[Cstorer79]

Originally Posted by canam_banana

That looks like right part you need to turn the engine manually to get each port to DTC. But, if the alignment of the holes to the crank shaft bolts are not correct, that would not fit. Maybe ask for measurements to verify? If you can't find one to buy, check on the forum to see if someone local to you is willing to rent you the part. (I rented all the parts needed - wands, blaster, tool for turning engine, and even the WiFi scope/ camera from a nearby diesel BMW member).

Make sure you verify that the port is closed by turning the engine manually. Do not blow walnut media inside the cylinder. IMO, the tangential port (rectangle shaped one on the side) is easier for using the scope to verify while manually cranking the engine.

I don't recommend removing the valve cover unless you have to. You need a special tool for removing the injectors in order to remove the valve cover. (check out the YouTube videos of 335d injector removal)

Cool, I'll check and see if they're available locally.

I was hoping not to remove the valve cover, so that confirms it for me. Thanks for the advice.

[Cdrseabee]

I have been doing this CBU head cleaning with the wands from Bavauto. The straight one for the swirl ports is ridiculous and needs bending.

So after the first cylinder was done with many struggles, I decided to make my own cleaning wands by going to the home improvement box store and getting a 10 foot roll of 1/4" copper refrigerant tubing for $10.

I have flaring tool. Got a fitting to attach to compressor hose. Cut a piece about a foot long and instant cleaning wand that is WAY easier to bend.

You can make up to ten different types with one roll of copper tubing!

Gonna try grinding a hole in the side of the tubing and closing off the end to twist and retract to clean the port walls.

[335DrD]

Greetings - I am in Raleigh NC and in the midst of carbon buildup cleaning [2010 335D]. Does anyone here have the walnut blasting kit for me to rent? I already have the intake manifold out. I am also open to alternatives for cleaning the buildup. Many thanks and much appreciated.

[Darkswarmer]

Folks,


Reporting back after two weeks of driving after my first CBU cleaning experience. I was able to stick a fuel line hose down the glow plug holes and force 100psi down there will simultaneously sucking with a shop vac + bmw intake port vacuum adapter while the intake valves were open.

Let's just say... More crap came out of there than I thought would. VERY glad I did that


After clearing codes and driving around a bit, the car is back to its old powerful self, but is still throwing an SES light. Two codes:

P0401 Insufficient Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow
P0101 Mass Air Flow Sensor Circuit Range/Performance

I just installed a brand new MAF sensor and Air temp sensor both, cleared codes and still get these two SES codes back almost immediately after starting the car.

Searching online it seems unclear what the next thing to look into would be. The P0401 (EGR) code seems to always point to CBU, but seeing as I just cleaned my off, idk what else to check?

[jagster936]

Wow that's a very clever idea! I'm scared to get that deep just want to do the normal blasting.

Couple questions, the swirl ports, the round ones, appear like someone took some road tar and shoved it down them, unbelievable the car ran at all. So just the walnut procedure will clear this? It seems the shells would just get stuck in it and create a giant mess lol. Or I guess they would soak up the goo, then the new shells will blast the mess away?

Secondly, I plan to soak instake in some home depot lye based degreaser, and (edit: pressure wash) blast away. I guess this is OK.

I can't tell where the plastic is that I'm not supposed to blast but I'm gonna clean what I can get to at the top at first. I"m glad I tour it apart, 140k miles probably never been done. ABC delete already done

Thx!

[canam_banana]

The tar/ soot will be consumed by the dry walnut media. At 100psi of pressure going through a 5/16th metal blaster hose, it will remove it. (Note: It is so powerful that it puncture a hole in hard plastic - i.e. your valve cover. Blasting metal is the intended purpose.)

Keep in mind that you should only need to turn the handle of the blaster to spray walnut media inside the intake port for 5 seconds or so. That's plenty of time for the dry media to consume the tar/soot and your shop-vac to suck it back out. You blast the round port and the rectangle port with the 2 different shaped wands.

As for cleaning the intake manifold, yes, soak it in Purple Power or some similar degreaser solvent. If you can get a water pump inside the container to keep the degreaser mixture flowing through the plastic intake ports, it will clean better. Or, you can soak a day and then blast with a pressure washer. But, it can get messy - just make sure you know that you'll get black greasy soot all over. (AARodriguez has a pretty cool setup using a heavy duty tupperware bin with lid and sump pump to clean them. Check out his video on YouTube. He also has a service that will clean it for you.)

