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      03-11-2024, 01:50 PM   #1
E90guy
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E90 328i Crank but no start

I was cruising and came to a stop at a light, car sputtered and died. Pressed start and car continuously cranked but would not start. My first thought was fuel pump. I turned the car off, locked it, unlocked and put key in, pressed start without foot on gas to listen for pump. Didn’t hear anything. Took it to a shop that was close because I was far from home. They said fuel was getting to the cylinders. Soon after all my power accessories stopped working (windows, seats, locking.. etc) I took the long trip home and brought back my laptop and pulled up inpa. Got FRM and JBBF/JBE codes along with crankshaft and camshaft sensor codes, and vanos codes. I recently changed my battery, from ah to agm. Had not coded it yet. Would this cause these modules to fry and my car to not start? I’m not a car expert but I know enough basics to survive. The exact codes I got will be attached pictures. Does anyone know my next steps to resolve.
Edit: The shop said they would not work on it because they can’t figure it out so I got it back to my garage. I have a longer list of codes I will upload when I get home from work today. I will also go back into INPA and expand the info on the codes I did not know I could do before.
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Last edited by E90guy; 03-11-2024 at 01:58 PM..
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      03-11-2024, 03:52 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E90guy View Post
... stop at a light, car sputtered and died. Pressed start and car continuously cranked but would not start... brought back my laptop and pulled up inpa... Got FRM and JBBF/JBE codes along with crankshaft and camshaft sensor codes, and vanos codes.[Your "INPA > Functional Jobs > F4 > F1 Error Memory, ALL Modules" screens, saved 4 days ago, ONLY show Exhaust Cam Position Sensor signal fault, and NO communication from FRM Module. "72 FRM" is missing between "6D FAS" & "78 KLIMA", & JBE reports power supply interrupted.] ... I have a longer list of codes I will upload when I get home from work today. I will also go back into INPA and expand the info on the codes I did not know I could do before.
One thing at-a-time:
1) Charge Battery;
2) Connect to DME using INPA:
INPA > DME (Engine | MSV80) > F4 Fault Memory > F3 Read Fault Memory with Freeze Frame Data (most DETAILS);
3) Save & Post ScreenPrints of each screen with DME Fault Details (FF Data);
4) Use "Live Data" screen to view Cam Sensor Signals during Starter Cranking:
"INPA > DME > F5 Status > F4 VANOS"; Save Screen during Starter Cranking, & Post here.

You need BOTH Crankshaft Sensor Signal, and Cam Sensor Signals, to be received by DME so it can time Spark & Injector pulse. Without those, you get "Crank, NO Start".

Most $hops are competent in R&R (Remove & Replace). DIAGNOSIS: NOT so much. With a little time & concentration, YOU can DIAGNOSE your issue better than the $hop, using INPA, Multimeter & Charger.

When you post back, please provide Last-7 Characters of VIN.
George
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      03-11-2024, 10:34 PM   #3
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okay I did what you said. hopefully these are the freeze frames you want. first one is the DME Fault memory followed by the fault memory freeze frame data. then the live vanos capture during crank (which btw my car sputtered like it actually fired once or twice then went back to the same crank as before)... I'm also going to add in a frame of the user information. from my understanding, shouldn't all of the values in the vin row be my vin? There are 0's and y's in there. a lot of them.

Also, I had to get a new battery because my old one had drained somehow due to the electrical issues im having with the JBBFE3 and the FRM3. Which, when i installed the new battery, I went right to NCS expert to code/program it, but i was unable to because i couldnt connect to the FRM/NFRM when trying to execute the FA_WRITE task. Im not sure if thats due to the FRM being no good or because the JBBFE isnt sending power to it? Or if the cable im using isn't the right pinout to do job? I have no idea Im still learning.
Attached Images
File Type: pdf saved codes1.pdf (156.4 KB, 9 views)
File Type: pdf MSV.pdf (107.1 KB, 5 views)
File Type: pdf VANOS crank print.pdf (78.9 KB, 13 views)
File Type: pdf user information.pdf (98.9 KB, 7 views)
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      03-11-2024, 10:38 PM   #4
E90guy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbalthrop View Post
One thing at-a-time:
1) Charge Battery;
2) Connect to DME using INPA:
INPA > DME (Engine | MSV80) > F4 Fault Memory > F3 Read Fault Memory with Freeze Frame Data (most DETAILS);
3) Save & Post ScreenPrints of each screen with DME Fault Details (FF Data);
4) Use "Live Data" screen to view Cam Sensor Signals during Starter Cranking:
"INPA > DME > F5 Status > F4 VANOS"; Save Screen during Starter Cranking, & Post here.

