[RnmEvo9]

Now I don't feel so bad paying an extra 60 bucks for proper fitment with the psp outlets.

[Ozzie335i]

There really is no need for an o-ring that can handle that much heat, up to 1200 degrees. The outlet is not connected on the exhaust side of the turbo, where the real heat is. Understood that some heat will transfer, but if it is enough to worry about melting the o-ring, no IC would be capable of dropping the temp down to the levels required on the incoming air. As mifesto mentioned, a 400 degree one should be sufficient.

[mifesto]

I haven't torn apart my car until I know the o-ring will work. no I have not tried OEM o-ring (since my car isn't apart yet). so far I've been unsuccessful in sourcing a local vendor with o-ring at appropriate temperate range.

[JC888]

Looks like I have the same issue, had my installer install these outlets and my PS2. During our test drive, we found a boost leak and this awful sound. We checked all the basic sources but it wasn't until he saw this thread that we knew what the problem was. Here is an example of the sound I was getting under boost. Now i have to wait for a respond from VRSF/N54tuning and pay my installer to re-do the work.

https://youtu.be/YfynmEBS2DQ

PM Tiago & Mike@N54tunning to hopefully get my replacement expedited.

[philtr]

I installed these outlets recently and I'll be blunt. The design of these at the compressor housing is bad... bad for both flow and sealing. The o-ring face seal design sucks (or should I say blows like a boost leak ) compared to the factory radial o-ring seal and is much harder to install correctly and more prone to shifting and losing seal down the road.

On top of that this face seal design creates a hard 90 degree step in the compressor housing going from about 1" diameter to around 1.5" which is terrible for flow. I actually machined some aluminum "nozzles" that fit into the compressor housing step in an attempt to create a smoother transition to the larger outlet inner diameter.

[Tiago@VRSF]

Originally Posted by jcy335xi

Looks like I have the same issue, had my installer install these outlets and my PS2. During our test drive, we found a boost leak and this awful sound. We checked all the basic sources but it wasn't until he saw this thread that we knew what the problem was. Here is an example of the sound I was getting under boost. Now i have to wait for a respond from VRSF/N54tuning and pay my installer to re-do the work.

https://youtu.be/YfynmEBS2DQ

PM Tiago & Mike@N54tunning to hopefully get my replacement expedited.

I'm incredibly sorry for the inconvenience, the o-rings included in the original batch were .2mm thicker than intended. There are a few simple ways to correct the issue and we've corrected the design on all current and future versions. If your installer neglected to install the o-rings, a boost leak is going to be a major issue. Either way, please contact us and we'll be more than happy to help!

Originally Posted by philtr

I installed these outlets recently and I'll be blunt. The design of these at the compressor housing is bad... bad for both flow and sealing.

The VRSF outlets outflow the OEM by a significant margin in every aspect. The OEM outlets pancake down to less than .9" at the collector whereas the VRSF offer a 75% diameter increase with 2" turbo outlets that merge into a 2.5" outlet that suits any and EVERY intercooler. Please keep in mind that our outlets will fit any intercooler that bolts up to the OEM outlet.

Originally Posted by philtr

The o-ring face seal design sucks (or should I say blows like a boost leak ) compared to the factory radial o-ring seal and is much harder to install correctly and more prone to shifting and losing seal down the road.

I think you're referencing the N55 outlet which is a completely different product. In either case our outlets accommodate both the OEM as well as our available o-rings

Originally Posted by philtr

On top of that this face seal design creates a hard 90 degree step in the compressor housing going from about 1" diameter to around 1.5" which is terrible for flow. I actually machined some aluminum "nozzles" that fit into the compressor housing step in an attempt to create a smoother transition to the larger outlet inner diameter.

After testing a few configurations, we didn't notice a performance loss or gain with a tapered flange in comparison to the current flange which not only outflows the OEM outlet but better suits every upgraded turbo option.

Please remember that these are pressurized applications and the increase in overall air flow significantly outweighs smaller diameter tubing

[philtr]

Originally Posted by Tiago@VRSF

I think you're referencing the N55 outlet which is a completely different product. In either case our outlets accommodate both the OEM as well as our available o-rings

After testing a few configurations, we didn't notice a performance loss or gain with a tapered flange in comparison to the current flange which not only outflows the OEM outlet but better suits every upgraded turbo option.

Please remember that these are pressurized applications and the increase in overall air flow significantly outweighs smaller diameter tubing

I'm definitely referencing the N54 outlets which I purchased and recently installed on an N54. My complaint isn't the o-ring size but the design of the seal type. The OEM outlets use a radial seal design and the VRSF's use a face seal design without any kind of boss to center the outlet to the compressor housing. Google "o ring radial seal" and look at o-ring design guides for visuals if this is unclear. The face seal without centering boss is harder to install correctly and runs a higher risk of slipping out of position and leaking in the future. The OEM radial seal is much more fool proof in this application.

