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      01-11-2020, 03:51 PM   #45
lostsailor
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What does the hpfp bolt too? I broke this part when install my new hpfp and need to new one but don't know what it's called.
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      11-08-2020, 12:02 PM   #46
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I just did this job last night and now I'm getting 002a9a crank shaft - Intake camshaft sync code. I know the camshaft sensor is in front of the engine, but does it terminate in that black box that is hell for everyone to get off?

Anyone have a diagram of the box, I'm wondering if I pulled too hard and broke a connection. I didn't get this error prior to changing the HPFP.
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      11-24-2020, 10:35 AM   #47
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I noted that this HPFP is $550 ish from FCP Euro over the summer. I looked the other day and was shocked to see the price is now $744. I hope mine doesn't need replacing anytime soon, yikes.
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      05-06-2022, 10:29 AM   #48
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subing / reviving Now the cost at FCP Euro is $933!
Anyone use a reman one? ebay reman OEM's are about 200. Links for replacements please. Sucky thing is I looked through the records from previous owner and it was replaced at dealer at 51k in 2015 now its got only 84k as I dont drive it much. Thats 33k mi and the F%&king thing is down again.
I get the very rough idle / stall then if I rev it a little it will run then CEL and fans go full on 29F2 and 2B2C codes.
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      10-07-2022, 09:46 AM   #49
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replaced HPFP and now get 29DC (10716) Fault Code

Hello everyone, I would really appreciate some advise. I initially had the code for the HPFP and had it replaced. Now I get the 29DC (10716) Fault Code which is "The cylinder injection switch-off code indicates the N54 is not flowing enough fuel."
I do own a standalone machine that plugs into the car to read faults and clear them but not sure if it can help me to find the root cause of the problem.
Should I simply buy 6 new injectors and have them replaced?

Any advise would be highly appreciated.
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      10-23-2022, 07:38 PM   #50
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For anyone wondering, this HPFP worked great for me.
https://ebay.us/V7mG2N
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      01-10-2023, 02:51 PM   #51
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The HPFP is $960 on FCP and it is a remanufactured pump! Read the Description. They can be had for $120-140 on eBay. Some are remanufactured and some say genuine. For that kind of price difference, might have to go eBay lol.

I'm not sure if my cars still have the original HPFP or not (2007 and 2008 at 6k and 60k miles). There was no mention in the Carfax of any replacement. Running fine for now tho. Will definitely DIY when the time comes.
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      12-05-2023, 05:55 PM   #52
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Hey, having this tool is really helpful for the 3rd and hard to reach 5mm hex bolt on the HPFP

GEARWRENCH 3/8" Drive Long Ball End Hex Bit Socket, 5mm - 80443 (search Amazon or Harbor Freight)

And yea, I'm doing a walnut blast next.
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      01-02-2024, 04:50 PM   #53
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Thank for the suggestion on the extra-long 5mm hex socket tool. I bought it just before I replaced a HPFP and it was very useful, almost essential.
BTW - in an attempt to give myself even more room, I started to removed the sensor next to the HPFP which was a bit in the way. That was a MISTAKE, as lots of oil started to come out; perhaps its the oil level sensor.
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      02-01-2024, 07:30 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R3dLeader View Post
The HPFP is $960 on FCP and it is a remanufactured pump! Read the Description. They can be had for $120-140 on eBay. Some are remanufactured and some say genuine. For that kind of price difference, might have to go eBay lol.
Not true anymore. FCP Euro now carries only the brand new, Genuine BMW HPFP, which is also the most up-to-date version. Unfortunately, the price is now $1,025, which is highway robbery.

However, the APALLING track record of remanufactured pumps on eBay and Amazon is becoming evident. Those refurbished pumps are likely the first (and worst) revision of the pump, which continue to fail, especially after being "rebuilt" in China and elsewhere. I saw a video on how they do it, and it's a disgrace. They probably get all of their pump carcasses from the BMW recall and throw in another seal, which just doesn't last. There are many moving parts inside that pump exposed to extreme pressures, and a solenoid that is fed with a PWM signal to modulate the output pressure. None of those parts are replaced... only the seal, which is not the only thing that fails!

At least with a genuine pump from FCP Euro, the likelihood of failure is much smaller, and they will replace it for free if it does fail.

Here's one typical review from FCP Euro:
"Don’t waste your money on eBay pumps - get this instead! I made a mistake and bought HPFP on eBay, it failed after 14k miles, now replacing it again because I started to have long cranks and limp mode. Had 2BDE shadow code, this fixed that all. Car feels much faster too, felt like I lost 50-70hp with old pump from eBay."

