining 5 miles to the house.
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07-16-2018, 06:07 PM	#5
JuniorB Major 183 Rep 1,017 Posts Drives: 07 e60 525 N54 Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Rhode Island iTrader: (0)	You should always start up a new motor with an ecu with a fully charger battery. A car should crank and start within seconds. You have a battery issue, double check all the connections, and grounds. Besides the low power, there s no reason it should start..you have fuel in the tank, lol. What's the history of the new engine?
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