You need BOTH Crankshaft Sensor Signal, and Cam Sensor Signals, to be received by DME so it can time Spark & Injector pulse. Without those, you get "Crank, NO Start".

Most $hops are competent in R&R (Remove & Replace). DIAGNOSIS: NOT so much. With a little time & concentration, YOU can DIAGNOSE your issue better than the $hop, using INPA, Multimeter & Charger.

When you post back, please provide Last-7 Characters of VIN.
George

The save screen was weird from my computer so here is some picture I took during the crank.
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      03-11-2024, 11:11 PM   #5
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Since no one has chimed in yet. I’d start by checking your fuses seeing how you are having an issue connecting to frm. Only take you a whole five minutes time. You might have had different voltage going through the car since you never registered the battery. There’s a chance that you just blew a fuse. You are more likely to blow a fuse before frying anything. That’s why they are there. Then I’d check the exhaust cam sensor with a multimeter.

When I went through and checked all my codes after first getting my car, some of the codes were there because some fuses were missing. Your car will let you know. One was frm code. I didn’t try the live data log but pretty sure it wouldn’t work without that fuse in or with it blown. mean I’m not a BMW mechanic either but if your radio fuse is blown your radio isn’t gonna work obviously. There are like 5 of them for that module and pretty sure most are only 5 amps so a small surge could knock one out pretty easily.

Fuses is one of the first things I would’ve checked on almost any car if it just died on me without any weird noises. I’ve had some pretty shotty vehicles over the years and a blown fuse can stop them from running just as easily as a mechanical meltdown.

Good luck!👍
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      03-12-2024, 01:18 AM   #6
gbalthrop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E90guy View Post
... fault memory freeze frame data. then the live vanos capture during crank (which btw my car sputtered like it actually fired once or twice then went back to the same crank as before)...
Let's just deal with Crank, NO Start now and then go to FRM NOT communicating. As stated earlier, "72 FRM" is NOT present on Module list. That means either there is NO Voltage Supply or Ground to Module, OR that the Bus communication between FRM & JBE is faulty. Do either your Interior, or Exterior lights work? Preliminary check on your 2011 328i is EACH of 4 FRM Fuses, located on JB Fuse Panel: F41, F81, F84, F86. If one of them has blown, please let us know which ONE.

The significant DME Fault Code is 2AA1, Exhaust Cam Sensor Signal, Above Threshold. Here is LINK to BMW Fault Code Lookup Fault Info sheet; see Service Notes for Diagnosis steps:
https://bmwfault.codes/XMLDiagView?d...MAOQA4ADAANAA=

Your "VANOS Crank Print" does NOT show necessary info regarding Exhaust (Auslass) Actual Cam Angle during cranking, but it appears to be SAME angle (~ -115 Degrees) as with only Ignition ON, BEFORE Starter Crank.

I will attach ISTA ScreenPrints of Sensor Circuit, Component Locations & Connector Views to NEXT Post.

With Ignition ON, and KL87 (dme main relay) active, there should be battery voltage at X6224/3 (Socket #3 of ExhCamSensor Connector X6224), Orange wire.

Following TESTS, Ignition OFF & BOTH Connectors DIS-connected:
1) There should be Continuity to Chassis Ground at X6224/2, Black/White wire, and with Ignition OFF, and Both Connectors X6224 & X60007 disconnected,
2) there should be continuity between BOTH ends of Signal wire, Yellow/Blue wire between X6224/1 & X60007/12.
3) There should be NO continuity between X6224/1 & Chassis Ground, OR between X6224/1 & X6224/3, Orange wire.

