[tofu-]

does nanoscrub strip wax and/or sealants?

both fine and regular versions of the nanoscrub

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by newtobimmer23

I recently got my car detailed by a reputable detail center and I'm not sure what to make of it. The paint is exceptionally smooth and great shine. In indirect sunlight, the car looks great and almost brand new.

Sitting in the garage under led and halogen lights, the car looks stunning. However, in direct sunlight, it seems there is some haze going on or the sun hitting the panels and just a weird effect going on that wasn't there before.

Not sure if it is too much product and after a hand wash, it'll be fine or there is damage done. What can it possibly be and what can I do to remedy it? Thanks.

Most likely it's a bugger trail from the detailer polishing the surface. BMW's, especially darker colors, seem to be a bit more prone to this showing up. It's generally fixed by using another finer combination of polish and pad. I would first wash with the Chemical Guys Citrus Wash to remove the protection on the surface. Assuming it's very faint I would most likely use the Menzerna Micro Polish SF 4500 (PO85RD) and the Lake Country Black Finishing Pad (blue or crimson pads works too). This usually helps clear up a light haze.

Afterward you'll want to apply a sealant or wax to protect the finish again. Let me know if you have any other questions and I'll be happy to help.

Greg @ DI

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by nation

could you suggest a wax for sparkling graphite? im currently using meg #16 wax.
it worked great on the sti but i think for the money theres got to be something that will really make the paint look deep.

Thank you for the question I'd be happy to help. First off giving the paint a quick polish could be the biggest help. Polishes help remove oxidation, light swirls, etc. so you get that deep shine back. Even a brand new vehicle can usually benefit from a very light polishing. Therefore depending on the age and condition of the paint you may want to start there.

If you polish or don't a wax certainly can help enhance the appearance. Two of my top choices would be the Chemical Guys 50/50 Limited Series Concours Paste Wax Version 2 and the Dodo Juice Rainforest Rub Soft Wax. Both look exceptional and really make the flake pop! If you want another choice that is more cost effective but still great the Chemical Guys XXX Hard Core Paste Wax is good deal!

Don't forget we have FREE S/H through 7/4 with the code July4Ship12, no min spend. Let me know if you need a polish recommendation and if so let me know more about your vehicle. Take care!

Greg @ DI

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by nitehawk

Hi Greg,

Quick question. How do you typically recommend applying a sealant: by hand or with a PC? I have both the DI Yellow Foam Applicator Pads for hand application and the 5.5" Blue Fine Finishing Pads to use with the PC. The sealant I will use is Blackfire Wet Diamond.

Is there any need to apply pressure or is the natural movement of my hands adequate?

In my opinion there is very little difference between the application methods. In general a hand application gets in the corners better, while a buffer spreads it thinner and more evenly. Polishes are really where a buffer has a huge advantage and becomes more critical. If I use a buffer to apply a sealant I use a blue pad, if done by hand virtually any soft applicator works just make sure it is CLEAN! Sealants are simply spread on the surface they do not need to be worked in to the surface like a polish, so light pressure is plenty. Our (http://www.detailedimage.com/Auto-De...uide/Sealants/) sealant section of our detailing guide may be helpful as well. Keep me posted if you have additional questions and I hope you enjoy the BFWD!

Greg @ DI

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by Wes.

Hi Greg,

Sorry if this has been covered, but I've been having a hard time with my exhaust tips. There is a ton of carbon that has been a pita to remove. I've used the Magic Eraser (both normal and extra strength) with decent results, but it is still not good enough for me. Would 0000 steel wool be a better option? Is there any sort or liquid/paste that you would recommend for me to use to help break down the carbon before I start scrubbing with the steel wool?

Thanks,
Wes

Wes,

Steel wool can work pretty effectively. I'm not a huge fan of it though because if you use it repeatedly I fear it could add some faint scratches or potentially harm the finish. So if you use it try to do so sparingly just to be extra safe. You may also want to try a cleaner on it like the CarPro Iron X Iron Remover, which I've been using on the paint, wheels, etc. My other go to product is a quality metal polish like the P21S Finish Restorer. If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask!