Last edited by GSB; 03-20-2024 at 03:04 PM..
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      02-01-2024, 08:44 PM   #55
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I bought a brand new pump, partly because it was being installed in my daughter's car who lives 1200 miles away and makes 2400 mile trips several times a year to visit her parents. Obviously its a tricky part which has been problematic and frequently updated; so you definitely want the latest version.

If it were easy to replace, as it is on some cars, I would consider a cheap one for my own car; but on the N54/N55 engines you cannot realistically replace it on the side of the road.
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      02-02-2024, 12:47 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrvedit View Post
I bought a brand new pump, partly because it was being installed in my daughter's car who lives 1200 miles away and makes 2400 mile trips several times a year to visit her parents. Obviously its a tricky part which has been problematic and frequently updated; so you definitely want the latest version.

If it were easy to replace, as it is on some cars, I would consider a cheap one for my own car; but on the N54/N55 engines you cannot realistically replace it on the side of the road.
And this is very true!
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      03-20-2024, 08:22 AM   #57
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Torque specs please

Hi there great DIY for the HPFP! This actually gave me the confidence to finally do this next weekend!

Would you or anyone know what the torque specs are for the 3 allen bolts holding the HPFP?

Did some googling and all I found was the torque specs for the fuel line nuts @ 30nm.
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      03-20-2024, 12:19 PM   #58
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The torque range for M6 grade 8.8 socket head bolts is Min of 79 and max of 96 INCH lbs. or 7-8 Ft/Lbs, which is not very much. I used blue thread lock as well.
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      03-21-2024, 12:30 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrvedit View Post
The torque range for M6 grade 8.8 socket head bolts is Min of 79 and max of 96 INCH lbs. or 7-8 Ft/Lbs, which is not very much. I used blue thread lock as well.
Thanks!
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      03-21-2024, 12:38 AM   #60
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Sorry I have another quick question. I already bought all the parts for this job including the long allen hex rod tool and low pressure sensor ...might as well change this while I'm down there.

I'm just curious if my HPFP is really busted. At a normal stage without the half check engine light, I scanned it at idle and got 45000 to 50000 hPa or around 725 psi. I think this is a normal pressure right?

My E93 N54 engine only does the half check engine and goes on limp mode when i hit more than +4000 rpm for sudden accelerations. As soon as I scan and cancel the error code...the engine goes back to a normal driveable state.

Is it really busted? I hope I did not waste a good hard earned $1k to replace a perfectly good HPFP.
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      03-21-2024, 02:12 PM   #61
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I had the same symptoms. No catastrophic failures. The pump (and the car) would behave perfectly normally until the RPMs climbed during boost. Then the fuel pressure would suddenly tank and the car would go into limp mode. However, the car would return to a normal drivable state after restarting.

The new HPFP fixed the problem.

Note that the pressure should be continuously variable, depending on demand, reaching over 2000 psi in peak demand. In real time, the high pressure tracks the low pressure with a multiplication factor of approximately 10x. Both are continuously varying, and can be monitored with a live scan tool while driving. 725 psi sounds about right for idle.

It's very wise to replace the low-pressure sensor at the same time. Just be aware that early N54 engines had a different sensor type, and a different fuel line to support it. Make sure you get the latest, upgraded sensor with the upgraded fuel line if your car has the old type.

Last edited by GSB; 03-21-2024 at 02:42 PM..
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      03-27-2024, 08:36 AM   #62
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So thank you all for your responses.

I finished the HPFP and Low Pressure sensor with the new adaptor replacement yesterday. I finished in about 12 hours. I really went slow, being very careful so that I don't end up beaking more stuffs guys so cut me some slack haha. My E93 is now running perfectly...drove it like I stole it right after the install - no check engines and no malfunctions. My baby is back!

It just vibrates when slowing down from 100kph - I recently discovered bulges on my left front tires and bent right rim...but that's another story for another thread!

So here are a list of signficant challenges I'd like to share with those who are planning on doing this DIY job:

1. The 5mm hex/alen bolt hidden at the bottom of the HPFP won't be an issue if you have the long alen wrench. Use the 150mm length ball tipped 5mm hex rod so you can pivot and work even on angles.

2.Taking out the intake manifold is the real pain in the b! You have to wiggle it around to get it out. The key is pushing it towards the cabin side and pulling the intake from the center. Ask your buddy to push the plastic tube assembly at the back towards the cabin to give the intake some room when you pull it out.