Please let us know what you find, or if you have questions.
George
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      03-12-2024, 01:22 AM   #7
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Attached are ISTA ScreenPrints as described in Prior Post, for 2011 328i E90.
George
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      03-12-2024, 09:28 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbalthrop View Post
Let's just deal with Crank, NO Start now and then go to FRM NOT communicating. As stated earlier, "72 FRM" is NOT present on Module list. That means either there is NO Voltage Supply or Ground to Module, OR that the Bus communication between FRM & JBE is faulty. Do either your Interior, or Exterior lights work? Preliminary check on your 2011 328i is EACH of 4 FRM Fuses, located on JB Fuse Panel: F41, F81, F84, F86. If one of them has blown, please let us know which ONE.

The significant DME Fault Code is 2AA1, Exhaust Cam Sensor Signal, Above Threshold. Here is LINK to BMW Fault Code Lookup Fault Info sheet; see Service Notes for Diagnosis steps:
https://bmwfault.codes/XMLDiagView?d...MAOQA4ADAANAA=

Your "VANOS Crank Print" does NOT show necessary info regarding Exhaust (Auslass) Actual Cam Angle during cranking, but it appears to be SAME angle (~ -115 Degrees) as with only Ignition ON, BEFORE Starter Crank.

I will attach ISTA ScreenPrints of Sensor Circuit, Component Locations & Connector Views to NEXT Post.

With Ignition ON, and KL87 (dme main relay) active, there should be battery voltage at X6224/3 (Socket #3 of ExhCamSensor Connector X6224), Orange wire.

Following TESTS, Ignition OFF & BOTH Connectors DIS-connected:
1) There should be Continuity to Chassis Ground at X6224/2, Black/White wire, and with Ignition OFF, and Both Connectors X6224 & X60007 disconnected,
2) there should be continuity between BOTH ends of Signal wire, Yellow/Blue wire between X6224/1 & X60007/12.
3) There should be NO continuity between X6224/1 & Chassis Ground, OR between X6224/1 & X6224/3, Orange wire.

Please let us know what you find, or if you have questions.
George
Okay I did these tests.

Fuses F41, F81, F84, F86 are all good.

Next:
- with ignition on, KL87 is receiving 12.3v, and X6224/3 is at 12.3v
1. there is NO continuity to chassis ground from X6224/2. Yes I unplugged both connectors and ignition is off. Note: There is continuity from X6224/2 to X60007/25, same black white wire. And there is continuity from X6224/3, orange wire, to chassis ground. Not sure what that means
2. There is continuity between X6224/1 and X60007/12
3. There is NO continuity between X6224/1 & Chassis Ground, OR between X6224/1 & X6224/3.

So it looks like we found the culprit. But I don’t know where to go from here. I’m guessing that the black/white X6224/2 is the ground? Where do I go from here?

Also just want to say thank you so much for the help I would be getting reamed by dealer prices out here in Hawaii!

Last edited by E90guy; 03-13-2024 at 12:30 AM..
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      03-13-2024, 01:42 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E90guy View Post
Okay I did these tests.

Fuses F41, F81, F84, F86 are all good.

Next:
- with ignition on, KL87 is receiving 12.3v, and X6224/3 is at 12.3v
1. there is NO continuity to chassis ground from X6224/2. Yes I unplugged both connectors and ignition is off. Note: There is continuity from X6224/2 to X60007/25, same black white wire. And there is continuity from X6224/3, orange wire, to chassis ground. Not sure what that means
2. There is continuity between X6224/1 and X60007/12
3. There is NO continuity between X6224/1 & Chassis Ground, OR between X6224/1 & X6224/3.

So it looks like we found the culprit. But I don’t know where to go from here. I’m guessing that the black/white X6224/2 is the ground? Where do I go from here?

Also just want to say thank you so much for the help I would be getting reamed by dealer prices out here in Hawaii!

I’ve been racking my brain all night on this stuff.

