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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > MHD Flasher for N54 - general discussion



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      06-24-2018, 07:38 AM   #11441
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So Iíve reset throttle, intake and load adaptations. Iíll give it a few days to repopulate and see how we go. Initial drive hasnít resolved the lurching gear shifts but throttle sensitivity is much better as you might expect (shows I drive like a nanny)!

Last edited by ManiacGT; 06-24-2018 at 07:56 AM.
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      06-24-2018, 07:41 AM   #11442
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Originally Posted by ManiacGT View Post
So that went badly. I reset throttle and intake tables as the app allows and this has resulted in a violently revving idle up and down up and down and is now undriveable with half engine icon.

Great.
Read the instructions at the top of the reset adaptations page in the app....
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      06-24-2018, 07:57 AM   #11443
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Originally Posted by titium View Post
Read the instructions at the top of the reset adaptations page in the app....
I know. RTFM. My mistake.

All is well again after clearing codes and waiting. Too eager to get the car fixed. Impatient owner syndrome.
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      06-24-2018, 12:24 PM   #11444
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I like this car so much, even a video like this doesn't really do it justice. So nice doing 300kph all day on the German autobahn and visiting the NŁrburgring at noon. No problems with IAT or oiltemps...

https://www.youtube.com/edit?o=U&video_id=NXWxdx6TXDA
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      06-24-2018, 02:11 PM   #11445
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i tried limiting 2nd gear to 12 psi in mhd and flashed the map again but it did not work ... do i have to put 0 for 1st and 3rd gear in order for it to work or can i just leave it blank ??
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      06-24-2018, 02:23 PM   #11446
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ManiacGT View Post
Here you go, sport+ 40-80 on ramp to motorway this morning.

Not as bad at upshifting as usual but not right either. Seems worse D1 to D2 to D3 than higher gears.

So many questions... And the cylinder 4 timing after the upshift, is that knock? Torque actual at 0 for the shift? why is throttle all over the shop when the pedal is at WOT with traction off?

LOG attached. Also imported here: https://datazap.me/u/maniacgt/wot-lo...30&zoom=33-140
In that log you are getting timing drops post-shift. That's because boost-mean is going above boost target.

I don't know what would cause that on a stock car though. Maybe bad boost solenoids?

Between that and the cat protection mode in the second log, there's definitely something amiss.
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      06-24-2018, 02:33 PM   #11447
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarAbuser View Post
In that log you are getting timing drops post-shift. That's because boost-mean is going above boost target.

I don't know what would cause that on a stock car though. Maybe bad boost solenoids?

Between that and the cat protection mode in the second log, there's definitely something amiss.
Wastegates (because theyíre bloody rattley)? Itís weird Iíd get all this after new injectors. Coding of injectors wrong? Perhaps I can get the dealer to send logs into bmw technical?

Last edited by ManiacGT; 06-24-2018 at 02:45 PM.
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      06-24-2018, 02:54 PM   #11448
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarAbuser View Post
Something strange with fuel mode. Fuel trims and rail pressure are ok but your lambda readings are spiking after shift which seems to trigger the cat protection fuel mode.

I'll take a closer look after since i'm just viewing on mobile now. Might be worth sending martial@mhd an email about this and mentioning the strange shift behaviour. It's the first time I've seen fuel mode 6 being triggered like that.
There is a weirdly high LAMBDA spike in that one log, but the load info and some other stuff makes it look like it was caused by lessened throttle - @ManiacGT did you let off the gas pedal for the shift? Or possibly the DME had an event like wheelspin that caused it - but the 13.x LAMBDA during/after shifts just looks like regular stock mapping issues to me for the most part still.

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Originally Posted by ManiacGT View Post
Hi, thanks for sharing your thoughts.

The thing for me is that before the overheat, injectors and waterpump the car ran and shifted fine so my quest is to get that back.

Iím going to try adaptations as you suggest and after that a flash to see if it corrects anything.

