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      11-14-2018, 12:09 PM   #1
Ruedaloca
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E90 isn't starting, NO iginition either!

Hello guys,
I have a 06 330i, that passed for around 1 month without being running or started just fully parked due a radiator failure (nothing electrical) now the radiator was fixed and it is not starting, the symptoms are:

1) key is recognized by proximity. The key figure appears in the dash.
2) Key fob is inserted but it's not unlocking the steering wheel.
3) By presssing the start button ( no brake pedal pushed), there are any other light than the ABS system ( there is a problem with one damaged retainer before this, but it never affected), no Engine, no DTC, no ABS, etc
4)No clicks, no cranck at all.
5) There is power in the inside lamps, radio, headlamps.
6) There is NO power in the A/C controller at all.

Actions done ( based on the threads research related to starting issues):

a) Tested the battery, and it is OK, fully recharged it twice at 12.6V and the same symptoms.
b) Checked voltage after BST device (at the + connector), and it is passing the 12V.
c) For IBS (at the Neg pole), disconnected both, blue small connector and the power to POS, and nothing happened.
d) Tried to start with jumper device, but nothing happened also.


Can somebody give me a clue what is going on with it ? Nothing electrical was touched during fixing the radiator.
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      11-14-2018, 12:53 PM   #2
ctuna
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sounds like you might have the ELV problem
that the 06 model has.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...&highlight=elv

If you leave these cars set you should put them on a battery tender
or disconnect the battery.
They also don't respond well to jumping they need a fully charged
and healthy battery.

Also battery back up when changing battery's can blow the Instrument
cluster/obd fuse.

If you work on them it will deplete the battery .
If you run the purge procedure when changing the radiator
and replacing the fluid it will deplete the battery.

You need diagnostics to go further with this car.
Suggest bimmergeeks.net cable and downloads.


https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/at...9&d=1539905743

diagnostic manual ista/inpa
https://bimmerprofs.com/diagnostics-inpa-part-1/
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...xo19teM9vkTF-C
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...7x8H3pN8h1fMuF
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-P-actually-do

electical e90 pdf
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...,d.cGU&cad=rja
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...85464276,d.cGU
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...85464276,d.cGU

1) key is recognized by proximity. The key figure appears in the dash.
Usually if you have comfort access you only get a key signal
on the instrument cluster when the fob battery is low.
It should still start the car when in the slot though.

If you live in a place where there is a lot of corrosion due to high humidity or road salts the ground strap from the engine to chassis
can cause problems.

Last edited by ctuna; 11-14-2018 at 01:11 PM..
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      11-14-2018, 02:24 PM   #3
Ruedaloca
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctuna View Post
sounds like you might have the ELV problem
that the 06 model has.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...&highlight=elv

If you leave these cars set you should put them on a battery tender
or disconnect the battery.
They also don't respond well to jumping they need a fully charged
and healthy battery.

Also battery back up when changing battery's can blow the Instrument
cluster/obd fuse.

If you work on them it will deplete the battery .
If you run the purge procedure when changing the radiator
and replacing the fluid it will deplete the battery.

You need diagnostics to go further with this car.
Suggest bimmergeeks.net cable and downloads.


https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/at...9&d=1539905743

diagnostic manual ista/inpa
https://bimmerprofs.com/diagnostics-inpa-part-1/
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...xo19teM9vkTF-C
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...7x8H3pN8h1fMuF
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-P-actually-do

electical e90 pdf
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...,d.cGU&cad=rja
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...85464276,d.cGU
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...85464276,d.cGU

1) key is recognized by proximity. The key figure appears in the dash.
Usually if you have comfort access you only get a key signal
on the instrument cluster when the fob battery is low.
It should still start the car when in the slot though.

If you live in a place where there is a lot of corrosion due to high humidity or road salts the ground strap from the engine to chassis
can cause problems.

Very helpful information ! but I have some comments and questions after checking the info and links:


- I couldn't do the bleeding the procedure, it couldn't even get ignition.