Greg @ DI

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by tofu-

does nanoscrub strip wax and/or sealants?

both fine and regular versions of the nanoscrub

They are not designed to strip off all protection but yes it will remove some of the protection from the surface. The Chemical Guys Citrus Wash or something similar would be wise to wash with before hand so you remove the protection before using the NanoSkin AutoScrub Fine Foam Pad. This is the most effective way to use the product and get maximum cleaning power. Hope this info helps!

Greg @ DI

[mob17]

Greg,

I wish you shipped to the UK

[tofu-]

thanks greg.

is prepsol safe to use on a vehicle 3-4 times a year prior to waxing or post polishing?

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by mob17

Greg,

I wish you shipped to the UK

Sorry about that, I sincerely wish we did too. We had so many problems with international shipments it was just too time consuming to continue on with. Hopefully we'll have it back at some point, but it will not be in the near future.

Greg

Originally Posted by tofu-

thanks greg.

is prepsol safe to use on a vehicle 3-4 times a year prior to waxing or post polishing?

Sorry I'm not sure what you mean by prepsol? Once I have that info I'll try to get back to you.

Greg

[MxRacerCam]

Hey Greg,

What do you recommend for an inexpensive orbital? I plan on using a clay bar on my Barbara Red 335i to get rid of the bugs and contaminants, but after I do that, I'll want to use a light cleaner wax and a good sealer wax, and feel like an inexpensive orbital might make my life a lot easier. It's something I'll use once every 6-8 weeks just for upkeep on the one car. I'm not looking to recondition the paint or do anything particularly heavy though.

Thanks for your help!

-Dave

[BMW335icoupe]

Originally Posted by MxRacerCam

Hey Greg,

What do you recommend for an inexpensive orbital? I plan on using a clay bar on my Barbara Red 335i to get rid of the bugs and contaminants, but after I do that, I'll want to use a light cleaner wax and a good sealer wax, and feel like an inexpensive orbital might make my life a lot easier. It's something I'll use once every 6-8 weeks just for upkeep on the one car. I'm not looking to recondition the paint or do anything particularly heavy though.

Thanks for your help!

-Dave

Griots Garage.

[2ndname]

I have a question o' wise one.

Today I've done the following:
1. Washed the car
2. Clayed the car
3. Used Menzerna's SIP PO83 with a cutting pad
4. Used Klasse's AIO with a polishing pad
5. Used 1 coat of Klasse's High Gloss with a finishing pad

Now, in about 2-3 weeks, I will be washing my car again (Yes, black car - PITA), what are the suggested steps? Do I do all of the steps above all over again? I want to rebuild my paint due to neglect from the previous owner so I want to make sure that I'm doing it right. Thanks in advance!

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by MxRacerCam

Hey Greg,

What do you recommend for an inexpensive orbital? I plan on using a clay bar on my Barbara Red 335i to get rid of the bugs and contaminants, but after I do that, I'll want to use a light cleaner wax and a good sealer wax, and feel like an inexpensive orbital might make my life a lot easier. It's something I'll use once every 6-8 weeks just for upkeep on the one car. I'm not looking to recondition the paint or do anything particularly heavy though.

Thanks for your help!

-Dave

Dave,

Unfortunately the very inexpensive units are usually not worth it because they don't have enough power to work in a polish and the pad/bonnets are not great for the paint. For a high quality buffer that is reasonably affordable the Porter Cable 7424 XP is a great choice, in a kit like this one DI Packages Porter Cable 7424XP 4" Basic Kit.

If you have the time for a two step process I'd highly recommend getting a polish and sealant instead of a cleaner wax and a sealer wax, which would be somewhat redundant. By using a light polish like the Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish M205 you can clean the surface and remove some of the ultra fine swirls and oxidation. I would apply this with at least two white pads and then pick up one blue pad for the sealant. My favorite sealant is the Blackfire Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection but the Rejex Sealant will also work great. This combo should produce an incredible shine and protect the surface for months. Let me know if you have any other questions and I'll be happy to help.