First, I’m still confused on how I was supposed to get continuity on the X6224/2 to chassis ground when both the X6224 and the X60007 were unplugged? Is it supposed to have a ground connection elsewhere? I tested pin 25 of where X60007 plugs into the dme to chassis ground and there was continuity. I guess I’m just confused on what it should be reading in working condition.

Second, if it’s not an issue with the wiring then is it an issue with the timing? Causing the camshaft sensor to not get a reading? Possibly the vanos bolt recall for my car?

Again thank you for your help.
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      03-13-2024, 08:35 AM   #10
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What year is your car?
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      03-13-2024, 09:03 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by Mike K View Post
What year is your car?
2011
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      03-13-2024, 11:31 AM   #12
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Thanks. Here's my Vanos saga on my 2011 328i e91:

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...ight=whistling

It might help you to understand the issue.
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      03-13-2024, 12:19 PM   #13
E90guy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike K View Post
Thanks. Here's my Vanos saga on my 2011 328i e91:

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...ight=whistling

It might help you to understand the issue.
Thanks for the input Mike,

I read your story yesterday as I scoured the internet for answers. My E90 hasn’t had the VANOS recall done yet and my VIN is one of the affected ones, along with a PCV heater recall. I’m trying to figure out my 2aa1 exhaust camshaft sensor signal issue before I pull my valve covers and check everything out. I have a brand new valve cover and all the hardware and doohickeys as I was planning on installing milvs soon. If I can’t figure this out I will be pulling it to check the timing and I will check the vanos bolts while I’m in there.

Thanks
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      03-13-2024, 10:45 PM   #14
gbalthrop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E90guy View Post
... 1. there is NO continuity to chassis ground from X6224/2. Yes I unplugged both connectors and ignition is off. [My BAD, See Below]
Note: There is continuity from X6224/2 to X60007/25, same black white wire.[That's OK] And there is continuity from X6224/3, orange wire, to chassis ground. Not sure what that means [Me either; that's NOT a test I suggested.]
2. There is continuity between X6224/1 and X60007/12 [That's OK]
3. There is NO continuity between X6224/1 & Chassis Ground, OR between X6224/1 & X6224/3. [That's OK; those tests, (2) & (3), are my interpretation of the Fault Info sheet that states (Service Notes) to "Check signal wire for short to positive, ground, opens"]...
My apologies for an error in my written TEST Steps. Guess I should NOT try to write technical stuff after 2 AM my time. I got in a hurry and added the Bold/Underlined header where it did NOT pertain.

You are quite correct: there is NO Ground in the Black/White wire if X60007 is disconnected. In FACT, there MAY be NO Ground in that Black/White wire UNLESS Ignition is ON and DME is powered, as the wiring diagram appears to show "Switched Ground" at X60007/25.

BEFORE I added the header about Ignition OFF & disconnecting both connectors (out of concern for shorts during testing), the text read:
"1) There should be Continuity to Chassis Ground at X6224/2, Black/White wire". That is only true IF X60007 is still connected, and you simply disconnect X6224 and test for continuity to ground at X6224/2. And as NOW stated, you may need to turn Ignition ON to get "switched Ground".

ALL AFTER that was correct (Unless I'm going senile ;-):

"and with Ignition OFF, and Both Connectors X6224 & X60007 disconnected,
2) there should be continuity between BOTH ends of Signal wire, Yellow/Blue wire between X6224/1 & X60007/12.
3) There should be NO continuity between X6224/1 & Chassis Ground, OR between X6224/1 & X6224/3, Orange wire."

As stated above, that is MY interpretation of the Fault Info Sheet, Service Notes, HOW one should test for continuity in Signal wire, and for short to Ground, as well as short to B+ (Orange wire).

