[onesuperboi]

Originally Posted by quasitime

I did drive the car at roughly 30 minutes before testing. No highway driving, but the car was nice and warmed up.

Here are my numbers that failed me:

15mph 52 (max allowed) 4 (ave) 159 (Measured)
25mph 36 (max allowed) 4 (ave) 88 (Measured)

As you can see in both the tests I'm more than double the maximum. I would say that the car sat turned off maybe 5 minutes before the test. I mean... I could try it again with more e85 and leaving it idling.... you think it's worth it?

Right now I'm considering getting my stock DPs put back in...

Wow. That totally sucks. And, this is what I want to avoid.

[buster84]

Originally Posted by quasitime

I did drive the car at roughly 30 minutes before testing. No highway driving, but the car was nice and warmed up.

Here are my numbers that failed me:

15mph 52 (max allowed) 4 (ave) 159 (Measured)
25mph 36 (max allowed) 4 (ave) 88 (Measured)

As you can see in both the tests I'm more than double the maximum. I would say that the car sat turned off maybe 5 minutes before the test. I mean... I could try it again with more e85 and leaving it idling.... you think it's worth it?

Right now I'm considering getting my stock DPs put back in...

Ahh that might be it. When i did the test i drove 30mins highway. I was told to do that by my tuner for the highest chance of it passing.

I cant imagine two high flow cats working better than two stock ones... How many miles are on your car? The more miles you have is more of a reason to make sure its really nice and hot. I would say toss in 50% but then you'd have to re-drive 100+ miles for readiness. I would toss in 30% max, and drive it for 30mins then when you get to the smog place let it idle the whole time. Don't turn it off.

If it was stock you could easily get away with letting it cool. The other option is to toss the stock pipe back on, but then you'd have to pay someone unless doing it yourself. Its upto you, but if it was me i'd try it once more running it for 30mins without turning it off and do the test. Your 15mph is 3x the amount though which is pretty high so unless your pretty sure your cats were warm another test wont matter. The cats may not be working like they used to.

Just idling the car or city driving doesn't get the cats super hot. It will get them upto a hot temp, but not hot enough to be able to actually work. Im not sure how the cats work, but from what my smog shop told me is that cats only work at a certain temperature. Don't forget that just because your engine is warm doesn't mean the cats are at their "working" temp since cats requires a much higher temp work correctly.

If you believe that they were at the correct temp and you drove enough then swap the stock dp back on. These are just a few tips to try. When i smoged my mustang I failed my first test by double the required. Thats when he told me to drive it longer, so i drove it for 40mins "all highway" came back and passed with a 49 of 52 allowed. It was close, but i passed. That was on pure 91 as well. The mileage on the cats are also a factor. Its upto you how you want to try it again, but keep us update on how it goes

This is a good read on it.

http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases...1008082951.htm

[quasitime]

What would really solve a lot of my problems is the promised OBD only test that was supposed to be rolled out by now.

Honestly didn't think I'd be dealing with a sniff test this far down the year...

[Augster]

This is an interesting read.

I'm considering DP's, but can't decide if I should go catless DP's then swap the OEM's back in before the next smog test (two years from now), or bite the bullet and pay an extra $400 up front for AR Design DP's with catalytic converters and not have to deal with swapping stuff in and out again (and having to store the OEM parts during the 2-year interim time).

I'm definitely going to keep my secondary cat's in place as I do want to do what I can for cleaner air (yeah, tree hugger, I know).

Since I'm doing all the work myself, switching parts out will probably be half a day each time, so not that big a deal (hoping I don't have rusted/seized nuts/bolts to deal with at the start of each swap cycle).

[ashmostro]

Put anti seize on the bolts and that should help with the swapping in/out. The higher quality bolts that come with the ARs aren't going to rust like stock.

[buster84]

Originally Posted by quasitime

What would really solve a lot of my problems is the promised OBD only test that was supposed to be rolled out by now.

Honestly didn't think I'd be dealing with a sniff test this far down the year...

Call around, there's got to be shops that no longer do it. Even check cities far away. A 2 hours drive for smog is better than swapping pipes lol. I totally agree though, shops are still doing it for the force extra income which is crap. Hopefully by 2014 they are forced to switch over.

[quasitime]

I've done a little bit of searching. As far as I can tell shops don't even seem to be trying to switch over until next year... plus you would think there would be more word of mouth on forums if there was a shop smart enough to do this.

Anyone out there with a different experience? I'll make a new thread just in case.