Greg @ DI

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by BMW335icoupe

Griots Garage.

The Griot's Garage Random Orbital Polisher is a great choice as well for just a bit more money than the PC.

Greg @ DI

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by 2ndname

I have a question o' wise one.

Today I've done the following:
1. Washed the car
2. Clayed the car
3. Used Menzerna's SIP PO83 with a cutting pad
4. Used Klasse's AIO with a polishing pad
5. Used 1 coat of Klasse's High Gloss with a finishing pad

Now, in about 2-3 weeks, I will be washing my car again (Yes, black car - PITA), what are the suggested steps? Do I do all of the steps above all over again? I want to rebuild my paint due to neglect from the previous owner so I want to make sure that I'm doing it right. Thanks in advance!

Glad to hear the detailing went well! In 2 - 3 weeks you'll have plenty of protection left on the surface so you don't have to do anything. Obviously a nice wash will help clean the surface and you can add that freshly detailed appearance with a quick coat of wax or a spray on product. The Chemical Guys HYBRID V7 - Optical Select High Gloss Spray Sealant is very popular for this task as it adds protection and a noticeable shine. With about 15 - 20 minutes the whole car should look like it was freshly detailed. Let me know if you have any other questions and I'll be happy to help.

Greg @ DI

[MxRacerCam]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

Dave,

Unfortunately the very inexpensive units are usually not worth it because they don't have enough power to work in a polish and the pad/bonnets are not great for the paint. For a high quality buffer that is reasonably affordable the Porter Cable 7424 XP is a great choice, in a kit like this one DI Packages Porter Cable 7424XP 4" Basic Kit.

If you have the time for a two step process I'd highly recommend getting a polish and sealant instead of a cleaner wax and a sealer wax, which would be somewhat redundant. By using a light polish like the Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish M205 you can clean the surface and remove some of the ultra fine swirls and oxidation. I would apply this with at least two white pads and then pick up one blue pad for the sealant. My favorite sealant is the Blackfire Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection but the Rejex Sealant will also work great. This combo should produce an incredible shine and protect the surface for months. Let me know if you have any other questions and I'll be happy to help.

Greg @ DI

Greg, thanks for the reply. I ended up getting the PC 7424XP and the Meguiars Microfiber kit. I am really impressed with how well this kit worked!

[deng]

The interior plastics/vinyl and leather is showing its age. What do you recommend I use to clean he polish these materials? I need a really good professional cleaner for my beige colored plastic and vinyl trims.

[mia335i]

What's your thought of Adams porter cable7424xp kit with swirl
Removal, polish and wax. (the 3 step kit ) comes with clay too. My car is a 09 jet black 335 with some swirls. Thanks

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by MxRacerCam

Greg, thanks for the reply. I ended up getting the PC 7424XP and the Meguiars Microfiber kit. I am really impressed with how well this kit worked!

Great selection and I'm thrilled to hear the DI Packages Porter Cable 7424XP & Meguiar's DA Microfiber Correction Kit worked out so well for you. Don't hesitate to ask any questions or check out our Ask a Pro Blog which has four different articles on this topic!

Greg @ DI

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by deng

The interior plastics/vinyl and leather is showing its age. What do you recommend I use to clean he polish these materials? I need a really good professional cleaner for my beige colored plastic and vinyl trims.

For leather, leatherette, vinyl and porous plastic surfaces I like to use the Leatherique Rejuvenator. This product is most known for treating seats but I've used it on the dashboard, doors, etc. It helps those surface not look and feel so dry. It will also simultaneously clean the surface and help the surface look more like new again. I would apply it with a terry cloth applicator or soft cloth. Let it sit for at least 15+ minutes and up to a few hours and then re-wipe the area with a clean microfiber towel. Sometimes if the towel is just ever so slightly damp it's a big help removing any excess product and contaminants on the surface.

