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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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Handbrake adjustment problem
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03-22-2022, 05:47 PM | #1 |
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Handbrake adjustment problem
Tried adjusting the Handbrake today after consulting the haynes manual and looking at some online videos.I removed handbrake gator first and pushed in spring under the handle with screwdriver until it locked. Started with offside wheel and moved hub adjuster downwards but could not get the wheel to lock. Went all the way to endpoint with the adjuster in both directions and it didnt seem to be having any effect. Tried nearside wheel then, nothing either, anyone know what the problem might be ? Thanks
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03-23-2022, 08:19 AM | #3 |
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03-23-2022, 08:31 AM | #4 |
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If your discs have been on for 14 years, be prepared for the need to change them once you get them off. I predict you'll find the rear faces (the one's you don't see) will be very seriously corroded...
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03-23-2022, 05:23 PM | #6 |
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As others have said, if they've not been off since 2008, they probably would benefit from some sort of overhaul. Check that things aren't worn or seized. Only then can you be sure everything is ship shape.
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03-24-2022, 06:23 PM | #8 |
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Tried removing the disc, not a hope, I'd imagine it would need a good belt from the inside and its very difficult to do this with the Car only on axle stands.
I got the handbrake action back to where it was anyway. I had the nearside adjuster moved down alot trying to get the wheel to lock when it should have been moved up, opposite way to the offside. Regarding the discs, look alright from what I can see, The car is only on its 2nd set of brake shoes since new. Current ones put on at 72K miles, 94k on the car now. |
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03-25-2022, 05:06 AM | #9 |
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Best way to loosen the disc is to hammer round the edge of the disc. Doing so from the inside risks damaging the wheel bearing by over-stressing it. Key to your comment about the state of the discs is '...from what I can see...'. I guarantee with discs of this age once you remove them, the inner face will be heavily corroded.
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E92 pre-LCI 325i - Ohlins R&T; H&R spacers; M3 strut brace; Swift thrust sheets; 3 x chassis braces; diff brace; N53 V-brace; 034 subframe inserts; BMS clutch stop; BMS CDV; RE g/box mounts; Delrin shift bushes; Saikoumichi OCC; Cyba scoops; BMW Perf Exhaust; HEL s/steel brake hoses; M3 rear spoiler; Recaro Sportster CSs; M3 white dash LEDs; LED Angels; LED side repeaters; BMW Perf black grille; CSL reps; SSDD carbon diffuser; Monster Wrap black roof/clear front
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03-25-2022, 09:44 AM | #10 |
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The handbrake shoes do not rub on the inside of the drum because you only pull the handbrake on when you are stationary. Because of that the inside of the drums rust badly. The normal brake pads make the discs shiny by rubbing on them, the handbrake on the BMWs doesn't rub, handbrake shoes last forever but the drum corrodes from the inside and needs to be replaced.
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03-25-2022, 10:37 AM | #11 | |
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Quote:
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06-04-2022, 07:47 AM | #13 |
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To update this I managed to remove the Disc using this method I found on youtube, worked very well.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pMuHKDI00rw The adjuster was stuck in the fully retracted position. I had watched a youtube video which incorrectly stated the adjuster should be moved down to expand the shoes when it should actually be moved up. I removed the springs, shoe retaining pins allowing the shoes themselves to come off. The adjuster was easy to unjam once off. The drum and shoes all looked ok. I applied some copper grease where the edge of the shoes makes contact with the backplate and put everything back together, replaced the disc and moved the adjuster to the fully expanded/up position which locked the wheel, then moved it down 6 or 7 clicks until the hub moved freely. Handbrake much improved now. https://flic.kr/p/2npMRHq https://flic.kr/p/2npMH2A |
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