[buster84]

Originally Posted by quasitime

I've done a little bit of searching. As far as I can tell shops don't even seem to be trying to switch over until next year... plus you would think there would be more word of mouth on forums if there was a shop smart enough to do this.

Anyone out there with a different experience? I'll make a new thread just in case.

Not exactly. These forums are small compared to other cars like Mustangs, Chevy, Mitsubishi ect...

I would search some other car forums in CA and see if you can find something. Those guys will be more inclined to look for this type of smog than the average bmw onwer.

This is why they wont change. I bet shops are waiting till 2014 because thats when they are forced to. They are not trying to loose income which is why shops are rebelling against it. I find it funny that CA is Cops are fast to fine you and send you to a smog shop, yet CA admits these shops are polluting as well and yet there not fined for not switching over. The Irony of living in Crappy CA.

"The shift of vehicles away from tailpipe testing
requirements will erode the ability of existing businesses to
generate future income on their investments; and could also
deteriorate our state's air quality. "

[onesuperboi]

Originally Posted by Augster

This is an interesting read.

I'm considering DP's, but can't decide if I should go catless DP's then swap the OEM's back in before the next smog test (two years from now), or bite the bullet and pay an extra $400 up front for AR Design DP's with catalytic converters and not have to deal with swapping stuff in and out again (and having to store the OEM parts during the 2-year interim time).

I'm definitely going to keep my secondary cat's in place as I do want to do what I can for cleaner air (yeah, tree hugger, I know).

Since I'm doing all the work myself, switching parts out will probably be half a day each time, so not that big a deal (hoping I don't have rusted/seized nuts/bolts to deal with at the start of each swap cycle).

Yeah, I won't be able to swap downpipes myself, let alone pay someone every two years. I heard problems with the high flow cats AR downpipes and that they don't offer much gain over stock downpipes.

I still would like to hear if/when someone passed smog with catless downpipes and a dp fix.

[Augster]

Originally Posted by onesuperboi

I heard problems with the high flow cats AR downpipes and that they don't offer much gain over stock downpipes..

Can you recall where you came across those "problems" being reported? I am assuming these problems are passing CA sniffer tests?

I know this info came via a rep at AR to a forum member, but this thread somewhere else here, specifically post #79, mentioned the catted AR DP's provided at least 10-15HP increase over stock DP's (but not knowing what other mods were done to the test vehicle). Of course, in the same message, he also stated that their catless DP's made 20-30HP over stock.

My quandary is deciding if spending ~$1,400 for catted DP's netting 10-15HP ($93-140/HP) versus ~$1,000 for catless DP's netting 20-30HP ($33-50/HP) is really worth the extra effort since the maximum HP gain would be half that over catless.

[quasitime]

Make a new thread for that one please.

[onesuperboi]

Originally Posted by Augster

Can you recall where you came across those "problems" being reported? I am assuming these problems are passing CA sniffer tests?

I know this info came via a rep at AR to a forum member, but this thread somewhere else here, specifically post #79, mentioned the catted AR DP's provided at least 10-15HP increase over stock DP's (but not knowing what other mods were done to the test vehicle). Of course, in the same message, he also stated that their catless DP's made 20-30HP over stock.

My quandary is deciding if spending ~$1,400 for catted DP's netting 10-15HP ($93-140/HP) versus ~$1,000 for catless DP's netting 20-30HP ($33-50/HP) is really worth the extra effort since the maximum HP gain would be half that over catless.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=726198
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=593649

I can't find right now the other threads, but it seems that after some time that the cats are less efficient and the cel log goes on which would not establish readiness. It's requires the dp fix...

[MandMs335Msport]

I appreciate this thread, was asking myself the same questions. Really want catless downs, but swapping for smogging sucks, easier on our old 911, single test pipe.

I think most if not all of the shops around here are still sniffing. As for running E85 you can have a "pre test" done, don't perform the real test unless you feel confident it will pass. Once the test is commenced, it is plugged in to the state. If your car fails, it is recorded. Try a pre test is my opinion.

[onesuperboi]

Originally Posted by MandMs335Msport

I appreciate this thread, was asking myself the same questions. Really want catless downs, but swapping for smogging sucks, easier on our old 911, single test pipe.

I think most if not all of the shops around here are still sniffing. As for running E85 you can have a "pre test" done, don't perform the real test unless you feel confident it will pass. Once the test is commenced, it is plugged in to the state. If your car fails, it is recorded. Try a pre test is my opinion.

That's why I'm hoping that all that have taken the test with catless downpipes would chime in. I want to see some results before swapping to catless.

We all know that the results are in catless downpipes, but it just sucks that California is so strict with pollution regulations compared to other states.

