[oilcrankinject]

I tried to fix everything today. I had not used my ratcheting crimper since 2013 (when I build this comp) so I failed to see that the dies were not the right size for the wiring.

The small wire is 18 gauge. The bigger wires are either 10 or 12.

I had to order a new crimper and new parts because I cannot figure out how to get the crimps out of the connector.

[AndreyT]

Just did this myself in my 2011 E90 335i. Indeed there's absolutely no need to remove the air ducts and there's absolutely no need to remove the glove box. It is like replacing a light bulb.

After removing the plastic panel with the light, all you need to do is get in there, unclip the motor power, unlatch the latch (located between 12 and 1 o'clock position in my case), twist it clockwise and carefully remove. The latch in question can be seen in the attached picture on the right.

I also notice that some guides on the need talk about unlatching some plastic latch located deeper in the innards of the dash. But if you look at the removed motor assembly, you'll immediately see that there's no possibility of any deeper latch. Everything is right there in plain sight right behind the plastic panel.

Also, the motor housing has another protrusion - the screw hole (see the attached picture, on the left). The car (the snail-shaped blower housing?) does have a matching mounting post with a hole, obviously intended to accept a screw. However, my car apparently came from the factory without that screw. I wonder if anyone ever saw it screwed down using this hole.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by AndreyT

Just did this myself in my 2011 E90 335i. Indeed there's absolutely no need to remove the air ducts and there's absolutely no need to remove the glove box. It is like replacing a light bulb.

After removing the plastic panel with the light, all you need to do is get in there, unclip the motor power, unlatch the latch (located between 12 and 1 o'clock position in my case), twist it clockwise and carefully remove. The latch in question can be seen in the attached picture on the right.

I also notice that some guides on the need talk about unlatching some plastic latch located deeper in the innards of the dash. But if you look at the removed motor assembly, you'll immediately see that there's no possibility of any deeper latch. Everything is right there in plain sight right behind the plastic panel.

Also, the motor housing has another protrusion - the screw hole (see the attached picture, on the left). The car (the snail-shaped blower housing?) does have a matching mounting post with a hole, obviously intended to accept a screw. However, my car apparently came from the factory without that screw. I wonder if anyone ever saw it screwed down using this hole.

Eninty mentioned the screw hole and used it apparently.

[Knightevo]

I have the same tweetie bird on my 2005 325i. just downloaded the file and i will have a go when i get the chance.

[mantis]

just had my ac suddenly stop yesterday. i have been experiencing issues for about 9 months now with the ac. everything from varying speeds, to max ac also fluctuating.

Warning to all that are having these ac issues, the above burnt clips are i believe due to owners leaving the fan ON.

I have turned everything off and will keep it off till i pull it apart to inspect and repair, but i have smelled burnt ele in the past in the car so again waiting till i pull it apart

[spyre]

Instructions were helpful, thanks. Somehow my blower motor had sucked in a napkin that made it sound crazy only on the higher levels. It had to have come from the glovebox somehow, not sure how that would have worked but it did.
Guess I have to figure out how to ship back the new fan motor I bought.

[MG McAnick]

I realize that this thread is practically an antique by internet standards, but I wanted to respond to say thanks to Eninty. I found it on with the search function. I have not yet invested in a Bentley manual for this car. I may, if I keep it very long.

I would also like to ad that I got my blower out using the easy to follow (once I read them twice) directions. I went one step further and disconnected the resistor from the fan and fed 12 volts directly to the fan. It worked fine. I also used a volt meter to see if I had power feeding the wire to the resistor once it was unplugged. That told me that it is indeed the blower motor resistor causing the 'no blow' problem.

I can buy the resistor from Autozone, wholesale, for $71.63. That's even cheaper than Rock Auto. Your results may vary.

[dbjb]

Thanks for the DIY! For those wanting pictures, take a look at Pelican's tutorial. (Link at bottom).
Before you go buy a new $80 resistor, take a look at my images. I had damage from a short. The wires just above the connection into the resistor had damage. The insulation had melted off about an inch and had corrosion. My quick fix, cleaned off the corrosion and fed electrical tape between the wiring; encapsulating the damaged wire. Wrapped once more and reconnected everything. Voila!

Entire thing took maybe 15 minutes following the guide applying my fix. Hope it's that simple for you! Good luck!







http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tech..._Replacing.htm

[FrankoQ]

Thanks for the instructions.
pretty easy procedure and now I have AC after 4 days of pure heat.

[sponfit]

Just swapped my fan out. This guide made it super easy. Thanks.

[Flare]

Originally Posted by dbjb

Thanks for the DIY! For those wanting pictures, take a look at Pelican's tutorial. (Link at bottom).
Before you go buy a new $80 resistor, take a look at my images. I had damage from a short. The wires just above the connection into the resistor had damage. The insulation had melted off about an inch and had corrosion. My quick fix, cleaned off the corrosion and fed electrical tape between the wiring; encapsulating the damaged wire. Wrapped once more and reconnected everything. Voila!