Regarding flow, claiming that an abrupt 1" to 1.5" 90 degree transition flows the same as a smooth and gradual transition contradicts everything I know about fluid flow and suggests airplanes should be shaped like flights of stairs or downpipes should have square 90 degree transitions in diameter. If you did test this can you post dyno charts and specifics about the geometries tested?

Also, flow testing numbers from OEM and aftermarket outlets tells a very small part of the story and only supports the obvious that larger tubing flows more. To be more accurate you would flow test the outlet with compressor housing. If you did this my money is on seeing higher flow by adding a transitional nozzle where the step in the compressor is.

Anyway, not trying to attack your product by any means and think it's hard to beat for the price, just offering some observations from an engineer that's been modding cars for decades and hoping maybe someday you'll come out with a version 2 that's even better

[Tiago@VRSF]

Originally Posted by philtr

I'm definitely referencing the N54 outlets which I purchased and recently installed on an N54. My complaint isn't the o-ring size but the design of the seal type. The OEM outlets use a radial seal design and the VRSF's use a face seal design without any kind of boss to center the outlet to the compressor housing.

I apologize, I misunderstood your original statement. I completely agree that a tapered connection will create less turbulence but the main issue with creating a tapered inlet with a radial seal is the fact that we'd need to design a flange to match 20 different compressor housings. Unfortunately every turbo manufacturer uses different inner diameter compressor housing outlets which is why we came up with a one size fits all solution.

In either case I'll take a look at our shop car's aftermarket turbo setup and compare them with a few of our client's ID to see if we can improve upon the design

[Rob@RBTurbo]

Originally Posted by philtr

I'm definitely referencing the N54 outlets which I purchased and recently installed on an N54. My complaint isn't the o-ring size but the design of the seal type. The OEM outlets use a radial seal design and the VRSF's use a face seal design without any kind of boss to center the outlet to the compressor housing. Google "o ring radial seal" and look at o-ring design guides for visuals if this is unclear. The face seal without centering boss is harder to install correctly and runs a higher risk of slipping out of position and leaking in the future. The OEM radial seal is much more fool proof in this application.

Regarding flow, claiming that an abrupt 1" to 1.5" 90 degree transition flows the same as a smooth and gradual transition contradicts everything I know about fluid flow and suggests airplanes should be shaped like flights of stairs or downpipes should have square 90 degree transitions in diameter. If you did test this can you post dyno charts and specifics about the geometries tested?

Also, flow testing numbers from OEM and aftermarket outlets tells a very small part of the story and only supports the obvious that larger tubing flows more. To be more accurate you would flow test the outlet with compressor housing. If you did this my money is on seeing higher flow by adding a transitional nozzle where the step in the compressor is.

Anyway, not trying to attack your product by any means and think it's hard to beat for the price, just offering some observations from an engineer that's been modding cars for decades and hoping maybe someday you'll come out with a version 2 that's even better

We have been recommending this product since intro to those it applies to (ie. currently LHD 335), so we feel it is a good buy for those looking for better efficiency especially those in the higher power brackets (ie. 550+whp). Seems to be the best buy all in all, IMHO.

But that aside you sir have knocked it out of the park with this reply, kudos to you for sharing your insight. Not many around here these days have the knowledge that you clearly do, and the community needs more like yourself to shed light on these sorts of things to educate others and to grow the platform. Keep up the good work.

Rob

[philtr]

Originally Posted by Tiago@VRSF

I apologize, I misunderstood your original statement. I completely agree that a tapered connection will create less turbulence but the main issue with creating a tapered inlet with a radial seal is the fact that we'd need to design a flange to match 20 different compressor housings. Unfortunately every turbo manufacturer uses different inner diameter compressor housing outlets which is why we came up with a one size fits all solution.

In either case I'll take a look at our shop car's aftermarket turbo setup and compare them with a few of our client's ID to see if we can improve upon the design

No problem Appreciate your openness to public feedback and understand your position of wanting the most universal solution for the outlet flange. I may be in the minority for wanting upgraded outlets for stock frame compressor housings and the negatives I pointed out of course don't apply to larger housings that don't have the step for stock outlets.

[philtr]

Originally Posted by Rob@RBTurbo

We have been recommending this product since intro to those it applies to (ie. currently LHD 335), so we feel it is a good buy for those looking for better efficiency especially those in the higher power brackets (ie. 550+whp). Seems to be the best buy all in all, IMHO.

But that aside you sir have knocked it out of the park with this reply, kudos to you for sharing your insight. Not many around here these days have the knowledge that you clearly do, and the community needs more like yourself to shed light on these sorts of things to educate others and to grow the platform. Keep up the good work.

Rob

Thank you Rob! Those comments coming from someone with your experience and involvement with this platform really mean a lot to me.