Worth a try as I can always go back to stock.
Well hopefully the adaptation resets are helping with some things for you, but even then they're mostly designed around hardware changes - the whole reason they adapt is to compensate for worn hardware and they're typically reset by BMW after swapping out for new wear and tear items so I still highly suggest you perform some maintenance too.

The overheat could've absolutely exposed the faults in any old hardware by putting more stress on things and causing them to operate faulty now. I really think at *least* getting your plugs (if they have a few thousand on them) and trans fluid changed (regardless of anything, since you're experiencing shift issues) will help you out a drastic amount with performance deficits. The trans fluid is a cheap and easy swap, if you take it to a BMW-specialized Indy I can't imagine you'd pay much more than $200 all said and done and you can then either reset trans adapts yourself when you're ready to do the drive cycle or have them do it for you.
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      06-24-2018, 03:00 PM   #11449
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If weíre talking about the first log (the 40-80+ Mph run) thatís solid WOT and you can see that in the pedal data. On the second log I let off the pedal just after the shift due to traffic.

Plugs etc were changed a week or two before the overheat as part of normal service cycles.

Trans fluid is original (and bmw say life?) and the car has just 36k miles on it.
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      06-24-2018, 03:30 PM   #11450
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paanzerfaust View Post
There is a weirdly high LAMBDA spike in that one log, but the load info and some other stuff makes it look like it was caused by lessened throttle - @ManiacGT did you let off the gas pedal for the shift? Or possibly the DME had an event like wheelspin that caused it - but the 13.x LAMBDA during/after shifts just looks like regular stock mapping issues to me for the most part still.



Well hopefully the adaptation resets are helping with some things for you, but even then they're mostly designed around hardware changes - the whole reason they adapt is to compensate for worn hardware and they're typically reset by BMW after swapping out for new wear and tear items so I still highly suggest you perform some maintenance too.

The overheat could've absolutely exposed the faults in any old hardware by putting more stress on things and causing them to operate faulty now. I really think at *least* getting your plugs (if they have a few thousand on them) and trans fluid changed (regardless of anything, since you're experiencing shift issues) will help you out a drastic amount with performance deficits. The trans fluid is a cheap and easy swap, if you take it to a BMW-specialized Indy I can't imagine you'd pay much more than $200 all said and done and you can then either reset trans adapts yourself when you're ready to do the drive cycle or have them do it for you.
There's no backing off the throttle there, he has the accel pedal logged. That spike looks like fuel injection was cut.

It's a waste of time changing transmission fluid. He's owned the car since forever and it's done low miles. He also has a DCT so it's not going to be cheap like a normal auto.
Changing plugs would help if he is having lots of timing corrections but that's not the case. Also since injectors were replaced at a dealer then they will change plugs as part of the process so they are likely new.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ManiacGT View Post
If weíre talking about the first log (the 40-80+ Mph run) thatís solid WOT and you can see that in the pedal data. On the second log I let off the pedal just after the shift due to traffic.

Plugs etc were changed a week or two before the overheat as part of normal service cycles.

Trans fluid is original (and bmw say life?) and the car has just 36k miles on it.


I would create a new topic on the issue and include those last two logs. Maybe also send an email to mhd.tuning@gmail.com and see if martial can help.

More logs would help. I think the main issue is the timing drops due to boost mean going over target after the shift, the fuel mode issue is strange so it would be interesting to see if it reoccurs.
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      06-24-2018, 03:53 PM   #11451
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Thanks Iíve emailed MHD so Iíll see what he thinks. Itís all a bit WTF to me.
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      06-24-2018, 07:54 PM   #11452
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarAbuser View Post
There's no backing off the throttle there, he has the accel pedal logged. That spike looks like fuel injection was cut.

It's a waste of time changing transmission fluid. He's owned the car since forever and it's done low miles. He also has a DCT so it's not going to be cheap like a normal auto.
Changing plugs would help if he is having lots of timing corrections but that's not the case. Also since injectors were replaced at a dealer then they will change plugs as part of the process so they are likely new.