Obviously, to complete ALL tests, one should test for battery Voltage at X6224/3, Orange wire, with Ignition ON, KL87 Active. Sorry for the error. If anything is STILL unclear, or possibly NOT correct, please advise.
George
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      03-13-2024, 10:52 PM   #15
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Another update:

Tested all fuses again in case I missed anything, checked connections. Still nothing. Pulled Exhaust camshaft sensor and tested it. Was fluctuating perfectly from 4.73v to 0v. Is there a way to see this in inpa when testing? I was using a multimeter and a wrench to test it. I’d like to know if it’s reflecting in the system through inpa somehow. I also pulled the exhaust vanos solenoid and tested and cleaned it. Looked like it was operating correctly but I’ll probably replace them tomorrow as preventative measures anyway. Still no start.

On another note I acquired a used FRM module and it fixed all those related problems. Gonna send my old one in to get repaired and sell this one.

So now I’m trying to figure out what to do next. I was searching around online for anything related to the 2aa1 code and found someone saying all 8 of their vanos bolts broke and cause their car to crank no start. So if I can’t resolve this in next couple days I’m going to tow my car over to the dealership and have them fix my recalls, which means they should be able to take a look at timing while the VC is off. I’ve crossed off a lot of the things it could have been. I’m down to vanos bolts/solenoids, dme/cas/ews4 issue, or timing.
Will post any updates as I figure stuff out

Last edited by E90guy; 03-13-2024 at 11:44 PM..
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      03-13-2024, 11:10 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbalthrop View Post
My apologies for an error in my written TEST Steps. Guess I should NOT try to write technical stuff after 2 AM my time. I got in a hurry and added the Bold/Underlined header where it did NOT pertain.

You are quite correct: there is NO Ground in the Black/White wire if X60007 is disconnected. In FACT, there MAY be NO Ground in that Black/White wire UNLESS Ignition is ON and DME is powered, as the wiring diagram appears to show "Switched Ground" at X60007/25.

BEFORE I added the header about Ignition OFF & disconnecting both connectors (out of concern for shorts during testing), the text read:
"1) There should be Continuity to Chassis Ground at X6224/2, Black/White wire". That is only true IF X60007 is still connected, and you simply disconnect X6224 and test for continuity to ground at X6224/2. And as NOW stated, you may need to turn Ignition ON to get "switched Ground".

ALL AFTER that was correct (Unless I'm going senile ;-):

"and with Ignition OFF, and Both Connectors X6224 & X60007 disconnected,
2) there should be continuity between BOTH ends of Signal wire, Yellow/Blue wire between X6224/1 & X60007/12.
3) There should be NO continuity between X6224/1 & Chassis Ground, OR between X6224/1 & X6224/3, Orange wire."

As stated above, that is MY interpretation of the Fault Info Sheet, Service Notes, HOW one should test for continuity in Signal wire, and for short to Ground, as well as short to B+ (Orange wire).

Obviously, to complete ALL tests, one should test for battery Voltage at X6224/3, Orange wire, with Ignition ON, KL87 Active. Sorry for the error. If anything is STILL unclear, or possibly NOT correct, please advise.
George

Thanks for the clarification George. I actually just posted an update after you posted

So with that, all of the tests I ran checked out. Results are:
- Continuity to chassis ground at X6224/2 while ignition ON
- 12.3v at X6224/3 with ignition on. KL87 also active with 12.3v
With Ignition OFF and both X6224 and X60007 disconnected:
- Continuity between both ends of Yellow/Blue wire X6224/2 to X60007/12.
- No continuity to chassis from X6224/1 or X6224/3 nor to each other.

I went ahead and did some extra testing as noted in my update above. So unless anyone can think of anything else for me to check I’m at a loss.

On a positive note though. I am down to one code. Just the 2aa1.

Last edited by E90guy; 03-13-2024 at 11:45 PM..
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      04-19-2024, 12:37 PM   #17
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Hey guys just wanted to put one last update in here for anyone that has this issue in the future. It ended up being the exhaust side VANOS bolts had completely sheared off. I pulled of my VC to check timing and that was the first thing I saw. Called the dealership and ask if I could get it covered by recall and service guy told me to put the VC back on and dont tell them I opened it and they would cover it lol. Lucky I got a someone cool on the phone. I was able to get it covered by recall and got my car back good as new!

Now its time to turn a perfectly good running car into not that lol
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