Phil

[JC888]

Originally Posted by Tiago@VRSF

I'm incredibly sorry for the inconvenience, the o-rings included in the original batch were .2mm thicker than intended. There are a few simple ways to correct the issue and we've corrected the design on all current and future versions. If your installer neglected to install the o-rings, a boost leak is going to be a major issue. Either way, please contact us and we'll be more than happy to help!

Could you respond to my email(s) or PM? Better yet, just send out the replacement orings as you've stated in this thread? I've been more than patient waiting for the replacement but "expediting"/"rectifying this issue" shouldn't require us to further explain and troubleshoot the problem, especially when you have all the order information on your end and should know who are affected. In my case, mine were installed and the boost leak/noise was realized after, most likely due to the orings being pitched. I'm not going to pay my installer to take them off and heat the orings up, re-install and pray that it fixes the issue. I don't even care if I have to pay you for replacements, I just want my problem fixed.

[DerekGates]

Any update here? I am waiting to install my outlets but haven't heard any word on the correct o-rings to use. Has anyone had luck installing these outlets? Any o-rings on the market that will fit?

Tiago@VRSF have you had a chance to find any suitable o-rings?

[JC888]

Tiago sent out the o-rings after several back and forth emails. I got them installed and it resolved my issue. Needless to say, this o-ring issue caused me hours of troubleshooting and an extra $400 for re-installation fee.

Here is the old o-ring on the left and new on the right.

[DerekGates]

Originally Posted by jcy335xi

Tiago sent out the o-rings after several back and forth emails. I got them installed and it resolved my issue. Needless to say, this o-ring issue caused me hours of troubleshooting and an extra $400 for re-installation fee.

Here is the old o-ring on the left and new on the right.

Freaking awesome. I will resort to emailing him, sent a few PMs to no avail. Super excited to get them installed!

[Supra2k6]

Originally Posted by jcy335xi

Tiago sent out the o-rings after several back and forth emails. I got them installed and it resolved my issue. Needless to say, this o-ring issue caused me hours of troubleshooting and an extra $400 for re-installation fee.

Here is the old o-ring on the left and new on the right.

Do you mind reposting the sound of the leak your video seems to be down.

I was promised new orings by Tiago@VRSF and got a tracking number but they never got shipped.

Now that it's getting warmer and i'm taking the car out more i hear a whoosh noise on the rear turbo area when boosting and i'm going to guess it's the O-ring

[Tiago@VRSF]

Thanks again for your patience folks. If anyone hasn't received their replacement o-rings, please forward over your order number via PM so we can get you squared away

[JC888]

Originally Posted by Supra2k6

Do you mind reposting the sound of the leak your video seems to be down.

I was promised new orings by Tiago@VRSF and got a tracking number but they never got shipped.

Now that it's getting warmer and i'm taking the car out more i hear a whoosh noise on the rear turbo area when boosting and i'm going to guess it's the O-ring

I removed the old video but I've re-uploaded it back to YT. Here you go:

https://youtu.be/KntgciBYBW8

[Supra2k6]

Originally Posted by jcy335xi

I removed the old video but I've re-uploaded it back to YT. Here you go:

https://youtu.be/KntgciBYBW8

LOL that is the exact noise my car makes (no codes) either i thought i was a pcv valve going bad it drove fine after install and then the noise came a few weeks later didn't (it's winter so i hardly drive the car)

Thank you anybody had any luck getting o-rings from vrsf? still waiting on mine for a few months now. Tiago@VRSF

[JC888]

Originally Posted by Supra2k6

LOL that is the exact noise my car makes (no codes) either i thought i was a pcv valve going bad it drove fine after install and then the noise came a few weeks later didn't (it's winter so i hardly drive the car)

Thank you anybody had any luck getting o-rings from vrsf? still waiting on mine for a few months now. Tiago@VRSF

I went through the whole works trying to figure out where the noise was coming from. it wasn't until I had a passenger hanging out the window were we able to figure out it was coming from the outlets. I admit I was pretty firm with Tiago in order to get the o rings sent out, once he agreed, it arrived within a week so I'm not sure why it's been a few months for you? That would drive me nuts.

[DerekGates]

Originally Posted by Supra2k6

...

Thank you anybody had any luck getting o-rings from vrsf? still waiting on mine for a few months now. Tiago@VRSF

I have not been able to get any response from Tiago@VRSF with multiple PMs. Pretty upset I can't install the product I purchased from VRSF...

[Supra2k6]

Originally Posted by DerekGates

I have not been able to get any response from Tiago@VRSF with multiple PMs. Pretty upset I can't install the product I purchased from VRSF...

yeah he asked me for my order number then send me a tracking number that never worked. It's starting to get warm i pmed him again and he asked me for the order number AGAIN.

I quoted our last convo with my order number from months ago to him two weeks ago haven't heard back, to be fair i should email or call but car is not going anywhere anytime soon so hopefully he sees this thread soon Tiago@VRSF

and yeah i wouldn't start without the o-rings in hand this is a install you do not want to do twice almost as bad as inlets.