I would create a new topic on the issue and include those last two logs. Maybe also send an email to mhd.tuning@gmail.com and see if martial can help.

More logs would help. I think the main issue is the timing drops due to boost mean going over target after the shift, the fuel mode issue is strange so it would be interesting to see if it reoccurs.
In the log you quoted he definitely does let off the pedal for the second lambda spike (where it goes up to 31+), though yes not for the 140lambda spike. The larger, first spike has a slight torque limiting applied right before the spike, with a lowered load request and several other things which is why I said it looked like a traction control event, although I agree with you that the fuel shouldn't be cut nearly enough to spike it that high. My suggestion for replacing the plugs was based on the timing pulls he was claiming to experience (even though as I said before, from the logs they look in line with stock mapping) coupled with the fact that he wasn't previously using premium fuel so the plugs could've had issues themselves. While I'm sure some dealerships might replace plugs at the same time as injectors if you're willing to pay, I'd be surprised if any dealer would replace them for free and without telling someone considering OEM plugs would be rung out at a few hundred bucks. Thats kind of a moot point for us right now though if the only timing pulls he experiences are post-shift, because that's par for the course unfortunately.

I'll stand firm with my suggestion of the trans fluid change though. If his biggest complaint is shifts and sloppy trans feel, even with no DME problems then chances are the trans needs some servicing and a fluid change is the quickest, easiest and cheapest so why not try it as a first step? Regardless of the lower mileage, the oil is 10 years old now at best. Oil will degrade over time, not just with high heat and friction, and any abuse thrown at the trans over the last decade will just mean the oil is even worse off. I'm aware the fluid is claimed as "lifelong" because it's longer lasting than older options but the only thing it's lifelong of is maybe a lease's life - I'm sure you wouldn't swap oil that's been sitting for that long into your car even if it only had 30k miles on it right? And DCT or not, a fluid change is a fluid change is a fluid change, you drain it and fill it, it's not gonna cost a grand in labor. Absolute worst case scenario is his trans will still be happier and he'll be able to move on to the next step of diagnoses.

And I agree about getting in contact with MHD or even Wedge himself - MHD will look at logs for free and has plenty of experience with the n54 so he might have ideas even if the logs aren't ultra wacky. Worst case scenario Maniac, you could find a shop that works on a lot of N54s and ask them if they'll just take it for a test drive to see what you mean first hand.
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      06-25-2018, 02:00 AM   #11453
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So again, thanks for the input here everyone. It's keeping me going rather than giving up and chopping my loved car in.

I get what you're saying about the oil and perhaps the overheat my have had some impact on the oil but again all was well before the injector/waterpump replacement works.

In my mind it can only be that the issues are either related to the overheat event (but then why don't other people seem to have issues I'm having as many N54's have overheated/lost waterpumps over the years) or it's related to something the dealer did when working on the car, be that coding, software, the new parts or something they messed up, damaged in the works.

The issue is so unique hardly anyone I've spoken with has any thoughts on why this is occurring and now I have logs I'm hopeful, as you guys have outlined, that it may help narrow down the cause.

I'll see what info I get back from MHD, I'm also going to drop the logs with the dealer as I know they raised a PUMA on this and perhaps the logs might find their way to BMW technical (long shot I know) for them to feed in on. I don't really want to start spending on this and that (any more than I have done) until I've a more confident diagnosis really, otherwise I'll end up spending on all sorts without any guarantee its the issue at hand.
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      06-25-2018, 03:43 AM   #11454
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kulxio View Post
Hi everyone!

I'm using MHD in my 06 335i and planning to replace my turbos.
I think upgraded OEM ones will be fine since I don't want to spend too much money, and also not kill my automatic transmission.
Anyone has experience of these turbos? http://turbo-technik-hamburg.de/Spor...560PS-961.html
I'm living in europe and would prefer to buy something from here.