Entire thing took maybe 15 minutes following the guide applying my fix. Hope it's that simple for you! Good luck!

This thread rocks. I had the same problem and was able to just clean and re-tape the wires and it works again. Good as new. Thanks all!

[chad.trent]

Apologies for bumping an old thread, but I have a question...

About a month ago I swapped out my fan with a new one (after checking all the fuses). I had a problem where mine would work fine and then stop all of a sudden. Then work fine for a few more days or a week and then stop again.

Today it stopped again. Occasionally it will start blowing for a split second then stop again. I tested all the connections with a voltmeter and didn't find any loose connections or anything. I figure it has to be the resistor as I didn't change that when I swapped the fan. So I have one on order. But is there anything else that could be causing it? I'm getting ready to go on a trip, and I don't want to go without A/C.

[WallyF]

My HVAC blower started squealing about three months ago. I read this DYI and decided to try spraying some silicone lubricant on the bearings through the cabin air filter port under the hood.
I used Prestone Silicone Lubricant using two soda straws stucked together. Worked like a champ. The top bearing shows rust as shown in the picture.
The bottom bearing was OK as far as I could tell but I sprayed some lub on it also.

Will see how long this lasts. This a lot cheaper and quicker than replacing the blower motor.


Wallyf

[Efthreeoh]

The rusted part you show in the pic is just the compression nut that holds the fan blade to the shaft. The bearing is under the fan blade hub. Hope it works for you for a while, but it will eventually fail. It's a stupid design by BMW.

[Aslang]

[WallyF]

Efthreeoh was correct about the top cap not being a bearing. However, I was able to get the upper bearing lubricated through the upper air input. I was not able to lub the lower bearing. So, I replaced the blower motor with a new Valeo/ACM equivalent. The job took about an hour as I had trouble aligning the new motor and existing housing when I tried installing it.

The old motor came out easily with some minor bending of the plastic ducting. The locking tab of course broke when I pulled it down as it was brittle. I was able to get the new motor up in the housing but had trouble getting the grabbing tabs on the motor to lay in the correct position. In the process, I broke off the locking tab on the new motor. I finally figured out that the alignment tab (see photo) needs to facing toward the passenger seat. Once in the correct position, the motor fell into the correct position to engage the grabbing tabs.

As a side, the lower bearing can be lubricated by gaining access under the dash. There is access cover cap that pops out easily to gain access to the bearing. I wish I new about his before I replaced the blower. I may have be able to salvage the old motor as it was working correctly; only squealing. See photo.

Suggestion: The best way to see what you are doing is to get yourself looking up at the underside of the dash.
SLIDE THE PASSENGER SEAT ALL THE WAY BACK;
COME IN FROM THE DRIVER DOOR;
LAY YOUR BUTT ON THE CONSOLE;
LAY YOUR SHOULDERS ON THE EDGE OF THE PASSENGER SEAT;
LAY HEAD ON THE FLOOR LOOKING UP AT THE BOTTOM OF THE DASH.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by WallyF

Efthreeoh was correct about the top cap not being a bearing.

Suggestion: The best way to see what you are doing is to get yourself looking up at the underside of the dash.
SLIDE THE PASSENGER SEAT ALL THE WAY BACK;
COME IN FROM THE DRIVER DOOR;
LAY YOUR BUTT ON THE CONSOLE;
LAY YOUR SHOULDERS ON THE EDGE OF THE PASSENGER SEAT;
LAY HEAD ON THE FLOOR LOOKING UP AT THE BOTTOM OF THE DASH.

When I did my second blower replacement, I just removed the passenger seat all together. It takes an extra 10 minutes, but makes it far easier to lay down in the passenger footwell. You don't have to remove the seat belt from the seat, just pull the seat through the door opening and place it next to the car. The seat belt has plenty of slack.

[Greyfox]

So, starting to get a very soft whine from the blower motor at low speed.

Is Valeo the OEM vendor for the blower motor unit?

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by Greyfox

So, starting to get a very soft whine from the blower motor at low speed.

Is Valeo the OEM vendor for the blower motor unit?

I bought the Valeo unit from Turner Motorsports which included a new resistor unit. It was $174 back a year ago. Valeo is the OEM according to Turner.

Take my advice, if you are going to DIY, take the extra 15 minutes and remove the passenger seat. It makes it a lot easier to install the blower motor. The seat easily unbolts and you can just place it outside the car with the seat belt still attached. You have to unplug two harnesses under the seat.

[PhaseP]

Originally Posted by Greyfox

So, starting to get a very soft whine from the blower motor at low speed.

Is Valeo the OEM vendor for the blower motor unit?

+1 to Eftreeoh's, my original one from factory was Valeo with the addition of a BMW on it.

[Greyfox]

Thanks ya'll. I'll start comparative price shopping for one.

[jmedarts]

Thank you ENINTY for the write-up. Probably could have managed it without pulling the glove box, but I'm a big guy and getting all the way under on my back seemed like way too much trouble. Maybe 10 mins extra work.