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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N55 Turbo Engine Tuning and Exhaust Modifications - 335i Tuning > Oil filter housing gasket



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      02-20-2019, 09:51 AM   #1
alddiem415
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Oil filter housing gasket

I need to do my oil filter housing gasket on my 2011 335i xdrive.

Should i buy genuine bmw gaskets or oem gaskets are fine?

Fcpeuro is selling a whole kit but the gaskets are not genuine bmw. Its Elring gaskets

I appreciate your suggestions

Thanks
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      02-20-2019, 10:16 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alddiem415 View Post
I need to do my oil filter housing gasket on my 2011 335i xdrive.

Should i buy genuine bmw gaskets or oem gaskets are fine?

Fcpeuro is selling a whole kit but the gaskets are not genuine bmw. Its Elring gaskets

I appreciate your suggestions

Thanks
I'd stick with BMW genuine. I haven't had any luck with aftermarket gaskets lasting long. Then again the BMW gaskets don't seem to last either...
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      02-20-2019, 10:21 AM   #3
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Don't forget to prime your oil system after the job done
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      02-20-2019, 10:22 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbnks2 View Post
I'd stick with BMW genuine. I haven't had any luck with aftermarket gaskets lasting long. Then again the BMW gaskets don't seem to last either...

Im thinking of doing it myself.

Have you done it? If yes, how was it? Is it hard?

I got a quote of $670.. a reputable shop in Philly
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      02-20-2019, 10:28 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alddiem415 View Post
I need to do my oil filter housing gasket on my 2011 335i xdrive.

Should i buy genuine bmw gaskets or oem gaskets are fine?

Fcpeuro is selling a whole kit but the gaskets are not genuine bmw. Its Elring gaskets

I appreciate your suggestions

Thanks
As long as you pay almost the same price as the genuine BMW I think you will be fine. The gasket from BMW itself isn't that amazing at all. I got one from Uro parts, but I would still suggest you go with BMW since there isn't really a real proof that any of the aftermarkets are better than the genuine.
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      02-20-2019, 10:34 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alddiem415 View Post
Im thinking of doing it myself.

Have you done it? If yes, how was it? Is it hard?

I got a quote of $670.. a reputable shop in Philly
I have done it and it is not hard. It is not hard if you are ready to accept that you shouldn't be cutting corners.

Some of the bolt for the OFHG are hard to acces and you need to remove/loosen part like the intake manifold in order to get to.

Take your time, be patient and use a long magnet to grab on the bolts so you don't drop any of these while removing them.

What I also did was, before even touching the OFHG, I removed the coolant hose and put a towel as well as a recipient under the connection. That way I got rid of some of the coolant stored in the OFHG and this allowed me to remove it with way less fluid splashing which reduces the risk of cross contamination as well.
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      02-20-2019, 10:39 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alddiem415 View Post
Im thinking of doing it myself.

Have you done it? If yes, how was it? Is it hard?

I got a quote of $670.. a reputable shop in Philly
It's not hard at all. Just a bit messy so have an old towel to cover everything with. Pretty sure there are countless diy's out there. And yeah "prime your oil system" because there have been a ton of people posting about N55s seizing after a few miles of having this service done for whatever reason lol...
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      02-20-2019, 10:43 AM   #8
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Yes after the installation of your new gasket, you should prime the system and you should also monitor the oil pressure just to be sure nothing went wrong! Other than that everything is simple!
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      02-20-2019, 10:43 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by proj335i View Post
Don't forget to prime your oil system after the job done
Im sorry but

What do you mean by prime the oil system?
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      02-20-2019, 10:48 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alddiem415 View Post
Im sorry but

What do you mean by prime the oil system?
Disable ignition and fuel and crank the engine.
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      02-20-2019, 11:54 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alddiem415 View Post
I need to do my oil filter housing gasket on my 2011 335i xdrive.

Should i buy genuine bmw gaskets or oem gaskets are fine?