I'm also planning to buy silicon outlets, a chargepipe and an oil catch can.

Regarding MHD, I understand that a custom map is needed in order to get the most of the new turbos. However, is there any risk of harming them if I dont?
I definitely want to do a custom map eventually, but I'm planning to add more mods soon. It feels pointless to buy a custom map, and then a new one soon again.

The mods I'm planning to add soone are:
Upgraded fuel pump (in order to run E85)
3.5 map sensor (I guess this is needed in order to get the most out of a custom map?)

And these are my current mods:
MHD stage 2+ E30
Afe intake
Catless downpipes (unknown brand)
Bigger intercooler (unknown brand)
Cat-back (unknown brand)

Do you have any opinions? Is there anything else I should add?
I suggest
https://www.hm-turbotechnik.com/bmw/...i-n54-biturbo/

they are in the german tuning scene and produce great turboīs as far as I read the reviews from customers on facebook. They also have partnership with a garage to put turbos in car. As they have many many 335iīs, I think they have the skillz for these cars.
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      06-25-2018, 12:45 PM   #11455
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OlliD View Post
I suggest
https://www.hm-turbotechnik.com/bmw/...i-n54-biturbo/

they are in the german tuning scene and produce great turboīs as far as I read the reviews from customers on facebook. They also have partnership with a garage to put turbos in car. As they have many many 335iīs, I think they have the skillz for these cars.
Thank you, I'll check them out! they seem to have pretty good prices aswell.

What I liked about turbo-technik-hamburg is the fact that they only use brand new parts, and I don't have to send in my old turbos.
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      06-25-2018, 06:41 PM   #11456
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ManiacGT View Post
So again, thanks for the input here everyone. It's keeping me going rather than giving up and chopping my loved car in.

I get what you're saying about the oil and perhaps the overheat my have had some impact on the oil but again all was well before the injector/waterpump replacement works.

In my mind it can only be that the issues are either related to the overheat event (but then why don't other people seem to have issues I'm having as many N54's have overheated/lost waterpumps over the years) or it's related to something the dealer did when working on the car, be that coding, software, the new parts or something they messed up, damaged in the works.

The issue is so unique hardly anyone I've spoken with has any thoughts on why this is occurring and now I have logs I'm hopeful, as you guys have outlined, that it may help narrow down the cause.

I'll see what info I get back from MHD, I'm also going to drop the logs with the dealer as I know they raised a PUMA on this and perhaps the logs might find their way to BMW technical (long shot I know) for them to feed in on. I don't really want to start spending on this and that (any more than I have done) until I've a more confident diagnosis really, otherwise I'll end up spending on all sorts without any guarantee its the issue at hand.
Yeah, I know how frustrating those obscure issues can be - I had my ELV completely lock me out of the ability to start my car when a Chicago winter drained my battery of all of its life, and the only info I could find was from Spanish and Portuguese sites at the time - luckily the few posts I did find had a step by step walk through on fixing it and it was super easy once I had INPA and stuff installed.

I know the dealer-installed "rattlefix" software update causes some low-end response and boost issues for some people but if they just swapped out your turbos for new ones hopefully they didn't install that, and that's still a predominantly DME related thing not trans-related but I guess it could potentially be contributing to the issue too if it's installed. Again that'd be solved by remapping, either through MHD which is easiest or installing the BMW tools and flashing an update manually.

Relating to logs, you could always pull your trans adapt info too and include that in your emails or communications, that could she'd some light too
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      06-26-2018, 08:06 PM   #11457
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Can anyone recommend a custom tuner? I have FBO n54 with JB4 and BEF via MHD. Using the e85 bef right now but
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      06-30-2018, 03:25 AM   #11458
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So I decided to try out a backend flash together with my JB4.
I quickly decided to go back to the MHD OTS Stage2+ map, but it seems like MHD won't recognize my car as EURO-spec now.
I'm getting the code 2A18 DME heater: activation which I have to clear everytime i start the car to get rid of the check engine light.