As for pumping 100psi into the glow plug ports, that may get some stuff out. But, as you saw, the black soot/ tar needs some help from the dry walnut media to be absorbed and blasted out and then sucked out. The codes you're getting are probably still related to the CBU.

Originally Posted by jagster936

Wow that's a very clever idea! I'm scared to get that deep just want to do the normal blasting.

Couple questions, the swirl ports, the round ones, appear like someone took some road tar and shoved it down them, unbelievable the car ran at all. So just the walnut procedure will clear this? It seems the shells would just get stuck in it and create a giant mess lol. Or I guess they would soak up the goo, then the new shells will blast the mess away?

Secondly, I plan to soak instake in some home depot lye based degreaser, and (edit: pressure wash) blast away. I guess this is OK.

I can't tell where the plastic is that I'm not supposed to blast but I'm gonna clean what I can get to at the top at first. I"m glad I tour it apart, 140k miles probably never been done. ABC delete already done

Thx!

[jagster936]

Oh yea? So how far can I place the wand into the intake track? Right now it's so dirty I cannot see where the plastic ends and the metal begins.

I have a pressure washer I plan to blast with. My question now I cannot get that damn pressure sensor out of it, do I just need to pull harder or do people leave it in? I removed the rest of the gaskets and flaps and motor.

I didn't want to wait on shipping service my time is very valuable; I took a week off work to do all this and other projects.

My other question is the intake valves, the left round port is so dirty I cannot see it. The right one I can see. If I place the right side valve in the closed position with boroscope and cranking it over, I can safely assume the left side valve is also closed? This is my biggest fear getting shells and debris down inside the cylinder. I don't plan on removing the valve cover as the bulletin dictates.

I am not getting any codes suprinsingly. Mostly highway miles, 140k. Amazing.

[jagster936]

Yea I have BAVAUTO setup. The wands aren't too impressive looking we will see how this all works. I may have to bend the straight one or the curved one. Looks like even the curved one needs more of a bend!

[jagster936]

Anyone who has used these blasters specifically the BAV one, how much do you open the sand metering valve?

[jagster936]

Another question, I am very uneasy on how you are supposed to NOT blast the plastic of the swirl or round port (hope I'm getting the correct name). The marking on the blaster wand is only an inch or so up, if you look it appears the plastic goes down like 1-2 inches into the valve cover around the curve. I can see where the metal begins I think. I'm unsure how to avoid blasting the plastic that seems would be very difficult, and the mark should definitely be more than a mere inch up the blaster wand. What am I missing here?

[Mik325tds]

Originally Posted by jagster936

Another question, I am very uneasy on how you are supposed to NOT blast the plastic of the swirl or round port (hope I'm getting the correct name). The marking on the blaster wand is only an inch or so up, if you look it appears the plastic goes down like 1-2 inches into the valve cover around the curve. I can see where the metal begins I think. I'm unsure how to avoid blasting the plastic that seems would be very difficult, and the mark should definitely be more than a mere inch up the blaster wand. What am I missing here?

I don't know about the wands from BAV auto, but on my original BMW wands, it was sufficient to use the markings on the wands. I put some black marker around them to see it better. It doesn't blast right through the plastic if you hit it a bit. So make sure you don't blast too long on the way out and then check.

[jagster936]

I did do a little, and it doesn't seem to hurt the plastic and some of the back scatter of the particles cleans it too! It works amazingly well but the slightly curved wand is useless on the left port to get to the bottom. I have to get a bender or go get the BMW ones. I may get the 68 and 70 wand, 69 seems useless and already have one like it. 69 is straight one. It otherwise all works pretty well. The further ports are going to be very hard to get to.

I also initially trying some course walnut media, and it clogged several times, very annoying. Maybe fine grade will work better through the valves.

[jagster936]

Update: car runs great. Idols more smooth and gobs of power. It always had power though, lol. Maybe more responsive I'm not sure haven't had it long.

It started almost instantly too, about twice as fast as before.

was all a huge PIA but worth it! Thx for all help.

I got the ATN or whatever exhaust, at idol it still has an annoying rattle between turbo and first tranny mount. I contacted them they said it shouldn't. It def idols smoother now but rattle/resonance still there. Don't know..wish it had another bracket or brace

[smass]

Blatant plug for my CBU tools. Shoot me a fair offer and they are yours.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/254121596221

[btc3076]

Mik325tds
Saw that you rent out the tools for CBU cleaning. I am interested if you could forward me details.
Thanks!