Fcpeuro is selling a whole kit but the gaskets are not genuine bmw. Its Elring gaskets

I appreciate your suggestions

Thanks
I have also had better luck with BMW gaskets but what is more important than this is to torque properly. Gaskets lasts substantially less when not torqued well. Under or over. Esp this type of gasket and pressure..
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      02-20-2019, 11:56 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alddiem415 View Post
Im sorry but

What do you mean by prime the oil system?
oh here we go another seized engine hahahha (*joking*)
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      02-20-2019, 12:02 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pladi View Post
oh here we go another seized engine hahahha (*joking*)
We really shoudln't be joking about this Hahahah
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      02-20-2019, 12:07 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheGoodTheBadTheUgly View Post
We really shoudln't be joking about this Hahahah
Dude i had the same thought before writing. Like is this too much black humour
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      02-20-2019, 12:09 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by feuer View Post
Disable ignition and fuel and crank the engine.
Hahaha I don't think that's going to help him that much Feuer. Not everyone here was born inside the N55

Now please correct me if I am wrong, but I will elaborate on what I think Feuer meant.

He means you should locate your 6 fuel injectors, disconnect the electrical wires (for each one) that are connected to the injectors.

After wards you need to crank the car, but I am not sure how many times and for how long.

A general procedure was: Crank the engine for 10 seconds. After 10 seconds stop the starter and let the starter cool for 20 seconds. Repeat this procedure twice again.

After that, you plug back the injectors electrical connectors and you reinstall the metal fuel lines and you should be good to go.

Did I miss anything here?

I also managed to find you a video of an N54 injector being changed. Yes your procedure will be a bit different since it's N55, but it's a good visual support to understand.

You only need to do what he does from the begining of the video till the 3:20 mark.

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Last edited by TheGoodTheBadTheUgly; 02-20-2019 at 02:32 PM..
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      02-20-2019, 02:10 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheGoodTheBadTheUgly View Post
Hahaha I don't think that's going to help him that much Feuer. Not everyone here was born inside the N55

Now please correct me if I am wrong, but I will elaborate on what I think Feuer meant.

He means you should locate your 6 fuel injectors, disconnect the electrical wires (for each one) that are connected to the injectors. Additionally you can also remove the metal fuel line (on top of the injectors) that's feeding the injectors.

After wards you need to crank the car, but I am not sure how many times and for how long.

A general procedure was: Crank the engine for 10 seconds. After 10 seconds stop the starter and let the starter cool for 20 seconds. Repeat this procedure twice again.

After that, you plug back the injectors electrical connectors and you reinstall the metal fuel lines and you should be good to go.

Did I miss anything here?

I also managed to find you a video of an N54 injector being changed. Yes your procedure will be a bit different since it's N55, but it's a good visual support to understand.

You only need to do what he does from the begining of the video till the 4:10 mark and you don't need to remove that metal plate that's holding the injector!

No, none of that is necessary. The 2 best ways are to

A) Pull the fuel pump fuse prior to starting the work and run the car until it stalls out. Then you can crank all you want to when you're finished and no fuel will be injector.

B) Unplug the first harness from the DME. The one with the sliding lock mechanism. That unplugs the ignition harness. No fuel and no spark. No need to unplug all the individual connectors.

Definitely don't disconnect any fuel rails.
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      02-20-2019, 02:31 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbnks2 View Post
No, none of that is necessary. The 2 best ways are to

A) Pull the fuel pump fuse prior to starting the work and run the car until it stalls out. Then you can crank all you want to when you're finished and no fuel will be injector.

B) Unplug the first harness from the DME. The one with the sliding lock mechanism. That unplugs the ignition harness. No fuel and no spark. No need to unplug all the individual connectors.

Definitely don't disconnect any fuel rails.
Ok so you would do Step A prior to starting your OFHG change. This way you starved the fuel in the car system and there will be no fuel mixture to be ignited when it comes to cranking the car.

And B seems pretty damn simple.

I guess my method would of worked (and yeah without touching the fuel rails), but is just more complicated and long!