Unfortunatly, I can't find the backup of my stock map.

Any ideas? Maybe someone has a euro-spec stockmap which I can restore, and then maybe MHD will recognize my car as euro-spec?
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      06-30-2018, 04:20 PM   #11459
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kulxio View Post
So I decided to try out a backend flash together with my JB4.
I quickly decided to go back to the MHD OTS Stage2+ map, but it seems like MHD won't recognize my car as EURO-spec now.
I'm getting the code 2A18 DME heater: activation which I have to clear everytime i start the car to get rid of the check engine light.

Unfortunatly, I can't find the backup of my stock map.

Any ideas? Maybe someone has a euro-spec stockmap which I can restore, and then maybe MHD will recognize my car as euro-spec?
Full 40min flash should fix it.
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      07-04-2018, 12:04 AM   #11460
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Was a solution ever found for those o2 sensor errors? I have the same issue now.
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      07-04-2018, 07:14 AM   #11461
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Posting here since it seems to be a good place for N54 knowledge, if there's somewhere else I should be asking, please let me know.

I've got a 2009 535xi. It was running flawlessly last week. I put the MHD flash on it and it immediately misfired, which was no big surprise, since the plugs and coils are old. I ordered a set of Bosch plugs and coils.

Not wanting to keep clearing misfire codes, I flashed it back to stock and the car hasn't moved since. Something went wrong, and I'm not looking to place blame anywhere, I just want to fix the problem and get the car back running.

After I flashed it back to stock, I tried to start it and got a christmas tree of lights and codes, along with the idle bounce from 1200-1500 rpm and no throttle response. Seemed like a common issue, but nothing has gotten me past that point.

I have emailed MHD and they seem responsive, but don't have a lot of direction. They said to do a clear code / ignition on / ignition off for 30 sec. reset for the throttle adaptation, but that did nothing. MHD suggested doing it a few times to see if it clears. At this point, I've done it over 10 times, fully letting the car go to sleep, and nothing has changed... other than now it's not starting at all, just cranking.

I replaced the battery yesterday with a brand new AGM and registered it via Carly. No change.

At this point, I don't know what to do... I'm going to get a ISTA setup ready today, but I don't have a lot of direction from there. Can anyone help?
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      07-04-2018, 09:13 AM   #11462
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottw92 View Post
Posting here since it seems to be a good place for N54 knowledge, if there's somewhere else I should be asking, please let me know.

I've got a 2009 535xi. It was running flawlessly last week. I put the MHD flash on it and it immediately misfired, which was no big surprise, since the plugs and coils are old. I ordered a set of Bosch plugs and coils.

Not wanting to keep clearing misfire codes, I flashed it back to stock and the car hasn't moved since. Something went wrong, and I'm not looking to place blame anywhere, I just want to fix the problem and get the car back running.

After I flashed it back to stock, I tried to start it and got a christmas tree of lights and codes, along with the idle bounce from 1200-1500 rpm and no throttle response. Seemed like a common issue, but nothing has gotten me past that point.

I have emailed MHD and they seem responsive, but don't have a lot of direction. They said to do a clear code / ignition on / ignition off for 30 sec. reset for the throttle adaptation, but that did nothing. MHD suggested doing it a few times to see if it clears. At this point, I've done it over 10 times, fully letting the car go to sleep, and nothing has changed... other than now it's not starting at all, just cranking.

I replaced the battery yesterday with a brand new AGM and registered it via Carly. No change.

At this point, I don't know what to do... I'm going to get a ISTA setup ready today, but I don't have a lot of direction from there. Can anyone help?
When you say you flashed back to stock, did you save your original file as a backup and restore it or did you just use the button that says stock? Did you use the short flash or long flash? I would suggest the long flash if you have not tried it already.(with a battery charger) A list of the codes might help, a high pressure fuel pump issue would keep it from starting.
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