If taking it out is a challenge...wait til you put it back in.....takes a lot of wiggling around...you need 4 arms and 4 hands to do this.

3. The black plastic electronic box held by to metal clips at the bottom of the intake is another challenge! The key is to insert simultaneously 2 pick tools on both the plastic silos where the metal sheets lock onto then yank the ox towards you. The pick tools will cause the locks to release.

4. The last thing I want to forewarn everyone doing this job is you have to remember the sequence of removing components and putting them back on. If you don't follow the sequence, you'll end up doing some things twice. Also, remember all the connectors you have disconnected and where they connect when you put things back togeher. Use a pick tool and be gentle not to break the clips!

That's about it guys. Thanks and chers!
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      03-27-2024, 01:37 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fullmetaljacket View Post
So thank you all for your responses.

I finished the HPFP and Low Pressure sensor with the new adaptor replacement yesterday. I finished in about 12 hours. I really went slow, being very careful so that I don't end up beaking more stuffs guys so cut me some slack haha. My E93 is now running perfectly...drove it like I stole it right after the install - no check engines and no malfunctions. My baby is back!
Woohoo! Nice work!

Quote:
Originally Posted by fullmetaljacket View Post
So here are a list of signficant challenges I'd like to share with those who are planning on doing this DIY job:

1. The 5mm hex/alen bolt hidden at the bottom of the HPFP won't be an issue if you have the long alen wrench. Use the 150mm length ball tipped 5mm hex rod so you can pivot and work even on angles.

2.Taking out the intake manifold is the real pain in the b! You have to wiggle it around to get it out. The key is pushing it towards the cabin side and pulling the intake from the center. Ask your buddy to push the plastic tube assembly at the back towards the cabin to give the intake some room when you pull it out.

If taking it out is a challenge...wait til you put it back in.....takes a lot of wiggling around...you need 4 arms and 4 hands to do this.

3. The black plastic electronic box held by to metal clips at the bottom of the intake is another challenge! The key is to insert simultaneously 2 pick tools on both the plastic silos where the metal sheets lock onto then yank the ox towards you. The pick tools will cause the locks to release.

4. The last thing I want to forewarn everyone doing this job is you have to remember the sequence of removing components and putting them back on. If you don't follow the sequence, you'll end up doing some things twice. Also, remember all the connectors you have disconnected and where they connect when you put things back togeher. Use a pick tool and be gentle not to break the clips!
Absolutely. The electrical junction box under the manifold is the one thing I detest about the manifold removal job. And yes, only an octopus can handle the extraction of that box - and the manifold.
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      04-11-2024, 06:21 PM   #64
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Idk if this is the right place to ask this, but I had my 335i start bucking and crap on the road, 1/2 light, and limp mode. Codes were 29f1 and 29f2. So I bought a new HPFP (BMW) and replaced it. Car runs the same. Or should I say barely runs. It's hard as hell to start (fires right away but won't stay running most of the time) and when it does runs terrible for about a min and then goes into limp mode but then runs smooth, revs, idles, etc. I didn't try to drive it. No CEL which I thought is weird. Still getting 29f1 code, and won't restart. If I let it cool off enough it may start and run like azz for a minute and then clear up. When it's not starting properly there is a really strong raw gas smell from the exhaust and if it does start it will belch smoke until it clears up, then runs fine, idles smooth, etc. Scanner says fuel trims are good, 02's are happy. But then it won't restart. It fires, but dies, over and over again, will not restart. WTF did I miss?
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      04-11-2024, 07:36 PM   #65
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Yeah, you'll have to take this to a new thread. A Google search of e90post reveals a bunch of threads with similar error codes and symptoms. This one could be a wild goose chase. Few of the original posters have ever returned to post their solutions. Probably drove the car off a cliff. However, some people have reported that replacing the low-pressure fuel sensor fixed these codes, others an O2 sensor, another said walnut-shell blasting fixed it. Crazy stuff. But the smell of raw gas could also be an injector stuck open. I had HORRIBLE problems with stuck injectors, along with raw gas vapor pouring from the tailpipes and misleading error codes galore.

One guy had just replaced his HPFP, but the problems continued until he took the car to the dealer, who replaced the HPFP again, along with the high and low pressure fuel sensors, and fixed the problem. Check those sensors! A bad low-pressure sensor sometimes reads a constant pressure, no matter the demand from the engine. FAIL.

Oh, and if you're running a tune, the fun goes up exponentially with reflashes and resetting adaptations and all sorts of fun stuff magically fixing it.

Last edited by GSB; 04-11-2024 at 07:53 PM..
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