- Can it be the ELV issue ?, even when the steering wheel icon (yellow nor red) is not appearing in the screen ?

- The battery is already full recovered and full charged. Shouldn't the system recognize it and allow the CAS to unlock the steering wheel and therefore allow the ignition ?

- Humidity ? quite high due a lot of rain, I found the drivers floor some wet there. Where should I check for humidity or corrosion damage that is affecting the ignition ?

- I cannot take tow the car due the locked steeering wheel , to get the the professional tester there. Should I proceed with the disassembly procedure of the steering column due the ELV ?

Thanks a lot !!
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      11-14-2018, 03:14 PM   #4
ctuna
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- Can it be the ELV issue ?, even when the steering wheel icon (yellow nor red) is not appearing in the screen ?
You may have a new situation so it may not actually be the ELV when mine
went bad and I had the yellow light I was able to wiggle the steering wheel
and get it to unlock while trying to start.

- The battery is already full recovered and full charged. Shouldn't the system recognize it and allow the CAS to unlock the steering wheel and therefore allow the ignition ?
Yes it should if everything is working.

- Humidity ? quite high due a lot of rain, I found the drivers floor some wet there. Where should I check for humidity or corrosion damage that is affecting the ignition ?
Could be .
The ground strap is on the US driver side near the starter goes from the
Engine to chassis.(use the links there is the tis and the shop manual in
the links)

- I cannot take tow the car due the locked steeering wheel , to get the the professional tester there. Should I proceed with the disassembly procedure of the steering column due the ELV ?

Can't you flat bed it.
All you need is a PC and the cable plus the software setup to have
all diagnostics available to a dealership for a e90 330 .
Ista D is BMW diagnostics .
Nothing got into the car an ate the wiring did it .
Its happened before.
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      11-14-2018, 03:28 PM   #5
Ruedaloca
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctuna View Post
- Can it be the ELV issue ?, even when the steering wheel icon (yellow nor red) is not appearing in the screen ?
You may have a new situation so it may not actually be the ELV when mine
went bad and I had the yellow light I was able to wiggle the steering wheel
and get it to unlock while trying to start.

- The battery is already full recovered and full charged. Shouldn't the system recognize it and allow the CAS to unlock the steering wheel and therefore allow the ignition ?
Yes it should if everything is working.

- Humidity ? quite high due a lot of rain, I found the drivers floor some wet there. Where should I check for humidity or corrosion damage that is affecting the ignition ?
Could be .
The ground strap is on the US driver side near the starter goes from the
Engine to chassis.(use the links there is the tis and the shop manual in
the links)

- I cannot take tow the car due the locked steeering wheel , to get the the professional tester there. Should I proceed with the disassembly procedure of the steering column due the ELV ?

Can't you flat bed it.
All you need is a PC and the cable plus the software setup to have
all diagnostics available to a dealership for a e90 330 .
Ista D is BMW diagnostics .
Nothing got into the car an ate the wiring did it .
Its happened before.
Nothing ate the wires, I may already identified that... so I think I'll proceed to buy the cable and setup the software. I think i'll enjoy that !

I'll take a look to the connectors for the humidity, specially in the steering wheel, and probably check about the CAS related issues.
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      11-14-2018, 03:50 PM   #6
ctuna
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If you have comfort access keys the steering unlocking is
usually the first thing that happens when you get in the car.

With the others you have to put it in the slot I think.

So this thing was running before you got it?
Or are you trying to get it going after just purchasing it?
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      11-14-2018, 05:52 PM   #7
Ruedaloca
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctuna View Post
If you have comfort access keys the steering unlocking is
usually the first thing that happens when you get in the car.

With the others you have to put it in the slot I think.

So this thing was running before you got it?
Or are you trying to get it going after just purchasing it?
It was working before , no problem related to it
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      11-16-2018, 07:57 PM   #8
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I just posted a similar issue as well tonight.....my 330i will not go into ignition mode. No dash lights or anything. It stared after it had been heavily raining in GA for 4 straight days.