[taylors335]

Originally Posted by yarviinn

You are correct. California no longer requires a sniffer test anymore. Law passed on January 1, 2013.

http://www.smogtips.com/new-smog-law-AB-2289.cfm


It can cost anywhere from $200-$500 to "pass" nowadays.
HiYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA

Idk where you guys heard of no sniff test ! I own a mobile tool company and have a lot of smog shops on my route and all still have to use the sniffer ! its the only way to check hydrocarbons and NOX. But I might try it only 25 bucks if it fails !

[808AWD325xi]

Great thread. An industry timeline for OBD II only testing:
http://cetia.us/program_changes_star

[Augster]

Originally Posted by quasitime

Make a new thread for that one please.

Apologize for thread jacking!

[quasitime]

Originally Posted by 808AWD325xi

Great thread. An industry timeline for OBD II only testing:
http://cetia.us/program_changes_star

Nice info! That basically says Fall/TBA for actual testing stations... I'm betting late fall, early winter at the earliest.

[EuroKar]

Its funny all the assumptions everyone thinks about emission testing. All you have to do is call a smog station.

- Yes they are going to do an OBD test
- Yes they are going to stick the sniffer into your tail pipe
- They might even put your car on the lift for the inspection (which they are supposed to do anyways)
- Or you can just make a deal with your mechanic to R&R your pipes, smog your car legit and put them back in.
- Or pay someone $200-$500 depending where you live. Or register your car in a different county that is smog exempt. Yes there are plenty of counties in socal that are smog exempt.

[YMB_F80]

haha i just installed my DP's and damn you can smell it while its idling..

[SneakyDeeky]

Nice thread here. I just got my first "smog certification required" notice and plan on giving it a shot in SoCal sometime soon with all current mods (applicable mods listed below):
- AR catless downpipes (installed for the last 12,000 miles - I mention only b/c it impacts the burn-out rate of the secondary cats)
- OEM pipes and secondary cats (72,000 miles) w/ Magnaflow Performance Mufflers
- BMS V3 Downpipe Fix
- Cobb E34 tune (it's just the OTS E30 map with the fuel scalar adjusted)
- OEM LPFP w/ 72,000 miles
- N54 engine w/ 29,000 miles (here's what happened to the first one)
- The day of the test, I plan to go for a drive through the canyons on a Saturday morning for a couple of hours, then head home 30 miles south to Redondo Beach and go straight to the smog check. I'll leave the car idling while I wait.

I'll let you know how it goes.

For what it's worth, I've been running E30 for the last several months and all was good at first. Then I experimented with a few different map setups on my Cobb by adjusting the fuel scalars (1 and 2) for up to E47, but my LPFP took exception and started acting up. Even though I've gone all the way back down to E30 blend on an E34 map to help with fuel scalars, it's still dipping to 50psi (s/b 70-75) at WOT.

I share this only because it's just a matter of time before I pull the trigger and install an additional inline Walbro pump. Now I'm thinking that if I don't pass, I'll modify the LPFP and go re-test with 100% E85.

[onesuperboi]

Originally Posted by SneakyDeeky

Nice thread here. I just got my first "smog certification required" notice and plan on giving it a shot in SoCal sometime soon with all current mods (applicable mods listed below):
- AR catless downpipes (installed for the last 12,000 miles - I mention only b/c it impacts the burn-out rate of the secondary cats)
- OEM pipes and secondary cats (72,000 miles) w/ Magnaflow Performance Mufflers
- BMS V3 Downpipe Fix
- Cobb E34 tune (it's just the OTS E30 map with the fuel scalar adjusted)
- OEM LPFP w/ 72,000 miles
- N54 engine w/ 29,000 miles (here's what happened to the first one)
- The day of the test, I plan to go for a drive through the canyons on a Saturday morning for a couple of hours, then head home 30 miles south to Redondo Beach and go straight to the smog check. I'll leave the car idling while I wait.

I'll let you know how it goes.

For what it's worth, I've been running E30 for the last several months and all was good at first. Then I experimented with a few different map setups on my Cobb by adjusting the fuel scalars (1 and 2) for up to E47, but my LPFP took exception and started acting up. Even though I've gone all the way back down to E30 blend on an E34 map to help with fuel scalars, it's still dipping to 50psi (s/b 70-75) at WOT.

I share this only because it's just a matter of time before I pull the trigger and install an additional inline Walbro pump. Now I'm thinking that if I don't pass, I'll modify the LPFP and go re-test with 100% E85.

Thanks.

When are you planning to smog?