If you have hard plastic surfaces or coated surfaces you can clean and protect them with the Einszett 1Z Cockpit Premium. This is a great interior cleaner and protectant I use all over.

Don't forget to save 10% off with the e90post coupon code. I hope this info was helpful!

Greg @ DI

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by mia335i

What's your thought of Adams porter cable7424xp kit with swirl
Removal, polish and wax. (the 3 step kit ) comes with clay too. My car is a 09 jet black 335 with some swirls. Thanks

The Porter Cable 7424XP Random Orbital Buffer is a great tool I use and highly recommend to others. Clay is pretty generic so I assume that should work fine. As for the Adam's polishes I honestly can't say because I haven't used them. My concern is I don't see/hear of a lot of pro's and elite detailers I know using those polishes. My guess is that a combination like the Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish M205 and Meguiar's Ultra-Cut Compound M105 performs better and may be more cost effective too. Sorry I don't have more specifics for you!

If interested in learning more about the M105 and M205 combo check out these articles:
http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...ars-m105-m205/
http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...-cut-compound/
http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...-cable-7424xp/

We have a nice package deal here DI Packages PC 7424XP with M105, M205 and 5.5" pads or the very cost effective DI Packages Porter Cable 7424XP, Meguiar's Polishes and Hydro Pads Basic Kit. We also have a good clay bar and lube it here DI Packages DI Gentle Fine Grade Clay Bar 100g & Clay Lube. Lastly we offer free shipping on all orders over $149 with the coupon code DIFREE.

I hope this info helps!

Greg @ DI

[taibanl]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

I understand so many choices can make it hard. In general I would suggest you pick up the DI Packages Porter Cable 7424XP 5.5" Starter Kit, and you can select any combination of pads you prefer by adding a comment in the comment field.

As for products if you just want to use a very light polish try the Menzerna Super Finish Polish SF 4000 (PO106FA Nano Polish) is a great choice applied with at least two white pads. This will help safely remove very fine imperfections, oxidation, etc. and restore a great shine. Afterward you can protect the surface and enhance the shine with a quality sealant. The Menzerna Power Lock Polymer Sealant is one of my favorite choices and can be applied with the blue pad.

I hand remove both of these products with clean DI Microfiber All Purpose Towel, probably at least 2 - 3 to remove the polish and 1 - 2 for the sealant. Let me know if you have any other questions and I'll be happy to help.

Greg @ DI

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

Dave,

Unfortunately the very inexpensive units are usually not worth it because they don't have enough power to work in a polish and the pad/bonnets are not great for the paint. For a high quality buffer that is reasonably affordable the Porter Cable 7424 XP is a great choice, in a kit like this one DI Packages Porter Cable 7424XP 4" Basic Kit.

If you have the time for a two step process I'd highly recommend getting a polish and sealant instead of a cleaner wax and a sealer wax, which would be somewhat redundant. By using a light polish like the Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish M205 you can clean the surface and remove some of the ultra fine swirls and oxidation. I would apply this with at least two white pads and then pick up one blue pad for the sealant. My favorite sealant is the Blackfire Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection but the Rejex Sealant will also work great. This combo should produce an incredible shine and protect the surface for months. Let me know if you have any other questions and I'll be happy to help.

Greg @ DI

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

Glad to hear the detailing went well! In 2 - 3 weeks you'll have plenty of protection left on the surface so you don't have to do anything. Obviously a nice wash will help clean the surface and you can add that freshly detailed appearance with a quick coat of wax or a spray on product. The Chemical Guys HYBRID V7 - Optical Select High Gloss Spray Sealant is very popular for this task as it adds protection and a noticeable shine. With about 15 - 20 minutes the whole car should look like it was freshly detailed. Let me know if you have any other questions and I'll be happy to help.

Greg @ DI

Greg, I bought (from you) and had professionally applied (ImageAutoNY in Syracuse - did a great job) the Opti Coat based on another thread....from reading it seems like the sealant recommendations are all over the map? Can you briefly elaborate?