[btc3076]

Originally Posted by Mik325tds

I don't know about the wands from BAV auto, but on my original BMW wands, it was sufficient to use the markings on the wands. I put some black marker around them to see it better. It doesn't blast right through the plastic if you hit it a bit. So make sure you don't blast too long on the way out and then check.

Mik325tds
Saw that you rent out the tools for CBU cleaning. I am interested if you could forward me details.
Thanks!

[Texas335d]

I want to thank everyone who contributed to this thread.

I did my CBU cleaning last week using the tips and tricks everyone provided. It cost me $200 and took 4 nights working 3 or 4 hours each night. I have two more cars to do early next year (335i & 535i) and each one will only cost $25.

$70 Bought the BMW vacuum attachment for the tangential port
$0 Made a vacuum attachment for the swirl ports using an old vacuum tube
$8 Used the wands from the $4 Harbor Freight Blow Guns
$65 Bought the Harbor Freight 20 gallon media blaster
$50 Two boxes of fine walnut shells
$15 1 gallon of Home Depot Degreaser

I will post pictures later this week.

[Mojo11BMW]

Just been reading through this thread and found it all very interesting. It's clear these cars suffer carbon build up.

In the UK there's alot of companies offering carbon cleaning, using, I think, a mixture of Hydrogen and Water. Is that likely to be effective and has anyone tried it instead of manually cleaning?

[Mik325tds]

Originally Posted by Mojo11BMW

Just been reading through this thread and found it all very interesting. It's clear these cars suffer carbon build up.

In the UK there's alot of companies offering carbon cleaning, using, I think, a mixture of Hydrogen and Water. Is that likely to be effective and has anyone tried it instead of manually cleaning?

The problem with these types of methods of dissolving the carbon built up is that is will all go through the engine and potentially clog up the DPF and SCR.

[Mojo11BMW]

Originally Posted by Mik325tds

The problem with these types of methods of dissolving the carbon built up is that is will all go through the engine and potentially clog up the DPF and SCR.

Having had my DPF chopped out and I don't think I have an SCR (pre LCI 335d) it's not a bad solution then?

[Mik325tds]

Originally Posted by Mojo11BMW

Having had my DPF chopped out and I don't think I have an SCR (pre LCI 335d) it's not a bad solution then?

That leaves only the DOC unless you had that chopped out as well. I still don't like the idea of all that gunk going through the engine. But your choice.

[Darkswarmer]

Originally Posted by Darkswarmer

Folks,


Reporting back after two weeks of driving after my first CBU cleaning experience. I was able to stick a fuel line hose down the glow plug holes and force 100psi down there will simultaneously sucking with a shop vac + bmw intake port vacuum adapter while the intake valves were open.

Let's just say... More crap came out of there than I thought would. VERY glad I did that


After clearing codes and driving around a bit, the car is back to its old powerful self, but is still throwing an SES light. Two codes:

P0401 Insufficient Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow
P0101 Mass Air Flow Sensor Circuit Range/Performance

I just installed a brand new MAF sensor and Air temp sensor both, cleared codes and still get these two SES codes back almost immediately after starting the car.

Searching online it seems unclear what the next thing to look into would be. The P0401 (EGR) code seems to always point to CBU, but seeing as I just cleaned my off, idk what else to check?

I know it's been a while since I gave an update. I feel obligated because I've received so much value from this forum. So here's how I got rid of the stubborn codes mentioned above.

I gave up and took it to the stealership in Pleasant Grove Utah. They immediately said the aftermarket MAF I had was causing the problem, as it was making the car think it was getting air at -160C. I saw this on my OBD Fusion iphone app but I just figured it wasn't displaying right. Turns out it was. That was my second $30 aftermarket MAF I had tried on the car and both of them were showing -160C air intake temp.

BMW insisted I had to have their $450 MAF sensor to get the car running again. After they put it in, they reset the "adaptations". Which I guess is how you tell the car "Hey we just carbon cleaned you out so don't adjust for it anymore". Once they did those two things, $560 later, the codes went away and never came back. That was 6k miles ago. So, at least for my 2011 335d @ 113k miles, having a MAF straight from BMW and resetting adaptations got rid of my codes.

I guess I'll never know if simply resetting the adaptations with my cheap aftermarket MAF(s) would have worked or not. Anyone know if you can reset these 'adaptations' with carly?