[YoungBlood]

Yup, got a whole set of injectors (used) coming my way, so I plan on pulling the plugs after it's sat, and then doing the test with the injectors out as well

[3.1L Z]

One thing to consider, the flexible seal at injector end expands to create a tight fit. When installing new injectors, it's to be installed within 5 minutes cause once you remove the cap that seal expands. So, it stands to reason you take all those injectors out you could have a difficult time getting them back in since the seal will start expanding. Now, I don't know if the OP of the video had any issue but those seals are design to expand and not be uncompressed for any amount of time.

[YoungBlood]

Good to know, I did pop out my injectors today, and discovered they are index 11's... And no wet plugs after sitting. Thinking it might be build up on my valves, as the rough idle goes away as soon as it drops to 600.. Gonna have to do some logs, and a walnut blast and see what it does

[3.1L Z]

I still think it's an injector, but could be the crankshaft position sensor on the way out.

[jmb85]

Originally Posted by YoungBlood

Good to know, I did pop out my injectors today, and discovered they are index 11's... And no wet plugs after sitting. Thinking it might be build up on my valves, as the rough idle goes away as soon as it drops to 600.. Gonna have to do some logs, and a walnut blast and see what it does

Did you end up figuring it out?

[GEOS07335i]

Originally Posted by ********

The following must be logged

HPFP
LPFP
Fuel Mode

Banks 1 and 2 of the following must also be logged

LTFT
STFT
AFR

Start ups, idling, regular driving, and WOT pull events. Flash tuning only.

Thanks but we also need to know what values would indicate that it's a leaky fuel injector? What are we looking once we have the logs?

STFT

[Ballistic]

Most people recommend to let it sit over night and then check for wet plugs or stumble on start.
I never experienced this when i had bad injectors. If you ask me then this is not the right way to test as fuel pressure drops to 0 after longer time and no leaking occurs so no plugs are wet.

The best test is to run the car to operating temperature, wait 20/30min and then start it to see if it stumbles. Or check the plugs if the are wet. If this is the case, the injectors are bad.
Replace plugs and coils first as they are cheap.

Also; Never buy 2nd hand/refurbished injectors.

[GEOS07335i]

Originally Posted by YoungBlood

Yup, got a whole set of injectors (used) coming my way, so I plan on pulling the plugs after it's sat, and then doing the test with the injectors out as well

I'm looking to buy a set of injectors. Can I ask what index did you buy and where you found used ones? I'm assuming the used ones wont come with the compression fitting on top so the seal will probably already be expanded. Most people say you would need to replace the seals and couplers. But I've had used ones before with out the seal already expanded and had no issues with leaks.

INDEX 11 are good ones. I believe the current INDEX is at 13. Index 9's are supposed to be the worst. These are the ones I have and trying to get rid of.

[dreamliner12]

hey guys, I'm also wondering what numbers specifically I should look for when taking a log using my MHD for this issue?

I have a car with persistent P29e0 and P29e1 codes, have replaced the front 02's already, did not fix the problem.

I would rather actually diagnose that I need injectors, even better would be which injector, rather than just throw parts at the car/replace all the injectors without being sure. I find a lot of info online about how to replace the injectors but don't see any real numbers I should be looking for or any specific way to identify STFT, LTFT etc to know whether it's actually my injectors or not.

I am running an 08 335xi with DCI, catless downpipes and race exhaust, and MHD stage 2. Appreciate any help!

Post a log in the MHD thread...you'll get learned as feedback rolls in.