I'm going to keep you posted after I get some time to check it out further tomorrow.
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      11-17-2018, 02:19 AM   #9
Ruedaloca
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I'll be checking tomorrow CAS connections because I don't believe it is ELV (no icon in display) and fuses again , probably I'll check DME box for water or fuses there . I'll be updating also
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      12-05-2018, 10:44 AM   #10
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My car still isn't not starting, it just improved a little by checking the DME box connections and fuses, now it is possible to get it into ignition, steering wheel unlocked, and able to crank ... but never get run.

I have check fuel pump, there is power there in the connections, and the output too going to the pump, runs with 10-12V when hit the start. I can hear it running also.

The starter is moving normally, but never gets the engine run.

Battery problems are discarded also, tested and recharged twice.

There is another point to check ??
I still cannot get codes, my cable has not arrived yet.
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      12-05-2018, 03:55 PM   #11
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I think I figured mine out. I have not even messed with the car for 3 weeks as I have a newborn and another car.

Went out and messed with it alittle today. Got the battery charged up, put it in and tried to start. Nothing.
I got as much of my hand behind the fuse box in the glove compartment as I could and jiggled the wires around. It got a connection and started right up!

So I believe my issue is the b+ cable that has the TSB on it. I will be ordering replacement cable tonight to install when it gets here and hopefully it will start after that.
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      12-05-2018, 04:53 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Titanium3Series View Post
I think I figured mine out. I have not even messed with the car for 3 weeks as I have a newborn and another car.

Went out and messed with it alittle today. Got the battery charged up, put it in and tried to start. Nothing.
I got as much of my hand behind the fuse box in the glove compartment as I could and jiggled the wires around. It got a connection and started right up!

So I believe my issue is the b+ cable that has the TSB on it. I will be ordering replacement cable tonight to install when it gets here and hopefully it will start after that.
Good for you ! already identified the source of problem... I'm still struggling and affraid I cannot make it works without the codes or managing the ECU.
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      12-16-2018, 08:05 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruedaloca View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Titanium3Series View Post
I think I figured mine out. I have not even messed with the car for 3 weeks as I have a newborn and another car.

Went out and messed with it alittle today. Got the battery charged up, put it in and tried to start. Nothing.
I got as much of my hand behind the fuse box in the glove compartment as I could and jiggled the wires around. It got a connection and started right up!

So I believe my issue is the b+ cable that has the TSB on it. I will be ordering replacement cable tonight to install when it gets here and hopefully it will start after that.
Good for you ! already identified the source of problem... I'm still struggling and affraid I cannot make it works without the codes or managing the ECU.
So it ended up not being the B+ cable. I went out for 2 days after it started the first time and shook it and it never started up again. So I actually ended up ruling the b+ cable out as it felt 100% secure and ended up making no difference when I moved it.

I got an idea to go to the back and disconnect the ibs sensor from the positive terminal plate(blue plug). Car started as soon as I removed it. I plugged it back in and car did nothing. I unplugged it again and the car started with no issues at all. So now....my problem is 100% the ibs sensor on the negotiable terminal. It is causing the vehicle to not even enter ignition mode.
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      12-16-2018, 10:15 PM   #14
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Ruedaloca in the other thread you mentioned that the coolant pump fuse had blown, which is what caused your car to not start.

You might want to replace that coolant pump pretty soon... they can fail and cause an overheat almost immediately.
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      12-16-2018, 10:24 PM   #15
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Vlord , thank you for your comment, but I already fixed the coolant system issue...and after I could recover back the ignition, then I have already made the bleeding procedure.

Now my problem is the starting , just cranking strong when the battery is fully charged .
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      12-18-2018, 07:38 PM   #16
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What do you have for diagnosis gear? Inpa maybe? It could be a module isn't registering properly. Could be a crack angle sensor or cam sensor, could be plugs, coils, fuses...

Actually fuses would be my first guess, though I don't know which to check... I guess all of the ones for the DME.
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