Thanks!
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      02-21-2019, 08:15 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbnks2 View Post
No, none of that is necessary. The 2 best ways are to

A) Pull the fuel pump fuse prior to starting the work and run the car until it stalls out. Then you can crank all you want to when you're finished and no fuel will be injector.

B) Unplug the first harness from the DME. The one with the sliding lock mechanism. That unplugs the ignition harness. No fuel and no spark. No need to unplug all the individual connectors.

Definitely don't disconnect any fuel rails.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheGoodTheBadTheUgly View Post
Ok so you would do Step A prior to starting your OFHG change. This way you starved the fuel in the car system and there will be no fuel mixture to be ignited when it comes to cranking the car.

And B seems pretty damn simple.

I guess my method would of worked (and yeah without touching the fuel rails), but is just more complicated and long!

Thanks!

Dumb question but running the HPFP dry isn't going to cause issues with it? I saw some thread where some people were weary about doing it because of that. Like by disconnecting the injector you still have fuel in it lubing stuff compared to it being dry? Saw people discussing this but yeah if no problem that is definitely simpelr.

Just wondering why official SIB wouldn't say to do something like this instead tho?
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      02-22-2019, 07:26 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal View Post
Dumb question but running the HPFP dry isn't going to cause issues with it? I saw some thread where some people were weary about doing it because of that. Like by disconnecting the injector you still have fuel in it lubing stuff compared to it being dry? Saw people discussing this but yeah if no problem that is definitely simpelr.

Just wondering why official SIB wouldn't say to do something like this instead tho?
What "official SIB" are you referring to? The SIB posted here pertaining to oil and fuel repairs specifically states that it is for instances where rail pressure HAS NOT been bled first.

Quote:
This procedure is used when the high pressure fuel system pressure is not depleted
Brand new HPFP and Injectors come dry. What is lubing them? No, I can't see how you'd do any harm...

Do as you please but A) below is useful for a variety of reasons involving fuel repairs to bleed off pressure without dumping fuel all over your engine bay. B) is what I would do if all I was doing was trying to prime the oil pump. It's a lot of work to disconnect all the injectors and spark plugs. It takes 0 effort to reach down and disconnect the entire ignition harness from the DME.
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      02-22-2019, 07:58 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbnks2 View Post
What "official SIB" are you referring to? The SIB posted here pertaining to oil and fuel repairs specifically states that it is for instances where rail pressure HAS NOT been bled first.



Brand new HPFP and Injectors come dry. What is lubing them? No, I can't see how you'd do any harm...

Do as you please but A) below is useful for a variety of reasons involving fuel repairs to bleed off pressure without dumping fuel all over your engine bay. B) is what I would do if all I was doing was trying to prime the oil pump. It's a lot of work to disconnect all the injectors and spark plugs. It takes 0 effort to reach down and disconnect the entire ignition harness from the DME.
I was talking about the SIB someone threw in the thread to disconnect injectors and then start car.

I agree HPFP comes dry but you won't crank it dry as much but yeah I mean it will probably be fine.
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      02-22-2019, 08:30 AM   #21
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to answer the original question - i believe elring is the OE manufacturer of the gaskets. also, there is a coolant hose you have to remove from the block to get to one of the bolts, I would assume it will crumble and need replaced. you can do the whole hose for $$$ or just get the billet aluminum cap from FCP. I would get it proactively so your car isn't down for 3 days while it ships - learn from my pain!
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      02-22-2019, 08:52 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by philgli View Post
to answer the original question - i believe elring is the OE manufacturer of the gaskets. also, there is a coolant hose you have to remove from the block to get to one of the bolts, I would assume it will crumble and need replaced. you can do the whole hose for $$$ or just get the billet aluminum cap from FCP. I would get it proactively so your car isn't down for 3 days while it ships - learn from my pain!
You don't have to remove that hose if you have a E10 box wrench. Or if your bolt is not super tight on you can give it a go with a 8MM box wrench but don't continue hard or it might strip.
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